Inside Southern Ocean Lodge's stunning rebuild

Embedded in the coastal wilderness of Kangaroo Island, the reimagined Southern Ocean Lodge celebrates community, creativity and place like never before.

You don’t forget your arrival at Southern Ocean Lodge. Almost five years since I was first here, I’m walking towards the double-entry doors again as they are swung open for the big reveal. Crossing the threshold, the coastal wilderness of the Southern Ocean is unveiled in all its raw, expansive glory: the lodge’s Great Room setting the stage for drama.

It’s a moment designed to evoke emotion. But the emotion is twofold for returning guests who, like me, visited this luxury lodge on the wave-carved south-west coast of Kangaroo Island before it was razed to the ground in the 2019-2020 Black Summer Bushfires.

A pioneer of luxury, sustainable and experiential tourism in South Australia, and – with its fierce community focus – a game changer for the island, Southern Ocean Lodge (a member of Luxury Lodges of Australia) had not long ago celebrated its 10th anniversary when the catastrophic fires struck. But within days, buoyed by the support of the tourism community and guests around the world, founders James and Hayley Baillie, of Baillie Lodges, committed to rebuild their flagship property.

sunrise views over Southern Ocean Lodge — Southern Ocean Lodge reopened in 2023 after being destroyed in the Black Summer Bushfires that devastated Kangaroo Island. (Image: George Apostolidis)

Southern Ocean Lodge 2.0 opened in December 2023, almost four years to the date of the fires. And it bears almost the same footprint as the original incarnation on the island’s limestone cliffs. The Baillies partnered with Kangaroo Island-born architect Max Pritchard and the team from Max Pritchard Gunner Architects to work on the rebuild along with several key designers.

The aim was to recreate the essence of the lodge and elements that had always worked well while adding new features and design alterations made with the benefit of hindsight. Underscoring everything, the new lodge needed to be futureproof: tackling the challenges of a changing climate and being embedded in the environment in an even more considered way.

Faithfully recreated to the point of uncanny – it feels like it never wasn’t here – the Great Room remains the beating heart of the lodge. Its sink-into-me Ghost Chairs are poised to take in 180-degree views through floor-to-ceiling windows and its cast iron suspended fireplace remains the centrepiece. Along with Sunshine, the kangaroo sculpture that greets you upon entry, made by local artist Indiana James from an old combine harvester, the fireplace was one of few items to survive the fire.

The lodge is a celebration of local creativity, community and place. Adelaide design master Khai Liew’s bespoke lounges that curl around the fireplace, taking cues from the undulating coastline, are among many considered design details.

The ‘help-yourself’ walk-in wine cellar – packed floor-to-ceiling with up to 1200 bottles sourced from across South Australia’s wine regions, including Kangaroo Island itself – was always a highlight for guests. It has now been rebuilt and restocked. I peruse the bottles – an installation depicting a shoal of Southern Ocean whiting by Adelaide glass-blowing artist Llewelyn Ash swimming above my head – and pick a Hobbs of Barossa Tin Lids Aria Secca shiraz to take to dinner.

a glass of gin from Kangaroo Island Spirits — The house gin was concocted by Kangaroo Island Spirits.

The restaurant flows on from the Great Room and boasts a 125-metre limestone feature wall crafted by Kangaroo Island resident Scott Wilson – a stonemason and also a sheep farmer and supplier of marron (freshwater crayfish) to the restaurant. Helmed by executive chef Tom Saliba, the lodge’s menus, too, are a celebration of local and regional produce.

a look inside the restaurant at Southern Ocean Lodge — Meals are served in the airy restaurant. (Image: George Apostolidis)

An ever-changing menu that rolls with the seasons might feature local King George whiting, saltbush gnocchi or Coorong beef. Tom maintains relationships with existing suppliers – such as the local Parndana Campus, where students sustainably farm barramundi, and Kangaroo Island Living Honey, which produces honey from the world’s only purebred colony of Ligurian bees.

a close-up of a dish at the restaurant inside Southern Ocean Lodge — The menu is driven by the seasons. (Image: George Apostolidis)

Chef Tom is excited to work with new suppliers in the community, such as Kangaroo Island Mushrooms and Juniper Rise, a produce garden that supplies microgreens and vegetables. Tom took the reins as executive chef at Southern Ocean Lodge just months before the fires and was committed to coming back from day one.

