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Inspire your senses with these iconic East Kimberley stays

Jennifer EnnionBy Jennifer Ennion
The East Kimberley should be on every bucket list, and here’s why.

Livistona palms soar out of chasms the colour of Valencia oranges. Shady waterholes beckon travellers daring to venture off the bitumen. From the air, fruit farms give way to vast plains that meet rolling hills and fascinating geological formations centuries in the making. The East Kimberley is one of Australia’s most treasured wilderness areas, but don’t be fooled by its rust-coloured roads. This north-eastern corner of Western Australia is home to some of Australia’s most iconic stays by Discovery Resorts  that should be on everyone’s bucket list.

A group of people enjoy an intimate dining experience at El Questro Homestead.
Dine in the heart of nature.

Your guide to Lake Argyle

The backstory

With rolling hills that glow amber at sunrise and glassy water that reflects the Kimberley’s bright blue sky, a visit to Lake Argyle is nothing short of awe-inspiring. As Australia’s second-largest man-made freshwater lake, travellers flock here to soak in the views from boats, helicopters and Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle .

The latter is a lakeside oasis, a resort where travellers crossing from Western Australia into the Northern Territory (or vice versa) converge. Fifty minutes’ drive south of Kununurra, the property is perched atop a cliff overlooking the sprawling Lake Argyle.

Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle was originally built in the late 1960s to provide accommodation for builders of the Ord River dam, which formed Lake Argyle. In the decades that followed it had several owners, until a Kununurra local took the reins in 2004 and reinvented the property with luxury villas and its now world-famous infinity pool. The iconic property was added to the Discovery Resorts portfolio in 2021, undergoing a major upgrade that took the resort from a beloved campground to an all-encompassing resort with premium waterfront villas.

A boat glides across the expansive waters of Lake Argyle, surrounded by the breathtaking landscapes of the Kimberley. As part of the Discovery Holiday Parks experience, this unforgettable journey offers adventure and relaxation.
Glide across the vast, shimmering waters of Lake Argyle.

The rooms

A lakeside resort like no other, Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle offers something for everyone, from campsites to villas and cabins . The Deluxe Lakeview Cabins have views of the opposing cliff and are surrounded by bush, ensuring plenty of privacy, while both the Deluxe and Standard Cabins are ideal for families, with contemporary furnishings and one, two or four bedrooms. The campsites also come in a variety of sizes.

The facilities

There’s no doubt the biggest drawcard to Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle is the lake, 20 times the size of Sydney Harbour. One of the best ways to experience it is on the Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer Cruise , during which you’ll see freshwater crocodiles nesting along the banks (it’s home to 30,000 freshies) and even get the chance to swim in their waters. The cruise also takes in Mt Misery, towering above the original and now submerged Argyle Downs Homestead.

If you have young children who need to get to bed early, a great alternative is the three-hour Lunch Explorer Cruise . You’ll tour around the lake’s bays as you learn about the local wildlife before stopping at a remote island for a swim.

Refuel between adventures at the onsite pub-style eatery, The Lake Argyle Cafe. The cafe is the heart of the resort, bringing together friends new and old over a steak, cold beer and live music. Hours vary with the seasons, but rest assured you’ll be able to enjoy a good feed year-round, with a well-stocked general store also open during the day.

Cool off from a day of exploring in the striking infinity pool with some of the best views in the country (you’ll find sweeping views of the lake below). Or enjoy a flight with HeliSpirit, or clear your mind during a yoga class on the lawn.

Two people unwind in an infinity pool, overlooking stunning Lake Argyle at Discovery Holiday Parks.
Take a dip in the infinity pool and soak in breathtaking Lake Argyle views.

Your guide to El Questro

The backstory

One of the most famous stays in Australia is El Questro . A former cattle station, it’s evolved into one of the country’s most recognisable tourism destinations over the past 30 years, and is now embarking on a new chapter to elevate the region’s rich First Nations culture.

The property draws travellers seeking to reconnect with nature and the beauty of this country. Wild in spirit but immaculate in style, El Questro is a 283,000-hectare property like no other; surrounded by dramatic gorges, impressive mountain ranges, thermal springs, secluded waterfalls and even rainforest, it’s the perfect base for adventurous souls.

A person floats leisurely in the river at Discovery Holiday Parks, immersed in nature’s tranquillity.
Float along Zebedee Springs and immerse in nature.

