16 November 2023
10 mins Read
Neither saltwater crocodiles nor the blazing sun can put travellers off what many consider is Australia’s ultimate drive holiday. It leads to turquoise gorges, vast cattle stations and crosses ranges that were once coral reefs on the seabed.
Named after geologist Andrew Gibb Maitland, the Gibb traverses the traditional lands of many Kimberley Aboriginal people, including the Njikena, Bunuba, Ongkomi, Ngarinyin, Gedija, Worrorra and Wunumbal language groups.
The Gibb was constructed as a beef road in the 1960s but the history of the track stretches back some 60 years. Pastoralists had cut rough paths in the area to move cattle between the ports of Derby and Wyndham and outlying stations.
Today, most of this road between Kununurra in the east and Derby in the west is still unsealed, which means you will come across long stretches of road with heavy corrugations. It’s all part of the fun.
To visit Windjana Gorge is to visit the bottom of a tropical sea – or what was one, some 380 million years ago. A walk into the valley reveals fossilised remnants of an ancient sea-dwelling creature – the nautiloid – etched into the gorge wall alongside you, and an olive-green valley of prehistoric proportions.
Windjana Gorge is carved out of the Napier Range. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
But the highlight is in the middle of it all; a bottle green stillness where dozens of freshwater crocodiles lie stationary. It feels like a land lost in time – and perhaps it is.
Watch out for freshwater crocodiles along the gorge trail. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
This gorge is considered the most beautiful of the Gibb, and with good reason: there are not one, but two Olympic-sized silken black pools here, cupped by an ochre amphitheatre and multi-tiered waterfall, which can be followed downstream to another waterhole, and another, and another.
The stunning Bell Gorge is situated just off Gibb River Road. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
Though that means you’ll usually be surrounded by other visitors – a good 15 people were there when we visited; practically crowded by Kimberley standards – it’s nothing a swim downstream can’t fix. And let me tell you, little in life compares to sitting back and staring at the sky, as some of the world’s purest waters slide over your shoulders from the waterhole above.
Some of the world’s purest waters slide down the Bell Gorge. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
Most Kimberley guidebooks don’t have a lot to say about Adcock Gorge so it’s a bit of a secret gem. The short, five-kilometre trip off-road leads you to a fairly ordinary scene – a small, cloudy billabong, filled with a few plants – but follow the creek away from the grassy ‘car park’, over an easy scramble up rocks, and you’ll find a network of well-worn paths leading to a best-kept national secret.
The waterhole here – a beautiful, deep, shockingly turquoise pool – is a lush little den, framed by the majestic red-black swirl of rocky cliff face and lit by sunshine as soft and light as cotton wool. When you’re lying on your back, swimming in that water, take a moment to think about how fantastic outback life can be.
The path to Manning Gorge, an hour-long journey through the bush, is defined only by a smattering of painted rocks and strategically placed bits of plastic. There are no council-posted signs. No boardwalks. Just to access the track you need to cross a 100-metre wide creek – but the journey’s worth it for the adventure alone.
Once at your destination you’ll be rewarded with a beautiful, deep pool that you can jump into from several ledges on the waterfall; climb the waterfall to its top and there is another pool above that. Alternatively, turn left when you arrive, and you’ll find waterhole after waterhole downstream.
Dip in the tranquil pools of the Manning River. (Image: Tourism Australia)
An undeniable benefit of travelling the Gibb on an organised group tour is you don’t have to worry about driving, changing your own tyres, carrying enough water or getting lost. Here are some of the best Gibb tours on offer.
Family-owned and operated Kimberley Wild Expeditions offers excellent value tours along the Gibb in their custom built vehicles. Accommodation is in pre-erected tents and swags and all meals are included. Choose from the shorter five-day tour or go all out and jump on the 14-day Kimberley trail, which includes a journey to the Mitchell Plateau.
Get off the bitumen and jump on a 4WD adventure with APT, which boasts experienced driver-guides.
Bungle Bungle Range in Purnululu National Park is awe-striking. (Image: Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd)
Their 15-day Kimberley Complete departs from Broome and travels along the Gibb, staying at comfy properties, including their Bungle Bungle Wilderness Lodge and Mitchell Falls Wilderness Lodge.
Stay in a luxury tent at Mitchell Falls Wilderness Lodge. (Image: Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd)
For a truly intimate touring experience, opt for an adventure along the Gibb with InStyle Adventures.
Explore the Gibb with InStyle Adventures. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
Their tours are offered as private departures, ideal for couples, families and friends, which are tailored to your interests, abilities and time frame. Alternatively join a scheduled small group shared departure.
