A willingness to understand Indigenous culture is the first step towards celebrating it

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Denise Bowden is the chief executive officer of the Yothu Yindi Foundation and the director of Garma, Australia’s leading Indigenous event that celebrates the ancient culture and traditions of the Yolngu people and provides an environment where people from all over the country can gather to listen, learn and exchange ideas.

There’s got to be something in 60,000-plus years, right? There’s got to be something of some quality for it to have survived, and not only survived, but in our neck of the woods out in Arnhem Land it’s prospering. It’s rich and it’s culturally authentic. Some of Australia’s most prolific Indigenous artists come from Arnhem Land and they’re exhibiting over in New York and Paris, but there’s more substance to it than being purely pretty art. It’s got to be more than just seeing the beauty in the art because if you don’t understand it holistically, you’re only a tiny bit into something that is so deep and philosophical. There’s extensive historical components to Indigenous cultural art, religious components even, and you really do have to be prepared to throw yourself into it to understand its angles. I find a lot of people are terrified of doing that, and you know what, we know.

Denise Bowden is the director of Garma
Denise Bowden is the director of Garma.

A reciprocal relationship of respect

We’re waiting for you. Indigenous people have a profound respect for Western civilisation and church and religions and the way that people live in their certain lifestyles, however, it should be a reciprocal relationship. There’s got to be something in seeing that Indigenous culture is also quite sophisticated. If you’re just going to sit there and say, ‘Look, it’s just a bit of a sermon, a dance’, it tells me that you don’t know very much about Indigenous culture at all.

Generations of the Gumatj clan prepare to tell their stories as part of Garma Festival 2019
Generations of the Gumatj clan prepare to tell their stories as part of Garma Festival 2019. (Image: Elise Hassey)

Wouldn’t it be wonderful to be able to talk about Indigenous culture in an amazingly positive and reconciled, true way? We could be leaders in an international field, however, we haven’t quite gotten there yet. I think that a lot of the resistance is due to the fact that it’s terrifying: what happens if I make a mistake along the way? But our community knows you’re going to make a mistake and we’re OK with that.

 

We’ve also got to stop doing things like hurling racial abuse on the football oval and understand what impact that has on society. Surely we’ve got to be a little bit more mature about the way that we manage that. It does nobody any good. The mindset that exists when that sort of thing happens sets our nation back many years. But I also see positivity.

I’ve been at the Yothu Yindi Foundation for 11 years now, and I have seen a fundamental shift and it’s been measured in little bits and pieces.

The Garma Festival is an invitation

The Garma Festival is the epitome of how you can showcase the beauty of culture. For me personally, the most amazing part is that this sharing of culture is done with a genuine generosity of spirit. What you do with the gift is up to you.

The official opening of Garma
The official opening of Garma commences with the arrival of the Gumatj clan. (Image: Elise Hassey)

If you choose to deep dive into it, that’s your journey. But I think a really important part of this is not to underestimate the gift at hand, because it’s such a long and profound journey through the whole thing. It’s so rich and it’s just so authentic. If you’re not prepared to go through the process of understanding it, you’re not going to understand what its value is, right? That’s up to you, but also don’t criticise it if you don’t understand it holistically.

A young festival-goerat Garma
A young festival-goer gets into the spirit at this leading Indigenous cultural event. (Image: Elise Hassey)

You don’t need to come to the Garma Festival to learn about culture. Engage with the local people, understand what the challenges are for them, because Indigenous people don’t have a level of self-entitlement like non-Indigenous people do so the mindset for an Indigenous person is very different. And you shouldn’t be terrified of it, you just have to understand the way people’s brains work.

Garma Festival inspires many, including the next generation of Yolngu
Garma Festival inspires many, including the next generation of Yolngu. (Image: Elise Hassey)

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

The conversation we need to have

Racism is very real in Australia. I really check myself when I say that, but it is prevalent in Australia. Why can’t we have a conversation about why it ends up being about the colour of someone’s skin? I think that conversation has to happen, whether you’re better than that person next to you because of the pores of your skin. I think it’s a maturity conversation for our nation, to be honest. I mean, the Garma Festival has been having this conversation for quite some time. We’ve been talking about truth-telling and talking about Makarrata for many years now. And we see the traction.

Gumatj women dancing at Garma Festival
Gumatj women dancing at Garma Festival. (Image: Elise Hassey)

I have seen people actively change their thinking; they call the festival life altering. I had a very nice elderly non-Indigenous man come up to me and say, ‘Denise, you do understand that I don’t deliberately try to be racist’. And I said, ‘Well, tell me what’s going on’. And he said, ‘Well, it’s in my DNA. I don’t know any different because that’s how I was taught. So I don’t know any different when you throw me into an unknown situation, I don’t know what the hell I’m doing. I’m completely out of my comfort zone’. He was wrestling with his own conscience, bless.

