With its world-class whale watching, cosy cellar doors, and Slow Food-focused restaurants, the Shoalhaven on the NSW South Coast offers a tantalising winter escape, two hours’ drive from Sydney and Canberra.
Whale watching and swimming
The Shoalhaven is located at the halfway point of the annual East Coast whale migration, affectionately known as The Humpback Highway between May and November. Its unique coastline combining Jervis Bay’s translucent, still waters with dramatic headlands jutting into the deep ocean delivers a wonderful diversity of whale-watching opportunities.
Jervis Bay provides a safe stop for mother and calf humpbacks. (Image: Maree Clout)
Jervis Bay Marine Park, with 16 white-sand beaches, is the best spot in NSW for whale watching in calm waters. It becomes a crèche where mothers play with their babies on the return leg of the migration, from September to October.
The warm waters of the East Coast mix with the cooler waters of the Bass Strait in Jervis Bay creating a haven for sea life, all visible on a whale watching cruise.
This is where the cool waters from Bass Strait mix with the warm waters of the East Ocean Current so you’ll also see resident dolphins, the northernmost colony of Australian fur seals, little penguins, white-bellied sea eagles and albatross.
Jervis Bay is the only place in Australia where two operators offer snorkelling and diving experiences with whales.
A bucket-list experience for the adventurous is to swim and snorkel with whales with Dive Jervis Bay and Woebegone Freedive , which operate under strict guidelines with the whales’ best interests at heart. Jervis Bay Wild and Dolphin Watch offer eco-cruises during the entire migration from May to November.
With whales congregating in such large numbers and using Jervis Bay as a pit stop, there are many vantage points on land from which you can easily whales. (Image: Jordan Robins)
There are also many viewpoints along the Shoalhaven coastline that offer premium whale-watching experiences which you could combine with your morning walk. Prime spots include Penguin Head Lookout in Culburra Beach, Point Perpendicular Lighthouse in Currarong, Cape St George Lighthouse in Booderee National Park and Warden Head Lighthouse in Ulladulla.
Wineries and more
With its mild maritime climate, the Shoalhaven Wine Coast is one of Australia’s key emerging wine regions growing a diverse array of varietals including chambourcin, merlot and shiraz, semillon, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. Here, the white wines are fruit-driven and well-balanced while the medium-bodied reds have fine tannins and elegant fruit characters.
Two Figs winery on the Shoalhaven River exemplifies the variety on show on the Shoalhaven Wine coast: chambourcin, moscato, verdehlo and white port are available for tasting along with more mainstream trophy-winning wines like shiraz, pinot grigio, shiraz and cabernet sauvignon.
Most of the nine cellar doors are family owned, so when you visit you’re likely to meet the producers who might open some brand-new releases.
Award winning and tourism hall of famer Cupitt’s is a winery, restaurant, accommodation and a lot more.
NSW Tourism Hall of Fame star, Cupitt’s Estate, offers the complete gourmet experience, with award-winning wines, craft beers, artisanal French-style cheeses, a farm-to-table restaurant, live music on Sundays and new luxury pod accommodation in the Ulladulla hinterland. Taste the multi-award winning Wollstonecraft Semillon from the many wines at Coolangatta Estate, the first European settlement on the NSW South Coast. You can also dine on local produce in the Wine Garden and stay overnight in one of the convict-built cottages.
High tea and rosé in the giant tea cup at Cambewarra Estate.
Try chambourcin on a wine and cheese picnic at the off-grid Lyrebird Ridge Organic Winery or admire views of the Shoalhaven River while sampling shiraz at Two Figs Winery. Try the chardonnay/arneis blend at Mountain Ridge Wines and dine at its paddock-to-plate restaurant. In the foothills of the Kangaroo Valley, savour high tea and rosé on the lawn or in the giant tea cup at Cambewarra Estate and sample the wines, jams and nuts at Yarrawa Estate.
Popular with families are Silos Estate, close to Berry, with its engaging cellar door experience, casual restaurant and alpaca farm, and dog-friendly Bawley Vale Estate (try the sparkling rose), with its farmyard animals.
