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Bellingen: the riverside town bordered by rainforest and waterfalls

Credit: Dangar Falls / Destination NSW

This creative, colourful town on the Waterfall Way on NSW’s Coffs Coast promises outdoor adventures, festivals and culinary experiences that rival the Big Smoke – and it should be top of the list for your next long weekend.

The tropical breeze whistles through the hinterland, down the aptly named Waterfall Way and straight into the rainforest-fringed heart of Bellingen, located five-and-a-half hours from Sydney and four-and-a-half hours south of Brisbane. We’ve gone back in time, and yet into the future, with Hyde Street’s heritage facades mingling with future-minded businesses keen to put the planet first.

Creativity blooms freely and the wild – rivers, mountains and walking tracks included – is always close by. Bello, as the locals know it, is a designated Here’s how to do it best.

Day 1: explore Bello’s boutiques and burgeoning dining scene

The Emporium Bellingen, Bellingen
Shop in a heritage-listed building at The Emporium Bellingen. (Credit: Destination NSW)

Start with breakfast at, where views stretch out across the hinterland and local roaster Amelia + Toby supply the rich, earthy coffee beans. Tuck into sardines on toast or fried banana bread on a bench overlooking the paddock; on Sundays, expect live music into the afternoon.

It’s a short walk to the Emporium Bellingen, stocked with flowy linen womenswear and Akubra hats in the heritage-registered Hammond and Wheatley department store; a bit further still to the tiny Bellinger Book Nook for your next paperback; and furthest to the Old Butter Factory Village, a warren-like enclave that hosts original art alongside internationally-sourced homewares.

Pick up a Portuguese-style grilled chicken burger at Coastal Harvest for lunch. Check out the Bellingen Potters Collective for a handcrafted vessel or find woven gems at Cloth Paper Clay. Come afternoon, it’s hard to pass up the lullaby at George Edmunds Reserve when the river gently ripples against its grassy banks.

Don’t go past Bruno’s for dinner. The candlelit Mediterranean-inspired eatery is tucked away behind the main street, with a courtyard and patio to boot, and serves up seasonal, shareable plates such as fat king prawns, flaky spanakopita and creamy pumpkin dip studded with fried chickpeas. Pair with a cucumber gimlet and chatter the night away.

History buffs: go back in time with the Bellinger Historic Society’s Bellingen History Walk, available as a digital PDF.

Brunos Mediterranean Kitchen
Bruno's Mediterranean Kitchen is a crowd pleaser. (Credit: Destination NSW) 
Brunos Mediterranean Kitchen
Indulge in share plates at the Mediterranean eatery. (Credit: Destination NSW) 
Brunos Mediterranean Kitchen
The restaurant also has a seating area in a courtyard and patio. (Credit: Destination NSW) 

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Day 2: chase waterfalls and explore Dorrigo

Pick up a fresh-out-of-the-oven loaf of woodfired bread at Hearthfire and treats from the Bellingen IGA, located within the historic former JP Halpin & Sons department store, and organic-centric Kombu Wholefoods for this afternoon’s rainforest picnic.

Fuel up with a single-origin brew from Black Bear, the longest-running cafe in Bellingen, and nurse it while visiting the Waterfall Way Visitor Information Centre on Hyde Street before driving 30 minutes west to Dorrigo’s town centre.

Chase that coffee with a meringue-topped pineapple-caramel doughnut from Peaches Patisserie (open Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays) and locally-made souvenirs at Dorrigo and Beyond before chasing waterfalls in Dorrigo National Park, where the Dorrigo Rainforest Centre offers guided tours and trip-planning advice. (The Bellinger River National Park, just down the road, has no marked tracks but is prime for experienced bushwalkers.) Try the 3.2-kilometre return, or the wheelchair-accessible, family-friendly Satinbird Stroll, ideal for twitchers.

Divvy up lunch in the designated Glade or Never Never picnic areas, or alongside the Bielsdown River back in Dorrigo proper.

Drive a few minutes north of Dorrigo to tick off the 30-metre-tall Dangar Falls, too, or head west another 40 minutes to find Ebor Falls, where the tiered cascades are visible from four lookout platforms.

Dangar Falls, Dorrigo
A dip beside Dangar Falls in Dorrigo National Park. (Credit: Destination NSW) 
Dangar Falls, Dorrigo
Hike through rainforest in Dorrigo National Park. (Credit: Destination NSW) 
Ebor Falls, Ebor
The scenic Ebor Falls in Guy Fawkes River National Park. (Credit: Destination NSW) 

Back in Bello, feast on chewy sourdough pizza topped with roasted organic mushrooms, smashed olives and spicy pepperoni at Charlie’s at Church, and swing by the Bellingen Memorial Hall for the monthly Bellingen Film Lovers movie night, which showcases flicks in a hall that – 100 years ago – was built on the back of a local picturehouse’s success.