Don’t stay in your comfort zone

I think as a nation, we’re doing ourselves a disservice if we don’t seize the opportunity to educate ourselves. Unless you’re digging down into the detail you don’t actually realise what amazing qualities there are in Indigenous culture. There’s a beauty in each of our states’ Indigenous communities. They have a flair about them and different colours and different beauty and different structures and different ways of being, different ways of conversing. And, the lifestyle is very different from one to the next. Ideally you wouldn’t have to force people to understand this. You’d just think that they’d see it for themselves. But it’s easier to stay at arm’s length in your comfort zone.

Women decorating yidakis at Garma
Decorating yidakis at Garma. (Image: Elise Hassey)

I don’t want to be bogged down in negativity. I’m in a world of positivity in terms of what I see happening in my community. There’s a great deal of pride and ability for people to showcase what they’re capable of doing. And it’s not just art. It’s also social enterprises, educational elements, understanding how bush pharmacy happens out this way. So yeah, please get stuck in to knowledge everybody.

Garma incorporates visual art into the festival
Garma incorporates visual art as part of its multifaceted reach. (Image: Elise Hassey)

What is the Uluru Statement from the heart?

The Uluru Statement from the Heart was created during the First Nations National Constitutional Convention and released on 26 May 2017. The document represents a historic consensus of First Nations leaders in seeking constitutional change to recognise First Australians through a voice in parliament.

Uluru
Uluru, a dual natural and cultural World Heritage site in the heart of Australia.

The debate over constitutional recognition has raged for years, but the Uluru Statement is the result of a collective agreement from the 250 Indigenous leaders who gathered together from across the country, and following engagement with more than 1200 Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander representatives over a six-month period.

 

With the guiding principles of voice, treaty and truth, the Statement invites all Australians to join Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people in a movement for a better future, and calls for meaningful structural reforms to be made, including the establishment of a Voice to Parliament enshrined within the Constitution. While previous documents have petitioned Parliament, the Uluru Statement addresses all Australians.

 

The Voice to Parliament would give Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people an opportunity to contribute to and influence the laws and policies that directly impact them, by establishing a permanent institution to provide advice to Parliament and Government.

 

The Statement and the agenda it represents calls for Makarrata, a concept belonging to the Yolngu people of north-east Arnhem Land that describes a coming together after a struggle in order to heal the divisions of the past. The Statement recommends the establishment of a Makarrata Commission to oversee the processes of agreement between the government and First Nations people.

 

As yet, the principles of the document, given in good faith and with high hopes, have not been enacted. You can read the Uluru Statement from the Heart and support its ideals at ulurustatement.org and fromtheheart.com.au

 

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The road trips and trails you need to experience in Victoria now

    Kellie Floyd Kellie Floyd
    Wind through fern tunnels, stop for a wine in a tram bar, or chase giant murals across the wheatbelt. These drives and rides prove Victoria’s best stories are found off the straight and narrow. 

    There’s something unmistakably Australian about a road trip: car packed, playlist on, landscapes shifting. Travelling down the highway toward Healesville, in Victoria’s Yarra Valley, the mountains rise, flanking me on both sides. I feel its embrace, a silent invitation to explore what lies beyond.  

    Moss-covered embankments rise on either side, and towering mountain ash trees form a green tunnel overhead. Road signs warn of wombats and cyclists but with giant ferns lining the roadside, the landscape feels prehistoric, as if a dinosaur might suddenly emerge. This, the Black Spur, is one of my favourite road trips. 

    The Black Spur 

    The Black Spur drive
    Through the forested canopy of The Black Spur drive that winds from Healesville to Narbethong. (Image: Neisha Breen)

    Location: Yarra Ranges
    Duration: 30 kilometres / 30 minutes 

    The Black Spur is short compared to other Victorian road trips, just 30 kilometres, stretching from Healesville to Narbethong. But what it lacks in distance, it makes up for in scenery. Just outside Healesville, Maroondah Dam offers bushwalks and scenic views. However, if pressed for time, Selover’s Lookout is an easy roadside stop offering uninterrupted views of the dam.  

    In Narbethong, close to the Marysville’s snowfield, is the Black Spur Inn, a charming double-storey brick hotel that’s been welcoming travellers since 1863. Here, diners cosy up by the roaring fire or gaze through the floor-to-ceiling windows, imagining horse-drawn coaches carrying hopeful gold seekers to the eastern goldfields.   

    Victoria’s Silo Art Trail 

    Silo Art Trail
    The Silo Art Trail in the Wimmera Mallee region. (Image: Visit Victoria/Anne Morely)

    Location: Various towns across the Wimmera Mallee region
    Duration: More than 200 kilometres / 4–5 hours but best over a minimum of three days  

    What began as a way to draw travellers back into town bypassed by highways – places such as Nullawil, Sea Lake and Patchewollock – has grown into a celebrated outdoor art movement. The Silo Art Trail now includes 23 silos, each transformed with large-scale mural portraits sharing local stories, celebrating community heroes, Indigenous history, farming life, or regional identity.  

