So Near, And Yet So Far

Woolloomooloo. Sydney’s harbour side suburb with way too many Os and Ls. What better place to perch a five-star hotel with Blue for a name?

By Rhonda Talbot

Close enough to the bright lights to sense that pulse, but far enough removed that a turn of the head or a twitch of the curtains is all you need to make good your escape. On beautiful Sydney Harbour where the sparkling water is the first view in the morning and the last at night, the Opera House is a stone’s throw, as is the shopping district for bustle, and the parks for mooching around doing as little as you like. The W, situated at the proximal end of the famous Finger Wharf in Woolloomooloo, the distal three quarters of which is dedicated to the apartments of the rich and famous, is one of the Starwood chain of five-star hotels.

In a previous life the Wharf served as a passenger and freight terminal in Australian wool’s heyday and oozes history and nostalgia. Our troops left for Gallipoli from this very place. Its first stone was laid in 1910 and almost met with destruction in the 1980s. Luckily, relief arrived in the form of a protection order, and redevelopment commenced in 1993. The structure has been sensitively restored, with many of the original features retained including the enormous timbers and ramps. The rooms are placed around the periphery of the building, leaving a vast, empty central space, serene and nostalgic.

The hotel is small, but not quite what you’d call boutique, at 100 rooms divided into nine categories. The cavernous interior of the building lends a feeling of remoteness and stillness; I can’t remember a large hotel that felt so private. I love that feeling – peace.

Loft rooms account for one third of the accommodation. These have a living area downstairs, with bedroom and bathroom on the mezzanine level. Space upstairs is at a premium. The bathroom is en suite, shower over bath. There’s only a small amount of storage upstairs and no room for luggage other than a “carry-on”; we had to stow our gear in the large downstairs cupboard. For lengthy stays, running up and down the stairs in your underwear could become tedious.

I found the Loft room a delight - romantic and cosy - and the bathroom adequate. There’s a large skylight, so from the bed at night you can see the stars above and, in privacy, the Harbour through the large downstairs window. There are significantly larger Ultra Loft rooms available.

It’s great to have a separate area to entertain - for business or pleasure - or to relax without getting cheese and biscuit crumbs on the bed. Sitting downstairs looking out at the water and over to Garden Island, Potts Point and iconic Harry’s Café de Wheels is interesting and pleasant. The view from the other side of the building is more impressive, across the Marina to Mrs Macquarie’s Chair and the city skyline. But if you want that view, you’re certainly going to pay more for it.

Disabled access is available to the single-level rooms, although with some irregular surfaces and odd steps around, it can’t be the easiest hotel to negotiate in a wheelchair.

The staff is young and hip, happy and obliging without being annoying, and the tone is quiet. The décor is so very trendy, with modern furnishings juxtaposed with many ’20s and ’30s Dupain-esque photos of Sydney and Sydneysiders, old town meets new.

The beds are comfortable with thick feather duvets and quality linen. The Aveda toiletries are of better quality than most, if a little antiseptic.

Breakfast is either room service - the menu is small but sufficient, the food is well presented and of good quality - or a la carte in the W Café in the heart of the hotel. There’s also a Spa Chakra on the Wharf and in-room massages are available.

The Finger Wharf boasts six of Sydney’s better-known restaurants, such as Otto and Manta, so there’s no shortage of places to dine. Nearby are first-rate pubs with curbside tables and, of course, Harry’s Café for the gourmand. W has a picnic basket service for those who wish to walk in the Royal Botanic Gardens and the Domain, both of which are close by, as is the NSW Art Gallery and the Boy Charlton Olympic pool. Or you can swim in the heated indoor pool the hotel shares with the apartment owners. It’s one of the better hotel pools I’ve seen and has a morning sun deck and a small, well-equipped gym alongside. Although it’s a bit disconcerting prancing right through the public area in your robe with your blow-up sea horse.

In the main concourse is the Water Bar, a popular Sydney nightspot. The noise was noticeable on Saturday night; next time I’ll request a room away from the central area. But we will stay at the W again.