The rooms

Across the sprawling El Questro are three properties catering to the wide variety of travellers who journey this way. The most impressive is the luxurious Homestead , where 10 suites perch at the edge of a burnt-orange cliff, with cantilevered bedrooms over the peaceful Chamberlain River. The adults-only, all-inclusive Homestead is a member of the prestigious Luxury Lodges of Australia collection and offers a backdrop of thick bushland; riverside, you’ll find an immaculate lawn and a shaded pool that lures guests out of their rooms.

At Emma Gorge , travellers will be immersed in the beauty of the Cockburn Ranges, falling asleep to the sounds of wildlife in safari-style tented cabins. This is where you come if you want to completely connect with your environment while retaining a few creature comforts. The Emma Gorge Tented Cabins sleep three or four people and feature private ensuites and ceiling fans.

Families also love The Station , home to simple yet comfortable air-conditioned rooms, as well as a large, leafy campground. Sitting by the Pentecost River, The Station is open from April to October and has a range of accommodation, from unpowered and powered campsites to air-conditioned tents for two people and a Gardenview Family Room for five.

Two people stand beside a suite perched on the edge of a striking burnt-orange cliff, gazing out over the serene Chamberlain River below.
Take a breather with stunning views of nature all around.

The facilities

Located in the heart of the Kimberley, El Questro retains its strong connection with its Traditional Owners, the Ngarinyin people. A highlight of a stay here is the Injiid Marlabu Calls Us experience ; over two hours, guests are immersed in the soul of Country by witnessing ancient healing rituals, listening to generational stories and learning about the land’s ancestral heritage.

Other experiences include bird watching, cruising through Chamberlain Gorge, hiking through Emma Gorge, horse riding, four-wheel-driving and soaking in Zebedee Springs. At the properties, you can also cool off in the pools, and relax in the restaurants or at private dining locations. A bonus of staying at The Homestead is the exclusive service of El Questro’s dedicated reservations team, who will craft a bespoke itinerary tailored to your travel tastes.

A group of people stand beside a tree, with a car parked nearby, taking in the surrounding natural beauty.
Experience thrilling nature activities.

Book your East Kimberley adventure today with Discovery Resorts.

Jennifer Ennion
Jennifer Ennion is a freelance travel and ski journalist who loves encouraging people to spend more time outdoors. From snorkelling with belugas in sub-Arctic Canada to hiking the Himalayas, Jennifer is constantly searching for stories that inspire readers to push their boundaries.
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From laid-back to luxury: exploring the Kimberley two ways

    Elizabeth WhiteheadBy Elizabeth Whitehead
    Continue
    The Kimberley’s red landscape is iconic, but its true colours run deeper than the eye can see. From a croc cruise to wild bush luxury and cultural ceremony, the region reveals its many layers.

    I’m swimming in the vast, cool waters of Lake Argyle, surrounded by domes of rock glowing that unmistakable shade of Kimberley red. This is Australia’s second largest man-made reservoir – and home to some 30,000 freshwater crocodiles. There’s a sudden splash in the water near me.

    And then it surfaces: an ice-cold tinny of XXXX Gold, slung my way by skipper ‘Big Scotty’ from the stern of The Kimberley Durack. “This is Australia’s best swim-up bar,” he jokes. But with the sparkling expanse of water fringed by heaving, ancient rock formations, it’s hard to disagree.

    A croc-spotting cruise around Lake Argyle

    swimming in Lake Argyle
    Cooling off with a tinny in Lake Argyle. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    I’m cruising Lake Argyle with Big Scotty and Captain Jack Furzer, learning about the geology and wildlife of this ancient landscape. “It’s among the most geologically complex on Earth,” Jack tells us. “The oldest rocks here are 2 billion years old.”

    We’ve moored for a swim and, despite the city-sized population of resident crocs, Captain Jack has assured us that the water is safe. The freshies, he says, are timid by nature. He would know: Jack has spent years sailing these parts, and even recognises a few crocs by name.

