Where to find the best oysters in Port Macquarie

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In search of that slippery, suckery, erotic delicacy? Here is how to gets well and truly shucked at Port Macquarie on the NSW mid-north coast.

Let’s not beat about the bush. Oysters are one of the world’s ugliest foods. Despite their decidedly icky looks, however, they have long been the stuff of legend, myth and desire.

 

Aphrodite herself, Greek goddess of love, emerged from the sea on an oyster shell, giving birth to the word “aphrodisiac" – which has been closely linked with the briny bivalve ever since. Roman emperors apparently liked them so much they paid for them by their weight in gold, sending thousands of slaves to the shores of the English Channel to gather the marvellous molluscs. Casanova was rumoured to have eaten at least 50 off the breasts of his mistress every morning.

 

You either love them or hate them. If you love them, head to Port Macquarie on the NSW mid-north coast, where a string of oyster farmers have opened up their doors to oyster lovers who know that fresh from the farm is best.

Wallis Lake

Barclays Oyster Farm, the southern hemisphere’s largest producer of Sydney rock oysters, is at Forster, around 300km north of Sydney.

 

With a dozen freshly shucked oysters going for a song, stock up, find yourself a shady spot beside the water and gorge yourself with platefuls of briny molluscs doused in fresh lemon as you spend an hour or two paddling in the shallows of the Great Lakes – which are actually three great lakes – Myall, Smiths and Wallis – with a series of interconnecting waterways.

 

Barclay Oysters // Corner Mark & Little St, Forster. Open Mon-Fri 6.30-5pm; Sat 10-5pm.

Lansdowne River

Stones Oyster Farm is an hour up the road at Coopernook, on the banks of the Lansdowne River, which in turn feeds into the Manning River, the only river in Australia to have two entrances to the sea.

 

Entrance No.1 is at Old Bar, just one of a string of close-to-deserted beaches that stretch along the coast near Taree. Life here is pretty laidback, particularly during the Old Bar Festival each October long weekend when the seaside hamlet becomes the venue for the world record attempt for the largest gathering of kombi vans.

 

Entrance No.2 is at Manning Point about 10km north as the crow flies, but 40km by road. Strung out along the riverbank is the seaside village of Harrington, home to a fabulous waterfront pub bistro that gets packed on weekends, and a breakwall that’s perennially lined with hopeful anglers of all ages.

 

Take a walk along the river’s edge and check out the colourfully painted bollards that depict local figures from the village’s past, then drive out to Crowdy Head for endless views of the coastline from the lookout near the blue and white lighthouse.

 

Stone’s Oysters & Seafoods // 479 Harrington Rd, Coopernook. Open daily 8am-5pm.

Camden Haven River

The next big river to spill into the sea is the wide and sluggish Camden Haven, an easy 30min drive north. Here, half-hidden by mangroves beneath the North Haven Bridge at Laurieton, you’ll find Armstrongs Oyster Shed.

 

Brandon Armstrong, whose Dad’s been growing oysters here for more than 40 years, explains that they’ve only opened up the farm to the public in the past 12 months. While there are plans for a fancy tasting room, at the moment it’s a rough and ready experience as you pick your way among the litter of oyster shells, dodging big burly blokes in gumboots wielding short sharp knives.

 

You can, like most people, slurp your freshly shucked oysters straight from the shell while standing at the tiny counter in amongst the machinery, or take a tray and a handful or two of fresh prawns up to the lookout at nearby North Brother Mountain, or down to the picnic tables under the casuarinas at Dunbogan Beach, or eat while you wander along the river walk that leads to North Haven Beach.

 

Armstrong Oysters // Lot 1 Short St, Laurieton. Open Mon-Fri 7am-4pm, weekends 9am-3pm.

Hastings River

Follow the coast road for 30km to Port Macquarie, stopping along the way to pick up a bottle of local wine at one of the area’s five local wineries (tip: the 2005 Semillon from Innes Lake Vineyard on the outskirts of Port Macquarie is perfect with oysters) and snag yourself a table on the floating pontoon beside the “big oyster" shed on the Hastings River. Thankfully, the only big oyster you’ll see is on your plate – the “real" fibreglass and concrete big oyster is back down the highway at Taree.

 

They’ve been growing oysters in Hastings since the 1870s, and there are currently around 30 farmers on the river, although the only place you can buy direct from the farmer is here at the Big Oyster. It’s a magic spot for sitting out over the water and watching the pelicans glide by.

 

The Big Oyster // Hastings River Drive, Port Macquarie. Mon-Fri 10-5pm, w/ends 10-4pm.

Macleay River

It’s a bumpy, dusty drive beside the Macleay River just south of South West Rocks (home to Smoky Cape Lighthouse and a prison with a killer view, Trial Bay Gaol) to get to the big blue shed at Rainbow Reach, with potholes so deep you could fish in them – but the drive is worth it. John Elford’s oysters explode in your mouth, salty and creamy, with a lingering mineral aftertaste.