The intervening years saw stints in the kitchens of sister properties in the Baillie Lodges portfolio, such as Capella Lodge , Longitude 131° and Silky Oaks Lodge , in between return trips to the island to play a part in the rebuild. With each visit, Tom says, seeing the regeneration of not just nature, but local businesses and hearing about new suppliers opening up, was exciting. “And the homecoming has been great. To see the similarities but the differences as well," he says.

the pool at Southern Ocean Lodge — Enjoy a refreshing dip in between adventures. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Key differences at Southern Ocean Lodge lie in the addition of a wet-edge pool and a more spacious Southern Spa with three treatment rooms, a sauna, and hot and cold plunge pools. Further up the clifftop lies the new ultra-premium Baillie Pavilion, which can be booked as a whole four-bedroom residence or as two separate suites. It is the ultimate private retreat that emulates the feel of the lodge itself, complete with a scaled-down version of the Great Room.

the Great Room at Southern Ocean Lodge — The Great Room is the heart of the lodge.

The remaining 23 suites, which peel away down the coastline, have been reoriented to optimise views. Facing south-east, my Flinders Suite is a study in quiet luxury and intuitive design with a calming palette of neutral limestone, warm blackwood and storm blue inviting the outdoors to take centre stage.

the Flinders Suite lounge, Southern Ocean Lodge — A Flinders Suite looks out over the Southern Ocean. (Image: George Apostolidis)

My suite is ensconced in the coastal heath, and its sunken lounge, deep tub and private deck each provide optimal spots from which to take it all in. But nothing can compare to lying in a bespoke Baillie Bed in cloud-like linens watching the sun rise over the roiling ocean – next stop Antarctica, sea spray shimmering in the buttery first light – or falling asleep at night to a percussive lullaby of crashing waves.

Southern Ocean Lodge has always championed local artists, but 2.0 sees more bespoke commissions line its walls than ever. The signature kangaroo-print fabric from artist and designer Julie Paterson, of Cloth – which formed a foundational design element of the original lodge – has been lovingly reinstated in each guestroom and beyond. That her work is inspired by the strength and diversity of the Australian landscape is fitting.

relics from the collection of Artist JanineMackintosh — Artist Janine Mackintosh collected relics from the burnt site and arranged them into plaques.

Mandalas made by Kangaroo Island assemblage artist Janine Mackintosh from eucalyptus leaves, seeds and shells once again line the limestone walls of the restaurant, while a wall of found objects marks the entrance to the Southern Spa: remnants gathered from the aftermath of the fire that have been given new life and beauty. Elsewhere, Indiana James, too, has fashioned items found in the ashes, from stainless-steel lotion pumps to serving utensils, into a spirited metal lyrebird sculpture, Lyre Lyre Pans on Fire.

artwork details, Southern Ocean Lodge — The rooms boast contemporary artworks. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Taking a sneak peek at the Baillie Pavilion, I’m spellbound by a series of works by artists from the remote An-angu Pitjantjatjara Yankunytjatjara Lands in the north-western corner of South Australia that were commissioned by Hayley Baillie.

the Ocean Pavilion West, Southern Ocean Lodge — The Baillie Pavilion features paintings by artists from the APY Lands. (Image: George Apostolidis)

Completed following a visit to the site in 2021, these large-scale paintings swirl with life in an interpretation of the landscape I haven’t seen before.

one of the artworks displayed at Southern Ocean Lodge — Southern Ocean Lodge stands as a beacon of art and design. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Not the green, blue and surf-white triptych that floods the retina at first blink, but pink clay, lilac, plum, sage and all shades of sand. I make a mental note to take a close look at the landscape and the colours of its flora as I comb the coastal scrub myself.

the freestanding bath at Osprey Suite, Southern Ocean Lodge — The stunning Osprey Suite has ocean views from the freestanding bath. (Image: George Apostolidis)

Above all, Southern Ocean Lodge is a base from which to immerse yourself in its surrounding nature. We visit Seal Bay Conservation Park to observe its colony of sea lions porpoising in the surf and snoozing on the sand. And head into Flinders Chase National Park on a half-day Wonders of Kangaroo Island experience to visit the fur seals of Admirals Arch and the sculptural granite marvels – dusted with their distinctive orange lichen – known as Remarkable Rocks.

