Only 20 minutes from the city streets of Adelaide, there is room to roam and relax at Mount Lofty House.
In the years following European settlement, the Adelaide Hills were home to the sprawling summer estates of the city’s elite. The grandest of them all was Mount Lofty House, now a boutique 33-room hotel just 20 minutes from the Adelaide CBD.
Walking through the imposing three-metre-high front door, I’m offered a glass of local sparkling on arrival and it sets the tone for a stay full of pleasant surprises. Cookies and a handwritten welcome note await me in my room, along with an invitation to join a tour of the property at 5pm.
Mount Lofty’s grand exterior and expansive views
The rooms
The entry-level room is compact but well designed. High ceilings create a sense of space, and the bathroom is discreetly hidden behind the king-size four-poster bed. The louvred windows
are best left closed; they open onto a corridor, making this just about the only spot on the property without expansive views.
Fortunately, I can look out over the fertile Piccadilly Valley from the fine-dining restaurant inside and the terraced lawns below the house, both of which have seen more wedding parties than the staff can count. Lush farmland sparkles emerald green in the afternoon sun, and there’s a hint of Tuscany in the houses and vineyards set between chequerboard patches of trees. But this is a uniquely Australian scene and, just a short walk away, mobs of roos loll about while kookaburras swoop through the open eucalypt woodland forest of the upper Mount Lofty Botanic Gardens.
The Conservatory Suite
The property
The freedom to wander the grounds and house is one of the great delights of a stay at Mount Lofty House, and soon I find myself in the open atrium of the library for the daily tour. Over mulled wine, I learn that the solid walls are made of sandstone from local quarries, and remain the only part of the original 1882 building after the devastating Ash Wednesday bushfires. Fortunately the rebuild and subsequent refurbishments have been tastefully done, and the newer elements blend well.
A refined offering at Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant
Despite its size, Mount Lofty House feels cosy and warm. There’s a sense of old-school grandeur, especially in the Arthur Waterhouse Lounge, where I spot a vacant seat by the black marble fireplace. But I’ve barely sunk into the brass-studded leather armchair before I’m up again – I’ve spotted a jar of marshmallows on the mantle and a set of roasting sticks nearby.
As night falls, a blanket of mist envelops the property and spindly tree-branch shadows create a distinctly Gothic atmosphere.
Thinking of the solid front door and carefully manicured grounds, it occurs to me that Mount Lofty House would make the perfect setting for a murder mystery. As I slowly turn my marshmallow over the glowing chunks of red gum, I conclude that there are worse ways to go.
Get cosy in the Arthur Waterhouse Lounge
Verdict
A beautiful heritage property that provides a welcome escape from the city.
We rated
Feeling welcome to explore the house and property, and to make ourselves at home.
We’d change
With filtered spring water on tap, plastic bottles of water in the rooms seem unnecessary.
Notes
Classic rooms start at $449, but regular accommodation packages begin at $399 with a bottle of sparkling wine and a restaurant voucher included.
Alexis Buxton-Collins spent his twenties working as a music journalist and beer taster before somehow landing an even dreamier job as a freelance travel writer. Now he travels the world from his base in Adelaide and contributes to publications including Qantas, Escape, The Guardian and Lonely Planet. Alexis has never seen a hill he didn't want to climb and specialises in outdoor adventures (he won the 2022 ASTW award for best nature/wildlife story for a feature on Kangaroo Island). When he's not scouring South Australia for the newest wineries and hikes, he's looking for excuses to get back to spots like Karijini and Ningaloo.
More than just a stopover, Albury Wodonga is an elevated city escape immersed in nature.
Perhaps best known as a road trip stop between Sydney and Melbourne, Albury Wodonga offers a combination of natural beauty, cultural experiences and a vibrant food scene that make it well worth its own journey.
Nestled on the banks of the mighty Murray River and surrounded by famed wine and gold rush regions, this riverside town packs a broad punch. Discover how best to spend your days on the border.
Exploring the Murray River
1. The Crossing Place Trail
Admire sculptural works from local Indigenous artists.
Head to the original crossing places of the Murray River since 1848 – at the junctions of Bungambrawatha Creek and Oddies Creek. Today, these crossings are still used by cars and cattle, but the five-kilometre Crossing Place Trail loop connects the two bridges for bike riders and walkers.
Wander through gum trees, and maybe even spot local platypus and birdlife. Stop along the way to admire sculptural works from local Indigenous artists, see evidence of a scar tree and learn about the importance of this billabong environment to Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples.
2. Canoe The Murray
Hire canoes or kayaks and get out on the river.
What better way to get a feel for the Murray River than by getting out on its waters? Hire canoes or kayaks from Canoe the Murray , then explore solo or join one of the offered tours. Get up early for a Sunrise and coffee tour, watch the sun dip below the water on a sunset tour or choose one of several daytime trips.
