Where to find the best oysters in Port Macquarie

hero media
In search of that slippery, suckery, erotic delicacy? Here is how to gets well and truly shucked at Port Macquarie on the NSW mid-north coast.

Let’s not beat about the bush. Oysters are one of the world’s ugliest foods. Despite their decidedly icky looks, however, they have long been the stuff of legend, myth and desire.

 

Aphrodite herself, Greek goddess of love, emerged from the sea on an oyster shell, giving birth to the word “aphrodisiac" – which has been closely linked with the briny bivalve ever since. Roman emperors apparently liked them so much they paid for them by their weight in gold, sending thousands of slaves to the shores of the English Channel to gather the marvellous molluscs. Casanova was rumoured to have eaten at least 50 off the breasts of his mistress every morning.

 

You either love them or hate them. If you love them, head to Port Macquarie on the NSW mid-north coast, where a string of oyster farmers have opened up their doors to oyster lovers who know that fresh from the farm is best.

Wallis Lake

Barclays Oyster Farm, the southern hemisphere’s largest producer of Sydney rock oysters, is at Forster, around 300km north of Sydney.

 

With a dozen freshly shucked oysters going for a song, stock up, find yourself a shady spot beside the water and gorge yourself with platefuls of briny molluscs doused in fresh lemon as you spend an hour or two paddling in the shallows of the Great Lakes – which are actually three great lakes – Myall, Smiths and Wallis – with a series of interconnecting waterways.

 

Barclay Oysters // Corner Mark & Little St, Forster. Open Mon-Fri 6.30-5pm; Sat 10-5pm.

Lansdowne River

Stones Oyster Farm is an hour up the road at Coopernook, on the banks of the Lansdowne River, which in turn feeds into the Manning River, the only river in Australia to have two entrances to the sea.

 

Entrance No.1 is at Old Bar, just one of a string of close-to-deserted beaches that stretch along the coast near Taree. Life here is pretty laidback, particularly during the Old Bar Festival each October long weekend when the seaside hamlet becomes the venue for the world record attempt for the largest gathering of kombi vans.

 

Entrance No.2 is at Manning Point about 10km north as the crow flies, but 40km by road. Strung out along the riverbank is the seaside village of Harrington, home to a fabulous waterfront pub bistro that gets packed on weekends, and a breakwall that’s perennially lined with hopeful anglers of all ages.

 

Take a walk along the river’s edge and check out the colourfully painted bollards that depict local figures from the village’s past, then drive out to Crowdy Head for endless views of the coastline from the lookout near the blue and white lighthouse.

 

Stone’s Oysters & Seafoods // 479 Harrington Rd, Coopernook. Open daily 8am-5pm.

Camden Haven River

The next big river to spill into the sea is the wide and sluggish Camden Haven, an easy 30min drive north. Here, half-hidden by mangroves beneath the North Haven Bridge at Laurieton, you’ll find Armstrongs Oyster Shed.

 

Brandon Armstrong, whose Dad’s been growing oysters here for more than 40 years, explains that they’ve only opened up the farm to the public in the past 12 months. While there are plans for a fancy tasting room, at the moment it’s a rough and ready experience as you pick your way among the litter of oyster shells, dodging big burly blokes in gumboots wielding short sharp knives.

 

You can, like most people, slurp your freshly shucked oysters straight from the shell while standing at the tiny counter in amongst the machinery, or take a tray and a handful or two of fresh prawns up to the lookout at nearby North Brother Mountain, or down to the picnic tables under the casuarinas at Dunbogan Beach, or eat while you wander along the river walk that leads to North Haven Beach.

 

Armstrong Oysters // Lot 1 Short St, Laurieton. Open Mon-Fri 7am-4pm, weekends 9am-3pm.

