Brett Whiteley’s former home and studio has now reopened with Coming Home, a new exhibition that explores the artist’s return to Australia after a decade overseas.
Great artists invite a curiosity not just about their work, but about the person behind it. Brett Whiteley was one of those artists. His studio, a former T-shirt warehouse that he renovated with his then-wife, Wendy, offers a glimpse into the man behind the canvas.
After two years of closure, the Sydney studio where Whiteley lived and worked during the final four years of his life has reopened to the public, managed by the Art Gallery of NSW. To mark the reopening, the Brett Whiteley Studio presents Coming Home, a new exhibition that explores the period when Whiteley returned to Australia after a decade spent in New York, London and Fiji.
Coming Home brings together more than 80 paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics, prints, photographs and sketchbooks from the collections of the Art Gallery of New South Wales and the Brett Whiteley Studio.
“There’s nothing else like [the studio] in Australia," says Beatrice Gralton, the studio’s senior curator. “People get a real surprise when they go [in] and see the archive of possessions, books, records and newspaper clippings. The studio can explain something about the artist that helps people feel closer to the work."
The studio is less a traditional museum than a living artefact: the space has remained largely unchanged in the three decades since Whiteley’s death, from paintbrushes left in situ to handwritten graffiti on the walls and paint splattered across the floor. Browsing the artist’s unfinished works and personal items while listening to a soundtrack drawn from his 600-strong vinyl collection offers visitors a glimpse into the mind behind some of Australia’s most celebrated works of modern art.
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Restoring a Sydney landmark
Preserving this inner-city landmark required a painstaking restoration. The upgrades included installing climate-controlled air conditioning, a new staircase and replacing the roof – all while protecting the studio’s original features. “The building was without a roof for around six months," says Gralton, “so to preserve the upstairs painting studio we had to construct a weatherproof micro-chamber. When [the chamber] was removed, it was a wonderful feeling to see Whiteley’s handwritten graffiti completely unchanged."
Improving accessibility was a key priority for the upgrades – the renovations introduced a new lift and ambulant bathrooms, ensuring more visitors can experience the studio for themselves. “The most important aspect of the restoration was to preserve what is essential to the Brett Whiteley Studio," says Gralton, “the unique energy and character the building offers, while ensuring access for future generations".
Coming Home brings together works Whiteley created after he and his young family returned to Sydney in 1969. The city wasn’t just a backdrop for Whiteley’s work; it was one of his defining subjects. He returned to paint Sydney Harbour again and again, depicting it in the rain, beneath overcast skies and in spring with the jacarandas in full bloom.
“Coming Home [reflects] Whiteley’s connection to the landscape and birdlife that would become so important in his Australian works," says Gralton. “Initially, the Whiteleys thought they would move back to London, but they fell in love with Lavender Bay – the harbour, the light, the birds, boats and natural beauty."
Lavender Bay is where Whiteley’s former wife and muse, Wendy Whiteley, created her much-loved ‘secret garden’ on a stretch of abandoned railway land. It was also where they lived, and the vantage point from which Whiteley painted Balcony 2 (1975), a sweeping view across Sydney Harbour rendered with his signature gestural lines. Balcony 2 is one of the key works on display in Coming Home, as is his Archibald-winning Self-portrait in the studio (1976) and Alchemy (1972–73), Whiteley’s monumental 17-metre abstract masterpiece, which stretches throughout the downstairs studio.
“Alchemy is a metaphysical self-portrait," says Gralton. “A deep dive into life, death and the journey between." It’s a work that, like the studio itself, offers a glimpse into the mind of the artist whose vision helped reshape the face of modern Australian art.
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Elizabeth Whitehead is a writer obsessed with all things culture; doesn't matter if it's pop culture or cultures of the world. She graduated with a degree in History from the University of Sydney (after dropping out from Maths). Her bylines span AFAR, Lonely Planet, ELLE, Harper's BAZAAR and Refinery 29. Her work for Australian Traveller was shortlisted for single article of the year at the Mumbrella Publishing Awards 2024. She is very lucky in thrifting, very unlucky in UNO.
With more than 60 nationalities calling it home and a century of Italian influence shaping its paddocks and plates, Griffith is a regional Australian town with serious culinary cred.
It might feel surprising to learn that Griffith is one of Australia’s leading food destinations. In-the-know Italians have understood this for generations, drawn to the Riverina region’s fertile soils that reminded them of the terrain they’d left behind more than a century ago. These days, Griffith supplies much of the nation’s pantry: 95 per cent of Australia’s prunes come from the region, it’s the country’s largest citrus-growing area, and it’s a leading producer of almonds and walnuts. Even the pickles in every McDonald’s burger nationwide are produced in Griffith. This is not just a farming town; the Griffith food scene is leading the way.
