Inside Southern Ocean Lodge's stunning rebuild

Embedded in the coastal wilderness of Kangaroo Island, the reimagined Southern Ocean Lodge celebrates community, creativity and place like never before.

You don’t forget your arrival at Southern Ocean Lodge. Almost five years since I was first here, I’m walking towards the double-entry doors again as they are swung open for the big reveal. Crossing the threshold, the coastal wilderness of the Southern Ocean is unveiled in all its raw, expansive glory: the lodge’s Great Room setting the stage for drama.

It’s a moment designed to evoke emotion. But the emotion is twofold for returning guests who, like me, visited this luxury lodge on the wave-carved south-west coast of Kangaroo Island before it was razed to the ground in the 2019-2020 Black Summer Bushfires.

A pioneer of luxury, sustainable and experiential tourism in South Australia, and – with its fierce community focus – a game changer for the island, Southern Ocean Lodge (a member of Luxury Lodges of Australia) had not long ago celebrated its 10th anniversary when the catastrophic fires struck. But within days, buoyed by the support of the tourism community and guests around the world, founders James and Hayley Baillie, of Baillie Lodges, committed to rebuild their flagship property.

sunrise views over Southern Ocean Lodge — Southern Ocean Lodge reopened in 2023 after being destroyed in the Black Summer Bushfires that devastated Kangaroo Island. (Image: George Apostolidis)

Southern Ocean Lodge 2.0 opened in December 2023, almost four years to the date of the fires. And it bears almost the same footprint as the original incarnation on the island’s limestone cliffs. The Baillies partnered with Kangaroo Island-born architect Max Pritchard and the team from Max Pritchard Gunner Architects to work on the rebuild along with several key designers.

The aim was to recreate the essence of the lodge and elements that had always worked well while adding new features and design alterations made with the benefit of hindsight. Underscoring everything, the new lodge needed to be futureproof: tackling the challenges of a changing climate and being embedded in the environment in an even more considered way.

Faithfully recreated to the point of uncanny – it feels like it never wasn’t here – the Great Room remains the beating heart of the lodge. Its sink-into-me Ghost Chairs are poised to take in 180-degree views through floor-to-ceiling windows and its cast iron suspended fireplace remains the centrepiece. Along with Sunshine, the kangaroo sculpture that greets you upon entry, made by local artist Indiana James from an old combine harvester, the fireplace was one of few items to survive the fire.

The lodge is a celebration of local creativity, community and place. Adelaide design master Khai Liew’s bespoke lounges that curl around the fireplace, taking cues from the undulating coastline, are among many considered design details.

The ‘help-yourself’ walk-in wine cellar – packed floor-to-ceiling with up to 1200 bottles sourced from across South Australia’s wine regions, including Kangaroo Island itself – was always a highlight for guests. It has now been rebuilt and restocked. I peruse the bottles – an installation depicting a shoal of Southern Ocean whiting by Adelaide glass-blowing artist Llewelyn Ash swimming above my head – and pick a Hobbs of Barossa Tin Lids Aria Secca shiraz to take to dinner.

a glass of gin from Kangaroo Island Spirits — The house gin was concocted by Kangaroo Island Spirits.

The restaurant flows on from the Great Room and boasts a 125-metre limestone feature wall crafted by Kangaroo Island resident Scott Wilson – a stonemason and also a sheep farmer and supplier of marron (freshwater crayfish) to the restaurant. Helmed by executive chef Tom Saliba, the lodge’s menus, too, are a celebration of local and regional produce.

a look inside the restaurant at Southern Ocean Lodge — Meals are served in the airy restaurant. (Image: George Apostolidis)

An ever-changing menu that rolls with the seasons might feature local King George whiting, saltbush gnocchi or Coorong beef. Tom maintains relationships with existing suppliers – such as the local Parndana Campus, where students sustainably farm barramundi, and Kangaroo Island Living Honey, which produces honey from the world’s only purebred colony of Ligurian bees.

a close-up of a dish at the restaurant inside Southern Ocean Lodge — The menu is driven by the seasons. (Image: George Apostolidis)

Chef Tom is excited to work with new suppliers in the community, such as Kangaroo Island Mushrooms and Juniper Rise, a produce garden that supplies microgreens and vegetables. Tom took the reins as executive chef at Southern Ocean Lodge just months before the fires and was committed to coming back from day one.