Coolongatta Estate has been awarded five ‘red’ stars (the highest possible rating) by legendary wine critic James Halliday.
Don’t stop there. Sample also the gin, vodka and whisky from Tara Distillery, Shoalhaven’s trailblazing craft distillery, and taste beers from new craft breweries Flamin Galah Brewing Co, Husky Brewing and South Yeast Brewing and old favourites such as Dangerous Ales at the Milton Hotel, Jervis Bay Brewing Co and Cupitt’s Estate Brewery.
Unique Places to Eat:
The Shoalhaven is home to one of Australia’s largest Slow Food convivium, part of the international association that promotes local food communities. Local Slow Food founder, Rosie Cupitt ensures Cupitt’s Estate sources locally, including from its extensive kitchen garden.
Cupitt’s Restaurant sits among the verdant hills of Ulladulla and serves up the produce from its extensive kitchen garden. A local favourite, the restaurant has led the local Slow Food movement.
Here are some more Slow Food gems.
In the Kangaroo Valley, savour freshly baked sourdough, kombucha and creative dishes at The General Café and homemade deli items, pop-up dinners and cooking classes at Hampden Deli.
In Kangaroo Valley you can drop in for supplies, a meal or a class at the Hampden Deli, Dining & School.
Berry offers some terrific local eateries, such as South on Albany and The Garden Berry, while Far Meadow Table offers engaging cooking workshops that showcase local produce.
Wholefoods picked from the on site garden are on the plate at Milk Haus outside Milton.
In Milton, Alex Delly prepares sublime locally sourced dishes at his tiny Small Town Food and Wine, the Milk Haus is a friendly wholefoods café featuring just-picked produce from its kitchen garden and Duke & Co Cafe has a strong buy-local policy.
“We start the day grinding, baking and fermenting….” The Garden Cafe in Kangaroo Valley serves up home made sourdough and other fermented goodies like sauerkraut and kombucha, all of which can also be bought for the home pantry.
In nearby Mollymook, gourmet trailblazer Rick Stein at Bannister’s is still going strong while, nearby, Matt Upson channels a pan-Asian street food vibe at Gwylo.
Drop in on Saltwood Cafe in Kioloa / Bawley Point.
Treehouse Cafe in Ulladulla and Saltwood Cafe and Lifestyle Kioloa are two more cafes that source locally and, if oysters are your thing, be sure and visit Jim Wild’s Oysters at Greenwell Point.
And whilst it doesnt have the official ‘snail of approval’ at Bangalay Dining in Shoalhaven heads, chef Simon Evans offers inspired creations on a menu led with locally foraged native ingredients.
Unique Places to Stay:
Cupitt’s Estate, outside Ulladulla, has recently launched its sleek offering of accommodation pods with spacious living rooms, kitchenettes, supremely comfy beds, designer bathrooms and decks.
The infinity edge pool at Bannisters by the Sea, the original Bannisters property in Mollymook.
The Jackson Ranch is Bannisters’ newest sister property with five cabins, a newly renovated event space and saloon bar tucked into 14 hectares of bushland at Bawley Point.
Bannisters Pavilion Hotel is a short walk to Mollymook Beach, with excellent sunset views from the rooftop bar and pool.
Bannisters by the Sea and Bannisters Pavilion in Mollymook offer serene rooms and suites in a soothing coastal palette.
The luxury Bangalay Villas are set amongst the forest behind Seven Mile Beach.
Set amongst the Bangalay Sand Forest behind Seven Mile Beach in Shoalhaven Heads, Bangalay Villas has 16 private villas with fireplaces and north-facing decks with garden or golf course views.
Set in the bush of Jervis Bay, Paperbark was Australia’s first glamping retreat. It combines great Aussie South Coast nature, local food and luxury safari tent style accommodation.
Australia’s first glamping retreat, Paperbark Camp is a peaceful bush retreat with premium tented accommodation and an airy treetop restaurant in Jervis Bay. Five of the original tents have now converted to Deluxe Plus safari tents meaning all 13 tents at the camp boast tubs with bush views and indulgent day beds.
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