Surfing has a unique and potent appeal, derived possibly from the dramatic combination of the power of the water, the speed associated with the sport, and the adrenalin rush – all set against a turbulent environment of greens, blues and whites; graceful one moment and violent the next.
If while growing up you missed out on learning to surf, or lived away from the beach (or away from Australia), and have sat on many a stretch of sand watching with envy as the surfers do their thing, then you’ll be delighted at the newest trend in the sport – every age is welcome. Surf schools are doing a roaring trade around Australia, and they’re waiting for your call.
You may not master it. You may never experience the ultimate barrel or do a cutback, and you may have no wish whatsoever to go big-wave surfing, but you’ll have tried to come to grips with a great Australian tradition. And you’ll be guaranteed to have had a great deal of fun trying.
Did you know?
Originally developed by Hawaiian islanders before the 15th Century, “he’e nalu” (wave-sliding) spread to the USA and Australia in the early 20th Century. In the late 1950s and ’60s the sport took off when cheaper, more manoeuvrable, lighter boards were made from fibreglass and foam.
Website of Surfing Australia with lots of information, including where to find your nearest surf school, surf reports and web cams
** This is our original 100 Things to Do Before You Die. First published in 1996. There is an updated 100 Things To Do In Australia Before you die, published in 2011.