The perfect Snowy Mountains road trip itinerary

You don’t need sugar on top to enjoy the sweet surrounds. The hidden villages and fantastic local produce make for the perfect Snowy Valleys Way road trip, writes Patrick Higgins. Photography by Elise Hassey

For a few months each year the Snowy Valley’s region of Australia, home to our most popular ski resorts and highest peaks, has to punch an extra notch in its belt to accommodate the bulge in population.

But as the dusting of white melts from peaks and the crowds swap snow boots for boardshorts and bikinis, what’s left could tempt even the most bronzed beach bum away from golden sands.

Rolling mountains of green, itching to be hiked and biked, are laced with streams and rivers filled to breaking point with meltwater and fish to lure keen anglers.

With an abundance of fresh produce ready for rumbling bellies, it’s time to buckle up for a journey to the Snowy Mountains… without the snow. Or the crowds.

Cosy room Moonbah Huts. (photo: Elise Hassey)

Day 1 – an afternoon in the orchards

From any city in Australia you can fly direct to the Snowy Mountains Airport, but for the full road-trip experience fly into Wagga Wagga (so nice they named it twice) and make your way down and around via two or four wheels to Gundagai, Batlow and Tumut.

With the mercury rising, melted snow has stuffed nature with goodness and the results are obvious as you head south to Batlow, taking in orchards of apple trees, stone fruits, berries and cherries. Via Batlow Road you’ll stumble across cute farmgate stores such as Mouat’s Farm and Wilgro Orchards with plump produce picked for your pleasure on display along with jams and preserves.

Apple picking kicks off in late February, and from December until early January you can pick your own cherries and berries, though the majority will find their way to mouths rather than back to the car. Batlow is also home to the famous Batlow Cider and Big Apple (no Aussie road trip is complete without a sighting of one of our many ‘big things’).

Stained fingers will steer you further down the road to Laurel Hill and the strikingly beautiful Sugar Pine Walk, which has become a very popular destination for couples to exchange rings.

Feel completely enchanted as you walk the 400-metre stretch across a bed of fallen pine needles through the natural cathedral of Native American Sugar Pine.

Planted in 1928, the grand pines have since grown in height and popularity, making this little turn-off before heading into Tumbarumba a must-see.

Fantastical landscape Tumut — Fantastical landscape just outside of Tumut. (Photo: Elise Hassey)

If you’re after a different perspective and a chance to break up the drive, book a scenic flight with a True North Heli Tours. Meet at Tumut Heliport for a Country Escape tour that includes a scenic flight through the the Snowy Valley and into Tumbarumba wineries for a wine tasting and three course lunch. The tour will end where it began, so you can jump back in the car and continue on the road.

If you’d rather skip the helicopter flight and continue on the road, stop in at Tumut River Brewing Co for a brewery tour and a bite to eat.

Day 2 – A flick and a pizza in Tumbarumba

You’ll need to fuel up for another day of wandering and, while in Tumbarumba, the pick of the litter is Nest Cafe and Cinema on Winton Street. This gem is straight out of a fairytale with book-lined shelves to ponder as you overindulge in blueberry pancakes with ice-cream and a side of coffee.

Owner Laura Fraumeni has also converted the back room into a cinema with Friday and Saturday evening flicks accompanied by a tempting pizza selection, the Original White is a favourite with crisp rosemary potatoes, prosciutto, parmesan and pesto.

From here roll the rubber round the bend for a short 10-minute drive to Courabyra Wines on Courabyra Road where brother-and-sister duo Cathy Gairn and Stephen Morrison have been blending together some mighty fine vino that even Sydney’s acclaimed restaurant Tetsuya’s has taken a liking to.

They offer private tours of the sub-alpine vineyard for scenery soaking and an insight into the region’s history finished off with a glass of bubbles on the balcony.

One winery just not enough? Johansen Wines should also be on your pit stop list.

It’s hard to leave such dolce vita, but the next leg of the trip is worth it – the landscapes that continuously unfold before you as you traverse along Tooma Road and then onto the Alpine Way towards Jindabyne are nothing short of spectacular.

The area is perhaps even more stunning without the snow-covered peaks, as buxom hills of varying shades of green force drivers to the roadside, smartphones in hand. Google maps estimates a three-hour drive, but allow for extra photo-taking time.

idyllic lake setting of Moonbah Huts — The idyllic setting of Moonbah Huts. (Photo: Elise Hassey)

Day 3 – your very own alpine hut

Moonbah Huts owner Brett Smith has taken the term ‘handmade’ to another level with his stunning cottages nestled neatly on the outskirts of Jindabyne.