The intervening years saw stints in the kitchens of sister properties in the Baillie Lodges portfolio, such as Capella Lodge , Longitude 131° and Silky Oaks Lodge , in between return trips to the island to play a part in the rebuild. With each visit, Tom says, seeing the regeneration of not just nature, but local businesses and hearing about new suppliers opening up, was exciting. “And the homecoming has been great. To see the similarities but the differences as well," he says.

the pool at Southern Ocean Lodge — Enjoy a refreshing dip in between adventures. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Key differences at Southern Ocean Lodge lie in the addition of a wet-edge pool and a more spacious Southern Spa with three treatment rooms, a sauna, and hot and cold plunge pools. Further up the clifftop lies the new ultra-premium Baillie Pavilion, which can be booked as a whole four-bedroom residence or as two separate suites. It is the ultimate private retreat that emulates the feel of the lodge itself, complete with a scaled-down version of the Great Room.

the Great Room at Southern Ocean Lodge — The Great Room is the heart of the lodge.

The remaining 23 suites, which peel away down the coastline, have been reoriented to optimise views. Facing south-east, my Flinders Suite is a study in quiet luxury and intuitive design with a calming palette of neutral limestone, warm blackwood and storm blue inviting the outdoors to take centre stage.

the Flinders Suite lounge, Southern Ocean Lodge — A Flinders Suite looks out over the Southern Ocean. (Image: George Apostolidis)

My suite is ensconced in the coastal heath, and its sunken lounge, deep tub and private deck each provide optimal spots from which to take it all in. But nothing can compare to lying in a bespoke Baillie Bed in cloud-like linens watching the sun rise over the roiling ocean – next stop Antarctica, sea spray shimmering in the buttery first light – or falling asleep at night to a percussive lullaby of crashing waves.

Southern Ocean Lodge has always championed local artists, but 2.0 sees more bespoke commissions line its walls than ever. The signature kangaroo-print fabric from artist and designer Julie Paterson, of Cloth – which formed a foundational design element of the original lodge – has been lovingly reinstated in each guestroom and beyond. That her work is inspired by the strength and diversity of the Australian landscape is fitting.

relics from the collection of Artist JanineMackintosh — Artist Janine Mackintosh collected relics from the burnt site and arranged them into plaques.

Mandalas made by Kangaroo Island assemblage artist Janine Mackintosh from eucalyptus leaves, seeds and shells once again line the limestone walls of the restaurant, while a wall of found objects marks the entrance to the Southern Spa: remnants gathered from the aftermath of the fire that have been given new life and beauty. Elsewhere, Indiana James, too, has fashioned items found in the ashes, from stainless-steel lotion pumps to serving utensils, into a spirited metal lyrebird sculpture, Lyre Lyre Pans on Fire.

artwork details, Southern Ocean Lodge — The rooms boast contemporary artworks. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Taking a sneak peek at the Baillie Pavilion, I’m spellbound by a series of works by artists from the remote An-angu Pitjantjatjara Yankunytjatjara Lands in the north-western corner of South Australia that were commissioned by Hayley Baillie.

the Ocean Pavilion West, Southern Ocean Lodge — The Baillie Pavilion features paintings by artists from the APY Lands. (Image: George Apostolidis)

Completed following a visit to the site in 2021, these large-scale paintings swirl with life in an interpretation of the landscape I haven’t seen before.

one of the artworks displayed at Southern Ocean Lodge — Southern Ocean Lodge stands as a beacon of art and design. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Not the green, blue and surf-white triptych that floods the retina at first blink, but pink clay, lilac, plum, sage and all shades of sand. I make a mental note to take a close look at the landscape and the colours of its flora as I comb the coastal scrub myself.

the freestanding bath at Osprey Suite, Southern Ocean Lodge — The stunning Osprey Suite has ocean views from the freestanding bath. (Image: George Apostolidis)

Above all, Southern Ocean Lodge is a base from which to immerse yourself in its surrounding nature. We visit Seal Bay Conservation Park to observe its colony of sea lions porpoising in the surf and snoozing on the sand. And head into Flinders Chase National Park on a half-day Wonders of Kangaroo Island experience to visit the fur seals of Admirals Arch and the sculptural granite marvels – dusted with their distinctive orange lichen – known as Remarkable Rocks.

a portrait shot of a sea lion — Embark on a Seal Bay safari. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Ninety per cent of this national park at the western end of Kangaroo Island was destroyed in the bushfires, but the opening of a $19.5 million state-of-the-art visitor centre in July 2024 marked a significant milestone in bushfire recovery. And a signature Koalas and Kangas experience provides the chance to feel heartened by the bounce-back of our beloved marsupials at Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary and the historic property of Grassdale.

the view from the Clifftop Walk, Southern Ocean Lodge — The lodge comes into view from the Clifftop Walk. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

On my final morning here, I head out from the lodge on a clifftop walk through coastal heath, waves crashing vertiginously below while ospreys soar overhead. The return leg offers a fresh perspective as Southern Ocean Lodge comes back into view: its low profile hugging the contours of the coastline.

