Your complete guide to accommodation in Cocos Keeling Islands

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You’ve scoured the internet for an untrampled nature-based destination and happened upon Cocos Keeling Islands – a tropical, coconut palm-covered horseshoe of sparkling gems, 27 of them in fact, peeking out of the Indian Ocean.

With over-tourism a growing problem worldwide, Cocos Keeling, due to its size – a mere 14 square kilometres – is set to keep visitor numbers restricted. Book your beds early, accommodation is limited.

Most places to stay are a passport’s throw from the airport on West Island – one of two inhabited islands on Cocos. A short spin of your suitcase wheels will have you booked in, unpacked, and sitting by the ocean, cocktail in hand, watching waves roll in before the sun goes down.

The other – Home Island, where most Cocos Malay people live – has homestay options. There are no high-rise, five-star hotels boasting swim-up bars, so where do you lay your head after laying around on the beach all day?

The Breakers

Suitable for:  Couples or friends travelling together.

Talking of rolling your suitcase, The Breakers self-contained bungalows are surrounded by lush greenery, a leaf’s launch from the airport.

Take your pick from twin or queen rooms fitted out with timbered trimmings, a spacious bathroom, air-conditioning and any essential item you’ll need to throw a hearty meal together after a full day’s adventuring.

The Breakers room on Cocos Keeling Islands
Nestle into lush island greenery with The Breaker’s bungalows. (Image: Rachel Claire Photography)

There’s a thatched open-air BBQ Pondok set in a private garden if you want to mix it up and socialise at champers-o’clock as the sun slips away.

The town’s one and only supermarket, visitor centre/gift shop, and a handful of restaurants are a two-minute walk from your bungalow’s balcony.

The Breakers on Cocos Keeling Islands
The Breakers is a delightful tropical stay.

Cocos Seaview Apartments

Suitable for: Couples or solo travellers.

Squirrel away in these tastefully appointed self-contained apartments . Located in a peaceful leafy cul-de-sac, think romantic retreat, rest and recharge.

The ocean is a mini-meander away – walk along the surf and beach comb with hermit crabs looking for new homes.

The community bus stop is a two-minute stroll and runs to West Island’s jetty where the ferry leaves for Home Island and Direction Island – where a silky stretch of sand was crowned Best Beach in Australia, 2017.

With over 12 years of experience, resident and owner Levi Fowler is an expert on all things Cocos. Levi will collect you from the airport and by the time you’re reclining and sipping a sundowner on your deck, you’ll have the low-down on the upside of paradise.

Levi’s akin to the local Olympian, into everything from kite surfing, and cray fishing, to health and fitness, to being passionate about the local community. So, when it comes to looking after you, he dots and crosses your holiday needs.

Cocos Seaview apartments, Cocos Keeling Island
Find everything you need in your own self-contained apartment by the sea.

Cocos Castaway

Select from four villa options. Suitable for: Couples and families.

Become a hideaway castaway in a stylish self-contained villa right in the heart of town and watch the waves roll in from your private veranda.

If doing nothing is on your agenda, the villas have uninterrupted ocean views willing you into blissful relaxation.

Feeling energised after reclining? Hire a push bike for $20 and ride along the highway. Drop into one of West Island’s deserted beaches, the year-round bath-tub warm waters are ideal for snorkelling and SUP boarding (stand-up paddle boarding).

When hunger sets in, beachside restaurant, Surfer Girl Brewery , serves up delicious tropical smoothie bowls along with one of the islands’ finest roasted coffees or try Tropika Restaurant.

Castaway on Cocos Keeling Island
Relax on your deck with ocean views.

ninetysixeast Bed & Breakfast

Suitable for: Couples or solo travellers.

This heritage-listed boutique bed and breakfast enjoys a prime beachfront location overlooking a reef rock pool on William Keeling Crescent – named after the merchant seaman who discovered the magical isles back in 1609.

The private beach-themed ensuite room has been stylishly designed with ocean lovers in mind.

