How do I explore the Australian Outback?

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There are many places to go, modes of travel to get there and tours of the Australian Outback, Peter Robinson reveals which one may just suit you.

Heck, you don’t even need to own a 4WD.

 

With a bit of planning, touring the outback in a family sedan is achievable, as is walking or cycling, though a return isn’t guaranteed with those last two. That said, there are supported walking and cycling tours in some outback places such as the spectacular MacDonnell Ranges west of Alice Springs (but doing the solo Big Lap in a pair of runners isn’t recommended).

 

Major airlines fly to cities and towns in, or on the edge of, the outback. If you’ve got dollars you can charter light aircraft and choppers to almost anywhere and arrange personalised tours on the ground, or simply hire a vehicle for short on-road trips.

 

There are plenty of tour companies running outback trips in coaches, specially-built 4WD buses for smaller groups, flying tours, or speeding top to bottom by rail on The Ghan, or left to right on the Indian Pacific.

 

Coach tours are fine for a comfortable hotel/motel overview of an outback region such as Alice Springs, the MacDonnell Ranges, King’s Canyon and Uluru, and AAT Kings is one of the larger companies specialising in this field.

 

Small-group camping tours by 4WD bus are another way to venture forth without using your own vehicle or finding your GPS bearings, and this is one way to tour the Gibb River Road, for instance, and get a taste of camping at the same time.

 

Flying tours, or aircruising, is a terrific way to cover vast distances in comfort; veteran adventurer and travel writer Bill Peach has specialised in this tour market for many years. Not cheap, but extremely comfortable and scenic.

 

Rail travel to the outback has great appeal to enthusiasts, but you’ve got to really love rail journeys. The reality is this: The Ghan travels between Adelaide and Darwin via Alice Springs; a long trip, but if you break the journey at Alice it’s not so tiresome.

 

You need to travel first class to get a bed, the food’s not too bad, the rails are not smooth, and the scenery whizzes by in a blur of scrub – bypassing the very things that make the outback worthwhile. On the other hand, you can put your car/4WD on the train too, saving a lot of driving in one direction (or both).

 

In many outback regions it’s unwise to travel alone, so consider a “tag-along" adventure, where a convoy of 4WD vehicles embarks on a journey to remote regions. This style of travel offers safety in numbers, new friends and camping out under the stars, and is usually led by someone who knows the region well. Someone’s sure to have a satellite phone and HF radio. Motoring bodies (RACV, NRMA etc) in most states offer these types of tour and although there are costs involved, the advantages outweigh the expense.

 

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Mornington Peninsula’s storied past: war, shipwrecks and a runaway convict 

The Mornington Peninsula is a coastline of contrasts, where convict and military history meets shipwrecks, wild seas and adventures above and below the surface.

The Mornington Peninsula can be the kind of place where salt-tangled hair feels like a badge of honour – proof you’ve been somewhere wild, raw and real. Peel back the layers and you’ll discover stories that anchor this region to something other than its famed food and wine.

This land is the traditional Sea Country of the Bunurong/Boon Wurrung people. Long before grapevines were planted and artisanal goods were crafted, the Bunurong Traditional Owners lived in deep connection with the land and sea. Today, places such as Mushroom Reef Marine Sanctuary echo that tradition, with families exploring its rockpools in search of colourful sea stars and crabs at low tide and learning how these fragile ecosystems have been cared for across countless generations.

a group of people visiting the Port Nepean National Park
Take in the rugged coastal landscape at Port Nepean National Park. (Image: Tourism Australia)

A visit to Point Nepean National Park feels like stepping back through time. The fort, built in 1882, protected the narrow entrance to Port Phillip Bay until the end of the Second World War. It was here that the first Allied shot of the First World War was fired – at a German cargo ship trying to escape just hours after war was declared. Nearby, the old Quarantine Station, one of Australia’s first permanent quarantine facilities, established in 1852, still stands. Walking through the hospital and disinfecting complex evokes stories of those who arrived from faraway shores.

Not far from here is a story of survival that inspired the Aussie phrase ‘you’ve got Buckley’s chance’. In 1803, escaped convict William Buckley vanished into the bush near what’s now Sorrento. Everyone thought he had no hope of surviving, but he reappeared 32 years later, having lived with local Aboriginal people.

Even the waters here hold history. The infamous stretch known as The Rip, just three kilometres wide at the entrance of Port Phillip Bay, is among the most treacherous waterways. Countless ships were lost here in the 19th and early 20th centuries, and in 1967, Australia’s own Prime Minister Harold Holt disappeared while swimming off the coast, never to be found.

a seal swimming in Port Phillip Bay
A seal swimming in Port Phillip Bay. (Image: Tourism Australia/Two Palms/Harry Pope)

But for all its danger, the sea here also holds extraordinary beauty. Dolphins are often seen near Sorrento’s cliffs, while below the surface, seagrass meadows and rocky reefs teem with life. Marine tours offer a viewing to this underwater wonderland, while back on terra firma, walking trails lead along beaches, through coastal scrub, and over rock pools.

And if you think you’ll forget about the Mornington Peninsula once you’ve left? You’ve got Buckley’s chance.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

the suite interior at InterContinental Sorrento
Luxury interiors at the historic InterContinental Sorrento. (Image: Greg Elms)

Point Nepean Discovery Tents is immersive glamping beside the historic Quarantine Station. Or upgrade to luxury at the 1875-built InterContinental Sorrento .

Playing there

an aerial view of Cape Schanck Lighthouse
Make your way to the Cape Schanck Lighthouse. (Image: Tourism Australia/Two Palms/Harry Pope)

Bayplay Adventure Tours offer eco-adventures from snorkelling with sea dragons to kayaking with dolphins and cycling Point Nepean. Cape Schanck Lighthouse is fascinating to explore on a guided tour, which takes you into the lighthouse and keeper’s cottage.

Eating there

Portsea Hotel is a beautifully restored 1876 Tudor-style pub right on the beach, serving seasonal local fare.