Here, culinary confidence is rooted in migration. Italian families began arriving from 1913, with a second wave settling after the Second World War. Today, Griffith has the highest proportion of Italian ancestry of any Local Government Area in Australia. Add to that more than 60 nationalities represented across the community and you have a town where food is driven not by trends, but by tradition. Griffith’s motto, ‘Taste our culture’, isn’t marketing spin; it’s the reality.
Where the vines tell a story
Uncover the stories behind every glass. (Image: Destination NSW)
The Riverina has long been dubbed the food bowl of Australia, but it’s also a wine region that remains largely under the radar. What sets Griffith apart is that every one of its wineries is family-owned, many spanning generations.
Calabria Family Wines is one of the region’s standard-bearers. The Calabria story began in 1945 when Francesco Calabria planted his first vines; today, the family continues to shape the region’s identity while also stewarding the historic McWilliam’s Wines brand. McWilliam’s was the first winery to plant vines in the area, and its barrel-shaped cellar door – complete with a soaring stained-glass window – remains one of the most distinctive in regional NSW.
Yarran Wines, run by the Brewer family, showcases estate-grown fruit across Mediterranean varietals that thrive in the warm climate. Expect bold reds and textured whites that reflect both heritage and innovation.
Set inside the old ambulance station, Harvest HQ is owned and operated by the Riverina Winemakers Association and pours a rotating selection of local wines under one roof. It also features spirits from The Aisling Distillery, reinforcing the region’s collaborative approach to craft.
At the table
Dine where tradition meets a bold new generation. (Image: Visit Griffith)
If the vineyards tell one story, the dining rooms tell another. Griffith’s restaurants are where tradition and next-gen confidence meet.
Zecca Handmade Italian occupies the former Rural Bank building, an imposing Art Deco landmark from the late 1930s. ‘Zecca’ means money print, and the name is a nod to the Zecca di Venezia in Venice. Here, find the Riverina’s only producer of dried artisan pasta and traditional Italian recipes. Importantly, the growers and producers supplying the kitchen are listed on the menu as a transparent expression of the region’s farm-to-table ethos.
Established in 1977 and still run by the Vico family, La Scala puts authentic Italian cuisine on centre stage. Expect handmade pasta, traditional wood-fired pizzas, slow-cooked sauces and dishes that follow recipes guarded like family heirlooms. For something more contemporary, Bull & Bell in Gem Hotelis a shrine to the Euro-style steakhouse that works closely with local farmers and artisans to showcase Riverina produce.
And then there are the institutions. Bertoldo’s Pasticceria, now in its third generation, draws locals daily for cannoli, biscotti, crostoli and house-made gelato, alongside classic sausage rolls and potato pies. La Piccola Grosseria feels like stepping into an Italian alimentari, its shelves lined with continental goods that wouldn’t feel out of place in Puglia.
Meanwhile, Limone celebrates local and seasonal produce across breakfast and lunch menus, enriched by the produce and stories of Piccolo Family Farm. Find pastries and sourdough baked daily, and pop into the onsite retail pantry for products from regional producers – including the Piccolo family’s own wine range, Caro Piccolo.
From the source
Taste world-renowned Aquna Sustainable Murray Cod, straight from its source. (Image: Visit Griffith)
Behind every menu is a producer. Aquna Sustainable Murray Cod is perhaps Griffith’s most high-profile export; the brand’s Murray cod and Aquna Gold Murray Cod Caviar have achieved global recognition. In October 2024, Aquna presented its products to King Charles III and Queen Camilla at the NSW Premier’s Community BBQ in Parramatta. Impressed by the producer’s sustainable farming practices, the King requested the cod be sent to Buckingham Palace – not bad for a fish farm in regional NSW.
Mandolé Orchard champions almonds grown on a family-run farm, transforming them into almond milk and value-added products. At Morella Grove, olives are pressed into premium olive oil and pantry staples that speak to Griffith’s Mediterranean heart. These producers are not peripheral; they are central to the town’s culinary ecosystem. Learn about local sustainable farming practices during a farm tour.
Mark your calendar
Plan your visit around A Taste of Italy Griffith. (Image: Visit Griffith)
For a town that helps stock Australia’s supermarkets, Griffith has remained curiously absent from the national dining conversation. That’s beginning to change. If you’ve been searching for a regional food destination with substance, heritage and a clear sense of identity, you’ll find it here in the Riverina, right under your nose.
Time your visit to the Riverina region to coincide with A Taste of Italy Griffith, held every August. This week-long celebration of Italian heritage and culture offers a wide range of Italian-inspired events and experiences to enjoy. Expect long-table lunches, wine tasting experiences, cooking classes and a Makers in the Piazza market. The headline event is a ticketed long lunch – Festa delle Salsicce (Salami Festival) – where winners of the best salami are announced.