Among the raft of leading environmental initiatives ensuring the new-look lodge stays completely off-grid and fit for the future – including its hybrid solar and battery infrastructure, rainwater harvesting supplemented by a reverse osmosis system that converts bore water to fresh water, and a state-of-the-art bushfire sprinkler system – is a 20-metre wilderness buffer planted with fire-retardant native succulents and the island’s own endemic juniper.

Fresh growth is everywhere. But some chalky skeletal trees remain in the line of sight as a visible scar and a potent reminder of what went before. My eyes are pulled back down as I spot a pair of dolphins frolicking in the waves. I soon realise they are leading me back to Southern Ocean Lodge, which sits gently in the landscape like a lighthouse: a beacon of resilience and hope.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Just 15 kilometres from mainland South Australia, Kangaroo Island is accessible via a 40-minute Qantaslink flight from Adelaide/ Tarndanya or a 45-minute Sealink ferry transfer from Cape Jervis.

Staying there

A stay at Southern Ocean Lodge is all-inclusive of breakfast, lunch and dinner with menus that change daily, an open bar with premium wines and spirits and an in-suite bar that is replenished daily. Rates also include signature guided experiences of Kangaroo Island and return Kangaroo Island Airport transfers, including access to the lodge’s exclusive airport lounge before departure. The wheelchair-accessible Flinders Suite features level floors, a modified bathroom and close proximity to the main lodge. Rates start at $2950 per suite per night based on two guests staying. Southern Ocean Lodge is a member of Luxury Lodges of Australia.

Playing there

Signature Experiences include the half-day wonders of Kangaroo Island, Seal Bay Safari , Coastal Clifftop Walk , Koalas and Kangas , a guided tour of Kelly Hill Caves and a Taste of SA Wine . Experiences at additional cost include the four-hour remarkable hike , Nocturnal Explorer and Beach Fishing .

Hikers can also set out on a variety of self-guided walking trails that leave from the lodge doorstep, and those looking to explore further afield can book a full-day private itinerary with the lodge’s own experiences team, or renowned operators KI Touring Company and Exceptional Kangaroo Island . Don’t forget to peruse the Southern Spa menu of indulgent treatments that make the most of Kangaroo Island’s prized natural beauty products for a spot of TLC after all that adventuring.

Newcastle’s vibrant creativity is evident everywhere, from a thriving live arts scene to an ever-growing offering for gourmands. Those with a hunger for new and exciting experiences should put Newcastle on their radar.

When it comes to consuming the culture of a city, digesting it (in the literal sense) is an appropriate place to start. But it’s not just a world-class wining and dining scene that’s on the menu (not to mention all the new restaurants in Newcastle ). Newcastle – just two hours north of Sydney – offers the perfect blend of arts, culture and culinary experiences that make it a prime destination for an extended escape. The city’s creative future looks even brighter with the reopening of the highly anticipated Newcastle Art Gallery on the horizon.

aerial of Nobbys beach in newcastle nsw — Newcastle offers the perfect coastal setting for the arts and delicious eats. (Image: City of Newcastle)

Given Newcastle’s compact size – many venues are within easy walking distance or a quick drive away – you can immerse yourself fully. From decadent patisseries to fine diners and casual coastal eats, here’s a fresh taste of Newcastle: where to eat, drink and soak up the coastal city’s good vibes.

1. Pastry cafes in Newcastle

pastries next to a pastry box from crumb cafe in newcastle — Lean into Newcastle’s pastry renaissance at Crumb. (Image: Jemma Donkin)

Pastry is having a moment, with a quietly booming scene led by CRUMB, the brand-new pastry cafe in Lambton led by legendary Gareth Williams (of Covered in Crumbs, EXP) and Ben Richardson (Autumn Rooms). Gareth describes his style of food as ‘creative chaos’. Enjoy that abstract artisanal approach over a savoury chorizo, bechamel, cheddar and poppy pastry, or a layered mortadella and pesto mayo croissant sandwich.

