Slow the flow of modern-day life in Australia’s magical spa country with a stay at the new Hepburn Bathhouse.
Sunlight spills across a large wooden table lined with a curious collection of essences, extracts, and pastel-hued powders in glass jars, each with a handwritten label. I pause at each of the small brown bottles, drawing their pipettes to compare the heady scents. Meanwhile, a spa therapist assuming the role of fragrance sommelier explains the formula for a perfectly scented soak: an uplifting citrus top note, a relaxing floral middle note, and a grounding, rich and heavy base note. I squeeze drops of bergamot, lavender, and a dash of frankincense into my bowl, stirring them with a scattering of rose petals, some pink Himalayan rock salt, and a sprinkle of ashwagandha in a small pot with a wooden spoon: it’s all a little bit meditative, ASMR and aesthetically pleasing.
Dip into magic. Hepburn Bathhouse has reopened bigger and better – think private mineral baths, custom apothecary soaks and rooms that range from pink-tiled bliss to slate-minimal zen.
Custom ‘apothecary’ experience
Each guest who opts for a private ‘Alchemist Mineral Bath’ at Hepburn Bathhouse & Spa is invited to make their own custom concoction. As my bath is drawn, I laze in the adjacent sunken timber lounge, sipping on an organic, herbal house-made tea that features some of the very same botanicals as the essential oils on the table (calendula, licorice root and spearmint, to name a few). Snug in slippers and a white waffle robe, I unfurl one of the curled blankets across my lap as melodic spa music echoes, and succumb to the serenity that permeates the spa’s every corner.
Guests can now customise their own Apothecary concoction when booking a private bathing experience. (Image: Supplied)
The marble private bathing room is one of five new designs. (Image: Supplied)
The new Apothecary experience is for guests who opt for the private bathing rooms. (Image: Supplied)
Another version of the new private bathing rooms. (Image: Supplied)
Pink subway tiles create a soothing space to bathe. (Image: Supplied)
Private mineral baths updated
This hands-on ‘apothecary’ experience is one of the newest additions to Australia’s oldest spa (est. 1895), which reopened in August 2025 after a multimillion-dollar facelift. The entire space has undergone a refresh, from new tiling and lighting to refurbished changing rooms. But chief among the updates are the private mineral baths themselves, five of which were overhauled by contestants from the 21st season of The Block, each offering a wholly different vibe. One is vibrant and uplifting, plastered with pink subway tiles; another is awash with slate and captures a meditative minimalism; while a third is a riot of patterns, decked in veined marble, chevron-tiled floors, and an embossed copper-look ceiling.
A soothing soak in the mineral waters of Hepburn Bathhouse & Spa. (Image: Supplied)
The therapeutic powers of mineral bathing
A 45-minute soak in a private bath might feel like an eternity of solitude in an age defined by overscheduling, digital addiction, restlessness and hustle culture, yet the time slips by surprisingly quickly and proves unexpectedly restorative. There’s a sudden rosy glow on my long anaemic-looking cheeks, a softness to my skin, and, just maybe, a slower pace to my thoughts. The therapeutic powers of mineral bathing have, of course, been lauded for centuries: even the ancient Greeks and Egyptians extolled the virtues of mineral bathing for its relaxation properties and supposed ability to treat ailments. The warm, spring-fed waters here at Hepburn Bathhouse are rich in magnesium, calcium, silica and sulphur, helping to ease muscle tension and support skin health. But there’s a mindfulness element too.
The benefits of bathing have long been praised. (Image: Supplied)
In the main bathhouse, couples, friends, and mums and daughters all take to the waters, chatting, relaxing and generally enjoying each other’s company. Across history and cultures, bathhouses have acted as social hubs and anchors for local communities, and it feels profoundly refreshing to see people carve out time together, not a screen in sight; almost as if stepping into a time warp. Solo bathers find serenity here, too. Some resting their cheek on the pool’s edge and closing their eyes as their bodies float, others gazing straight out through the floor-to-ceiling windows to gorge on the abundant greenery beyond, and the occasional swamp wallaby.
From bathing to dining
With only a small cafe onsite, those coming to (rightly) make a weekend of it must venture beyond the bathhouse for dinner. Lucky then that noteworthy cafes and restaurants are in strong supply in Australia’s Spa Capital, with Lake House Restaurant , Bar Merenda and The Surly Goat among the region’s frontrunners. Few local restaurants promise a dining experience as mindful and holistically considered as Kadota , however.
