Where to find the best oysters in Port Macquarie

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In search of that slippery, suckery, erotic delicacy? Here is how to gets well and truly shucked at Port Macquarie on the NSW mid-north coast.

Let’s not beat about the bush. Oysters are one of the world’s ugliest foods. Despite their decidedly icky looks, however, they have long been the stuff of legend, myth and desire.

 

Aphrodite herself, Greek goddess of love, emerged from the sea on an oyster shell, giving birth to the word “aphrodisiac" – which has been closely linked with the briny bivalve ever since. Roman emperors apparently liked them so much they paid for them by their weight in gold, sending thousands of slaves to the shores of the English Channel to gather the marvellous molluscs. Casanova was rumoured to have eaten at least 50 off the breasts of his mistress every morning.

 

You either love them or hate them. If you love them, head to Port Macquarie on the NSW mid-north coast, where a string of oyster farmers have opened up their doors to oyster lovers who know that fresh from the farm is best.

Wallis Lake

Barclays Oyster Farm, the southern hemisphere’s largest producer of Sydney rock oysters, is at Forster, around 300km north of Sydney.

 

With a dozen freshly shucked oysters going for a song, stock up, find yourself a shady spot beside the water and gorge yourself with platefuls of briny molluscs doused in fresh lemon as you spend an hour or two paddling in the shallows of the Great Lakes – which are actually three great lakes – Myall, Smiths and Wallis – with a series of interconnecting waterways.

 

Barclay Oysters // Corner Mark & Little St, Forster. Open Mon-Fri 6.30-5pm; Sat 10-5pm.

Lansdowne River

Stones Oyster Farm is an hour up the road at Coopernook, on the banks of the Lansdowne River, which in turn feeds into the Manning River, the only river in Australia to have two entrances to the sea.

 

Entrance No.1 is at Old Bar, just one of a string of close-to-deserted beaches that stretch along the coast near Taree. Life here is pretty laidback, particularly during the Old Bar Festival each October long weekend when the seaside hamlet becomes the venue for the world record attempt for the largest gathering of kombi vans.

 

Entrance No.2 is at Manning Point about 10km north as the crow flies, but 40km by road. Strung out along the riverbank is the seaside village of Harrington, home to a fabulous waterfront pub bistro that gets packed on weekends, and a breakwall that’s perennially lined with hopeful anglers of all ages.

 

Take a walk along the river’s edge and check out the colourfully painted bollards that depict local figures from the village’s past, then drive out to Crowdy Head for endless views of the coastline from the lookout near the blue and white lighthouse.

 

Stone’s Oysters & Seafoods // 479 Harrington Rd, Coopernook. Open daily 8am-5pm.

Camden Haven River

The next big river to spill into the sea is the wide and sluggish Camden Haven, an easy 30min drive north. Here, half-hidden by mangroves beneath the North Haven Bridge at Laurieton, you’ll find Armstrongs Oyster Shed.

 

Brandon Armstrong, whose Dad’s been growing oysters here for more than 40 years, explains that they’ve only opened up the farm to the public in the past 12 months. While there are plans for a fancy tasting room, at the moment it’s a rough and ready experience as you pick your way among the litter of oyster shells, dodging big burly blokes in gumboots wielding short sharp knives.

 

You can, like most people, slurp your freshly shucked oysters straight from the shell while standing at the tiny counter in amongst the machinery, or take a tray and a handful or two of fresh prawns up to the lookout at nearby North Brother Mountain, or down to the picnic tables under the casuarinas at Dunbogan Beach, or eat while you wander along the river walk that leads to North Haven Beach.

 

Armstrong Oysters // Lot 1 Short St, Laurieton. Open Mon-Fri 7am-4pm, weekends 9am-3pm.

Hastings River

Follow the coast road for 30km to Port Macquarie, stopping along the way to pick up a bottle of local wine at one of the area’s five local wineries (tip: the 2005 Semillon from Innes Lake Vineyard on the outskirts of Port Macquarie is perfect with oysters) and snag yourself a table on the floating pontoon beside the “big oyster" shed on the Hastings River. Thankfully, the only big oyster you’ll see is on your plate – the “real" fibreglass and concrete big oyster is back down the highway at Taree.

 

They’ve been growing oysters in Hastings since the 1870s, and there are currently around 30 farmers on the river, although the only place you can buy direct from the farmer is here at the Big Oyster. It’s a magic spot for sitting out over the water and watching the pelicans glide by.

 

The Big Oyster // Hastings River Drive, Port Macquarie. Mon-Fri 10-5pm, w/ends 10-4pm.

Macleay River

It’s a bumpy, dusty drive beside the Macleay River just south of South West Rocks (home to Smoky Cape Lighthouse and a prison with a killer view, Trial Bay Gaol) to get to the big blue shed at Rainbow Reach, with potholes so deep you could fish in them – but the drive is worth it. John Elford’s oysters explode in your mouth, salty and creamy, with a lingering mineral aftertaste.

 

He’s been oyster farming here for a dozen years, is passionate about his product and the river he works and lives by, and reckons he wouldn’t want to do anything else. “I get up early in the morning and take the boat out on the river when it’s as flat as a tack," he says. “That’s my office. How can you beat that?"

 

Rainbow Reach Oysters // Rainbow Reach Rd, South West Rocks. Mon-Fri 8-4pm, Sat 8-12pm.