    The Nullawil silo, for example, is a portrait of a local farmer in a chequered flannelette shirt alongside his loyal kelpie, painted by artist Sam Bates (AKA Smug). And the silos at Albacutya in the Grampians, painted by artist Kitt Bennett, depict her joyful memories of growing up in the countryside. Many of the murals sit right in the heart of small towns, such as Rochester and St Arnaud, making them perfect spots to pause for a country pub meal or something sweet from a local bakery.   

    Metung to Mallacoota  

    Gippsland lakes
    Gippsland Lakes. (Image: Visit Victoria/Josie Withers)

    Location: Gippsland
    Duration: Approximately 220 kilometres / 4 hours  

    The Gippsland Lakes are a much-loved holiday spot in Victoria, but road-tripping further east reveals much more. Begin in Metung and time your visit with the monthly farmers’ market, or simply linger over lunch on the lawn of the Metung Hotel. Twenty minutes away is Lakes Entrance, where you can watch the fishing boats return with their catch. 

    Lakes Entrance
    Lakes Entrance. (Image: Visit Victoria/Iluminaire Pictures)

    Continue to Marlo, where the Snowy River spills into the sea, and Cape Conran for its many beaches and walks. If needing to stretch your legs, Croajingolong National Park is home to the historic Point Hicks Lighthouse and the Wilderness Coast Walk. Birdwatching and rainforest trails near Bemm River are worth a pit stop before arriving in Mallacoota, where the forest meets the sea. 

    Great Ocean Road 

    12 Apostles on the Great Ocean Road
    The 12 Apostles on the Great Ocean Road. (Image: Tourism Australia/Two Palms/Harry Pope)

    Location: South-west Victoria, from Torquay to Allansford
    Duration: Approximately 250 kilometres / 4–5 hours but best over a minimum of three days  

    Victoria’s most famous road trip delivers it all: world-class surf breaks, rainforest walks, clifftop lookouts and wildlife encounters. The journey begins in Torquay, the state’s surf capital, then hugs the coast past Anglesea and Lorne to Apollo Bay, before curving inland through the lush rainforest of the Otways. Stop at Cape Otway Lightstation or take to the treetops at Otway Fly.  

    Between Cape Otway and Port Campbell lies the most photographed stretch – seven of the Twelve Apostles still standing, alongside the golden cliffs of Loch Ard Gorge. Further west, Warrnambool is a winter whale-watching hotspot, before the road winds to Port Fairy, a charming fishing village of whalers’ cottages, walking trails and offshore seal colonies further along the coast. 

    Bellarine Taste Trail 

    Terindah Estate
    Terindah Estate. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

    Location: Bellarine Peninsula
    Duration: Approximately 80 kilometres / 2–3 hours  

    The Bellarine Taste Trail is a feast for the senses, winding through coastal towns, past boutique wineries and artisan producers. It’s a choose-your-own-adventure style trail – simply grab a map and build your own delicious journey.  

    You might wander historic, seafront Queenscliff, sip wine in a converted tram bar at Terindah Estate, sample a locally distilled whisky at The Whiskery in Drydale or pick up a jar of honey at Wattle Grove in Wallington. Seafood lovers can head to Portarlington, famous for its mussels. Eat them fresh at local restaurants or head out on the water with Portarlington Mussel Tours. 

    O’Keefe Rail Trail – Bendigo to Heathcote 

    Pink Cliffs Reserve
    Pink Cliffs Reserve in Heathcote can be seen on the O’Keefe Rail Trail. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

    Location: Central Victoria
    Duration: Approximately 50 kilometres / 4 hours cycling 

    Travellers first journeyed between Heathcote and Bendigo in 1888, when the railway line was built to link the towns. Trains stopped running in 1956, but today the route has a new life as the O’Keefe Rail Trail. The path is mostly level for easy riding, and along the way you’ll cycle past bushland, waterways and reserves. There are plenty of places to picnic, birdwatch, and if you’re lucky, spot a platypus.  

    The trail is well supported with water stations, bike repair points, shelters, and signage. Axedale makes a great halfway stop, with the pretty Campaspe River Reserve for a rest and local cafes for refuelling. Begin in Heathcote, known for its wineries and cafes, or in Bendigo, which is easily reached by train from Melbourne/Naarm. Shorter sections, such as Heathcote to Axedale, are also popular. 

    Goldfields Track – Ballarat to Bendigo 

    Location: Central Victoria
    Duration: Approximately 210 kilometres / 2–3 days cycling  

    The Goldfields Track traces a route once so rich in gold it made Melbourne one of the wealthiest cities in the world. Starting at Mt Buninyong, south of Ballarat, the trail leads mountain cyclists and walkers north through Creswick, Daylesford and Castlemaine before finishing in Bendigo. Along the way, you’ll encounter granite outcrops, eucalypt forests, rolling farmland and remnants of the region’s mining past.  

    As it passes through the lands of the Dja Dja Wurrung and Wadawurrung people, the track shares gold rush history and Indigenous stories brought to life by interpretive signs. Walk or ride the full trail or choose from one of its three distinct sections. With cosy stays, cafes and pubs, it’s easy to mix wilderness with comfort.