A thriving hub of native wildlife, pristine beaches and rich local produce, Phillip Island has remained relatively removed from the mainland, in both a geographical and figurative sense, writes Alissa Jenkins
This should definitely top the must-do list, watching on at sunset as rafts of little (fairy) penguins return from a day at sea fishing, waddling ashore and back to their burrows. Phillip Island Nature Parks offer a range of tours that vary in intimacy and cost, but I highly recommend the Ultimate Tour (from $78.40 per adult). It allows a group of less than 10 people to sit on the beach, equipped with specialty torches and infrared goggles, and watch on as these clumsy but cute critters waddle past, calling out to their waiting families. Despite full bellies and tiny legs, they somehow manage to climb sand dunes and walk up to 2km each night. During the tour’s walk back to the centre, you’ll also see loads of eager chicks and night-time lovers, which is just as exciting as the beachfront viewing.
03 5951 2800. penguins.org.au
Cruise to Seal Rocks:
Wildlife Coast Cruises offer a two-hour tour to one of Australia’s largest wild fur seal colonies at the aptly named Seal Rocks. The boat drifts within metres of the rock formation, where there can be hundreds, if not thousands of seals, from beastly bulls to playful pups. As naturally inquisitive creatures, many will jump into the water and right up to the vessel, while others will happily continue sunbaking.
From $70 for adults, $48 for children. 1300 763 739. wildlifecoastcruises.com.au
Visit Nobbies Centre: With panoramic views overlooking The Nobbies, this free-to-enter centre showcases the local marine life. There are many interactive displays, including a Big Brother-like camera that was installed at Seal Rocks, which visitors can navigate from the centre to take photos. The centre is also a handy stop-off for families, offering a café, bathrooms and a children’s play area. 03 5951 2852.
Hot tip: When leaving, take a different route home and drive along an unsealed road that follows the coastline to Phelans Bluff and loops back to the main road. The turn off is within the centre’s carpark but there’s limited signage so it can be easily missed. Drive slowly, take in the sights, and keep an eye out for the blowhole and local wildlife, especially wallabies and Cape Barren geese.
Koala Conservation Centre:
Stroll along the treetop boardwalks and see up to 30 resident koalas as they doze amongst the gums. The boardwalks include strategically positioned information signs, pointing to the koalas’ favourite branches for easy spotting. Inside the centre are more displays on these native marsupials, with information about their evolution, breeding habits and conservation efforts.
Entry for adults is priced at $10.80, children $5.40. 03 5951 2800. penguins.org.au
Feed pelicans and stingrays:
Everyday at noon, the mainland side of Phillip Island Bridge becomes a feeding frenzy for pelicans and stingrays at the water’s edge. Visitors can throw fish scraps to stingrays, even pat them, or watch on as nearby pelicans are fed and informative talks are given. Best of all, it’s free.
Sandwiched between paddocks of grazing cattle and the calm blue Bass Strait, this buzzing (sometimes screeching) motor circuit is a stark contrast from the serene surroundings. There visitors can follow in the footsteps of racing superstars with a Guided Circuit Tour, which includes access to restricted areas such as the pit roof complex and the winner’s podium. Adrenalin junkies can strap in for three high-speed Hot Laps around the circuit in a race car, at the hands of an experienced driver. Otherwise, next door are the Champ Go Karts, which run on a 760-metre scale replica of the real circuit. There are tandem karts available for youngsters, and each driver is given a personalised lap-time printout at the end.
03 5952 2710. phillipislandcircuit.com.au
SWIM, SURF OR SNORKEL
With over 100km of coastline defining PI, there is no shortage of swimming holes. It can range from pounding surf at hotspots like Surf Beach and Flynns Reef, to sheltered bays suitable for young families at Smiths Beach or Cowes Main Beach on the north side. Depending on weather conditions, snorkelling is also available. The locals recommend Red Rocks Point and Churchill Island. However Woolamai Beach is a must as a scenic, surfable and patrolled area, not far from The Pinnacles, a stunning rock formation on the southeast tip of the island. Visitors can walk up the beach to Magic Lands before taking an inland walking track that continues up to the highest point on the island, overlooking the formation.
VISIT CHURCHILL ISLAND HERITAGE FARM
An off-shoot of PI, Churchill Island is where the first farm in Victoria was established. Today it comprises native wetlands and numerous walks, but the main attraction is Churchill Island Heritage Farm. Surrounded by heritage gardens and a working farm, the property also includes an historic homestead with authentic room displays, a licensed café overlooking the bay and gift shop. Daily displays are held throughout the property including sheep shearing and cow milking, plus an animal nursery. Great for little ones!
Get your bearings from above in a scenic flight around the island with Phillip Island Helicopters. There are seven routes to choose from (priced from $70 per person), taking in major local attractions like The Pinnacles, Penguin Parade, Grand Prix Circuit and The Nobbies. There are other heli-adventures available, such as packaged deals to Bass Valley Estate Wines, French Island and skydiving.
1340 RMB Phillip Island Tourist Rd, Newhaven. 03 5956 7316. phillipislandhelicopters.com.au
An unexpected find is the National Vietnam Veterans’ War Museum, dedicated to preserving and exhibiting memorabilia from the war. With over 5000 artefacts, photographs and displays, some aspects of the museum are quite confronting. Outside are the biggest items, including a Centurion tank and a Wessex helicopter. It will cost you a donation to get in to the museum, but it’s well worth a look!