A kaiseki-style restaurant, Kadota invites diners to slow down and savour each elaborately plated morsel by honouring seasonality and exalting the provenance of every ingredient, all with typical Japanese modesty. Come winter, that might mean a pair of small, sweet mousse-like ‘pies’ made of slippery jack mushrooms, white chocolate and pine nuts, and moulded to resemble pumpkins that sit atop a dried oak leaf. Or a fermented kohlrabi and chive sauce that’s poured by teapot, tableside, onto local brassicas — the dish brightened by a cluster of cured salmon roe pearls and butterflies fashioned from daikon. Equal thought and care has been showered upon the dining room, which is a talking point in itself: light shades crafted by a local artist to mimic a lotus root; a feature wall of Daylesford pinewood, blackened using the traditional Japanese wood preservation method of yaki-matsu; hand-scribed scrolls made by co-owner Risa Kadota’s grandfather; and lemon balm stalks strung up along the wall to air-dry for tea.
Like Hepburn Bathhouse, Kadota possesses a special kind of alchemy that’s greater than the sum of its parts, affording guests a deeper connection with the present. Somehow, even the drive from Melbourne to Hepburn feels like part of the experience, as if the spa’s founders dreamed it up that way. The city’s grit, grey and congestion gradually recedes in the rearview mirror, giving way to bucolic scenes and quiet roads: woolly sheep grazing on golden fields, gently rolling hills, winding roads flanked by forest, horses in paddocks, and family-run farmgate stalls. The drive itself becomes part of the ritual, nudging visitors into a more mindful state before they’ve even dipped their toes in the town’s magical waters.
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Chloe Cann is an award-winning freelance travel and food writer, born in England, based in Melbourne and Roman by adoption. Since honing her skills at City St George's, University of London with a master's degree in journalism, she's been writing almost exclusively about travel for more than a decade, and has worked in-house at newspapers and travel magazines in London, Phnom Penh, Sydney and Melbourne. Through a mixture of work and pleasure, she's been fortunate enough to visit 80 countries to date, though there are many more that she is itching to reach. While the strength of a region's food scene tends to dictate the location of her next trip, she can be equally swayed by the promise of interesting landscapes and offbeat experiences. And with a small person now in tow, travel looks a little different these days, but it remains at the front of her mind.
Feast your way through Sun Country on the Murray – a beautiful and bountiful region in northern Victoria with gourmet delights galore.
Nestled on the lands of the Yorta Yorta People along the mighty Murray River, Sun Country is a truly extraordinary place. The northern Victorian enclave is a tapestry of meandering waterways, ancient forests, sandy beaches, enchanting country towns and an easy way of life.
Beyond its landscapes and bucolic charm, Sun Country on the Murray is a culinary paradise: think farm-fresh produce, family-run wineries and no shortage of places to feast.
If you’re a serious foodie or simply epicurious, here’s your ultimate guide to a gourmand Murray River getaway.
The Murray Farm Gate Trail
The self-guided Murray Gate Farm Trail lets you sample the area’s best produce while immersing yourself in the lush Goulburn and Murray Valleys. The trail has something to suit every palate and pace, but there are a few notable highlights.
1. Rich Glen
Stock up at Rich Glen. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)
Rich Glen is renowned for its award-winning olive oils. Everything is grown and created on the family farm in Yarrawonga, the results of which you can visit at Rich Glen Provedore – a treasure trove of gourmet foods, including that signature olive oil. Or explore Rich Glen Skin & Beauty, which stocks lush handmade skincare and wellness products.
2. How Now Dairy
A charming micro-farm producing ethical dairy, How Now Dairy , lets its baby calves remain with their mothers and its cows roam on rolling pesticide-free pastures. Try a selection of cheeses that do good and taste good, including a fantastic punchy blue, and velvety milk with a thick, creamy top.
3. Cactus Country
Stop into Cactus Country. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)
Cactus Country is a 12-acre stretch of desert-like garden containing cacti of all shapes, sizes and colours. Naturally, it makes the most of its bounty at the on-site bar and restaurant, with a cactus-infused dessert menu alongside a vibrant line-up of Mexican snacks and mains.
4. The Olde Creamery
The Olde Creamery is a local icon, a former hobby farm that has flourished into a thriving purveyor of flowers and foods. The elderflower cordial and bramble gin and tonic jam are must-tries, and make for tasty mementoes of your trip.