Day 3: venture further afield to see other gems of the Coffs Coast region

Today, choose your own adventure – and your own direction. Will you:

Take option one and head south-east out to the seaside town of Urunga, a 15-minute drive away, where the newest section of the 850-metre Urunga Boardwalk has opened, extending the track with 80 metres of walkway and a new fishing platform? From here, spot where the Bellinger and Kalang rivers meet before they reach the ocean. Dip into the Urunga lagoon, visit the Urunga Museum to brush up on local history, and cap off the afternoon with a charcuterie board on the edge of the Bellinger River at Raleigh Winery.

Solitary Islands Surf School, Woolgoolga
Ride waves with Solitary Islands Surf School. (Credit: Destination NSW)

Or choose option two and head north towards Coffs Harbour? Welcome the day with a surf lesson in Sawtell with Solitary Islands Surf School or a SUP circuit with Wajaana Yaam Gumbaynggirr Adventure Tours and owner Clark, a proud Gumbaynggirr man who showcases Red Rock or Moonee Creek while sharing local First Nations culture. It’s almost obligatory to stop by the Big Banana Fun Park for a chocolate-coated frozen banana and game of mini-golf.

Wajaana Yaam Adventure Tours
A one-of-a-kind cultural experience with Wajaana Yaam Adventure Tours. (Credit: Destination NSW)

For lunch, visit Miquette for French-style prosciutto-stuffed baguettes, lemon crepes and roasted beetroot salad. Walk it off along the riverside Garlambirla circuit at the North Coast Regional Botanic Garden, where endemic plants and their traditional uses are showcased across 14 informative, Gumbaynggirr-informed plaques, and then brave the Forest Sky Pier at Sealy Lookout, which cantilevers over 20 metres over the green canopy.

Forest Sky Pier, Niigi Niigi - Sealy Lookout, Korora
Take in expansive views of the region from Forest Sky Pier. (Credit: Destination NSW)

End the day’s journey back in Bellingen for slow-cooked lamb shoulder or hot-honey-soaked saganaki with a side of Dorrigo National Park vistas at Three Blue Ducks. Steak night specials run on Mondays.

Three Blue Ducks, Belligen
Feast at Three Blue Ducks. (Credit: Steven Woodburn via Destination NSW)

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Day 4: channel your creative spirit with annual Coffs Coast festivals

First, real food: the Bellingen Farmers Market runs on Wednesday afternoons, the Bellingen Community Markets are on the third Saturday of the month and the Bellingen Growers Market feature every other Saturday.

Second, brain food. In June, the Bellingen Readers & Writers Festival brings bookworms from across the country to the town’s stages, bookshops and classrooms for three days. The Taranta Festival combines art, music and culture over a weekend at the end of October, with workshops, performances and a hearty dose of Mediterranean cuisine.

Within a short drive of Bello, you’ll find the Woolgoolga Curryfest – and its lineup of eating, dancing and celebrating culture – during September, the Sawtell Chilli Festival and its 100-plus stallholders on one spicy July day, and the jam-happy, participation-welcome Dorrigo Folk & Bluegrass Festival for three days in October.

Old Butter Factory Cafe, Bellingen
Stop for lunch at the Old Butter Factory Cafe. (Credit: Destination NSW)

Plan your fourth day to align with one of the festivals and channel the inspiration further: write your next great novel from the frond-shaded garden at the Old Butter Factory Cafe, take a cyanotype printmaking or bowl-turning class during the Camp Creative festival, or learn about regional producers during a seven-course dinner at The Blue Door, where the farmers are showcased as much as the dishes they help create.

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Riley Wilson
Riley Wilson is a journalist and editor based between Sydney, Tamworth and Tasmania. She grew up in Australia and the United States, with extensive travels throughout Europe and Asia along the way. A former newspaper editor, she currently contributes to publications in Australia and abroad, covering travel, food, agriculture, sustainability and architecture. When she's not playing with words or chasing adventures, she spends her time fishing, bushwalking and sipping hot cuppas in far-flung places. 
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The secret Sydney suite life: a luxury under-the-radar stay right on the harbour

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    This winter, these secret Sydney harbour suites are the staycation we’ve been looking for.

    Whether it’s the crisscrossing ferries or the white sails of the Opera House rising out of blue depths, Australia’s biggest city lives for its harbour. But while locals might glance at that watery expanse on their daily commute across the Bridge, it can still be hard to truly connect with Sydney’s maritime soul. The secret: seeing the harbour eye-to-eye, right at water level. And what better place to submerge yourself in that energy than sleeping there? That’s where Pier One Sydney Harbour comes in (and with new all-inclusive bed and breakfast benefits, there’s even more to love).

