Where is it? Between Kakadu National Park and the Gulf of Carpentaria, Arnhem Land begins 300km east of Darwin, NT.

Its population is almost entirely Indigenous. It offers over 90,000km2 of astonishing untouched wilderness. You can only drive into the region by 4WD, and even then only between April and September, well out of wet season.

Arnhem Land’s drives are challenging, its campsites are remote (you’ll often have them to yourself) and anglers here won’t believe the size of the fish. With barramundi over a metre long, there’s no need to exaggerate.

“There is no other place on earth where you could possibly feel as much like you’ve stepped out of a time machine into the dawning of life on this planet.” Elisabeth Knowles

Art lovers will be pleased they’ve stumbled across the place with the oldest rock art in the world. Visit Injalak Hill, Canon Hill and Ubirr Rock to see some of the best examples. Just south-east of the mining town of Nhulunby, you’ll find the Yirrkala community, who are known for their bark painting. This is also where you can best invest in a didgeridoo (properly known as a yidaki), as this is where they originated and they are still crafted and painted according to traditional techniques.

AT’s managing editor, Quentin Long, reckons Arnhem Land is life-changing, and we know you’ll agree. But please note: you need a permit to visit, so you have to plan ahead.

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