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Mona’s new library opens with a First Folio, a Bowie manuscript, a children’s cave and no fixed order

Credit: Mona

David Walsh’s library is many things. Conventional isn’t one of them. Meet Phrontisterion.

Hobart’s wonderfully weird Museum of Old and New Art, Mona, has opened Phrontisterion, a library named after an Aristophanes piss-take that houses Shakespeare’s First Folio, a Bowie handwritten document, and your next favourite rabbit hole.

David Walsh has never done anything the obvious way. So, when Mona’s founder decided to open a library inside his Hobart museum, naturally it would be named after an ancient Greek word for “thinkery," housed in a sandstone cave beneath a concrete amphitheatre, and run on technology that – as far as anyone knows – doesn’t exist anywhere else on earth.

Phrontisterion opened to the public on 21 June, and it is, by any measure, a lot.

Mona library Phrontisterion exterior
Phrontisterion is the most David Walsh thing David Walsh has ever done. (Credit: Mona)

The name comes from Aristophanes’ Clouds, a comedy skewering the self-certainty of the educated. Walsh, who grew up poor and credits his first library card as “the great leveller," seems to relish the joke. The library is serious about ideas and refuses to take itself seriously – which is, at this point, basically the Mona brand.

The collection spans topics as varied as ancient brewing methods, Antarctic exploration, charcuterie, casinos, and sex. There’s a Shakespeare First Folio. A second edition of Newton’s Opticks. The sixth and final edition of Darwin’s Origin of Species produced in the author’s lifetime. Books signed by Umberto Eco, J.G. Ballard, and Hunter S. Thompson. Handwritten documents by Balzac, Bowie, Whitman, Flaubert, Einstein, Newton, Marconi and Alexander Graham Bell.

Mona library Phrontisterion interior
The library has no fixed system. (Credit: Mona)

Mona’s librarian, Mary Lijnzaad, offers perhaps the most irresistible pitch for the place: “If you want to know what David is really like, browse his bookshelves."

The technology holding it all together is the real coup. Built by Art Processors – the team behind Mona’s O app – the system ditches the Dewey Decimal classification entirely.

“David’s brief was simple: let us put a book anywhere and still find it," said Nic Whyte, who led development. “So, we’ve built a library with no fixed order that stays completely navigable. As far as we know, that doesn’t exist anywhere else."

Mona library Phrontisterion David Bowie
Find a handwritten document by David Bowie. (Credit: Mona)

A digital reader lets visitors engage with objects too rare to touch. The physical spaces are just as considered: a map room, a study, a lounge, and – for younger visitors – a cave-like children’s library stocked partly from the personal collections of Walsh’s daughters Grace and Sunday, complete with crannies full of curios and an Ames illusion room. Artworks by Matthew Barney, Julian Charrière and others line the walls. A blacksmith named Pete Mattila made the desk, the staircase, and the chandeliers.

Mona library Phrontisterion children's library
A cave-like children’s library is a highlight. (Credit: Mona)

Phrontisterion connects to Mona’s existing buildings through tunnels cut into sandstone. It sits beneath Elektra, Anselm Kiefer’s inverted-ziggurat concrete amphitheatre – which is to say, it’s buried under a monumental artwork, inside a museum built into a cliff, on a peninsula jutting into the Derwent River.

As places to read go, it’s not exactly your local branch.

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Details

Mona library Phrontisterion couches
While away the hours at Phrontisterion. (Credit: Mona)

Opening hours: Thursday to Monday, 10am to 5pm

Entry: Included with a museum ticket ($39 for an adult)

Can I borrow books? No, Phrontisterion is a reference library.

Where: 655 Main Road, Berridale, Hobart

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Emily Murphy
Emily Murphy is Australian Traveller's Email & Social Editor, and in her time at the company she has been instrumental in shaping its social media and email presence, and crafting compelling narratives that inspire others to explore Australia's vast landscapes. Her previous role was a journalist at Prime Creative Media and before that she was freelancing in publishing, content creation and digital marketing. When she's not creating scroll-stopping travel content, Em is a devoted 'bun mum' and enjoys spending her spare time by the sea, reading, binge-watching a good TV show and exploring Sydney's vibrant dining scene. Next on her Aussie travel wish list? Tasmania and The Kimberley.
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5 of the best day trips from Hobart

(Credit: Samuel Shelley)

    Rachel Lay Rachel Lay
    Hobart has quietly become our coolest capital, but the real wonder lies just beyond the city limits.

    In the cool shade of Kunyani/ Mt Wellington, Hobart has earned a reputation. Home to culture-defining Dark MOFO, the city blends rugged, raw wilderness and rule-breaking galleries. But, step beyond the thrumming capital’s border and you’ll find a new perspective: historic towns, Jurassic-era cliffs and a UNESCO City of Gastronomy. Fill your days with epicurean odysseys and wild scenery on the best day trips from Hobart.

    Where to stay

    Hobart stay with sleek style at Mövenpick hotel
    Elevate your Hobart stay with sleek style at Mövenpick.

    Behind every good road trip is the perfect home base. Somewhere central to review your camera roll, make the most of Hobart’s dining scene and relax before setting off again.