Consummate hosts, Colin and Christine, will have you feeling at home within minutes of picking you up in a golf buggy from the airport. The couple includes an island-intro buggy tour, snorkelling equipment, and buggy use during the first two days of your stay.

Don’t miss brekkie. Colin and Christine serve up a scrumptious continental breakfast on the sweeping veranda. The backdrop – mesmerising rolling waves, one crashing wave after another.

It’s hard to pull yourself away, but adventure awaits on the coconut-frisked shores of the surrounding islands.

Ninetysixeast Bed & Breakfast, Cocos (Keeling) Islands
Watch the sunset from your patio at ninetysixeast Bed & Breakfast.

Cocos Bellevue Apartment

Suitable for: Couples and solo travellers.

For those seeking a serene and self-contained stay, Cocos Bellevue on West Island offers a perfect beachfront escape. With stunning views of the Indian Ocean and just steps away from the beach, these modern studios are ideal for couples or solo travellers looking to unwind in paradise. Each studio comes fully equipped with all the amenities needed for a comfortable stay, including a kitchenette and private balcony. Whether you’re here to explore the island or simply relax by the water, Cocos Bellevue provides the perfect base for your Cocos Keeling Islands adventure.

Cocos Bellevue Apartment
Cocos Bellevue on West Island offers a perfect beachfront escape.

Cocos Cottages

Suitable for: Couples and families.

Furnished from floor to ceiling with warm timber furnishings – these cosy cottages on the airport’s Air Force Road provide a home away from home. Don’t worry about noise pollution though, you’ll see more birdlife than planes with only two flights per week.

Completely self-contained, you’ll want for nothing in these spacious two-bedroom cottages. Loaded bookshelves, daybeds and cushion-covered couches top the undercover deck.

Laze back, read, journal, or see if you can identify the island’s exotic birds.

The cottages are a golf ball’s throw from West Island’s golf course . Sit and watch the serious hole-in-one shooters, or join in Scroungers Golf, a friendly nine-hole round played every Thursday afternoon where all levels are welcome.

Cocos Cottages, Cocos Keeling Islands
Wander to the beach, or over to hit a casual round of golf.

The Bird’s Nest

Suitable for: Couples or solo travellers.

With salt in your hair and sand between your toes, nestle away in the quirky Bird’s Nest after a day of island exploring or kayaking.

This self-contained pad has all the frilly furnishings for a peachy beach escape. Choose a flick from the unit’s DVD/video library and settle in for a movie night after a sunset cocktail.

As most amenities are close to West Island’s accommodation, a leisurely stroll will bring you to the central pocket-sized hub.

Check out the Visitor Centre and chat with friendly staff about what’s on. They’ll help with bookings and answer any questions about the islands.

The Bird's Nest, Cocos Keeling Island
nestle away in the quirky Bird’s Nest after a day of island exploring or kayaking.

The Tropical Nook

Suitable for: Couples or solo travellers.

This self-contained studio is hidden in a quiet cul de sac that is an easy 150-metre stroll to the beach. The owners are a small family who lives in the main house and love to share their passion and knowledge of the Cocos with travellers.

With its own private entrance, whip yourself up a seafood feast in the kitchen then lay out on your own secluded deck, surrounded by nothing but lush tropical trees and the sounds of waves rolling in.

If you can tear yourself away from the pristine surroundings, a 500-metre walk will put you in the town centre.

Tropical Nook, Cocos Keeling Island
Chill out on your private balcony, or stroll down to the beach.

Beachcombers Cottage

Suitable for: Families or groups of up to eight people.

If this beautifully furnished cottage were any closer to the waves lapping the shoreline, your bed would be a water-based one.

Skip, hop or dance across the 30-metre palm-edged garden to the palm-edged beach, where you can laze under palm trees; FYI Cocos is full of coconut palms!

Pack up the fishing gear and throw your hook out. The five-star alfresco area boasts an outdoor kitchen kitted to cook up the day’s catch. Want to entertain? The indoor kitchen would suit any aspiring MasterChef.

