Inside Southern Ocean Lodge's stunning rebuild

Embedded in the coastal wilderness of Kangaroo Island, the reimagined Southern Ocean Lodge celebrates community, creativity and place like never before.

You don’t forget your arrival at Southern Ocean Lodge. Almost five years since I was first here, I’m walking towards the double-entry doors again as they are swung open for the big reveal. Crossing the threshold, the coastal wilderness of the Southern Ocean is unveiled in all its raw, expansive glory: the lodge’s Great Room setting the stage for drama.

It’s a moment designed to evoke emotion. But the emotion is twofold for returning guests who, like me, visited this luxury lodge on the wave-carved south-west coast of Kangaroo Island before it was razed to the ground in the 2019-2020 Black Summer Bushfires.

A pioneer of luxury, sustainable and experiential tourism in South Australia, and – with its fierce community focus – a game changer for the island, Southern Ocean Lodge (a member of Luxury Lodges of Australia) had not long ago celebrated its 10th anniversary when the catastrophic fires struck. But within days, buoyed by the support of the tourism community and guests around the world, founders James and Hayley Baillie, of Baillie Lodges, committed to rebuild their flagship property.

sunrise views over Southern Ocean Lodge — Southern Ocean Lodge reopened in 2023 after being destroyed in the Black Summer Bushfires that devastated Kangaroo Island. (Image: George Apostolidis)

Southern Ocean Lodge 2.0 opened in December 2023, almost four years to the date of the fires. And it bears almost the same footprint as the original incarnation on the island’s limestone cliffs. The Baillies partnered with Kangaroo Island-born architect Max Pritchard and the team from Max Pritchard Gunner Architects to work on the rebuild along with several key designers.

The aim was to recreate the essence of the lodge and elements that had always worked well while adding new features and design alterations made with the benefit of hindsight. Underscoring everything, the new lodge needed to be futureproof: tackling the challenges of a changing climate and being embedded in the environment in an even more considered way.

Faithfully recreated to the point of uncanny – it feels like it never wasn’t here – the Great Room remains the beating heart of the lodge. Its sink-into-me Ghost Chairs are poised to take in 180-degree views through floor-to-ceiling windows and its cast iron suspended fireplace remains the centrepiece. Along with Sunshine, the kangaroo sculpture that greets you upon entry, made by local artist Indiana James from an old combine harvester, the fireplace was one of few items to survive the fire.

The lodge is a celebration of local creativity, community and place. Adelaide design master Khai Liew’s bespoke lounges that curl around the fireplace, taking cues from the undulating coastline, are among many considered design details.

The ‘help-yourself’ walk-in wine cellar – packed floor-to-ceiling with up to 1200 bottles sourced from across South Australia’s wine regions, including Kangaroo Island itself – was always a highlight for guests. It has now been rebuilt and restocked. I peruse the bottles – an installation depicting a shoal of Southern Ocean whiting by Adelaide glass-blowing artist Llewelyn Ash swimming above my head – and pick a Hobbs of Barossa Tin Lids Aria Secca shiraz to take to dinner.

a glass of gin from Kangaroo Island Spirits — The house gin was concocted by Kangaroo Island Spirits.

The restaurant flows on from the Great Room and boasts a 125-metre limestone feature wall crafted by Kangaroo Island resident Scott Wilson – a stonemason and also a sheep farmer and supplier of marron (freshwater crayfish) to the restaurant. Helmed by executive chef Tom Saliba, the lodge’s menus, too, are a celebration of local and regional produce.

a look inside the restaurant at Southern Ocean Lodge — Meals are served in the airy restaurant. (Image: George Apostolidis)

An ever-changing menu that rolls with the seasons might feature local King George whiting, saltbush gnocchi or Coorong beef. Tom maintains relationships with existing suppliers – such as the local Parndana Campus, where students sustainably farm barramundi, and Kangaroo Island Living Honey, which produces honey from the world’s only purebred colony of Ligurian bees.

a close-up of a dish at the restaurant inside Southern Ocean Lodge — The menu is driven by the seasons. (Image: George Apostolidis)

Chef Tom is excited to work with new suppliers in the community, such as Kangaroo Island Mushrooms and Juniper Rise, a produce garden that supplies microgreens and vegetables. Tom took the reins as executive chef at Southern Ocean Lodge just months before the fires and was committed to coming back from day one.

