The best places to stay on Christmas Island

From a luxury eco lodge to a room at an inn known for its sunsets, here are 11 of the best places to stay on Christmas Island.

There is a lot to see and do on Christmas Island. But when you do find time to catch your breath and recover from your day’s adventures, you will need to find somewhere to enjoy some quiet time and creature comforts. Whether you want to live it up at Swell Lodge, one of the most unique places to stay in WA, or you want to hole up in a more humble Airbnb abode, or a boutique Balinese-style retreat will most likely depend on your budget. Much of the accommodation on Christmas Island centres around Settlement, Poon Saan and Kampong and each offers something different. Here are some of the best places to stay on Christmas Island.

Deserted beach, Beach walking tour, Christmas Island, Australia — There’s plenty to see on Christmas Island and finding accommodation in the heart of it all is easy.

Swell Lodge

The first thing that hits you as you walk into one of the two glass-fronted eco chalets that make up Swell Lodge is the immensity of the sea and sky.

Tucked away deep in Christmas Island National Park, Swell Lodge is perched on the edge of one of the island’s jagged sea cliffs overlooking the Indian Ocean. And when there is a swell running, it’s right in position, with the ocean stirring up a thundering crescendo in surround sound.

Swell Lodge Christmas Island — Enjoy pristine views from your luxury abode at Swell Lodge.

Eco-conscious travellers will love the fact the lodge is solar powered and runs a carbon-neutral program that includes offsetting emissions from its crab-safe lodge vehicle. A stay at Swell Lodge is all about secluded luxury, and includes your own private chef.

Best for: Solo travellers or couples.

Aerial shot of Swell Lodge, Christmas Island, Australia — Swell Lodge is perched on the edge of one of the island’s jagged sea cliffs.

Christmas Island Bali Style Retreat

Although Christmas Island is an Australian territory, it’s nearest neighbour is Indonesia, which means a breezy Balinese-style retreat feels right at home here.

The Christmas Island Bali Style Retreat enjoys elevated ocean views from its position on Phosphate Hill near the small township of Poon Saan. Sit on the expansive deck to soak up some sun and enjoy a drink while drinking in the soothing palette of blue sky and turquoise seas.

The retreat, which accommodates up to six people, is within five to 10 minutes of the town in Settlement and Flying Fish Cove and many of Christmas Island’s best restaurants and bars.

Best for: Families or groups.

Christmas Island Bali Style Retreat, Christmas Island, Australia — A breezy Balinese-style retreat feels right at home here.

The Cocos Padang Lodge

This refurbished heritage accommodation is a welcome addition on Christmas Island. The original building, which was typical of post-Second World War accommodation, was provided to its Cocos Malay workers by the Christmas Island Phosphate Mine until the 1960s.

All up, there are four self-contained apartments within walking distance to the local supermarket and the iconic Golden Bosun Tavern, one of the best places to eat on Christmas Island. Guests of the Cocos Padang Lodge are able to use the BBQ facilities at The Sunset.

Best for: Families or couples.

Cocos Padang Christmas Island accommodation — The Cocos Padang Lodge is a welcome addition to the Christmas Island accommodation offering.

Captain’s Last Resort

One of the biggest highlights of staying at the Captain’s Last Resort on Christmas Island is the frigatebirds-eye’s view over the water. Keep your binoculars handy, as there is a lot of activity, from spinner dolphins lining up in pods to perform synchronised routines to a diverse array of birdlife pootling past the window.

After spending the day enjoying some of the best wilderness walks on Christmas Island, wander down to the main tourism precinct to meet some of the eccentric and warm-hearted locals.

The one-bedroom cottage is best-suited to singles and couples who enjoy exploring off the beaten track.

Best for: Solo travellers and couples.

Exterior, Captain's Last Resort, Christmas Island Accommodation, Australia — The one-bedroom cottage is best suited to those who enjoy exploring off the beaten track.

Diver’s Villa

The reefs off Christmas Island are considered to be one of nature’s great masterpieces amid the scuba diving community, and this villa, built in the 1930s, is designed to accommodate groups who want to share an underwater adventure.