The owners of this stylish four-bedroom, two-bathroom home have thought of everything and more. Along with features you’d expect to see in any first-rate property, you’ll find bicycles, paddle boards, kayaks, and snorkelling equipment.

Get in quick, book this premier home and listen to waves whisper against the shore as you sleep the night away.

Beachcombers Cottage, Cocos Keeling Islands
Stay right on the water at Beachcombers Cottage.

The Castle

Suitable for: Families or groups of up to eight people.

Not to be mistaken with the iconic 1970s-styled home from the classic Australian movie, The Castle is a three-bedroom holiday house all about the modern touches, open-flow plan, and gourmet kitchen.

Saunter into town, nip in and out of Cocos’ shops, and grab a coffee and a freshly baked sweet treat at Salty’s Bakery & Grill.

The Castle’s huge outdoor patio area has cushioned day beds ready for an afternoon’s siesta.

Later, head into town and share duty-free drinks with friendly locals at the Cocos Club’s bar as the sun sets on another perfect day.

You’ll feel like a local as you catch up on the three w’s – what to do, where to go, and who to do it with, in paradise.

The Castle, Cocos Keeling Islands
Spread out on the generous-sized deck.

Cocos Escape

Suitable for: Couples, or solo travellers.

Escape life’s stresses and slide into seclusion at this end of West Island property.

White and bright and not a dot in sight, Cocos Escape is a clean, modern open-plan home boasting lagoon views across a beckoning ocean.

The holiday home has been designed for natural cooling with louvres and ceiling fans dotted throughout.

Amble twenty metres from your patio and plunge into the lagoon to spot the islands’ majestic turtles gliding through calm clear waters.

Take your pick from the deluxe two-bedroom option – suitable for up to four guests, or the self-contained one-bedroom studio apartment furnished for the solo traveller or couple.

Cocos Escape, Cocos Keeling Island
Escape life’s stresses at this secluded West Island property.

My Island Home

Suitable for: Two couples, or small families.

Relive your childhood in this hexagonal-designed pad; it has all the feels of grandma’s home. Games, books, videos, and nesting nooks feature in the bohemian two-bedroom, one-bathroom cottage that is My Island Home .

Retreat to the deck’s comfy couches and listen to the birds sing-song in the adjacent park.

Like everything on the islands, nothing is far away, whichever way you turn you’ll be taking holiday snaps before five minutes tick past on your smartwatch.

After a day of island hopping, the breeze through the property’s palm trees swishes you into slumber.

My Island Home, Cocos Keeling Islands
Listen to the birds sing-song in the adjacent park.

Oceania House

Suitable for: History buffs.

For a stay that blends history with island charm, Oceania House on Home Island is an option. Once the stately home of the Clunies-Ross family, the dynasty that ruled the Cocos Keeling Islands for more than a century, this heritage mansion offers guests a unique glimpse into the island’s colonial past. Today, it serves as a guesthouse, with rooms that overlook lush gardens and the azure waters of the lagoon. Staying here feels like stepping back in time, surrounded by antique furnishings and stories of a bygone era.

Oceania House on Home Island on Cocos Keeling Islands
Oceania House is a stay that blends history with island charm. (Image: Maui Pandocopy)
Lynn Gail
Lynn Gail is a travel writer and photographer who supplies both Australian and international travel magazines with features she hopes take readers on immersive journeys. An intrepid traveller, she’s most at home sitting alongside indigenous cultures, learning age-old belief systems. With her photography, Lynn aims to capture an essence of her subjects through making a connection.
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Taking the route less travelled along the Great Ocean Road

The Great Ocean Road has captured the hearts of Australians with its astounding scenery since 1932, but going off-course can enrich your experience with untouched nature, foodie delights and charming towns. 