a portrait shot of a sea lion — Embark on a Seal Bay safari. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Ninety per cent of this national park at the western end of Kangaroo Island was destroyed in the bushfires, but the opening of a $19.5 million state-of-the-art visitor centre in July 2024 marked a significant milestone in bushfire recovery. And a signature Koalas and Kangas experience provides the chance to feel heartened by the bounce-back of our beloved marsupials at Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary and the historic property of Grassdale.

the view from the Clifftop Walk, Southern Ocean Lodge — The lodge comes into view from the Clifftop Walk. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

On my final morning here, I head out from the lodge on a clifftop walk through coastal heath, waves crashing vertiginously below while ospreys soar overhead. The return leg offers a fresh perspective as Southern Ocean Lodge comes back into view: its low profile hugging the contours of the coastline.

Among the raft of leading environmental initiatives ensuring the new-look lodge stays completely off-grid and fit for the future – including its hybrid solar and battery infrastructure, rainwater harvesting supplemented by a reverse osmosis system that converts bore water to fresh water, and a state-of-the-art bushfire sprinkler system – is a 20-metre wilderness buffer planted with fire-retardant native succulents and the island’s own endemic juniper.

Fresh growth is everywhere. But some chalky skeletal trees remain in the line of sight as a visible scar and a potent reminder of what went before. My eyes are pulled back down as I spot a pair of dolphins frolicking in the waves. I soon realise they are leading me back to Southern Ocean Lodge, which sits gently in the landscape like a lighthouse: a beacon of resilience and hope.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Just 15 kilometres from mainland South Australia, Kangaroo Island is accessible via a 40-minute Qantaslink flight from Adelaide/ Tarndanya or a 45-minute Sealink ferry transfer from Cape Jervis.

Staying there

A stay at Southern Ocean Lodge is all-inclusive of breakfast, lunch and dinner with menus that change daily, an open bar with premium wines and spirits and an in-suite bar that is replenished daily. Rates also include signature guided experiences of Kangaroo Island and return Kangaroo Island Airport transfers, including access to the lodge’s exclusive airport lounge before departure. The wheelchair-accessible Flinders Suite features level floors, a modified bathroom and close proximity to the main lodge. Rates start at $2950 per suite per night based on two guests staying. Southern Ocean Lodge is a member of Luxury Lodges of Australia.

Playing there

Signature Experiences include the half-day wonders of Kangaroo Island, Seal Bay Safari , Coastal Clifftop Walk , Koalas and Kangas , a guided tour of Kelly Hill Caves and a Taste of SA Wine . Experiences at additional cost include the four-hour remarkable hike , Nocturnal Explorer and Beach Fishing .

Hikers can also set out on a variety of self-guided walking trails that leave from the lodge doorstep, and those looking to explore further afield can book a full-day private itinerary with the lodge’s own experiences team, or renowned operators KI Touring Company and Exceptional Kangaroo Island . Don’t forget to peruse the Southern Spa menu of indulgent treatments that make the most of Kangaroo Island’s prized natural beauty products for a spot of TLC after all that adventuring.

From cabins to canvas, craft distillers to destination dining, Heathcote locals reveal their eco-savvy passions in ways that resonate with those seeking to travel lightly.

Heathcote , on traditional Taungurung Country in Central Victoria, is synonymous with its garnet-hued shiraz, but wine isn’t the only string to its bow. The town itself is sprinkled with heritage buildings from the gold rush era, and beyond that a growing collection of sustainable gastronomy and eco-friendly escapes. Nearby Bendigo, one of only 65 cities in the world recognised as a UNESCO Creative City and Region of Gastronomy, plates up an astonishing calibre of produce, wine and food for its size. Increasingly the entire region is taking up the challenge, though Heathcote in particular shines with its focus on sustainability.

Pink Cliffs GeologicalReserve — The dramatic landscape of Heathcote’s Pink Cliffs Geological Reserve. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Goodfrey)

The eco-stays bringing sustainability to Heathcote

Yellow BoxWood’s safari-style tents — Yellow Box Wood’s safari-style tents are nestled on 40 hectares of bushland. (Image: Emily Goodfrey)

Andee and Lisa Davidson spent years working in southern Africa before settling in Heathcote. “We had a vision of how this could be,” explains Andee. “We wanted a retreat, but one that was off-grid and environmentally sustainable.” Now, at Yellow Box Wood , two luxury safari-style tents are at the heart of 40 hectares of rolling hills and native bush, with kangaroos, wallabies, echidnas, goanna and birdlife aplenty. It’s all solar-powered, wood for the fire is mainly fallen timber, and water is collected on the carport roof. No lack of creature comforts though – en suite with rain shower, espresso coffee maker, comfy seating, wood-burning fire all set to go. There’s also a solar-heated, mineral salt pool in a bush setting, walking tracks, and even a mini bush golf course. On my visit, I put the vision to the test. Cocooned in the plush four-poster bed I can glimpse the stars, while the heater casts a golden glow on the canvas. In the morning, I wake to a blush-pink sunrise, kangaroos feeding and a soundtrack of magpies.