5 Churchill Rd South, Newhaven. 03 5956 6400. vietnamveteransmuseum.street-directory.com.au
PI is largely made up of farmland, so there is plenty of local produce such as beef, lamb and fresh seafood. Several local operators stock this local produce, but one of the best places is Spice Island. Located on the mainland side of the bridge, Spice Island is both a café and cooking school, offering local products where possible including ‘enviromeat’ beef from Bimbadeen Farm, Koo Wee Rup asparagus, Capra Organic Goats Cheese, Pakenham eggs, Churchill Island lamb – all located on or near the island. They even try to source local herbs and spices, including salt that is smoked in the nearby Bass Hill using red wine barrels – delicious! It’s open weekends in winter and seven days in summer, while classes run on a seasonal schedule so check out the website for details.
117 Marine Parade, San Remo; (03) 5956 7557. spiceisland.com.au
17 The Esplanade. 03 5952 6226. harrysrestaurant.com.au
03 5952 2560. madcowescafe.com.au.
Situated on the east coast in the quiet village of Rhyll is The Foreshore Bar & Restaurant. Overlooking the bay, the restaurant has a rustic but warm feel, with good service, a decent menu, and reasonable prices. Again there are plenty of seafood options and gourmet favourites – I wasn’t disappointed with the kangaroo fillet with mushroom mousse ($33.50).
11 Beach Road Rhyll. 03 5956 9520. theforeshore.com.au
Then for something sweet, Pannys Amazing World of Chocolate is hard to beat. Amongst the truffles and clusters is Panny’s Amazing World of Chocolate exhibition, featuring interactive displays and machines; one of which allows visitors to make their own chocolate bar. There are also chocolaty reproductions of masterpieces such as Michaelangelo’s David statue. Oh, and the chocky is pretty amazing too!
930 Phillip Island Rd, Newhaven. 03 5956 6600. phillipislandchocolatefactory.com.au
WHERE TO DRINK
The island’s mild weather and rich volcanic soil allows for some delicious cool climate wines. Among the makers is Phillip Island Winery near the Grand Prix Circuit. Producing a range of whites and reds, their 2008 Estate Chardonnay ($32 per bottle) is especially impressive, awarded 94/100 by wine guru James Halliday. The cellar door is a cute cottage-style building, offering wine tastings, a cosy log fire, local Gippsland cheeses and smoked trout and homemade dips.
414 Berrys Beach Rd, Ventnor. 03 5956 8465. phillipislandwines.com.au
Otherwise, situated near Rhyll is the Purple Hen winery. Across five hectares of vineyards, the winery largely produces pinot noir and chardonnay – the pinot is especially good! The cellar door is open Monday to Friday, offering wine tastings, cheese platters and great views.
96 McFees Rd, Rhyll. 03 5956 9244. purplehenwines.com.au
But for those who favour beer for a beverage, there’s the Rusty Water Brewery. With five of their own handcrafted brews on tap, they also offer other boutique beers such as Prickly Moses and Matso’s. The restaurant menu features plenty of hearty dishes to taste test too. 1821 Phillip Island Rd, Cowes. 03 5952 1666. rustywaterbrewery.com.au
WHERE TO STAY
There are many accommodation options available throughout the island, ranging from boutique B&Bs to budget caravan parks. A particularly good starting point is the new The Island Accommodation – part of the Big Wave Complex which also encompasses a café and surf shop. The accommodation itself is made up of studio suites, family rooms and multi-share rooms, catering for couples, families and backpackers travelling on a budget. Clean and welcoming, facilities include well-equipped kitchens for self-catering and the Big Wave Café next door for a quick bite. The hosts are especially helpful, giving all guests an easy-to-follow illustrated map and a run down on all the must-see-and-dos.
Prices from $30 per person, per night.
10-12 Phillip Island Tourist Rd, Newhaven. 03 5956 6123.theislandaccommodation.com.au
For something a bit more upmarket, Silverwater Resort is ahhh-mazing. Located on the highway right before the Phillip Island Bridge, Silverwater Resort offers one to three bedroom apartments, all luxurious, spacious and fully self-contained. Expect private balconies, air conditioning, flat-screen TVs, digital movies on demand, internet, great views and luxe furnishings. The resort also boasts heated pools, spa and sauna, tennis, basketball, volleyball and bocce courts, children’s play areas, a lounge bar and the Watermark Restaurant. Prices from $165 per night.
Phillip Island Tourist Rd. 03 5671 9399. silverwaterresort.com.au
FIVE REASONS TO VISIT
AUSTRALIAN MOTORCYCLE GRAND PRIX
Any motorsports fan should make the pilgrimage to PI atleast once for this annual event, championing the best motorcyclists in the world. As well as getting to see bigwigs like Stoner, Rossi and Lorenzo in action, the ocean backdrop isn’t bad either!
RACV GREAT VICTORIAN BIKE RIDE
November 24 – December 2
Join 4000 others expected to take part in this 590km-cycling holiday through Gippsland. Taking in other destinations along the Grand Ridge Road, the ride finishes in Phillip Island.
PHLLIP ISLAND JAZZ FESTIVAL
Head to the Ramada Resort Phillip Island in Cowes for a weekend of jazz music and some local gourmet delights. Acts include Andrew Nolte And His Orchestra, Shirazz and Cannonball.
PYRAMID ROCK FESTIVAL
December 29 – January 1
Ring in the New Year at this annual celebration of hot new music with performances by artists from around Australia and abroad. At the time of publication, the 2012/13 line-up was not confirmed, but visit the website for more information.
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Phillip Island, VIC
Watching the parade of the penguins on Phillip Island is No. 37 on Australian Traveller's list of 100 Things To Do In Australia Before You Die.
Where // VIC, Australia
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This article appeared in Issue 46 of Australian Traveller.
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