It’s a chilly 16 degrees. My husband pulls on a steamer and jogs – as all seasoned surfers do – into the water. We’re at Bells Beach , the legendary break on Victoria’s Surf Coast that’s home to the Rip Curl Pro, the world’s longest-running event in competitive surfing. Each year, over the Easter long weekend, up to 40,000 people descend on the region for the event. Today, though, we have the beach almost to ourselves, and the less-than-favourable temperature doesn’t deter my husband from surfing this famous break.  

Bells Beach
Bells Beach is known for its epic surf break and is at the start of the Great Ocean Road. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Torquay to Anglesea and Aireys Inlet 

Split Point Lighthouse
The red dome of Split Point Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The nearby surf town of Torquay marks the starting point for the Great Ocean Road . Unfolding our map, which we have marked out with a highlighted route for our children to follow, we set off for lesser-known Anglesea, a chilled-out town 20 minutes south of here. Its wide, sandy beach is a gentler swimming option for our young family. Groms can learn to surf here with Go Ride a Wave, which also runs stand-up paddle boarding on the Anglesea River.  

Split point lookout
The lighthouse overlooks the Shipwreck Coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)

After a couple of nights in Anglesea, we hit the road again, first stopping at Aireys Inlet. Here we stretch our legs at Split Point Lighthouse, which was made famous by the 1990s television series Round the Twist, before driving under the Memorial Arch that welcomes us, officially, to the Great Ocean Road.  

This 243-kilometre coastal road was built by returned First World War servicemen and serves as a permanent memorial to those who fought and died during the war. Carved into rock using hand tools and horse-drawn carts, it was a huge engineering feat and provided much-needed access to isolated coastal communities. 

Lorne to Birregurra 

Lorne is a delightful beachside stop for lunch and browsing boutique stores. It’s also the gateway to Great Otway National Park , which comprises a varied landscape of old-growth forests, cool-temperate rainforests, heathy woodlands and rugged coast. With the highest rainfall in Victoria, the region is home to many waterfalls – 10 of which are within 10 kilometres of Lorne.  

Turning slightly off the main drag, we wind along a gum-shaded road to Erskine Falls. Here, our son leads the way through the hyper-green rainforest and down 200-plus stairs to the cascade that drops 30 metres into a lush fern gully. We hop over large boulders to get closer to the falls, enjoying the entire place to ourselves; it’s worth the return climb.  

From Sheoak Falls Picnic Area, there are walking trails to Henderson Falls, Phantom Falls, Won Wondah Falls and Kalimna Falls, some of which follow an old timber tramway from forest-logging days, which only came to an end in 2008.  

Erskine Falls
Erskine Falls is one of many falls within a day trip of Lorne. (Image: Visit Victoria)

You can follow your appetite north to the town of Birregurra, which is part of the Otway Harvest Trail that connects farm gates, markets, wineries, breweries and distilleries. It’s home to three-hatted modern Australian restaurant Brae , helmed by celebrated chef Dan Hunter, set among native gardens and an organic farm, and Otways Distillery, which produces small-batch spirits using local produce and botanicals.  

Brae restaurant
Brae is a three-hatted restaurant in Birregurra. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Apollo Bay to The Otways 

Back on track, the cliff-hugging stretch between Lorne and Apollo Bay is breathtaking. At Teddys Lookout, we overlook the winding road ahead and St George River spilling into the ocean. We spend languid days in Apollo Bay, a buzzy seaside town that boasts a three-kilometre-long, crescent-shaped beach with a backdrop of rolling green hills. One evening, as the sun sets, we take the steep 10-minute walk to Marriners Lookout, which affords panoramic views of the ocean, hinterland and town.  

A 15-minute drive along the road, Maits Rest is a lush rainforest gully that has been protected since the early 20th century. Wandering along the 800-metre boardwalk, we inspect the delicate moss-covered forest floor and the gnarled roots of 300-year-old myrtle beech trees, then crane our necks to see their canopies, some 50 metres above us. It’s therapy in nature.  