8 insider experiences to discover the offbeat in Newcastle

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Discover vibrant culture and creativity, gorgeous nature spots and more in lively Newcastle.

Newcastle/Muloobinba has a lot going for it beyond its big skies and beautiful beaches. The city’s creative types are now heading downtown, taking over and transforming warehouses and terraces to offer a more alternative vibe. From its nightlife to secret swimming spots, art to architecture, here’s our insider’s guide to Newcastle in New South Wales.

1. Learn to sail on Newcastle Harbour

The harbour has always shaped Newcastle, so it seems like the most obvious place to start your weekend. Newcastle Cruising Yacht Club offers a range of programs that provide instruction for both novice and experienced sailors. This is an inspired classroom that sets off past the Honeysuckle Foreshore up the Hunter River, with views towards a seemingly infinite vista of blue stretching to the horizon. It’s the perfect way to savour your time by the sea. Other water activities include surfing, swimming in one of the secret ocean baths or whale-watching with CoastXP .

Aerial view of Newcastle Harbour.
Join Newcastle Cruising Yacht Club’s programs. (Image: City of Newcastle)

2. Underground jazz scene

Follow the lively sound of the saxophone bubbling up to find The Underground . The popular basement-level bar, with its dim lighting and speakeasy aesthetic, schedules live jazz performances every Tuesday and Thursday. Newcastle is known around the country for supporting live music and this late-night New York-style jazz bar is, like the city itself, both approachable and sophisticated. For fans of live music, Queen’s Wharf Hotel , King Street Newcastle , Mad Poet and The Lucky Hotel are all popular pubs for their roster of live music.

 

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3. The city as a canvas   

The streets of Newcastle present like an outdoor art gallery , adding beauty to the everyday with large-scale works by artists such as Fintan Magee, Inari Meyers, Tom Henderson and Sophia Flegg. Hire a Flash E-bike and pedal around the streets to find treasures such as Bronte Naylor’s Mirror Ocean in Civic Square or Sky & Ocean at South Newcastle Beach Skate Park. You can also join Newy Tour Co.’s Discover Newcastle tour to explore city highlights, architectural gems and street art with an expert guide.

Friends take in Newcastle Street Art.
Admire stunning works of art displayed all around you. (Image: Destination NSW)

4. An artist’s view of Newcastle

There’s a real sense of optimism around Newcastle, stemming from its many grassroots art galleries and organisations. The city is home to an eclectic array of artists who gravitate toward different mediums; see their works on show at independent galleries such as The Lock-Up , which operated as a police station from 1861 until 1982, and Lighthouse Arts Newcastle in the light-filled cottages on Nobbys Head/Whibayganba. Stop by The Creator Incubator to see the Little and Big gallery spaces. Newcastle Art Gallery will soon reopen after a recent expansion, so keep an eye out.

5. Newcastle after dark

The small bars confetti’d around Newcastle are a sign of the times. Visitors to the compact city will find a concentration of bars within a small radius, all of which are within easy walking distance or accessible via the light rail. The after-dark experience, which includes theatre and live music, is designed for visitors who are in search of the offbeat and want to celebrate the city’s creativity.  Whether you’re visiting for business or pleasure, the bars that dot most neighbourhoods will tempt you with everything from happy hour to their alt attitude. 

A bartender expertly crafting a drink, with a stunning library of spirits in the background.
Enjoy a night out at a lively bar. (Image: City of Newcastle)

6. Indulge in great gastronomy

Newcastle’s proximity to the Hunter Valley has helped establish it as a sophisticated getaway for gourmands with a passion for provenance. Dining options in the city are diverse, with everything from casual cafes to cantina-style Mexican eateries such as Antojitos , through to fine diners such as Flotilla and Jana Restaurant & Bar at QT Newcastle . Visit during Newcastle Food Month  to get a snapshot of the local culinary scene – you can take note of the many world-class restaurants and cafes that warrant a return visit. Humbug , Peregrin and Bistro Penny should also be on your radar.

The dining area at Flotilla in Newcastle NSW.
Savour a world-class dining experience at Flotilla. (Image: Flotilla)

7. Crystalbrook Kingsley

Crystalbrook Kingsley is another great example of Newcastle’s new wow factor.  Staying at the hotel – in the heart of the cultural centre – makes exploring a breeze, with vintage bikes for guests who want to check out the city streets on two wheels. The design-savvy Crystalbrook Collection reimagined the Roundhouse building while adhering to its ethos of sustainable luxury. The hotel is also a magnet for foodies, with the rooftop Roundhouse restaurant and cocktail bar, Romberg’s, two of the best spots in the city for wining and dining.

The Roundhouse by Crystalbrook Collection.
Step into the reworked Roundhouse by Crystalbrook. (Image: Crystalbrook Kingsley)

8. Newcastle’s creative side on show

Save the date for New Annual , a festival of art, music and ideas from 26 September – 5 October. The program is jam-packed with 10 days of art, culture and creativity. This year’s festival will celebrate the power art has to connect people. Expect to see a diverse program including music, theatre, workshops, and performances in iconic Newcastle locations. Visitors will find a concentration of events within a small radius, all of which are within easy walking distance or accessible via the light rail.

Dancers performing gracefully, accompanied by a live orchestra.
Celebrate migration, community and belonging at New Annual.

Plan your next trip to offbeat Newcastle.