The intervening years saw stints in the kitchens of sister properties in the Baillie Lodges portfolio, such as Capella Lodge, Longitude 131° and Silky Oaks Lodge, in between return trips to the island to play a part in the rebuild. With each visit, Tom says, seeing the regeneration of not just nature, but local businesses and hearing about new suppliers opening up, was exciting. “And the homecoming has been great. To see the similarities but the differences as well," he says.

the pool at Southern Ocean Lodge — Enjoy a refreshing dip in between adventures. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Key differences at Southern Ocean Lodge lie in the addition of a wet-edge pool and a more spacious Southern Spa with three treatment rooms, a sauna, and hot and cold plunge pools. Further up the clifftop lies the new ultra-premium Baillie Pavilion, which can be booked as a whole four-bedroom residence or as two separate suites. It is the ultimate private retreat that emulates the feel of the lodge itself, complete with a scaled-down version of the Great Room.

the Great Room at Southern Ocean Lodge — The Great Room is the heart of the lodge.

The remaining 23 suites, which peel away down the coastline, have been reoriented to optimise views. Facing south-east, my Flinders Suite is a study in quiet luxury and intuitive design with a calming palette of neutral limestone, warm blackwood and storm blue inviting the outdoors to take centre stage.

the Flinders Suite lounge, Southern Ocean Lodge — A Flinders Suite looks out over the Southern Ocean. (Image: George Apostolidis)

My suite is ensconced in the coastal heath, and its sunken lounge, deep tub and private deck each provide optimal spots from which to take it all in. But nothing can compare to lying in a bespoke Baillie Bed in cloud-like linens watching the sun rise over the roiling ocean – next stop Antarctica, sea spray shimmering in the buttery first light – or falling asleep at night to a percussive lullaby of crashing waves.

Southern Ocean Lodge has always championed local artists, but 2.0 sees more bespoke commissions line its walls than ever. The signature kangaroo-print fabric from artist and designer Julie Paterson, of Cloth – which formed a foundational design element of the original lodge – has been lovingly reinstated in each guestroom and beyond. That her work is inspired by the strength and diversity of the Australian landscape is fitting.

relics from the collection of Artist JanineMackintosh — Artist Janine Mackintosh collected relics from the burnt site and arranged them into plaques.

Mandalas made by Kangaroo Island assemblage artist Janine Mackintosh from eucalyptus leaves, seeds and shells once again line the limestone walls of the restaurant, while a wall of found objects marks the entrance to the Southern Spa: remnants gathered from the aftermath of the fire that have been given new life and beauty. Elsewhere, Indiana James, too, has fashioned items found in the ashes, from stainless-steel lotion pumps to serving utensils, into a spirited metal lyrebird sculpture, Lyre Lyre Pans on Fire.

artwork details, Southern Ocean Lodge — The rooms boast contemporary artworks. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Taking a sneak peek at the Baillie Pavilion, I’m spellbound by a series of works by artists from the remote An-angu Pitjantjatjara Yankunytjatjara Lands in the north-western corner of South Australia that were commissioned by Hayley Baillie.

the Ocean Pavilion West, Southern Ocean Lodge — The Baillie Pavilion features paintings by artists from the APY Lands. (Image: George Apostolidis)

Completed following a visit to the site in 2021, these large-scale paintings swirl with life in an interpretation of the landscape I haven’t seen before.

one of the artworks displayed at Southern Ocean Lodge — Southern Ocean Lodge stands as a beacon of art and design. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Not the green, blue and surf-white triptych that floods the retina at first blink, but pink clay, lilac, plum, sage and all shades of sand. I make a mental note to take a close look at the landscape and the colours of its flora as I comb the coastal scrub myself.

the freestanding bath at Osprey Suite, Southern Ocean Lodge — The stunning Osprey Suite has ocean views from the freestanding bath. (Image: George Apostolidis)

Above all, Southern Ocean Lodge is a base from which to immerse yourself in its surrounding nature. We visit Seal Bay Conservation Park to observe its colony of sea lions porpoising in the surf and snoozing on the sand. And head into Flinders Chase National Park on a half-day Wonders of Kangaroo Island experience to visit the fur seals of Admirals Arch and the sculptural granite marvels – dusted with their distinctive orange lichen – known as Remarkable Rocks.

a portrait shot of a sea lion — Embark on a Seal Bay safari. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

Ninety per cent of this national park at the western end of Kangaroo Island was destroyed in the bushfires, but the opening of a $19.5 million state-of-the-art visitor centre in July 2024 marked a significant milestone in bushfire recovery. And a signature Koalas and Kangas experience provides the chance to feel heartened by the bounce-back of our beloved marsupials at Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary and the historic property of Grassdale.

the view from the Clifftop Walk, Southern Ocean Lodge — The lodge comes into view from the Clifftop Walk. (Image: Imogen Eveson)

On my final morning here, I head out from the lodge on a clifftop walk through coastal heath, waves crashing vertiginously below while ospreys soar overhead. The return leg offers a fresh perspective as Southern Ocean Lodge comes back into view: its low profile hugging the contours of the coastline.