Hastings River

Follow the coast road for 30km to Port Macquarie, stopping along the way to pick up a bottle of local wine at one of the area’s five local wineries (tip: the 2005 Semillon from Innes Lake Vineyard on the outskirts of Port Macquarie is perfect with oysters) and snag yourself a table on the floating pontoon beside the “big oyster" shed on the Hastings River. Thankfully, the only big oyster you’ll see is on your plate – the “real" fibreglass and concrete big oyster is back down the highway at Taree.

 

They’ve been growing oysters in Hastings since the 1870s, and there are currently around 30 farmers on the river, although the only place you can buy direct from the farmer is here at the Big Oyster. It’s a magic spot for sitting out over the water and watching the pelicans glide by.

 

The Big Oyster // Hastings River Drive, Port Macquarie. Mon-Fri 10-5pm, w/ends 10-4pm.

Macleay River

It’s a bumpy, dusty drive beside the Macleay River just south of South West Rocks (home to Smoky Cape Lighthouse and a prison with a killer view, Trial Bay Gaol) to get to the big blue shed at Rainbow Reach, with potholes so deep you could fish in them – but the drive is worth it. John Elford’s oysters explode in your mouth, salty and creamy, with a lingering mineral aftertaste.

 

He’s been oyster farming here for a dozen years, is passionate about his product and the river he works and lives by, and reckons he wouldn’t want to do anything else. “I get up early in the morning and take the boat out on the river when it’s as flat as a tack," he says. “That’s my office. How can you beat that?"

 

Rainbow Reach Oysters // Rainbow Reach Rd, South West Rocks. Mon-Fri 8-4pm, Sat 8-12pm.

hero media

Where to eat, sleep and visit on Grand Pacific Drive, and beyond

    Kassia ByrnesBy Kassia Byrnes
    The ultimate road trip begins and ends on NSW’s stunning Grand Pacific Drive.

    Whales, charming villages, fine wine and stunning natural vistas: there’s a lot to love about a road trip along the Grand Pacific Drive in New South Wales. Winding from the Royal National Park through Wollongong, Shellharbour, Kiama and Shoalhaven before heading inland to the Southern Highlands, this scenic drive makes for an unforgettable road trip.

    But like all great road trips, it’s not just about the drive but the stops made along the way. From incredible farm-to-plate (and grape-to-glass) dining options to unbeatable natural vistas and quaint towns with beautiful accommodation, there’s plenty to explore en route.

    Shellharbour Marina
    Spend time in Shellharbour Marina.

    Where to eat

    What is a road trip without incredible food? Whether you’re after fresh seafood, slow-cooked paddock-to-plate feasts or delicious wines, you’ll find something around every bend along Grand Pacific Drive.

    Restaurant Santino is a local Wollongong secret we can’t keep quiet any longer. With a fresh take on Italian cuisine, servings are hearty and flavours are comforting. The chitarra with blue swimmer crab, garlic, chilli, parsley and crustacean oil is a crowd favourite.

    Keep it local in Shellharbour with a menu all about fresh local produce at Relish on Addison . From South Coast oysters and blue swimmer crab linguine to crispy pork belly, surf and turf takes on an elevated meaning here.

    Kiama’s neighbourhood wine and cocktail bar, Little Betty’s , is just as good for a tasty share plate as it is for creative cocktails. The signature Grilled Octopus with burnt honey, garlic confit and sautéed Asian greens is worth a trip on its own.

    Only the best will do in Shoalhaven, where multi-award-winning Bangalay Dining uses native Australian ingredients to bring its dishes to life. Start with the Smoked trout croquette before moving on to the sautéed potato gnocchi. Don’t forget the white chocolate mousse for dessert.

    Meanwhile, the Southern Highlands are full of culinary highlights. From dining on incredibly fresh, local fare (we’re talking ingredients plucked from the team’s on-site kitchen garden or sourced through local producers) at Eschalot Restaurant in Berrima to creating gin blends at Millsheds Distillery .

    bangalay dining shoalhaven
    Taste native flavours at Bangalay Dining.