    All-inclusive VIP benefits

    Who Is Elijah Amenities at Pier One Sydney Harbour
    Book in for the all-inclusive VIP treatment.

    The hard truth is that it will be very difficult to tear yourself away from your ultra-luxurious harbour home-away-from-home to explore the city. If you want to make leaving even harder, opt for Pier One’s all-inclusive VIP treatment.

    The Bed and Breakfast with Suite Benefits package turns up the volume on what is already the ultimate staycation, with complimentary valet parking, daily breakfast for two and turndown service. The biggest perk? Enjoy a bottle of French champagne every day during your whole stay

    Pier One Sydney Harbour

    Pier One Sydney Harbour
    Step into a piece of history with all the modern comforts. (Credit: Dave Wheeler)

    The five-star Pier One Sydney Harbour is quite literally old Sydney through and through. Built on what was once a working cargo wharf and the passenger terminal for those heading to the North Shore before the bridge was constructed, the heritage building sits right between the tangle of cobblestones, pubs and alleyways of The Rocks and the historic docking zone of Walsh Bay – at the centre of the city’s old sea trade.

    If knowing the hotel’s history isn’t enough to get your sea-longing going, the interior design certainly will. As soon as you step up to the concierge desk in the lobby of the restored building – which underwent a $15 million redevelopment in 2019 – you’re immersed in Sydney’s seafaring tale. Weathered wood panelling and white marble floors surround you, while loop lighting installations hover above the bar island just beyond, ringed with stools ready for intimate, martini-tinted conversations. Steel rivets and timber beams speak to its past, and glass-walled views anchor you firmly in the present-day life on the harbour.

    Pier One Suites

    Pier One Sydney Harbour admiral suite
    Enjoy incredible views from your suite.

    Across the 189 rooms and suites built on and over the water, the maritime theme continues. Sculptural aged brass fittings, exposed girders, colour schemes that evoke shifting currents, and mirrors that reflect ripples that – depending on your booking – sit just metres from your pillow.

    United on theme yet unique in set-up, each room or suite is different. On the ground floor, dog-friendly rooms with direct access to the pier are all prepped for pampered pups, while others have views and even balconies overlooking Walsh Bay, the Bridge and the Harbour.

    But the 19 suites step things up even more. Gaze out through floor-to-ceiling windows, or get even closer. Your private balcony is made for sipping a Nespresso coffee on as the sun comes up – or soaking in the bathtub of the Admiral Suite on the deck, a drink from the locally stocked mini bar in hand. This mini bar was recently completely transformed, so you have more Aussie favourites to choose from, including alcohol and snacks.

    Dining at Pier One

    Pier Bar Pier One Sydney Harbour
    Settle in for an afternoon of good drinks and views.

    Once you’re checked in, start your afternoon with a spritz at PIER BAR – or arrive by boat via the private pontoon if the occasion calls for it – and settle into one of the cabanas. Weekdays bring Happy Hour (or ‘sunset hour’ at Pier One); weekends bring the DJs. After an even sweeter experience? The Everyday Creamery and Matcha Kiosk is slinging mango and vanilla soft serve – classic and those spiked with Midori and gin alike.

    PIER Dining is an ode to contemporary Australian flavours across the terrace, pier and dining room. On its seafood-leaning menu are Sydney rock oysters from Merimbula, potato scallops with salmon roe and crème fraîche, chicken with melting sundried tomato butter, vodka rigatoni with Shark Bay prawns. And the ‘Pierlova’ – that’s pavlova with chocolate, dulce de leche and banana is worth saving room for. Make sure to ask for the wine list – it’s 100 per cent Australian drops.

    Around town

    luna park, sydney opera house and sydney harbour bridge
    Explore the neighbourhood during your stay. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    If you’re strong enough to polish off just one last pastry from the breakfast buffet and walk out the door, we applaud you. Luna Park across the harbour beckons with its wide grin, while a glance upward might spur you to climb the Bridge’s famous iron arches. The Opera House – just across Circular Quay from the Museum of Contemporary Art – sings out for a concert.

    You’ll want to book ahead for those hot-ticket performances at Sydney Theatre Company and Sydney Dance Company, just a few minutes’ walk south of the hotel. Ten minutes further brings you to the waterfront bars, restaurants and clubs of Barangaroo, or the karaoke, gardens and dim sum of Chinatown further afield.

    Keep the mellow of your weekend getaway going with a stop at Barangaroo Reserve, watching the yachts go by – all before returning for that Sydney sundowner at Pier One.

    Ready to make that Pier One stay a reality? Book the ultimate Sydney staycation at pieronesydneyharbour.com.au

    Blue Pool, Bermagui NSW

    Part of The best of regional NSW