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K’gari’s unique ancient lakes once dried out. Could this happen again?

John Tibby , University of Adelaide ; Conway Burns , Indigenous Knowledge , and Harald Hofmann , CSIRO

The lakes on the world’s biggest sand island, K’gari, are famous. Pivotal to the World Heritage listing of the Queensland island formerly known as Fraser Island, their turquoise waters feature in international tourism campaigns and social media posts.

K’gari has more than 40 unique lakes, some more than 55,000 years old. They range from the photogenic clear waters of Boorangoora (Lake McKenzie), pictured above, which filters through the sand dune it rests in, to the emerald-green waters of Lake Wabby, a window lake which is (very) slowly being swallowed by a giant sand dune.

In fact, K’gari is home to more than half of the world’s perched lakes, more than 50, including Boorangoora. Perched lakes form when sand is cemented together with decomposed organic matter (such as leaves and bark), aluminium and iron. This creates an impermeable layer well above sea level. It’s remarkable these lakes exist, given water usually passes quickly through sand.

Until now, it was believed K’gari’s lakes would have contained water since the last ice age ended, about 11,500 years ago. But our new research found some of the island’s deepest lakes dried out only 7,500 years ago. In the current era of climate change, it’s possible this could happen again.

Lake Garawongera is a tannin-stained perched lake, which is isolated from deeper, larger groundwater sources. (Image: John Tibby, CC BY-ND )

The eyes of K’gari

For the island’s Traditional Owners, the Butchulla people , these lakes are the “eyes of K’gari" and their waters are sacred. The Butchulla believe they have been entrusted with an eternal responsibility: to preserve K’gari’s beauty, spirit, waterways and lakes so future generations may experience the same connection.

K’gari is home to two key types of lakes. Perched lakes (described above) are the best-known type, while window lakes , filled by rain and groundwater, are so named because they offer a “window" to groundwater below the land.

The climate history of these lakes is recorded in their muddy sediment. What happens in and around the lake gets “written" into the layers: plant pollen tells us about local vegetation while greater amounts of sand might indicate erosion.

Ocean Lake. In the foreground is a day waterlily, an invasive species on K’gari. (Image: Dave Sternberg, CC BY-ND )

A gap in the record

In our research we found this sediment was missing from some of K’gari’s oldest lakes between 7,500 and 5,500 years ago. This gap in the record was identified by radiocarbon dating of sediments from K’gari’s Lake Boorangoora, Lake Allom and Basin Lake.

This gap in sediment suggests the lake basins were not then covered by water. This can happen when there is not enough rainfall over decades. Many Australian lakes dried up during more than the decade-long Millennium Drought .

Our findings were unexpected. We would not have expected the lakes to dry up, as the sediment gap happened during the current Holocene geological epoch, during which global temperatures have varied by less than one degree and moisture has been abundant.

Recent sediment research from another major sand island, Minjerribah (or North Stradbroke Island), shows this island was wetter than K’gari during the same period. Why, at a time of relatively mild climate variation, was it generally wetter just 250 kilometres south? We think southeasterly trade winds supplied rainfall to Minjerribah but not K’gari.

Researchers at Lake Garawongera. From left to right are Conway Burns, Caitlin Jones, Margaux Dupuy, Harald Hofmann and Bob Broome. (Image: John Tibby, CC BY-ND )

Future of a special place

Our findings highlight the pressing need to know much more about K’gari’s beautiful lakes. In a warming climate expected to become drier but punctuated with more intense rainfall, are these lakes at risk of evaporating? At the moment, we simply don’t know.

For most lakes on K’gari, there’s no information about how much water they hold or even how deep they are. The little information available from a few simple surveys hints that lakes were generally deeper in the 1970s.

In response, we have started surveying the underwater depth and topography of the lakes, using automated monitoring devices to measure how much they fill and drop. Gathering data to understand the water inputs and outputs of today’s lakes will help us better interpret the past – and possibly model the future.

While we are concerned about the future of these lakes, K’gari hosts the greatest diversity of fish and amphibians of any Australian island , hinting at a resilience to climate-driven changes.

In our scientific work, we also try to follow Butchulla teachings. These are: what is good for Country comes first; do not touch or take anything that does not belong to you; and if you have plenty, you must share.

“Gung K’gari Marigurim Yaa": K’gari’s water makes voice strong.The Conversation

Lake Allom, on K’gari. (Image: John Tibby, CC BY-ND )

John Tibby , Associate Professor in Environmental Change, University of Adelaide ; Conway Burns , Butchulla Aboriginal Corporation, Indigenous Knowledge , and Harald Hofmann , Principal Hydrogeologist, CSIRO

This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons license. Read the original article .

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What it’s really like to stay on the world’s largest sand island

    Kassia ByrnesBy Kassia Byrnes
    Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

    The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort  with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

    But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

    Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

    Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

    Exploring K’gari

    ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island
    Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

    This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

    If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

    The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

    kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island
    Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

    If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

    While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise . Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

    The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

    Unwind at sunset

    two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort
    Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

    As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

    The Sunset Bar , located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

    When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

    Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

    Indulge and disconnect

    woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa
    Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

    The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

    Getting there

    kingfisher bay resort 4wd tour driving passed ss maheno on k'gari island
    The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.