Jessi Singh’s return to Melbourne breaks all the rules, as the noted chef adds Daughter In Law to his culinary dynasty.
Details
Who: Daughter In Law
Where: 37/41 Little Bourke Street, Melbourne, VIC
Price range: $$
Cuisine: Untraditional Australian-Indian cuisine
First impressions
At first glance, Daughter In Law’s self-professed good times appears to be spilling out onto the street. Bathing the pavement in a pink-purple neon glow, the Melbourne newcomer is the latest restaurant from celebrated Australian-Indian chef Jessi Singh. The creator of Babu Ji and Horn Please has spent recent years introducing his signature style of modern Indian dining to New York, but now he’s back. I step into the packed-out venue on a Saturday evening with an empty stomach in anticipation of a colourful feast.
Pastel pink lines the couches.
It’s impossible to discuss Singh’s homecoming venture without addressing the decor. Daughter In Law’s aesthetic sits squarely between the kitsch cool of Melbourne’s trendiest street-food restaurants – think neon signs and subway tiling – and the decadent precision of a Wes Anderson film – think The Grand Budapest Hotel. Pastel-pink walls are decorated with golden fittings, water is served in ornate enamelled cups, and an opulent bar is flanked by deep-blue velvet seating. Down-to-earth staff and a retro soundtrack make me feel as welcome in the luxe dining parlour as I would in my own home.
The food
I immediately regret dining with only one companion, as it’s clear we won’t even make a dent in the menu. Boasting Singh’s famed ‘unauthentic Indian’ cuisine, it is divided into street snacks, pot-stewed curries, tandoori dishes and a selection of naan pizzas that come oozing with everything from fior di latte to masala spices, and there’s nothing that I don’t want to try.
Tandoori chicken that will melt in your mouth.
We settle on a handful of smaller plates, grilled prawns with pineapple and jalapeño dressing, and the house-recommended butter chicken, concluding that we’ll forgo the naan pizza for another occasion. By far the most exciting dish, the gol gappa are a delight. Literally ‘balls of happiness’, these translucent, spherical semolina crisps contain an aromatic filling of tamarind, mint and yoghurt, and pop in my mouth. The batata vada are equally mouthwatering. Each the size of a cricket ball, these mustard and curry-leaf potato croquettes are fragrant, filling and come with a medley of dips and dressings that I can’t resist.
The little balls of happiness.
The drinks
While Daughter In Law leans into beautifully prepared dishes, I’m relieved to discover that Singh’s idiosyncratic cuisine hasn’t fallen into the culinary trap of challenge for challenge’s sake. Rich recipes and familiar flavours eclipse the theatre of it all. Our crowd-pleasing butter curry and skewered prawns are bolstered by fresh ingredients, most evident in the sweetness of the seafood.
For those looking for something to sip, the drinks menu muddles identifiable ingredients with Indian inspiration. An Attack Like A Tiger – a stand-out combination of bourbon, turmeric, fresh ginger, lemon and honey – warms me from the inside, making me wish I had discovered it earlier during this flu-ridden winter. The rose and mango lassi should come with a word of warning: not for the faint-hearted; this is a meal in itself.
An inventive bar.
As the night builds, so does the volume inside the vibrant laneway venue. On exit, we pass one table as it erupts in song, spurred on by boozy lassi drinks. Our waiter hands me the last of our butter chicken to go and, though I’m fit to burst, I’m already looking forward to devouring leftovers. Unauthentic, unapologetic and delicious, this spirited sibling is a welcome addition to the family.
The verdict
A refreshingly modern take on Indian-Australian dishes that will keep you entertained long after your stomach is full. Expect an upbeat crowd and lively flavours.
Score: 4/5
We rated: The drop-dead-gorgeous interior – bottle-blue velvet, millennial-pink walls and gold accents – and the snackable street-food inspired dishes.
We’d change: The music. A kitsch mix of disco quickly turned into trashy pop tunes that took away from the dining experience.
Notes: Dinner for two costs around $120, with an excellent feed-me menu at $55 a head.
All AT reviews are conducted anonymously and our writers pay their own way – so we experience exactly what you would.