 

He’s been oyster farming here for a dozen years, is passionate about his product and the river he works and lives by, and reckons he wouldn’t want to do anything else. “I get up early in the morning and take the boat out on the river when it’s as flat as a tack," he says. “That’s my office. How can you beat that?"

 

Rainbow Reach Oysters // Rainbow Reach Rd, South West Rocks. Mon-Fri 8-4pm, Sat 8-12pm.

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Why winter is the best time to be on the New South Wales coast

NSW’s beach towns take on a new kind of magic when the cooler months hit.

Autumn and winter cast a whole new light on the New South Wales coastline. The sun hangs lower, the shadows stretch longer and the air is crisp and fresh. The frenetic summer crowds are gone, and the rhythm slows to the pace of a leisurely winter bush walk through still, damp quiet. From wineries pouring winter reds to the annual whale migration up the ‘humpback highway’, here’s why winter on the New South Wales coast is better.

Winter on the NSW South Coast

Winter down south means misty dawns, sipping a flat white on the beach. The thrill of a whale spotting from the headlands and evenings spent slowly savouring Shoalhaven’s wines by the fire.

Start in Kiama, where waves crash into the famous Blowholes. This natural spectacle is achieved when underground pressure and swell unite, sending sea spray soaring above the basalt cliffs. This means, due to larger waves, you’re even more likely to see an explosive display in winter.

two people standing in front of kiama blowhole
See Kiama’s blowholes in full force. (Image: Destination NSW)

Inland, the Minnamurra Rainforest Walk in Budderoo National Park is all subtropical forest and trilling lyrebird song. Make sure to walk silently along the elevated boardwalks, past winter-swelled creeks and the tangled roots of fig trees. You might just hear one of the musically talented birds mimicking your footsteps.

Feeling adventurous? Book a session at Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures for a wobbly walk through the canopy on Australia’s highest zipline.

Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures on the new south wales south coast
Walk among the tallest trees. (Image: Destination NSW)

Next, it’s time to take the speed down a notch with a drive over to the historic village of Berry. It’s been a beloved stop for generations of Sydneysiders heading south, as has the obligatory stop at its famous doughnut van for crisped, cinnamon goodness. If you’re ready for something a little more chunky, stroll right past the boutiques (okay, go on, just one quick peek) to Milkwood Bakery . Their flaky pastries and all-day breakfasts are best enjoyed under cream-coloured fringed umbrellas.

Back in Kiama, you’ll also find modern Middle Eastern share plates at Miss Arda , and next-level burgers on The Hungry Monkey ‘s extensive menu: an ode to everything pattie-shaped.

End the day at The Sebel Kiama on the harbour. The apartment-style rooms come with full cooking facilities — a welcome addition for families looking to test out the local produce they picked up along the way. Including, but not limited to, vintages from nearby Crooked River Wines .

The Sebel Kiama exterior
Sleep by the harbour.

Winter on the Mid-North Coast

A trip up north is a gentle one at this time of year. You’ll still feel that sunshine warming your shoulders, but the lower temperatures make space for rainforest walks, vineyard lunches and long coastal hikes. All without that pesky humidity.

First stop? It has to be the town of Port Macquarie. Start by marking out a stretch of the nine-kilometre coastal walk you want to tackle (or do the whole thing), which winds from Town Beach to the lighthouse along rugged headlands and quiet beaches. Hot tip: binoculars. Don’t forget them if you want to partake in some close-up sightings of dolphin pods or whales migrating up the ‘humpback highway’.

Port Macquarie Coastal Walk, winter on the New South Wales coast
Wander the Port Macquarie Coastal Walk. (Image: Destination NSW)

Swap sea for canopy at the Sea Acres Rainforest Boardwalk , one of the last remaining pockets of coastal rainforest in the state. The accessible elevated trail passes under climbing ferns and tangled strangler figs, and is alive with scarlet robins, goannas and diamond pythons – if you’re lucky, you might see one slipping through the leaf litter.

Afterwards, lunch is sorted at Cassegrain Wines , where crisp whites and elegant reds are grown using a blend of French winemaking tradition and Australian innovation. After a tasting, saddle up for a horse ride through the estate.

port macquarie koala hospital
Meet Koala Hospital inhabitants at their temporary home. (Image: Destination NSW)

The beloved Koala Hospital is rebuilding, so meet its furry patients in their temporary bushland abode at Guulabaa – Place of Koala . Here, you can see rehabilitation up close and learn how one of Australia’s most iconic animals is being carefully rewilded and protected.

Back in town, Whalebone Wharf  serves up fine dining with serious views to go with your oysters. Prefer something breezier? Bills Fishhouse + Bar does everything from blue swimmer crab toast to zucchini noodles drizzled in basil and wattleseed pesto. Down by the waterfront, Little Shack slings ceviche, mushroom burgers and fish tacos with casual aplomb.