Experience outback luxury. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
Sleep along the way in stylish outback accommodation, from remote wilderness lodges, to working cattle stations and motel style rooms.
Sleep under the stars in a luxury tent. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
Accommodation along the Gibb River Road is as diverse as its waterholes, so you can really choose your own adventure. Whether you’re looking to bunker down at the classic cattle stations of Birdwood Downs, Mount Hart, Mount Barnett, Mount Elizabeth, Drysdale River or Ellenbrae Station, or under the canvas at one of APT’s perfectly positioned lodges, here are some of the best accommodations options.
This swathe of wilderness is home to several different kinds of accommodation, including basic camping and air-conditioned bungalows, but it is the luxe ultra-retreat, The Homestead, that draws travellers from across the globe.
Embrace off-grid living at El Questro Wilderness Park. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
With an upper limit of 20 guests at any one time – media moguls, music legends and movie stars often among them – the civilised microcosm of The Homestead sits in perfect contrast to the wilderness around it: a gentle blend of silver service and the rugged outback.
Stay by the side of the river at The Homestead. (Image: Delaware North Companies)
An English garden in the middle of the outback: why not? But the owners of Ellenbrae Station weren’t satisfied that they’d done enough to create an outstanding Kimberley experience with their verdant oasis: their locally famous scones, served with jam and cream on the homestead’s balcony, have made this a required pit stop along The Gibb.
Rest for a while at Ellenbrae Station.
In an enviable position just 200 metres off the Gibb River Road, Bell Gorge Wilderness Lodge is located on an Indigenous-owned site close to the Imintji Aboriginal community. Although you’re right in the bush, you won’t be roughing it here. Think tented cabins with ensuites, three-course dinners and packed lunches.
The APT tour package includes an exclusive stay at Bell Gorge Wilderness Lodge. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
The Gibb is a 660-kilometre track accessible between April and October, weather dependent. Allow a week up to 14 days to experience all the Gibb has to offer, or choose your must-see locations for a shorter trip.
Call into Derby before beginning your journey along the iconic Gibb River Road. During this 11-day odyssey you will discover the West Kimberley Gorges, the Mitchell Plateau and El Questro Wilderness Park.
The four-tiered Mitchell Falls is a sight to behold. (Image: Sarah Duguid Photography)
Add on a couple of days to the 11-day itinerary by driving to the remote Mitchell Plateau and venture into Purnululu National Park to explore the Bungle Bungles and witness the vast waters of Lake Argyle.
The majestic Lake Argyle is teeming with diverse flora and fauna. (Image: Tourism Australia)
Plunge deep into the rugged, red reaches of the Kimberley with its majestic caves and cavernous gorges 350 million years in the making. Highlights of this itinerary include Broome, Derby and Fitzroy Crossing.
Explore Geikie Gorge on a boat tour. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
Start by travelling from Broome to Derby and on to Windjana Gorge and Fitzroy Crossing. From Fitzroy Crossing take the 20-kilometre drive north to Geikie Gorge National Park and the 90-kilometre journey east to the Mimbi Caves. Either return to Broome or drive on to Kununurra.
See striking limestone formations and fossilised reefs at Mimbi Caves. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
Fuel and basic supplies are available at a small number of roadhouses and stations along the Gibb River Road. Travellers are advised to carry jerry cans with extra fuel.
Prepare for a journey of a lifetime. (Image: Sean Scott)
Derby – Imintji Store – 227km
Imintji Store – Mt Barnett Roadhouse – 80 kilometres
Mt Barnett Roadhouse – El Questro – 320 kilometres
El Questro – Kununurra 81 kilometres
Drysdale River Station
Just a few kilometres outside Derby (a two-hour drive from Broome) and 51 kilometres from Kununurra.
The iconic Gibb River Road starts from Derby to Kununurra. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
Allow 7-14 days to experience all the Gibb has to offer. If you want to zoom along the 660-kilometre track without hardly any stops it would take 10 to 11 hours.
Buckle up and get ready for the long drive. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
The majority of Gibb River Road is unsealed, which means you will come across long stretches of road with heavy corrugations, loose gravel, potholes and rocks. Be prepared for a bumpy and sometimes slow journey for most of the trip.
Red dirt stretches across the remote Gibb River Rd. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
To get the most out of the Gibb River Road you need a 4WD. If the Pentecost River level is high you won’t be able to go through it without a 4WD. For a taste of the Gibb without a 4WD you can travel from Kununurra to El Questro’s Emma Gorge, which is 25 kilometres on a sealed section of the Gibb River Road and just 2 kilometres on a gravel driveway.
The drive across Pentecost River along the Gibb River Road. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)
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Great read. We’re planning to make the trip. Thanks