Wineries, breweries and distilleries
The region’s sunny climate and rich soils make it a prime place for viticulture. If wine isn’t your thing, you’ll also find boutique breweries and distilleries producing top-notch beers and spirits.
1. Squires Winery
Pop in for a tasting. (Image: Visit Victoria)
With its idyllic positioning on the Ovens River, Squires Winery is a lovely setting for a long, leisurely lunch or tasting. Enjoy a riverside sip of prosecco, rosé or cab sauv, complemented by seasonal bites and a backdrop of towering gum trees.
2. Cape Horn Vineyard
Cape Horn is one of the region’s most established vineyards. Its sparkling durif/shiraz is a crowd favourite and well worth trying on your foodie tour, especially if it’s served with one of the winery’s delicious wood-fired pizzas.
3. Byramine Homestead & Brewery
Enjoy a tipple at this historic homestead.
A top pick among beer, cider and history enthusiasts, Byramine serves a rotation of brews made on-site in the historic homestead. Wander through the venue and learn about its colonial past before sitting down to a freshly made Ploughman’s and cold local ale.
4. Monichino Wines
Monichino is a slice of la dolce vita in northern Victoria, producing classic Italian varietals like pinot grigio and aromatica. Drop by for a tasting at the cellar door (open weekends or by appointment) and explore everything from crisp whites to robust fortified wines, or pack a picnic and savour your glass in the picturesque gardens.
5. Corowa Distilling Co
Sit down to a hearty lunch. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Corowa Distilling Co crafts an incredible variety of single-malt and blended whiskies, and is a beloved spot among locals and visitors alike. Stop in for a tasting flight in the whisky room, or a hearty breakfast or lunch paired with a wee dram.
Farm-to-table dining
If you’ve got the time to linger over a gourmet spread, Sun Country on the Murray has an abundance of outstanding restaurants and cafes.
1. O’Reilly’s Food and Wine
O’Reilly’s feels much like stepping into a good friend’s home, albeit with a refined twist. The menu changes weekly and rotates through a selection of comforting yet elevated dishes – think lamb cottage pie, French-style moussaka, a perennially popular open steak sandwich and cakes that change flavours weekly.
2. Stock and Barrel
Soak in views of Lake Mulwala. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Tucked inside The Sebel Yarrawonga hotel, overlooking sparkling Lake Mulwala, Stock and Barrel does pub classics with a Sun Country spin. Order a perfectly seared steak and triple-cooked potatoes alongside a freshly poured pint, or try a regional highlight: local produce features abundantly across Stock and Barrel’s dishes.
3. The Bend
With spacious decks and panoramic views of the Murray, The Bend is ideal for a sun-soaked long lunch. Order a round of moreish share plates (like baja fish tacos and a warm-from-the-oven brioche loaf stuffed with cream cheese and herbs) or a signature cocktail and indulgent main – we can’t go past the slow-braised wagyu brisket.
4. Blacksmith Provedore
Taste Blacksmith Provedore’s delicious pizzas. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)
If you’re after a slick yet relaxed dining destination, head to Blacksmith Provedore . Perched right next to Lake Mulwala, the venue is airy and elegant, with a minimalist-chic design. The pizzas are seriously good too, made with 72-hour fermented dough and toppings sourced from Italy’s finest producers.
5. Broken Willow
As soon as you enter Broken Willow ’s front doors, you’re greeted with genuine hospitality and a classic bistro menu that has something for everyone: succulent grilled meats, parmas and schnitzels, juicy burgers, and international dishes ranging from weekly curry and stir-fry specials to zippy banh mi.
While you’re there
Discover plenty to do between meals. (Image: Chloe Smith Photography)
Got a few hours to spare? Make the most of your trip by exploring the natural wonders and rich cultural heritage of your riverside surroundings.
Barmah National Park is a sanctuary of walks through majestic river red gums and serene wetlands. Here, a seat on board a Kingfisher River Cruise offers a different Murray experience, letting you see the vast river from the perspective of the Yorta Yorta peoples.
If you’re a watersport enthusiast, Lake Mulwala in Yarrawonga is a favourite for canoeing, cruising, fishing, kayaking and water skiing. While the silo murals at Katamatite, St James, Tungamah and more recently Waaia are essential stops in Victoria’s famed Silo Art Trail .
In Cobram Barooga, make sure to visit Thompson’s Beach, the largest inland beach in the southern hemisphere. Nearby, the Bullanginya Dreaming project is an award-winning 1.8km immersive art experience that immerses you in light and sound to tell a rich story of country, culture and connection.