The first permanent dining venue at Perth’s Elizabeth Quay has some high expectations to meet. Kirsten Hyam checks out the glossy new arrival.
Named after Henry William Reveley – the civil engineer responsible for the earliest public works in the Swan River Colony – The Reveley is a sleek, shiny building matching the newly developed surrounds of Perth’s $2.6 billion Elizabeth Quay precinct.
On approach, the ambient noise sounds like the space is packed, but inside we discover the buzz emanates from a spirited function up on the rooftop, which boasts a stunning snapshot of the city stretching over the river to the Rio Tinto and BHP towers and the Kings Park State War Memorial Cenotaph.
It’s a great spot for share plates with Instagram-worthy vistas, but we soon discover this view also welcome us at the first-floor restaurant.
While its much-loved sibling, The Stables Bar, is a buzzy watering hole for suits, The Reveley makes food king.
Head chef Ben Keal has put considerable effort into hand-selecting the best local produce: yabby and truffle; game meats, quail, duck and goose; with a nod to the west’s exquisite ocean fare.
On the wine list the Margaret River region is well represented, too. Service is warm and infallible; water is kept topped up and questions are welcomed.
Our entrée of plump, freshly shucked oysters served on a bed of river pebbles with a sherry-shallot vinaigrette arrives promptly, impressing with their minerally flavour.
Mains arrive in the same swift manner and, despite beautiful plating, it’s a mixed bag.
We ordered the baked ricotta gnocchi upon recommendation: with Nannup chestnuts and black truffle butter, it had the makings of an impressive dish, but we’re disappointed to find the doughy pillows are bland and lacking enough sweet ironbark pumpkin purée to lift the meal.
The shellfish paella, on the other hand, is almost too full of flavour. Spice overpowers the dish and the prawns are rubbery. The Blackwood Valley Dorper lamb, however, is a big hit. It’s beautifully tender, with smoked eggplant, saltbush salsa verde and zucchini flower the perfect accompaniments.
It’s hard to ignore the Bahen organic chocolate délice for dessert. The fudgey dome with distinctive sour cream ice-cream and crunchy salted caramel peanuts is difficult to finish solo, but well worth the group effort.
It has been a rather quiet occasion at The Reveley with only a few small tables occupied throughout the evening. Perhaps it’s time to join the rooftop party?
The details: The Reveley, Perth
Where: Eastern Promenade, Elizabeth Quay, Perth; thereveleybar.com.au
Verdict: With spaces to suit every occasion – from casual drink to special-occasion meal – we predict business will boom over summer, particularly with those stunning city views.
We rated: The attentive service, generous portion sizes and interior styling.
We’d change: Certain dishes require tweaking, but on the whole there’s not much to complain about.