Among the raft of leading environmental initiatives ensuring the new-look lodge stays completely off-grid and fit for the future – including its hybrid solar and battery infrastructure, rainwater harvesting supplemented by a reverse osmosis system that converts bore water to fresh water, and a state-of-the-art bushfire sprinkler system – is a 20-metre wilderness buffer planted with fire-retardant native succulents and the island’s own endemic juniper.

Fresh growth is everywhere. But some chalky skeletal trees remain in the line of sight as a visible scar and a potent reminder of what went before. My eyes are pulled back down as I spot a pair of dolphins frolicking in the waves. I soon realise they are leading me back to Southern Ocean Lodge, which sits gently in the landscape like a lighthouse: a beacon of resilience and hope.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Just 15 kilometres from mainland South Australia, Kangaroo Island is accessible via a 40-minute Qantaslink flight from Adelaide/ Tarndanya or a 45-minute Sealink ferry transfer from Cape Jervis.

Staying there

A stay at Southern Ocean Lodge is all-inclusive of breakfast, lunch and dinner with menus that change daily, an open bar with premium wines and spirits and an in-suite bar that is replenished daily. Rates also include signature guided experiences of Kangaroo Island and return Kangaroo Island Airport transfers, including access to the lodge’s exclusive airport lounge before departure. The wheelchair-accessible Flinders Suite features level floors, a modified bathroom and close proximity to the main lodge. Rates start at $2950 per suite per night based on two guests staying. Southern Ocean Lodge is a member of Luxury Lodges of Australia.

Playing there

Signature Experiences include the half-day wonders of Kangaroo Island, Seal Bay Safari, Coastal Clifftop Walk, Koalas and Kangas, a guided tour of Kelly Hill Caves and a Taste of SA Wine. Experiences at additional cost include the four-hour remarkable hike, Nocturnal Explorer and Beach Fishing.

Hikers can also set out on a variety of self-guided walking trails that leave from the lodge doorstep, and those looking to explore further afield can book a full-day private itinerary with the lodge’s own experiences team, or renowned operators KI Touring Company and Exceptional Kangaroo Island. Don’t forget to peruse the Southern Spa menu of indulgent treatments that make the most of Kangaroo Island’s prized natural beauty products for a spot of TLC after all that adventuring.

Video credit: Tourism Australia

From coast to mountains, hiking in Gippsland offers a stunning array of landscapes, with trails that take you deep into the region’s heritage.

I step out onto the sand and it cries out underfoot. Kweek! I take another step and there’s another little yelp. Screet! Picking up the pace, the sounds follow me like my shadow, all the way down to the water. It’s obvious how this spot got its name – Squeaky Beach – from the rounded grains of quartz that make the distinctive sounds under pressure.

For many, Wilsons Promontory National Park is the gateway to Gippsland, and the best way to explore it is by walking its network of hiking trails, from coastal gems such as Squeaky Beach through to the bushland, among the wildlife. But it’s still just a taste of what you’ll find on foot in the region.

Venture a bit further into Gippsland and you’ll discover the lakes, the rainforest, and the alpine peaks, each changing with the season and offering summer strolls or winter walks. Just like that squeaky sand, each step along these trails has something to tell you: perhaps a story about an ancient spirit or a pioneering search for fortune.

The best coastal hikes in Gippsland

sunset at Wilsons Promontory National Park — Wilsons Promontory National Park is a sprawling wilderness with many coastal bushland trails. (Image: Mark Watson)

Wilsons Promontory National Park (or ‘The Prom’, as you’ll end up calling it) is an easy three-hour drive from Melbourne, but you might ditch the car when you arrive, with much of the park’s 50,000 hectares accessible only by foot. From the inky water of Tidal River (dyed dark purple by abundant tea trees), I like the easy walks along the coast, among lichen-laden granite boulders, to golden beaches and bays.

a couple on Mount Oberon — Panoramic views from the summit of Mount Oberon. (Image: Everyday Nicky)

The trail to the panoramic views at the summit of Mount Oberon is a bit harder, up steep timber and granite steps, but it’s a popular 6.8-kilometre return. The more remote hikes are found through the open banksia and stringybark woodland of the park’s north, or along the multi-day Southern Circuit, which ranges from about 35 to 52 kilometres, with sunrises and sunsets, kangaroos and cockatoos, and maybe even whales.

a golden sand beach at Wilsons Promontory National Park — Walk ‘The Prom’s’ golden sand beaches. (Image: Tourism Australia/Time Out Australia)

You might also see whales on the George Bass Coastal Walk, even closer to Melbourne on the western edge of Gippsland. This dramatic seven-kilometre trail along the clifftops takes in sweeping views of the wild ocean, occasionally dipping down from grassy green hills to coastal gullies and a secluded beach. It also now links into the Bass Coast Rail Trail for an extra 14 kilometres.

