How a surfer and a rock legend saved Australia’s beaches

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Australia’s National Surfing Reserves are hallowed ground when it comes to the beaches found along our coast, and not only for surfers.

Head down to the beach at daybreak, anywhere the swell is permitted to reach the shore, and you’ll see them. The wetsuit-clad meditators, the board shorts and bikini brigade, the groms and the silver-haired sea dogs with boards under arm, all gathered in their sandy place of worship.

Peeling towards rocky points, butting up against sandbars or curling around artificial reefs, waves break rhythmically on Australia’s coastline in all kinds of conditions. The surf calls to the soul of those who find solace duck-diving into its salty embrace. Those hooked on the indescribable feeling of riding a wave.

surfing in Bondi Beach
Bondi Beach is one of Australia’s most iconic surf spots. (Image: Elise Hassey)

When it comes to the quality of surf breaks, and the sheer number of them that ring the continent, Australia is indeed the lucky country. Surfing took off in Australia after being introduced by Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku in 1915, its popularity never waning. Australia is renowned as one of the world’s premier surfing destinations and it’s inescapably intertwined in the coastal fabric.

surfers hitting the waves
Australia’s surf breaks are the envy of the world. (Image: Elise Hassey)

“Surfing is much more than a sport," says conservationist Brad Farmer. “It’s a culture, it’s an art form, it’s a pastime, it’s a meditation. That’s why people go to the beach. Billions of visitors go there for this experience, which is really subjective and ephemeral."

two women walking down the beach staircase at Yallingup Beach
Yallingup is paradise for surfers and sun worshippers. (Image: Elise Hassey)

If Farmer’s name rings a bell, it’s because he’s also the man responsible for declaring the top beaches in Australia each year as Tourism Australia’s Beach Ambassador – a title he’s held since publishing his book 101 Best Australian Beaches with co-author Professor Andy Short in 2013. The annual list is carefully curated to showcase the diversity of beaches Australia has to offer.

surfing at Margaret River
Margaret River Surf School runs private surf lessons for all ages. (Image: Tourism Australia)

As a surfer himself, Farmer comes at it with a long history of advocating for Australian beaches. He’s responsible for creating the non-profits Surfrider Foundation Australia and Ocean Care Day, and is working alongside indomitable pro-surfer Kelly Slater to develop a model for UNESCO to recognise significant coastal sites. But it was his work as the founder of National Surfing Reserves that has led to the most profound change in how we value Australia’s outstanding surf breaks and the lifestyle they afford.

surfing at Margaret River
Margaret River is a swell magnet in the south-western corner of WA. (Image: Elise Hassey)

What are National Surfing Reserves?

The idea to protect surf breaks was seeded in 1973 when a group of local surfers created a ‘Surfing Recreation Reserve’ at Bells Beach, Victoria.

an aerial view of Bells Beach
Bells Beach is where pro Mick Fanning won his first-ever World Surf League tour. (Image: Robert Blackburn/Visit Victoria)

At the time, Australia’s surf culture was quickly gaining pace – it was the early days of Rip Curl and a time when shortboards were adopted to surf punchy beach breaks, as opposed to the longboards beloved in places like California. With our remote and untouched landscapes – and the advent of innovative gear such as wetsuits and board shorts that made the game a whole lot more enjoyable – Australia’s surf scene quickly became the envy of the world.

the Anglesea Surf Shop, Victoria
Pick up a secondhand surfboard from the old-school surf shop in Anglesea, Victoria. (Image: Elise Hassey)

Taking the concept of Bells and the power the reserve had held in the face of relentless coastal development, Farmer established the not-for-profit National Surfing Reserves in 2005 under the patronage of rock legend, environmentalist and then Federal Member of Parliament, Peter Garrett.

He had a list – the top surf spots found among about 1100 surfing beaches ringing Australia’s coast – and since Maroubra was declared as the first National Surfing Reserve in 2006, 18 more renowned breaks have been added to the list.

