Victoria’s capital was well planned in a grid pattern at the head of Port Phillip Bay on the northern banks of the so-called upside-down-river Yarra. From humble beginnings in 1835, Melbourne grew exponentially with the discovery of gold and the subsequent “Rush of the 1850s”. Many significant buildings remain from the period, but the CBD was sensibly laid out with broad streets that boast one of the world’s most extensive tram systems. While its suburbia has swollen to more than 3.5 million souls, the city itself now benefits from a residential resurgence with – not surprisingly – apartment living finding favour. Initially the CBD grid hosted this brave new trend, but many apartment towers have joined office blocks in their shadowy domination of the newish precincts, Southbank and Docklands. These, in turn, have become a natural extension of Melbourne’s thriving shopping, business and entertainment venues. Fortunately, the city’s broad green swathes of parks and gardens still provide respite for visitors, and leafy streetscapes offer an organic divide between trams and office towers.

TRANSPORT
Melbourne Tullamarine Airport has recently-upgraded domestic and international terminals. Domestic airlines include main players Virgin Blue, Jetstar, Qantas (Cityflyer), and Tiger, variously serving all Australian capitals and numerous tourist hubs. Smaller airlines fly to regional centres such as Mildura, Portland, Albury-Wodonga and some interstate destinations. The international terminal, a major hub second only to Sydney, is visited by all major airlines. Taxis to the city (approx $40-$50) leave all terminals, but occasionally there’s a 40min-plus wait during peak hours. Skybus (03 9600 1711, $16 single) serves the CBD and hotels. Many limousine services are available for only a few dollars more than a taxi (MSM Limousines, 0403 157 721). All the main car rental companies are represented, including camper van hire. Within the CBD, taxis are readily available (though there’s often a wait during peak hours), but trams are convenient as long as you have a route map; in 2010 the new Myki public transport card will launch (www.myki.com.au). Daily city and inner suburb cards cost around $7.