Stand-up paddleboard hire and other water sports, fishing and swimming are also available to river explorers.
3. Noreuil Park Foreshore
Cool off at Noreuil Park Foreshore. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Just outside Albury’s CBD, the riverside Noreuil Park becomes a hub of activity as the weather heats up. Set up on picnic tables under shady trees, use the public barbecues (or pop into the nearby cafe) and cool off with a float down the river.
4. Mungabareena Reserve and Water Works
Spend time at Mungabareena Reserve. (Image: Visit Albury Wodonga)
Delve into nature and culture at the beautiful Mungabareena Reserve . Recognised by state law as a ‘Declared Aboriginal Place’, it was once a historical meeting point for trade and journeys to Mount Bogong for the local Wiradjuri people and still holds deep significance.
It’s another popular spot for fishing, swimming and picnics, while the nearby Water Works area is a great place for spotting wildlife. Try your luck seeing platypuses, wood ducks or rainbow bee-eaters.
Adventuring on Lake Hume
1. Walk the dam wall
Enjoy the view from the dam wall. (Image: Visit Albury Wodonga)
The majestic Lake Hume – a massive man-made reservoir on the Murray River – was once the largest dam in the Southern Hemisphere.
A great way to get acquainted is by walking along the dam wall, taking in views of outflows, electricity turbines and the transmission plant from above. Not to mention vistas of the lake and the Murray. It’s a particularly gorgeous spot for sunsets and sunrises.
A wide sealed walkway gives easy access to the wall, and informative signs and displays along the way educate on the dam’s construction.
2. The High Country Rail Trail
This 44-kilometre trail hugs the shoreline. Stop along the way at the historic town of Tallangatta, relocated to its current position in the 1950s after its original location was flooded. Cross the lake over the bright red Sandy Creek Bridge. Enjoy a lakeside picnic or go for a swim at Ebden, Ludlow’s or Huon Reserve.
3. Water sports
Dive into water sports on Lake Hume.
Lake Hume is a popular local spot for boating, fishing, and swimming. Drop a line or dive right into the clear waters.
Sip and Savour
1. Dux Albury
Sit down to delicious meals and wine at Dux.
Those looking for a high-end dining experience need to book a table at Dux Albury in the heart of Albury Wodonga. Sit down for curated wine lists, cocktails and share plates. Think starters like burrata with beetroot, chervil, caper berry and sherry, mains like Wagyu sirloin with Café De Paris, red wine and caramelised onions and all manner of fresh seafood.
2. Murray Towns Brewing Co.
Recharge at Murray Brewing Co.
Perched on the banks of the river, Murray Towns Brewing Co . has come a long way since two mates started experimenting in their backyard chook shed. With all beer brewed onsite and a sun-drenched beer garden to drink them in, it’s a perfect stop along a bike ride or walk.
3. Temperance and General
Step into Albury’s original laneway bar, Temperance and General . Set inside a historic building, but offering a modern vibe, the bar is locally famous for its cocktail list. Stop in before or after dinner for a creative tipple.
4. BeanStation Cafe
Dine on a modern Australian menu.
Dine on a modern Australian menu , inside the historic Wodonga train station building, dating back to 1873. Pop over in the morning and line up with the locals for great coffee and all-day brekkie, or head over after midday to swap the beans for local wines and Aussie boutique beers.
5. River Deck Cafe
Soak in views and good food at Riverdeck Cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Another dining destination next to the Murray, the award-winning River Deck Cafe provides a large deck covered in dappled sunlight that makes for the ideal long lunch spot. Here, menus focus on natural, native and local ingredients sourced from regional farmers and producers across Albury Wodonga and surrounds.
Museums, murals and more
1. Albury Wodonga Public Art Trail
Gain a sense of Albury Wodonga’s vibrant arts community while wandering the Public Art Trail. Works range from sculptures and murals to wrapped infrastructure. Be sure to check the council map before you head out, so you don’t miss a thing.
2. Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA)
Stop into one of the most visited galleries outside of Sydney. (Image: Visit Albury Wodonga)
MAMA forms the heart of art and culture in Albury Wodonga, some may say the entire Murray region. In fact, it’s one of the most visited galleries outside of Sydney. What makes it so lauded? The museum has earned a reputation for curating innovative, original exhibitions from some of the best contemporary Australian and international artists.
3. HotHouse Theatre
Originally built in 1928 as the Butter Factory Theatre, HotHouse Theatre has been a home of performance since 1997. Stop by to see the best of new Australian theatre. Continue to explore unique architecture on the Historic Building Walking Tour of Albury, the perfect way to round out your stay.