    Captain Jack Furzer, Lake Argyle
    Cruising Lake Argyle with Captain Jack Furzer. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

    “That’s Cheech,” he’d said earlier, pointing to a sunbaking crocodilian as The Kimberley Durack pootled around the wetlands. “He’s got a girlfriend, Chong, but she’s not here right now.” When I ask how he can tell them apart, he grins. “It’s all in their personality.”

    cruising Lake Argyle onboard The Kimberley Durack
    Exploring the lake onboard The Kimberley Durack. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

    We can only cover a fraction of this Hong Kong-sized lake, but we still see plenty: agile rock wallabies bounding down the cliff face, buzzards circling overhead, mighty sandstone formations so fluid-like, it seems as if they’re spilling into the lake itself.

    rock wallabies by the river, Kimberley
    Spot rock wallabies. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Checking into Lake Argyle’s only accommodation

    an aerial view of Discovery Resorts - LakeArgyle
    Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle sits atop a cliff overlooking the lake. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

    There’s only one accommodation option in this remote yet spectacular reach of the Kimberley. Perched on a cliff overlooking the lake, Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle is a hub for caravanners and road trippers. But this is no ordinary holiday park. For a start, it’s got an infinity pool often named the country’s most beautiful.

    view from the infinity pool at Discovery Resorts - Lake Argyle
    The view from the infinity pool at Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle is considered one of the most beautiful pool vistas in the country. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

    Sidling up to the pool’s rim, I flutter my legs and gaze out at the sweeping view of the lake, topaz now, although it seems to change colour throughout the day like a giant mood ring. The vista from my lakeview cabin, one of the resort’s premium options, is even better. I’d checked in just in time to settle into my private balcony and watch an orange moon rise above the cliffs like a sunset in reverse.

    the balcony Deluxe Lakeview cabin at Discovery Resorts - Lake Argyle
    The park’s Deluxe Lakeview cabins have expansive balconies to take it all in.

    El Questro: Australia’s most remote luxury stay

    Travelling west from Lake Argyle, the Kimberley’s landscape continues to reveal itself, like origami unfolding. The roads are flanked by curious, stumpy boab trees, native to this part of Australia. They’re the only species of baobab found outside Africa: a strange, tuber-like relic of ancient Gondwanaland.

    aerial view of the El Questro Homestead, Kimberley
    Spy salties from your cabin at El Questro Homestead. (Image: Delaware North Companies)

    I’m headed for El Questro Homestead, one of the country’s most luxurious wilderness lodges. It’s secluded within El Questro wilderness park, a 165,000-hectare former cattle station that was officially returned to its Traditional Owners in 2022. On arrival, lemongrass-infused cold towels and Champagne set the tone. Here, the remoteness makes the comforts feel all the more extravagant.

    the Chamberlain Suite Bedroom interior, El Questro Homestead
    The luxury lodge’s station-chic interior. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

    The Homestead is perched atop a gorge overlooking the Chamberlain River, where guests can keep watch for salties gliding through the malachite-green water from the comfort of their suite or by the poolside. The interiors sing with station-chic decor: all toffee leathers, cowhide rugs and exposed timber beams that nod to its pastoral past. The heart of El Questro Homestead is the lounge, where guests gather each evening for sundowners and elegant, fine dining beneath the stars. But the highlight lies in the Homestead’s all-inclusive activities calendar.

    a private tub with view of the Chamberlain River, El Questro Homestead
    Take in the view of the Chamberlain River from your private tub. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

    Each afternoon, guests can embark on an after-hours visit to Zebedee Springs when it’s closed to the public. We cross the colour wheel as we hike in, swapping the Kimberley’s burnt-orange for a Jurassic-green jungle of prehistoric ferns.

    The Zebedee Springs, El Questro
    The palm-shaded Zebedee Springs. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    The hot springs seep from a fault line deep beneath the Earth’s skin, the water so pure and clear it looks invisible. I sit under a small waterfall, letting the warm water massage my back: it’s a sense of serenity that no spa could replicate.

    view of the wilderness park at El Questro Homestead
    El Questro Homestead is secluded within the wilderness park. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

    Another morning sees us tackling the park’s rugged 4WD tracks with ranger Gab Murphy, powering through epic river crossings and gunning it up hills to breathtaking lookout points. Gab points out features in the landscape, like an ancient boab tree so massive it would take more than 20 people to encircle it. But the most compelling excursions are the ones with the Ngarinyin Traditional Owners.

    The Kimberley’s new Indigenous tourism experience

    cruising the Chamberlain River
    A cruise of the Chamberlain River is included in a stay at The Homestead. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

    Standing atop a gorge overlooking the Chamberlain River, eyes closed, I hear the hypnotic murmur of a didgeridoo and the crackle of fire. Eucalyptus smoke perfumes the evening air like incense, and I feel the warmth of two hands pressing against my shoulders. “This is so your joints can be strong, to help you stand tall and proud,” whispers Mary O’Reeri, a Nyul Nyul woman from the Kimberley. She releases her grip, warms her palms over the fire, and transfers the heat to my jaw, cradling my face gently.