If a tent is not your style, Stephen and Cally Trompp’s carbon-neutral Mt Ida Eco Cabin might entice with its generous deck and farmland views. Inside the cabin, corrugated iron walls as rusty as a shearing shed, gleaming (recycled) floorboards, timber truss ceiling (crafted by Stephen), wood-fired heater and an old-school turntable with a pile of vinyls to spin. It’s fun, and a little boho. “Everything is recycled. The cabin takes maximum advantage of the sun in winter. It’s all solar-powered. Don’t panic, though,” says Stephen, “you can still charge your phone and get 4G reception!” Settle into an Adirondack chair on the deck or pedal off on a mountain bike to suss out the wineries.

A taste of Spain in Central Victoria

Another person with a vision is Evan Pritchard at his Three Dams Estate where the wines reflect his deep love of Spain and of Spanish-style grapes, such as tempranillo. Afternoons in the ‘wine shed’ or cantina are matched with music (flamenco is a favourite), Spanish bites from tapas to paella (with Evan on the pans!) and views to Mount Alexander. Sustainability is also a passion. “You don’t need to buy anything. We decided to be off-grid from the start, but it is a lifestyle change,” he says. “You need to think about it and be careful.” Everything here is recycled, reassembled, refurbished. Evan has an electric car (with solar-powered charger), solar-power for the winery, and even a jaunty little electric tractor/forklift. “I love the idea of all the things you can do using the sun.” Sipping a crisp rosado (a Spanish rosé) with Evan in the sunshine, I couldn’t agree more.

The vineyard redefining sustainable winemaking

Silver Spoon winery — The Silverspoon Estate winery is completely off-grid. (Image: Graham Hosking)

On the other side of Heathcote, Silver Spoon Estate demonstrates sustainability on a more extensive scale. Tracie and Peter Young’s winery, cellar door, award-winning restaurant and their own house are all solar-powered and off the grid. Sustainability is intrinsic to everything they do. The property sprawls across 100 hectares, with 20 hectares under vine – shiraz, viognier, grenache, tempranillo. As the climate has changed, so too has the approach. These are dry-grown vineyards. “We prune for drought. That means lower yields but more intense flavours,” says Peter. The fine-dining restaurant offers sweeping views, a wood-burning fire and a deck for languid lunches. Head chef Ben Hong sources regional, sustainable ingredients and weaves estate wines into the menu – think crispy wild mushroom arancini, viognier-infused chicken breast.

Silver Spoon’s award-winning restaurant.

Heathcote’s other hidden gems

Not all local wineries have a cellar door, but I find local treasures at the Heathcote Wine Hub , a petite 1855 timber church in the main street, lovingly returned to life by Karen Robertson and Carey Moncrieff. “Carey is a scrounger,” says Karen. “He doesn’t throw a single thing away.” He does, however, craft things into something quite special. Heritage floors, light-filtering lancet windows and shelves of regional wines create the perfect ambience for wine tasting. Or order a glass and linger over a cheese platter.

Heathcote is not all wine, of course. Nathan Wheat and partner Vanessa Curtis run Envy Distilling with a committed sustainable ethic – and a serious love of gin. Their small-batch distillery produces grape-based gin, and soon brandy. Distilled water is reused in an ingenious cooling system. All waste is treated on site. They buy excess wine from winemakers to distil and buy recycled barrels. “Distilling with the sun,” as Nathan says. Each Envy gin has its own story. Spicy, award-winning The Dry, is designed to capture the region’s dry, rugged nature. Pull up a stool at the bar (reclaimed timbers and tiles, of course), order a Gin Flight, or kick back with a cocktail and let Nathan share his eco journey.

Envy gins — Sample gins at small-batch distillery Envy.