The criteria is strict and the application process can take anywhere from nine months to six years, but ultimately, each successful reserve is recognised as a place of “intrinsic environmental, heritage, sporting and cultural value to our nation".

the Maroubra Beach National Surfing Reserve in Sydney
Sydney’s Maroubra Beach was Australia’s first National Surfing Reserve. (Image: Destination NSW/Anna Kucera)

In 2009, Farmer helped the non-governmental Save The Waves Coalition take the idea global with the launch of World Surfing Reserves, and in 2016, Regional Surfing Reserves were added, extending to “any local surf breaks that have good waves and the community feel a sense of pride."

“It’s as much about protecting these sandy spots of worship, as it is about the community around them," says Farmer. “Empowering those who love and use our beaches, with a say in how they’re managed," he says. “This is what we call a sacred site – similar to how Indigenous Australians would have a bora ring or midden. The community have a sense that this is a place of awe, there’s something sacred about this particular site, not only for the quality of its waves."

the Yallingup Beach in WA
Yallingup Beach is considered by many as the birthplace of boardriding in WA. (Image: Tourism Australia)

For Australia’s Saltwater people, the First Nations groups born and raised to understand and care for the coast and its waves like no other, the ocean is like family. Indigenous ex-pro and co-founder of the Royal Indigenous Surfing Association, Robbie Page, sees it similarly to Farmer. “Surfing’s a healing place," he said in the ABC documentary Changing Tides. “It’s got no prejudice, it teaches every human, welcomes every human."

surfing at Freshwater Beach
Freshwater Beach has more than a century of surfing heritage. (Image: Destination NSW/Mark Clinton)

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What do National Surfing Reserves protect?

National Surfing Reserves are essentially decreed so that all people can enjoy, understand and protect these special coastal environments. While the volunteer-led National Surfing Reserves has always had people power on its side – and likely the approval of tourism boards who use the reserves in their marketing efforts – until recently, it lacked legal sway.

a surfer duck-diving under a wave at North Narrabeen Beach
A surfer ducks under a wave at North Narrabeen Beach. (Image: Destination NSW/Guy Williment)

The movement had been able to persuade the NSW government to gazette surfing reserves in 2007, formally recognising them in the Crown Lands Act. “It was the first time in the world that surfing and surfers had been recognised in any law in any country," says Farmer.

However, the reserves have since become a springboard for surf communities to read the riot act. Which is exactly what happened in 2020, when there was a threat of over-development at Killalea Regional Park – aka The Farm. “It was fought on the basis of surf reserves, and is now a [protected area] park," explains Farmer.

a surfer sitting on a surfboard on the shore while watching the waves
Surfers travel to Australia to find a magical break. (Image: Elise Hassey)

One of the key players in this fight was a local surfer called Chris Homer, the then-president of National Surfing Reserves. Leading a record-breaking paddle out to oppose the construction of a 200-seat function centre and 15 cabins inside Killalea Reserve, Homer’s passion and leadership saw him elected as mayor of Shellharbour soon after, even though he had no prior political experience.

“Whether in legislation, or lore, these places are sacrosanct and not to be touched, and the wording is such that surfers will have primacy in the decision-making process," says Farmer.

surfers sitting on the beach at Byron Bay
Byron Bay in NSW’s Northern Rivers is a wonderland for surfers. (Image: Elise Hassey)

In mid-2023, with a strong contingent of those surfers on the Central Coast, Norah Head National Surfing Reserve welcomed the news that a wind farm proposed off the coast of NSW would no longer include the surf spot. The original proposal had the potential to affect two iconic surf reserves, Norah Head and Merewether – both hotbeds of surfing talent.

Since then, more research has come to light on not only the importance of Australia’s surf breaks from an environmental point of view, but an economic one, too. Surfing is worth almost $3 billion annually to Australia’s economy, according to a recent study by the Australian National University, and that’s making more people in higher places sit up and pay attention.

surfing at Freshwater Beach, Sydney
A surfer paddling at Freshwater Beach, Sydney. (Image: Destination NSW/Adam Krowitz)

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How National Surfing Reserves are keeping surf culture alive

Another goal of National Surfing Reserves is to safeguard the continuum of surf culture. City of Gold Coast council even has a detailed Surf Management Plan, which includes programs to teach surf etiquette, to ensure visitors clearly understand local safety customs. Similarly, Noosa has a Surfer Code to reduce the chance of conflict and injury.