    Exploring nature

    Scenery is everything when hitting the road, and Grand Pacific Drive serves it up in spades. Drivers don’t even have to leave the car to enjoy the iconic ocean views from Seacliff Bridge (but several lookouts make it easy to stop).

    Seaside Kiama boasts stunning beaches and famous blowholes. But travellers can also swap ocean for rainforest when taking the Minnamurra Rainforest walk, culminating in a picturesque waterfall. Or soar overhead at Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures .

    The scenic coastal drive along Sea Cliff Bridge, Clifton.
    Cruise along the stunning Grand Pacific Drive.

    Between May and November, 30,000 whales make their way passed the South Coast between May and November. Spot them from the coastal shores or join a whale-watching cruise from Shellharbour Marina or Jervis Bay. Dive in with Woebegone Freedive .

    Shellharbour’s Killalea Regional Park is home to a traditional bush tucker and medicine walk with Aboriginal tour group, Gumaraa . Learn Indigenous healing practices and gain a deeper appreciation for the rich heritage and wisdom of the land’s Traditional Owners.

    Wollongong is the perfect place for hikers, with the 6.5-kilometre Wodi Wodi track serving up views, settler history and a variety of landscapes in one loop. If you prefer, skip the walk and pull up at Bald Hill Lookout for expansive views south towards Wollongong (and a hang-glider or two).

    For something truly unique, join the Highland Cow experience at The Swallow’s Nest in the Southern Highlands. In a brand-new offering, get a taste of farm life and help groom and feed these gorgeous creatures.

    kiama coast walk people with dog
    Wander the Kiama Coast Walk.

    Unique experiences

    No need to choose between an adrenaline rush or a culture fix, Grand Pacific Drive serves up both.

    Soar into aviation history at Shellharbour’s HARS Aviation Museum .  Tour the museum, then join a guided walk onto the wing of the record-breaking Qantas Boeing 747 and see the significant historic aircraft up close.

    If ever there was a place to skydive, it’s in Wollongong. Dive from 15,000 feet (tandem, of course) with Sky Dive Wollongong and see the coastal beauty of this region from above.

    Shoalhaven’s Bundanon Art Museum has to be one of the most unique offerings in the country. The legacy of artist Arthur Boyd and more than just a gallery, find eco-accommodation, fine dining, award-winning architecture and community here.

    Kiama’s Crooked River Estate is about more than just delicious wine.  Grab a picnic blanket and enjoy casual food and drinks with live music at Kick Back Fridays , every week.

    Between June and August, the Southern Highlands’ Robertson attracts novice truffle hunters. Join the hunt at family-owned and operated Robertson Truffles (alternatively, you can order truffle treats online, if your sense of adventure isn’t up for it).

    Freshly dug truffles at Terra Preta Truffles, Braidwood.
    Discover hidden gems beneath the soil in the Southern Highlands. (Image: Destination NSW)

    Where to stay

    Road trips are the ultimate promotion for slow travel, encouraging visitors to take their time, enjoy the journey and stop along the way to really immerse themselves in local towns.

    Find history and elegance at Berida Hotel in the Southern Highlands. Intimately set amongst gardens, but still close to the main street of Bowral, this 1920s private residence turned boutique hotel is the perfect stay.

    Stay in one of Barranca’s private villas with views of rolling farmland overlooking the dramatic escarpment at Kangaroo Valley or be surrounded by native bushland (a short walk from the beach) in Jervis Bay.

    Speaking of beachside escapes, Headlands Hotel Austinmer Beach delivers unrivalled access to Wollongong’s beaches. These serviced apartments enjoy coastal views from spacious balconies.

    For something completely different again, check in at Cicada Luxury Camping . Stay in safari-style or large bell tents, each with a private fire pit and top-notch kitchen facilities. Outside, enjoy spectacular countryside views.

    Cicada Luxury Camping
    Unwind at Cicada Luxury Camping. (Image: DNSW)

    Discover more and plan your ultimate road trip along the Grand Pacific Drive and beyond at grandpacificdrive.com.au/grand.