At the end of it all, check in to Mercure Centro Port Macquarie , right in the heart of town. From here, everything’s walkable. Just park the car, pop your keys in your pocket, and stroll down to the beach.

bed at Mercure Centro Port Macquarie
Check in to Mercure Centro Port Macquarie.

Winter on the Central Coast

On the Central Coast, expect to explore oyster farms that sit on estuaries, beaches that stretch empty for miles, and the kind of surprise sightings of whale sprays that can stop a hiker in their tracks.

The best way to settle into this slower rhythm is with the Bouddi Coastal Walk , an 8.5km trail that dips through rainforest and eroding cliffs. It’s made for unhurried walkers and long-lens photographers.

Up the coast in Terrigal, it’s prime time to spot humpbacks on the move. Join a cruise or find your own perch — Crackneck Lookout and Norah Head Lighthouse are both local favourites.

a humpback whale breaching on the central coast
Spot migrating humpback whales. (Image: Destination NSW)

Travelling with kids? It would be sacrilege not to visit the Australian Reptile Park . Here, Elvis the saltwater crocodile reigns supreme, and the venomous snake talk somehow manages to be simultaneously terrifying and fascinating.

If that isn’t enough to wear them out, zip and climb your way through Treetops Adventure Central Coast , a ropes course in the canopy of Ourimbah State Forest. Afterwards, steady your nerves with a garden tasting at Firescreek Botanical Winery , where fruit- and flower-infused wines are served under the trees.

Switch earth for sea and hop on a boat tour with Broken Bay Pearl Farm . Once you’re out on the water, you’ll learn how pearls are cultivated and have a hands-on lesson in grading and shucking.

woman holding a pearl at Broken Bay Pearl Farm
Get a hands-on pearl lesson. (Image: Destination NSW)

As the day winds down, grab a seat at Yellowtail in Terrigal , which takes seasonal native produce and presents it with Asian flair. Prefer something simple? Award-winning Mount White restaurant Saddles is a quintessential Australian dining destination. Find an impressive breakfast and lunch menu, dedicated to country-style cooking and seasonal produce.

Stay the night at Pullman Magenta Shores , between the ocean and the lake. There are plenty of ways to relax, with a massage at the day spa, a poolside beanbag and a round or two at the golf course.

restaurant at Pullman Magenta Shores central coast
Eat well at Pullman Magenta Shores’ restaurant. (Image: Destination NSW)

Winter in Wollongong

Wollongong does contrast pretty well. One moment you’re walking beneath an enormous Buddha, the next you’re ordering soju a few blocks from the surf. It’s a town where skydivers land on beaches, trails lead to paddocks and winter days stretch long and clear beneath the Illawarra cliffs.

If you’re coming from the north, start by crossing over the Sea Cliff Bridge. Curving dramatically out like a jutting ‘C’ out above the water means you won’t be able to resist pulling over (safely, in designated lookouts) to gaze down at the waves crashing on the cliffs below.

Just inland is the serenity of the Nan Tien Temple , the largest Buddhist temple in the Southern Hemisphere. You can trace the prayer path, explore the temple gardens and sip delectable Kam Quat Tea in the quiet light at the Dew Drop Inn Tea House.

monk teaching tai chi at Nan Tien Temple
Learn about Buddhist practices. (Image: Destination NSW)

Next, dust off that cowboy hat. It’s time for the Darkes Forest Riding Ranch . Take a guided canter via trail rides among peppermint gums and paddocks. If you’re happier to look at animals than ride them, Symbio Wildlife Park has red pandas dozing in trees, kangaroos that hop up to you and lessons on conservation.

The brave among you shouldn’t miss Skydive Australia – Wollongong . A free fall over the coast via tandem jumps before tumbling down to the sand is a breath-stopping thrill. Prefer to keep your feet on the ground? Check out the program at Wollongong Art Gallery , which delivers contemporary and Aboriginal exhibitions in the centre of town.

monkey at Symbio Wildlife Park
Hang out with the locals at Symbio Wildlife Park.(Image: Destination NSW)

As evening settles in, nab a table at Baby Face Kitchen . It has an ever-changing set menu, with dishes like hand-picked mud crab with white asparagus and salty brown butter, to sheep’s milk and honey ice cream. For something more casual, Dagwood Bar + Kitchen brings the fun with Korean fried chicken, sake cocktails and weekly all-you-can-eat bao buns.

Check in to Novotel Wollongong Northbeach , right by the sand. With a beachfront pool and ocean views, it’s an ideal base for whatever pace you choose.

Novotel Wollongong Northbeach
Fall asleep listening to the waves.

Winter on the New South Wales coast starts with a cosy place to stay. Start planning your adventure at all.com.