the Main Beach in Noosa
Noosa’s pristine Main Beach is a surfing hotspot. (Image: Tourism Australia/Glen Davis)

Surfers, after all, are not just those out riding the waves. The beauty, value and mental health benefits of surfing permeate the desirable beachside lifestyle so many Australians enjoy and visitors yearn to experience.

the surf culture in Noosa
Local community and surf culture, such as that found in Noosa, are a determining factor in what qualifies as a Surfing Reserve. (Image: Elise Hassey)

Ultimately, whether you’re a hardcore big-wave rider with saltwater in your veins or have no desire to go further than watching the waves with a coffee in hand, understanding and appreciating that these sites have seen quality waves being ridden consistently – in some places for more than 100 years – provides a sense of legacy.

the surfing reserve at Crescent Head, NSW
Ride the waves at NSW’s Crescent Head. (Image: Destination NSW/Dallas Kilponen)

Years from now, Farmer believes, these surfing reserves will become akin to national parks and, he hopes, will be protected at all levels, not excluding UNESCO. “I will continue to argue that waves have absolutely unique qualities to humanity – not just to their enjoyment, but they’re a phenomena of nature … and they deserve to be recognised as such," says Farmer.

surfboards in Bondi Beach
Surfboards lined up at Bondi. (Image: Elise Hassey)

Australia’s National Surfing Reserves

  1. Maroubra, NSW, March 2006
  2. Angourie, NSW, January 2007
  3. Lennox Head, NSW, February 2008
  4. Crescent Head, NSW, June 2008
  5. Cronulla, NSW, September 2008
  6. Merewether, NSW, March 2009
  7. Killalea, NSW, June 2009
  8. North Narrabeen, NSW, October 2009
  9. Margaret River, WA, March 2010
  10. Kalbarri, WA, March 2010
  11. Manly-Freshwater, NSW, September 2010
  12. Yallingup, WA, December 2011
  13. Gold Coast (Burleigh Heads, Currumbin Alley, Snapper-Kirra), Qld, February 2012
  14. Daly Head, SA, January 2013
  15. Point Sinclair, SA, January 2013
  16. Phillip Island (Woolamai, Smiths Beach, Summerland, Cat Bay), Vic, March 2013
  17. Noosa, Qld, March 2015
  18. Bondi, NSW, December 2017
  19. Norah Head, NSW, November 2022

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Celeste Mitchell
With visions of hosting Getaway, Celeste Mitchell graduated with a Bachelor of Journalism and entered the hard-hitting world of boy bands, puberty, and fashion, writing for magazines like Girlfriend, Total Girl, CLEO and TV Hits in the early noughties (there was a lot of Twilight references). Since switching gears to full-time freelancer in 2013, focused exclusively on travel, she’s criss-crossed the globe, opened a co-working space, lived in Mexico, and co-founded slow and sustainable site, Life Unhurried. The Sunshine Coast-based author (Life Unhurried & Ultimate Beaches Australia, Hardie Grant) and mum of two regularly pinches herself that she gets to explore new places and ask all the nosy questions she wants in the name of work.
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Slowing down in Moree: a guide to the Artesian Spa Capital of Australia

(Credit: Destination NSW)

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    The Artesian Spa Capital of Australia offers the perfect destination to escape the grind and reset.

    The world moves more slowly in Moree, and that’s how it should be. Here, country charm and heritage buildings fill the town’s wide streets. While the surrounding farmland mixes with lush riverways to create a fascinating landscape.

    But the biggest pull? Moree is known as the Artesian Spa Capital of Australia. It’s truly a place to slow down and disconnect, all an easy train ride from Sydney.

    Soak in Moree’s artesian water

    kids at Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre
    Dive in to Moree’s artesian waters.

    Moree is not your typical wellness retreat, replacing pretence with casual and easy. Blessed to be sitting above the Great Artesian Basin, it feeds the town (and surrounding villages) with hot, mineral-rich water. Loaded with minerals like calcium, magnesium, potassium and sulphur, this water is believed to help with skin health, joint function and tissue repair.