    For modern, Tasmanian-inspired design, book a stay at the Movenpick Hotel Hobart. Standing at the Salamanca Markets, look to the Hobart skyline, and the award-winning hotel will catch your eye. As the third-tallest building in the CBD, the views across the harbour toward Antarctica are totally unique from your room. Here, end each day at the daily free chocolate hour (plus a free Movenpick ice cream for the little ones).

    For a more budget-conscious option, head to the picture book, sandstone buildings of Macquarie Street. Nestled along the buzzing, historic streetscape, you’ll find Tasmania’s biggest hotel: the Ibis Styles. Return home each day to defrost in one of the hotel’s two saunas. Make use of the proximity to MONA, or take an easy stroll to the candy-coloured cottages of Battery Point between your adventures.

    1. Bruny Island

    Bruny Island Neck is an isthmus of land connecting north and south Bruny Island.
    Begin your adventure with a climb and a view. (Credit: Elise Weaver)

    Craggy cliffs and tropical-hued, white sand beaches signal your arrival to Bruny Island/ Lunawanna-Alonnah.

    Start your day trip at the island’s most iconic spot, the Neck Game Reserve. Scale the Trunganini steps to gaze out over the teensy stretch of land that juts through the sea connecting the two ends of the island.

    Catch a rare glimpse of the white-furred wallabies that call Bruny Island home at Adventure Bay. Then, for ocean-fresh oysters, pull into the drive-thru window at Get Shucked. Sample Bruny Island cheese at the cellar door before catching the ferry home with an esky full of local produce.

    2. Mount Wellington

    Mount Wellington Summit tasmania
    Climb through alpine forest to the summit. (Credit: Samuel Shelley)

    At 1271 metres, Mount Wellington watches protectively over Hobart. Follow the winding road to climb through alpine forest and tufts of snow to reach the summit. Gaze down over Hobart and out to sea, or over your shoulder to the southwestern wilderness.

    Reset your adrenaline with a mountain bike ride back down. Or, make like the locals and head into the mountain on foot. Try the hike to the Jurassic-period Organ Pipes, which slips under the mountain’s magnificent dolerite cliffs (perfect for families thanks to the trail’s minimal incline).

    For a view of Mount Wellington itself, hike nearby Cathedral Rock.

    2. Port Arthur

    Port Arthur tasmania
    Wander through convict-built grounds and gardens. (Credit: Alastair Bett)

    Constructed entirely by convicts, the manicured gardens and penal buildings of Port Arthur offer a day trip that practically hums with history.

    The rugged, seagirt location was chosen for its difficult escape conditions. Now, you can cruise the coast below the towering, jagged cliffs of the Tasman National Park or wander the sloping fields of fragrant lavender.

    Tickets to Port Arthur include a walking tour and harbour cruise. See the Isle of the Dead where 1000 men are buried in marked and unmarked graves. And Point Puer, Britain’s first prison for children.

    3. Launceston

    Duck Reach Power Station Bridge Cataract Gorge launceston
    Walk the sunlit paths of Cataract Gorge. (Credit: Nick H Visuals)

    You’ll find Launceston at the confluence of three rivers after an easy 2.5-hour drive from Hobart. Launceston is a patchwork of old and new. Here, heritage streetscapes meet modern architecture.

    Visit Cataract Gorge, the green, sun-dappled heart of the town and sacred meeting point for Tasmania’s indigenous communities. Pull up at roadside produce stalls that dot the Tamar Valley, or dine out. Launceston is, after all, a UNESCO City of Gastronomy.

    Should the local wine scene persuade you, simply extend your time in Launceston at Peppers Silo (but definitely at least stop by the onsite restaurant, Grain of the Silo, for a farm fresh menu) or Mercure Launceston before heading back to Hobart.

    4. Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary

    woman with wombat at Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary
    Snap a cuddle-worthy encounter. (Credit: Tourism Australia)

    Take a 35-minute drive from your hotel and you’ll find Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary. This social enterprise is run by a team of extremely passionate Tasmanians with a mission to look after critically endangered species who have found sanctuary here after facing extinction on the mainland.

    Choose to wander the sanctuary at your own pace or join a guided tour (free with your ticket) to come face to face with Tassie’s most iconic species. Tasmanian Devils, wombats and echidnas are part of the free tour. You can book up close encounters with your favourite animals, too.

    5. Richmond Village & Coal River Valley

    Richmond is a picture-perfect town in the Coal River Valley wine region, offering a glimpse into early colonial life, one of the best day trips from Hobart.
    Trace the river through history and wine country. (Credit: Alastair Bett)

    Richmond is a town that belongs in a snow globe. Fifty colonial-era, Georgian buildings have been painstakingly restored and turned into cafes, cosy restaurants and galleries. Visit Richmond Gaol, said to be the home of a prisoner so vile he inspired Charles Dickens to pen Oliver Twist’s Fagin.

    Then, follow the Coal River as it flows past grassy, duckling-dotted knolls and under the iconic Richmond Bridge, the oldest bridge in Australia. From the crest of the bridge, see the oldest Catholic Church in Australia. The river crawls past many cellar doors, perfect for a day of wine tasting.