The Diver’s Villa is one of the last pre-war bungalows built by the Christmas Island Phosphate Company that is still standing and the refurbished space, known on the island as Married Quarters 8 has been decorated in a contemporary colonial style.

We love that you can source seasonal ingredients from the garden such as papaya, coconuts, lemongrass, mint, lime and bananas. All up, there are four bedrooms and there is another one-bedroom waterfront villa, Sea Spray , which can also be rented out.

Best for: A group getaway.

Diver's Villa, Christmas Island, Australia — Diver’s Villa is one of the last pre-war bungalows.

CI Apartments

When WA residents pressed pause on their international travel plans, they started rediscovering the wonders of WA, with Christmas Island perfectly positioned to cater to adventurous travellers. Enter CI Apartments, which offers contemporary-style accommodation and a range of one-, two-, or three-bedroom apartments.

Comfy digs with a view are one thing, but there’s no substitute for location: after a busy day exploring Christmas Island, you will be grateful for the mini supermarket and Chinese restaurant across the road.

CI Apartments are also within a Malteser’s lob of the outdoor cinema, one of the best things to do on Christmas Island.

Best for: There are apartments to suit solo travellers, couples and families.

Exterior of CI Apartments, Christmas Island, Australia — CI Apartments offer contemporary-style accommodation.

Coconut Cottage

One of the latest additions to Christmas Island’s accommodation offering, Coconut Cottage is light and bright and, true to its name, shaded by coconut trees.

A secluded retreat in the main Settlement area of the island, it comes complete with views of the Indian Ocean and is set against a backdrop of wild national park.

Best for: Families or couples.

Coconut Cottage is an accommodation offering on Christmas Island — Check into Coconut Cottage, shaded by palms.

The Sunset

If watching the sun sink over the ocean is your idea of luxury, then The Sunset will do nicely. Located along the waterfront in the beating heart of the Settlement township, Sunset offers unobstructed views of the ocean and its name is fitting when you’re afforded a front-row view of the sun dipping over the Indian Ocean from your balcony.

The pool at Sunset on Christmas Island — Take a dip in the pool to soak up the ocean views during your stay at Sunset.

The Sunset also has a pool, which isn’t exactly necessary with the big blue on your doorstep, but is greatly appreciated when you want a quick cool-off after exploring the wilderness.

Best for: Couples and solo travellers.

Sunset at Christmas Island, Australia — If watching the sun sink over the ocean is your idea of luxury, then The Sunset will do nicely.

The Retreat, Roundabout Retreat & Breeze Inn

This three-bedroom, centrally located unit is spacious and comfortable with a verandah overlooking the Indian Ocean.

Bid a hasty retreat to The Retreat when the sun is poised high in the sky to watch birds cruising by on the flight path. The Retreat is air-conditioned and has complimentary wi-fi and includes two queen beds and one room with twin singles.

While the best places to eat around Christmas Island are scattered nearby, there is a self-contained kitchen so you can whip up a feast and dine in.

Kitchen in Roundabout Retreat Christmas Island — Cook up a feast during your stay at Roundabout Retreat.

Other options include the newly renovated Roundabout Retreat (which sleeps a maximum of four) and Breeze Inn .

Best for: Families or couples.

Living room, Roundabout Retreat, Christmas Island Accommodation, Australia — Have a relaxing stay at Roundabout Retreat.

Read our guide to Christmas Island for more great travel tips and visit the Christmas Island website to start planning your trip now.

Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd . In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

Exchanging city chaos for country calm

kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park — The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

The trails and treasures of the Grampians

sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd — Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles . I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain — Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail , Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

“There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

wildflowers in Grampians National Park — Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

What else is on offer in The Grampians?

a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola — Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region ? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

dining at Pomonal Estate — Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

Salingers of Great Western — Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

Kookaburras on a tree — Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity .

Playing there

abseiling down Hollow Mountain — Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors . Visit Wama , Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium .

Eating there

steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap — Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate . Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock , can’t be beat.

Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park — The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe . Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines , Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines .

two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap — Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.