Tea For Two: Sydney High Teas

AT welcomes back the traditional British tea sipping ceremony of the 1700s and rates Sydney’s finest High Teas, with surprising results. Kim Richards reports. 

The lofty trend of drinking Darjeeling tea served in shimmering silver teapots is the latest drawcard for those who favour the finer side of life. Sydneysiders are familiarising themselves with what they believe is a rather regal treat.

Several versions of teas are on offer around the city, however the term “high tea” is often a misnomer – traditionally a small meal, known as high tea or meat tea, was served to ladies of leisure, keeping them going until dinner. The focus was indulging in local gossip and passing light comment on the salmon and shrimp pâté sandwiches with the crusts cut off.

Tearooms and fine hotels today serve a far more flowery tea, with emphasis on presentation and fine crockery. Antique three-tier stands are laced with pastries, chocolate dipped strawberries, lemon tarts and freshly baked scones. Individual hosts have transformed the meal-like high tea into what should really be referred to as a delectable afternoon tea.

OBSERVE
Do you know the correct placement of the teapot on the table? If you’re the hostess or tea pourer, the spout of the pot faces you. Now, if you fancy reliving the correct etiquette, silver service and elegance at its best, then the Globe Bar at the Observatory Hotel is the tea for you. With a grand piano tucked in the corner, plush interiors, jazzy tunes and intimate spacing, the tea served here is very impressive. Pink Moet Chandon is an ideal start to indulgent teas; the chilled champers is a perfect compliment to the pungent tastes of the quiche Lorraine and the chic service offered at the Globe.

Indulge, enjoy and remember that crustless cucumber sandwiches are an indication of the real deal.

PLAYING HOUSE
The view that speaks for itself is the cherry on top of the Guillaume at Bennelong’s high tea within the Sydney Opera House. However, other than observing the surrounds and listening to four powerful arias, there’s not much more on offer. The cost is wildly expensive: expect to pay $125 per head. When you can pay £72 a couple at the standard-setting Ritz in London, you know the world is out of joint. And when cucumber sandwiches aren’t on the menu and your rare roast beef lies beside a sugary passionfruit jelly, it’s hard not to feel as though you’ve been taken for a ride. Guillaume at Bennelong may deserve its reputation as one of the city’s best restaurants, but their high tea doesn’t follow suit.

MAKE ROOM
Darlinghurst’s Victoria Room is nothing other than stunning. The setting is calming, the lighting dim and on a relaxed day I can think of few things more appealing than immersing myself in the light chatter and sounds of Nat King Cole buzzing around this popular weekend teahouse. The eclectic furnishings aptly reflect the Victorian era. The chairs have been handpicked and ooze character, with individual designs. Each table has its own little lampshade, adding ambience to your eating space. The thinly sliced sandwiches are outstandingly soft, your fingerprints make an imprint in the bread and the scones are served piping hot. Freshness seems to be of high importance here. We thank the chef.

CIRCULAR MOTIONS
The Stamford in Circular Quay has an old-school feel to it that’s appealing. Its regal room with large leather chairs, swing tunes and sharp service is something to take your time over and enjoy. However, I was utterly disappointed – my thing at high teas is the scones. I love them. On this occasion I couldn’t even break mine in half, let alone pick a stale crumb from its surface. It looked lavish but that’s about all. I’d say go on a Monday; you can probably comfortably assume the week’s batch of scones has just been baked. The free glass of champagne is always a winner. Delicious, too. Forget the Stamford in 30-degree temperatures. Save this one for winter.

GUNNING FOR ATTENTION
Mosman is home to the Gunners’ Barracks, where a lot of wealthy Sydneysiders strain their tea. Set on a beautiful property overlooking Sydney Harbour with Shark Island in the foreground, this is a local’s spot. Few tourists will make tracks here, but if you do, take a ferry to Taronga Zoo and catch a taxi to the Gunners’ Barracks. The food, setting and black jasmine tea will be worth the trek. The selection of teas on offer is wide, bookings are essential, and make sure you reserve a table outside, with the city in the distant background and yachts bobbing past below. The china crockery and silver service makes the experience proper, but not pompous.

SOFTLY SOFTLY
Sofitel Wentworth has carved out its own version of tea, made with such European style and precision it feels as though each morsel has been specifically made for you. The chef puts presentation above all else – you’re almost too scared to take a nibble from anything laid before you. The strawberries topped with cream and dipped in a cone of chocolate melt pretty quickly, but the flavour lingers longer as you sneakily lick your fingers. This afternoon tea is very French, and pastries from trendy Parisian food label Le Nôtre are handcrafted for each patron. Not a massive crowd drawer, it’s for the lover of finer French treats. I prefer it this way.

BRING YOUR MANNERS
The good old Queen Victoria Building’s tearoom is for frenetic shoppers who just need a break. You’ll feel lost in this glorious room with its high ceilings and shimmering chandeliers – this big boutique tea house, colonial and classic, is adorned with lush furniture. You tend to want to behave, sit upright and have grown-up conversations, wear your high heels and act accordingly. The food is more-ish, well presented and fresh. There’s a wide variety of sweet and savoury and if you’re clever you’ll pinch the second spinach parcel from your friend’s food platter when she runs off to the ladies cloakroom. This delicate afternoon of tea sipping is something you shouldn’t skip if you’re hovering around George Street in the late afternoon. The ultimate place for a girls gathering, you don’t see too many male patrons walk through these doors. But they don’t know what they’re missing.

TEA TO THE MAX
Chocolate, brownies, more chocolate and juicy strawberries is the Max Brenner version of high tea. Sweeter than you can probably cope with but family friendly and a great conversation starter. The fondue is hard to beat, with dried fruit and banana bread to dunk into a melting pot of warm chocolate. Each Max Brenner chocolate house has an ambience all its own, which is great – but it will never quite match the standalone outfits. So don’t be disappointed if the Victoria Room experience isn’t captured. It never could be.
Indulge, enjoy and remember that crustless cucumber sandwiches are an indication of the real deal. There are of course other hotels and tearooms around Sydney. This is merely the finer few – we believe we’ve tasted and tested the best.

HIGH TEAS TESTED
Wentworth Sofitel // www.sofitelsydney.com.au  
Victoria Room // www.thevictoriaroom.com  
Gunners’ Barracks & QVB // www.thetearoom.com.au  
Guillaume at Sydney Opera House // www.sydneyoperahouse.com
Max Brenner // www.maxbrenner.com.au  
The Stamford // www.stamford.com.au  
The Observatory // www.observatoryhotel.com