The two stone huts, located on the banks of the Moonbah River, were built by Brett over a 10-year period from rocks pulled from the mountains that dwarf these idyllic dwellings.

Both huts sleep four and have an open fireplace perfect for post Mt Kosciuszko-climb tea-sipping, or the balcony rocking chair might take your fancy. Brett also caters for the keen angler with fly-fishing lessons in prime rainbow trout territory.

With the Kosciuszko National Park ready for wandering, head out of Jindabyne and follow the signs to Thredbo where the main chair lift stays open during the warmer months to take explorers and keen mountain bikers up to Australia’s highest peak at 2228 metres above sea level. Fingers crossed the weather is kind as cloud cover can sometimes spoil the breathtaking view out over the national park.

Heading back, make sure you pull into the Wild Brumby distillery just off Alpine Way to sample some of Brad and Monika Spalding’s schnapps range that will help wash down the veal schnitzel or bratwurst you’ve just inhaled.

They also do daily tastings and bottles are on hand for you to fill the car boot before you leave.

Period features at Yarrangobilly Caves House. (Photo: Elise Hassey)

Day 4 – breakfasting in Jindabyne

Today you only need three words: Parc baked beans. This dish will have you nose deep in porcelain and asking for seconds as the crispy chorizo and poached eggs fuel a weary traveller’s appetite.

Parc cafe in the heart of Jindabyne is a must-stop for breaky before any activity, as the coffee holds a candle to Sydney and Melbourne cafes while dishes will leave you with a satisfied grin. For the sweet tooth, the waffles are worth a dig.

To keep your sugar-high going head out to Leesville Estate and the Snowy Mountain Cookies factory to be greeted by the infectious smile of owner Nolen Oayda and the aroma of fresh-baked cookies. The factory is a window into the growing company’s production and fills local kids with anticipation come school holidays.

A trip into Jindabyne wouldn’t be complete without a quick stop into the Banjo Paterson Inn for a schooner (or two, if you’re not driving) of Kosciuszko Pale Ale. ‘Koszy’ as it’s affectionately known around these parts, is micro-brewed on site by Chuck Hahn, of the famous Hahn brewing name, and close friend and business partner Richard Burton.

The taps at the inn are fed directly from the stills below – on display through glass windows – with frothy pours ready for patrons to rehydrate.

Vines and fresh Batlow apples at Courabyra Wines — Fresh Batlow apples in the orchard at Batlow. (photo: Elise Hassey)

Day 5 – caverns and wild horses

The Snowy Mountains Highway will lead you north out of town and towards the Yarrangobilly Caves. Much like the trek into Jindabyne, the scenery that accompanies you on your journey north is worth taking a little extra time to savour.

The five hauntingly beautiful caves that make up the Yarrangobilly network are getting a little long in the tooth – 440-million years long. The limestone caverns are decorated with stalagmites and stalactites and can be explored on a daily tour.

You should also take yourself on a self-guided tour of the river walk to experience the thermal pool, which is naturally warmed to a balmy 27°C from an underground hot spring. Stroll along the tranquil riverbank before taking in the gaping South Glory cave – the largest of the five.

As you drive out of Yarrangobilly Caves Road and back onto Snowy Mountains Highway, make a detour onto Long Plain Road a few hundred metres north on your right-hand side – this dusty track leads into wild Brumby territory, so drive with caution and keep an eye out for piles of manure as you creep along hoping to glimpse the majestic creatures.

The Swiss-like countryside greets you as you make your way towards Tumut, taking in the grand rivers and sweeping bends. Fond memories linger of the past few days, and you’ll realise that the Snowy Mountains, without snow, are truly captivating.

Kosciuszko Brewing Company micro brewery Banjo Paterson Inn — The Kosciuszko Brewing Company micro brewery at Banjo Paterson Inn. (Photo: Elise Hassey)

The details: Snowy Mountains

Get there: Rex and Qantas fly to Wagga Wagga daily. Avis, Budget and Country Car Hire are available at the airport; you’ll need at least five days to take in the same path, but a few extra days will allow for time to savour it all.

Stay there: You’ll find a range of deals at visitnsw.com and links to accommodation. Rates range from $195–$350 per night for the Lake Hut and $295–$495 per night for the River Hut at Moonbah Huts depending on the season and the number of guests. Creel Lodge in Jindabyne and Yarrangobilly Caves House are two other great options, which are available to book through nationalparks.nsw.gov.au with prices on application.

Play there: The snow season ends around September, but has been know to filter into October on rare occasions – the picking seasons operate December through until May. Mouat Farm and Wilgro Orchards are great places to stop and fill your basket with goodies.