Over at the eastern edge of Gippsland, in Croajingolong National Park, you can wander along the lakeshores beneath koalas and around goannas (I keep my distance since one chased me here!). For those who are even more adventurous, the park is also the starting point for the 100-kilometre Wilderness Coast Walk, usually done over seven days.

the Croajingolong National Park, Gippsland — Wander along the lakeshores in Croajingolong National Park. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The best bush hikes in Gippsland

the Baw Baw National Park — The alpine heath of Baw Baw National Park. (Image: Everyday Nicky)

Deep in the Long Tunnel Extended Gold Mine at Walhalla, mining guide Richard tells me how this small town in the mountains east of Melbourne boomed when prospectors found gold here in 1862. These days, you’ll find most of the town’s treasure – its heritage – above ground, with the Walhalla Tramline Walk a wonderful way to explore it.

Just seven kilometres long, the walk takes you through decades of Gold Rush history, following the original rail trail from lush bushland to the mining sites, and through the charming village of just 20 residents with its wooden cottages and old shopfronts adorned with turn-of-the-century advertising posters. Blazing a trail where trailblazers once opened up the region, this is also the starting point for the 650-kilometre Australian Alps Walking Track.

Nearby, Baw Baw National Park has walks through gnarled snow gums and alpine heaths that show off the colourful wildflowers in summer and the pristine carpet of white in winter. Several trails are perfect for snowshoes, including a 45-minute route from St Gwinear up to vast views across the Latrobe Valley.

Further up into the mountains, the Toorongo and Amphitheatre Falls Loop Walk is an easy 2.2-kilometre path that serenades you with the sound of flowing water as you pass mossy rocks and tree ferns en route to two sets of waterfalls cascading over boulders in the remote wilderness.

The best cultural hikes in Gippsland

the Mitchell River National Park, Gippsland — Hike the Mitchell River National Park. (Image: Parks Victoria/Grace Lewis)

Across a pool in a natural sandstone amphitheatre, deep within a cave behind a waterfall, it’s said the Nargun has its lair. A fierce creature, half human and half stone, that abducts children and can’t be harmed by boomerangs or spears, the story of the Nargun has been told around the campfires of the local Gunaikurnai people for generations.

As a culturally significant place for women, hikers are asked not to go into the Den of Nargun, but a 3.4-kilometre loop walk leads you through a rainforest gully to the entrance where you can feel the powerful atmosphere here in Mitchell River National Park, along Victoria’s largest remaining wild and free-flowing waterway.

the bee-eaters at Mitchell River National Park — Bee-eaters at Mitchell River National Park. (Image: Parks Victoria/Grace Lewis)

The Den of Nargun is part of the Bataluk Cultural Trail, a series of important traditional Gunaikurnai sites through central Gippsland. Another location is Victoria’s largest cave system, Buchan Caves Reserve, with trails to important archaeological sites of human artefacts up to 18,000 years old. The FJ Wilson Interpreted Walk includes the naturally sculpted white limestone steps of the 400-metre-long Federal Cave, while the Granite Pools Walk goes among tall timber and moss-covered gullies.

the ancient rainforest of Tarra-Bulga National Park — The ancient rainforest of Tarra-Bulga National Park. (Image: Josie Withers)

Also important to the Gunaikurnai people is Tarra-Bulga National Park, known for its ancient myrtle beeches and enormous mountain ash trees. Just 40 minutes return, the Tarra Valley Rainforest Walk offers a taste of this verdant landscape, while the Grand Strzelecki Track takes you deep into the lost world of forest giants on an epic 100-kilometre trail rich with tradition.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

the WildernessRetreats in The Prom — Wilderness Retreats in The Prom. (Image: Christian Pearson)

Wilderness Retreats in Wilsons Promontory offers glamping-style tents with luxurious queen beds. Star Hotel is a reconstruction of a Gold Rush-era hotel from 1863 in the heart of heritage Walhalla. Caves House is a historic three-bedroom house with views over the Buchan River.

Eating there

the Carrajung Estate, Gippsland — Enjoy a post-hike lunch at Carrajung Estate. (Image: Everyday Nicky)

Kilcunda General Store serves great coffee and meals of local produce at the George Bass Coastal Walk. Alpine Trout Farm is located near Toorongo Falls in Noojee. Fish for your own lunch and barbecue it with the provided cookware.

Carrajung Estate is a short drive from Tarra-Bulga National Park. The winery’s restaurant offers a seasonal menu of regional ingredients and you can stay at The Lodge.

a seafood feast at Carrajung Estate, Gippsland — The table is set for a seafood feast at the estate.

Video credit: Tourism Australia

Rising from the ashes: inside Southern Ocean Lodge’s stunning rebuild

Embedded in the coastal wilderness of Kangaroo Island, the reimagined Southern Ocean Lodge celebrates community, creativity and place like never before.