Meanwhile, Leibe European Pastries, Pekárna, Union St Pastry and Praise Joe also have their own flair and loyal followings. While Liebe European Pastries is famed for layered German pastries such as Franzbrötchen, Pekárna’s signatures (like cardamom pastries) are tethered to Czech traditions.

Head a few blocks west to Wickham, where Union St Pastry is the pinnacle for lovers of European-style viennoiseries, such as croissants and Danishes. A getaway to Newcastle also looks pretty fabulous with a mega brownie or chicken little toastie from Praise Joe .

2. Destination dining

Blanca resuarant in newcastle nsw — Step inside Mediterranean-inspired eatery, Blanca. (Image: Destination NSW)

Life looks pretty peachy from a table at the breezy Mediterranean-inspired eatery Blanca , which would not be out of place in Mykonos – when it swooped into the Honeysuckle Precinct a few years ago, it caused heads to swivel. Say yasou to mezedes of crudo di mare and sheftalia and grilled Abrolhos Islands’ octopus.

One may also fantasise about being back in Europe – specifically the 10th arrondissement in Paris – at Frenchie , the oh-so-French bistro that offers Euro-chic elegance with an inventive Australian flair. Indulge in the Date Night set menu, available every Thursday.

Peregrin is another stand-out. Listen to the sound of the ocean from the rooftop terrace, and order a Summertime Sour during aperitivo hour. Followed by the yellowfin tuna with pickled cucumber and market fish. And brand new on the scene is Papalote – a joint venture from the incredibly talented owners of Humbug and Flotilla serving up tasty Mexican classics.

3. Casual coastal cafes and kiosks

people swimming at Newcastle Ocean Baths — Follow Newcastle’s coastline for stunning views and tasty eats. (Image: David Diehm)

What better way to soak in Newcastle’s legendary coastline and stunning beaches than by visiting its casual coastal eateries while on the Bathers Way?

Enjoy hot chips and scallops on the sand at Swell Kiosk Bar Beach . Or a housemade sausage roll after a morning surf at Newcastle Beach, thanks to Southy Canteen , which is open from 6am.

Bring your furry travel companion to Sunnyboy Kiosk for a piccolo and puppuccino with views out to Dixon Park Beach. Try light eats, like acai bowls, or more substantial meals like nasi goreng at Blue Door in Merewether. Do a few lazy laps at Merewether Ocean Baths (the largest in the southern hemisphere) before tucking into swordfish skewers and salad at Merewether Surfhouse .

You can also watch the ocean compose a bit of magic from your perch at The Kiosk Newcastle Beach , where a matcha latte looks even better with the beach fresco.

Pause between eats to take in the iconic Newcastle Ocean Baths and Bogey Hole – perfect for a digestive swim or scenic picnic spot.

4. Hatted restaurants in Newcastle

couple eating at Flotilla newcastle — Flotilla serves up delicious meals. (Image: Destination NSW)

In recent years, Newcastle’s restaurant scene has evolved to include venues that have elevated the city’s reputation for culinary excellence. In addition to its cafes and kiosks, there’s now an exciting wave of hatted favourites putting Newcastle on the map.

Humbug is the epitome of Novocastrian dining; the mafaldine with brisket and beef cheek braised in Pedro Ximenez is emblematic of what the owners aim for here. Flotilla neatly knits the Newcastle wining and dining scene together, with young gun Josh Thurston showcasing the art of cooking proteins and produce over fire.

Bistro Penny is another sophisticated, hatted dining destination in Newcastle. Order the barbecued king prawns swimming in a saffron broth and the oxheart tomato salad.

5. Newcastle nightlife

Bartholomew's small bar in newcastle nsw — Stop by Bartholomew’s for a drink. (Image: Destination NSW)

As the sun dips in the west, so the city of Newcastle’s nightlife springs to life. Maru Hi-Fi is the next-gen small bar that’s redefining a night out in Newy – the sleek space serves great cocktails and embraces Newcastle’s alt attitude. Next door, Jams Karaoke & Bar is also bringing the vibes.

If a small bar in a grand old building is more your style, check out Roxanne , Bar Mellow and Bartholomew’s .

Start planning your Newcastle culinary coastal getaway this summer at visitnewcastle.com.au.

Rising from the ashes: inside Southern Ocean Lodge’s stunning rebuild