    The Munbala Cruise, Kimberley
    The Munbala Cruise takes guests into sacred sites with the Traditional Owners. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

    “Your voice matters,” she whispers. “Use it to speak up for injustice, to be a voice for those who don’t have one”. A final time, Mary cups heat from the flames and presses it to my sternum. “This is your ngiadi,” she says softly. “It’s an ancient pathfinder, your deep intuition, your own personal GPS. Connect with it. Learn the beauty of who you are.” When she lifts her hand, something more ineffable than warmth lingers on my skin. Mary invites me to step into the smoke billowing from the fire and let it cleanse me. I move about the haze, allowing the tendrils of smoke to swirl around me, healing my spirit as the sun dances on the river like a million golden blinks.

    a Nyul Nyul woman conducting a smoke cleansing ceremony
    A smoke cleansing ceremony with the Ngarinyin Traditional Owners. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

    This is Injiid Marlabu Calls Us, a new addition to El Questro Homestead’s activities calendar. With a vision to deepen visitors’ connection to place, this heartfelt welcome onto Wanjina Wunggurr Country is run by Mary, her husband, Ngarinyin Traditional Owner Nelson O’Reeri, and their daughter Shonelle. This smoke cleansing ceremony, or Bijagoon, is an ancient ritual, passed down by Nelson’s grandmother Injiid, who learned it from her grandmother before her. Injiid is the namesake and inspiration behind the tour, a “mother of all mothers” who was one of the first generations to make contact with the region’s first explorers.

    Learning about culture and history on Country

    Shonelle, Mary and Nelson O’Reeri
    Shonelle, Mary and Nelson O’Reeri. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

    This tour isn’t only about healing, it’s about learning, too. About the bush foods and medicines, a pantry and pharmacy to the Traditional Owners who know Country. About the extraordinary yet difficult life of Injiid. And about dark truths – the lasting damage left by the trauma of Australia’s colonial past.

    “The Kimberley has one of the highest suicide rates in the world,” Nelson tells us. “Every single Aboriginal family here has been impacted.” He begins to pluck an acoustic guitar as the family gather round to sing a tribute to relatives they’ve lost. When Nelson sets his guitar down, nobody speaks. Silence and sorrow hang thick in the air like humidity in the wet season. “For us to heal, we have to talk about it,” Nelson says.

    And so we listen, as the O’Reeri family share not just the beauty of Ngarinyin culture, but the unflinching truths of the challenges their community continues to face. “Our children’s ngiadi is broken, they feel like they don’t belong,” Mary says. “We’ve got solutions, we’ve got people on the ground. But we need to work together in the spirit of reconciliation.”

    Before we leave, the O’Reeri family perform another ritual, cleansing us with water from the Chamberlain River. Shonelle calls out to the wind, to let Country know we’re here, to look after us. Through fire, water, earth and wind, we’ve touched every element – but none more so than spirit. I still feel Mary’s handprint on my chest above where my ngiadi resides.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Getting there

    The Gibb Road in the Kimberley
    Gibb River Road runs through the heart of the Kimberley. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

    Qantas and Airnorth fly to Kununurra from Perth; Airnorth also flies from Darwin and Broome. From there, it’s a 45-minute drive south to Lake Argyle, and a 90-minute drive west to El Questro wilderness park.

    Staying there

    Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle has options ranging from campsites and powered RV spots to luxe one- and two-bedroom lakeview cabins (rates from $220 per night). There’s a bistro and bar onsite open for lunch and dinner. Breakfast is self-catered.

    El Questro Homestead is a luxurious, full-board ten-suite hideaway that caters for a maximum of 20 guests at any one time. It includes, airport transfers, fine-dining meals, alcohol and activities. Rates are from $2805 per night.

    Playing there

    an al fresco Cliffside Dinner, Lake Argyle
    The al fresco Cliffside Dinner features a bush tucker twist. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

    Kimberley Durack cruises of Lake Argyle include transfers from Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle. The resort also hosts Cliffside Dinners onsite. Excursions at El Questro Homestead include Injiid Marlabu Calls Us Aboriginal Immersion, a Munbala Cruise of the Chamberlain River with the Traditional Owners, exclusive use of Zebedee Springs each afternoon, Bush Natives and Nature 4WD tour and more.