At the geographical heart of Australia, the best way to appreciate Alice is from Anzac Hill around sunset. Smack in the centre of town, this little hill supplies 360-degree views of the Alice grid and, to the south, the unfolding spectacle of the ancient McDonnell Ranges as the sun paints shifting hues of orange and crimson across them. Surrounded by desert, the inexorable flow of somewhat dirtied blow-ins decked out in Akubras with corks, thick socks and cargo pants provides unparalleled people-watching opportunities, while the rich mix of its 28,000 residents promises depth and grit. Aboriginal communities, desert-hardened white Australians,...