Stop at Nest cafe for the blueberry pancakes alone. (Photo: Elise Hassey)

NSW’s beach towns take on a new kind of magic when the cooler months hit.

Autumn and winter cast a whole new light on the New South Wales coastline. The sun hangs lower, the shadows stretch longer and the air is crisp and fresh. The frenetic summer crowds are gone, and the rhythm slows to the pace of a leisurely winter bush walk through still, damp quiet. From wineries pouring winter reds to the annual whale migration up the ‘humpback highway’, here’s why winter on the New South Wales coast is better.

Winter on the NSW South Coast

Winter down south means misty dawns, sipping a flat white on the beach. The thrill of a whale spotting from the headlands and evenings spent slowly savouring Shoalhaven’s wines by the fire.

Start in Kiama, where waves crash into the famous Blowholes. This natural spectacle is achieved when underground pressure and swell unite, sending sea spray soaring above the basalt cliffs. This means, due to larger waves, you’re even more likely to see an explosive display in winter.

two people standing in front of kiama blowhole — See Kiama’s blowholes in full force. (Image: Destination NSW)

Inland, the Minnamurra Rainforest Walk in Budderoo National Park is all subtropical forest and trilling lyrebird song. Make sure to walk silently along the elevated boardwalks, past winter-swelled creeks and the tangled roots of fig trees. You might just hear one of the musically talented birds mimicking your footsteps.

Feeling adventurous? Book a session at Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures for a wobbly walk through the canopy on Australia’s highest zipline.

Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures on the new south wales south coast — Walk among the tallest trees. (Image: Destination NSW)

Next, it’s time to take the speed down a notch with a drive over to the historic village of Berry. It’s been a beloved stop for generations of Sydneysiders heading south, as has the obligatory stop at its famous doughnut van for crisped, cinnamon goodness. If you’re ready for something a little more chunky, stroll right past the boutiques (okay, go on, just one quick peek) to Milkwood Bakery . Their flaky pastries and all-day breakfasts are best enjoyed under cream-coloured fringed umbrellas.

Back in Kiama, you’ll also find modern Middle Eastern share plates at Miss Arda , and next-level burgers on The Hungry Monkey ‘s extensive menu: an ode to everything pattie-shaped.

End the day at The Sebel Kiama on the harbour. The apartment-style rooms come with full cooking facilities — a welcome addition for families looking to test out the local produce they picked up along the way. Including, but not limited to, vintages from nearby Crooked River Wines .

The Sebel Kiama exterior — Sleep by the harbour.

Winter on the Mid-North Coast

A trip up north is a gentle one at this time of year. You’ll still feel that sunshine warming your shoulders, but the lower temperatures make space for rainforest walks, vineyard lunches and long coastal hikes. All without that pesky humidity.

First stop? It has to be the town of Port Macquarie. Start by marking out a stretch of the nine-kilometre coastal walk you want to tackle (or do the whole thing), which winds from Town Beach to the lighthouse along rugged headlands and quiet beaches. Hot tip: binoculars. Don’t forget them if you want to partake in some close-up sightings of dolphin pods or whales migrating up the ‘humpback highway’.

Port Macquarie Coastal Walk, winter on the New South Wales coast — Wander the Port Macquarie Coastal Walk. (Image: Destination NSW)

Swap sea for canopy at the Sea Acres Rainforest Boardwalk , one of the last remaining pockets of coastal rainforest in the state. The accessible elevated trail passes under climbing ferns and tangled strangler figs, and is alive with scarlet robins, goannas and diamond pythons – if you’re lucky, you might see one slipping through the leaf litter.

Afterwards, lunch is sorted at Cassegrain Wines , where crisp whites and elegant reds are grown using a blend of French winemaking tradition and Australian innovation. After a tasting, saddle up for a horse ride through the estate.

port macquarie koala hospital — Meet Koala Hospital inhabitants at their temporary home. (Image: Destination NSW)

The beloved Koala Hospital is rebuilding, so meet its furry patients in their temporary bushland abode at Guulabaa – Place of Koala . Here, you can see rehabilitation up close and learn how one of Australia’s most iconic animals is being carefully rewilded and protected.

Back in town, Whalebone Wharf serves up fine dining with serious views to go with your oysters. Prefer something breezier? Bills Fishhouse + Bar does everything from blue swimmer crab toast to zucchini noodles drizzled in basil and wattleseed pesto. Down by the waterfront, Little Shack slings ceviche, mushroom burgers and fish tacos with casual aplomb.