    And the town’s crown jewel, Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre, has reopened after extensive upgrades. This state-of-the-art aquatic centre offers accessible facilities with multiple artesian baths of varying temperatures between 38 and 41°C.

    Feel like exploring a little further? About an hour’s drive from Moree, the village of Boomi also offers public access to this same artesian water. Pop into Boomi Artesian Pool to make the most of a 25-metre cold pool, a wading pool and a hot artesian spa pool.

    Just an hour west of Boomi, you’ll also find Mungindi Hot Artesian Pool, another relaxing place to rejuvenate for the afternoon in the mineral-rich water.

    Moree’s best stays

    woman swimming ta Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre
    Stay right by Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre.

    There are several motels within walking distance of the aquatic centre, so you linger longer in its therapeutic waters. A day pass not enough? Really soak in the benefits of Moree at three local stays with their own artesian baths.

    Gwydir Thermal Pools Resort boasts five artesian pools for motel and caravan park guests, ranging in soothing temperatures from 34 to 39 degrees. And that includes a 25-metre lap pool.

    The Phoenix, Artesian Spa Resort & Accommodation features outdoor artesian thermal pools and six indoor artesian spas, all 34 to 42°C, plus regular pools for guests staying in their accommodations.

    While the Artesian Spa Motel matches 46 comfortable budget rooms set across five acres of landscaped grounds, with direct access (for guests) to its own natural artesian hot thermal pool.

    Moree’s location at the crossroads of the Newell and Gwydir Highways makes it the ideal resting place for those road tripping through country NSW. With plenty of accommodation options, including farm stays, quaint bed and breakfasts and affordable motels.

    Delving into nature around Moree

    aerial of moree
    Find plenty of natural beauty in and around Moree. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    Beyond the baths, find calm in Moree’s nature. Soak up the impressive Gwydir River from the peaceful Tareelaroi Weir Recreation Area. Popular with locals, this scenic spot is perfect for fishing, kayaking and picnics. Delve into local history at the Terry Hie Hie Picnic Area – a significant Gamilaroi cultural site. The picnic area is still used today as a ceremonial gathering ground, with educational signage sharing the history of the Gamilaroi People and the mission which used to reside here in the early 20th Century. Follow the Yana-y Warruwi Walking Track to explore the area’s box pine forest.

    Combine nature and culture at the Jellicoe Park Open Spaces Aboriginal Art Trail along the scenic Mehi River Walk. Find artworks from local Indigenous artists across a range of different mediums, like carved logs, engraved and painted sandstone and scar tree paintings.

    A taste of Moree

    meal at Moree Country Club
    Sit down for a tasty meal after a game of golf. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    Taste the best of local cafes as you wander past the Art Deco architecture of Moree’s tree-lined main streets. Join the locals each morning at Brooker Trading Co as they line up for their morning java. Stay for classic breakfast dishes like eggs benedict and Dutch pancakes, or arrive later in the day for a hearty lunch menu. Inside a gorgeous Art Deco building, 61 Balo is another tasty breakfast option, with pet-friendly service. The recently renovated Cafe Omega is another popular stop for fresh, hearty meals – the chicken burger is a particular crowd pleaser – all served with a smile.

    Get inspired as you wander the CBD’s Mural Trail, stopping at some of Moree’s six art galleries along the way. Bank Art Museum is a must-see, housed in the town’s heritage bank building and home to a collection of First Nations art, plus a changing calendar of touring exhibitions.

    Bank Art Museum Moree
    Step inside the gorgeous Bank Art Museum Moree. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    Get active with a round on the beautiful riverside course at Moree Golf Club (and refuel afterwards at the delicious onsite restaurant) or a game of bowls at Moree Services Club’s state-of-the-art facility. Visit on the last weekend of September to join (or watch) Run the Plains, Moree’s annual two-day running festival.

    Known as ‘white gold’ country, Moree is Australia’s most productive agricultural region. Visit from April to September to join a cotton farm tour and get to know one of Moree’s major exports.

    However long you choose to stay, there’s plenty to soak in around Moree.

    Start planning the ultimate escape at visitmoreeplains.com.au.