At the end of it all, check in to Mercure Centro Port Macquarie , right in the heart of town. From here, everything’s walkable. Just park the car, pop your keys in your pocket, and stroll down to the beach.

bed at Mercure Centro Port Macquarie — Check in to Mercure Centro Port Macquarie.

Winter on the Central Coast

On the Central Coast, expect to explore oyster farms that sit on estuaries, beaches that stretch empty for miles, and the kind of surprise sightings of whale sprays that can stop a hiker in their tracks.

The best way to settle into this slower rhythm is with the Bouddi Coastal Walk , an 8.5km trail that dips through rainforest and eroding cliffs. It’s made for unhurried walkers and long-lens photographers.

Up the coast in Terrigal, it’s prime time to spot humpbacks on the move. Join a cruise or find your own perch — Crackneck Lookout and Norah Head Lighthouse are both local favourites.

a humpback whale breaching on the central coast — Spot migrating humpback whales. (Image: Destination NSW)

Travelling with kids? It would be sacrilege not to visit the Australian Reptile Park . Here, Elvis the saltwater crocodile reigns supreme, and the venomous snake talk somehow manages to be simultaneously terrifying and fascinating.

If that isn’t enough to wear them out, zip and climb your way through Treetops Adventure Central Coast , a ropes course in the canopy of Ourimbah State Forest. Afterwards, steady your nerves with a garden tasting at Firescreek Botanical Winery , where fruit- and flower-infused wines are served under the trees.

Switch earth for sea and hop on a boat tour with Broken Bay Pearl Farm . Once you’re out on the water, you’ll learn how pearls are cultivated and have a hands-on lesson in grading and shucking.

woman holding a pearl at Broken Bay Pearl Farm — Get a hands-on pearl lesson. (Image: Destination NSW)

As the day winds down, grab a seat at Yellowtail in Terrigal , which takes seasonal native produce and presents it with Asian flair. Prefer something simple? Award-winning Mount White restaurant Saddles is a quintessential Australian dining destination. Find an impressive breakfast and lunch menu, dedicated to country-style cooking and seasonal produce.

Stay the night at Pullman Magenta Shores , between the ocean and the lake. There are plenty of ways to relax, with a massage at the day spa, a poolside beanbag and a round or two at the golf course.

restaurant at Pullman Magenta Shores central coast — Eat well at Pullman Magenta Shores’ restaurant. (Image: Destination NSW)

Winter in Wollongong

Wollongong does contrast pretty well. One moment you’re walking beneath an enormous Buddha, the next you’re ordering soju a few blocks from the surf. It’s a town where skydivers land on beaches, trails lead to paddocks and winter days stretch long and clear beneath the Illawarra cliffs.

If you’re coming from the north, start by crossing over the Sea Cliff Bridge. Curving dramatically out like a jutting ‘C’ out above the water means you won’t be able to resist pulling over (safely, in designated lookouts) to gaze down at the waves crashing on the cliffs below.

Just inland is the serenity of the Nan Tien Temple , the largest Buddhist temple in the Southern Hemisphere. You can trace the prayer path, explore the temple gardens and sip delectable Kam Quat Tea in the quiet light at the Dew Drop Inn Tea House.

monk teaching tai chi at Nan Tien Temple — Learn about Buddhist practices. (Image: Destination NSW)

Next, dust off that cowboy hat. It’s time for the Darkes Forest Riding Ranch . Take a guided canter via trail rides among peppermint gums and paddocks. If you’re happier to look at animals than ride them, Symbio Wildlife Park has red pandas dozing in trees, kangaroos that hop up to you and lessons on conservation.

The brave among you shouldn’t miss Skydive Australia – Wollongong . A free fall over the coast via tandem jumps before tumbling down to the sand is a breath-stopping thrill. Prefer to keep your feet on the ground? Check out the program at Wollongong Art Gallery , which delivers contemporary and Aboriginal exhibitions in the centre of town.

monkey at Symbio Wildlife Park — Hang out with the locals at Symbio Wildlife Park.(Image: Destination NSW)

As evening settles in, nab a table at Baby Face Kitchen . It has an ever-changing set menu, with dishes like hand-picked mud crab with white asparagus and salty brown butter, to sheep’s milk and honey ice cream. For something more casual, Dagwood Bar + Kitchen brings the fun with Korean fried chicken, sake cocktails and weekly all-you-can-eat bao buns.

Check in to Novotel Wollongong Northbeach , right by the sand. With a beachfront pool and ocean views, it’s an ideal base for whatever pace you choose.

Winter on the New South Wales coast starts with a cosy place to stay. Start planning your adventure at all.com.