Cape Otway to the Twelve Apostles 

Twelve Apostles
One of the famous Twelve Apostles, limestone sea stacks that rise from the Southern Ocean. (Image: Ben Savage)

The southernmost tip of Cape Otway is a delightful detour, home to the 1848-built Cape Otway Lightstation, the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. We climb the narrow winding staircase to the gallery deck, explore the keepers’ quarters and telegraph station, and enjoy a coffee and some ‘famous’ scones at the charming onsite cafe.    

It’s a pinch-me moment to finally see the Twelve Apostles in person. This unmistakable cluster of limestone stacks rising abruptly from the sea were never 12, however. When coined this in the 1890s as a marketing ploy, there were only nine; today, only seven remain after two collapsed in 2005 and 2009. We admire these Aussie icons from the viewing platform, in awe of Mother Nature’s ever-evolving artwork.  

The Grotto
The Grotto is another natural attraction within Port Campbell National Park. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

Edging the wild Southern Ocean, this part of the coast – dubbed Shipwreck Coast – is made up of many sea-carved natural wonders including London Bridge, The Grotto and Gibson Steps. After exploring the lookout trails of Loch Ard Gorge/Poombeeyt Kontapool – its English name taken from the site of the 1878 shipwreck – we nestle into the sandy beach encircled by towering sandstone cliffs, as our children splash about on the water’s edge, and soak it all in.  

Port Campbell to Timboon 

Timboon Fine Ice Cream
Timboon Fine Ice Cream is part of a regional foodie trail. (Image: C McConville)

Just north of Port Campbell National Park, the region of Timboon is part of the 12 Apostles Food Artisans Trail, filled with purveyors of delicious foodstuffs such as Timboon Fine Ice Cream , Timboon Railway Shed Distillery and Apostle Whey Cheese. As an antidote to the indulgence, the 20-kilometre Poorpa Yanyeen Meerreeng Trail is a self-guided ride or walk between Port Campbell and Timboon through tall forests, over historic bridges and past sparkling lakes and farmland with grazing cattle.  

Warrnambool to Port Fairy 

Warrnambool building
A 19th-century building in Warrnambool. (Image: Peter Foster)

In Warrnambool, a town rich in maritime history, we take the four-kilometre Thunder Point Walk that traces the coast. The kids squeal when an echidna shuffles out from beneath the wooden boardwalk, and we stop to admire a seal lazing on a rock at the port.  

Further along, the streets of quaint fishing village Port Fairy are lined with 19th-century cottages, old stone churches and Norfolk pines. Follow the historic walking trail to see some of the 60-plus National Trust buildings. Port Fairy is also home to Port Fairy Folk Festival (6-9 March), one of the country’s longest-running music and cultural festivals. You could time your road trip with the event for a fittingly celebratory end to any journey.  

The Great Ocean Road can easily be done in three days, but we’ve spent a week on the road. The highlighted line on our now creased and well-worn map doesn’t follow the famous route precisely. It has sprouted branches in many directions, leading us to untouched rainforest and charming rural towns filled with culinary delights, and where we experienced some of our most memorable moments on the Great Ocean Road.    

A traveller’s checklist 

Staying there

Oak & Anchor
The Oak & Anchor in Port Fairy.

The Monty is a highly anticipated, newly refurbished motel with a chic Palm Springs-inspired aesthetic set across the road from the Anglesea River. Basalt Winery in Port Fairy grows cool-climate wines such as pinot noir and Riesling in rich volcanic soil. Stay among the vines in its tiny home, complete with a kitchen, lounge area and outdoor firepit. 

The Oak & Anchor Hotel has been a Port Fairy institution since 1857. Cosy up by the bar in winter or bask in the sunshine of the Lawn Bar in summer. The rooms are beautifully boutique with considered details, such as luxe baths for sinking into post-road trip. 

Eating there

The Coast in Anglesea is a modern Australian restaurant focused on local ingredients. Grand Pacific Hotel has been a local landmark in Lorne since 1879 and recently underwent a restoration. It serves a mix of traditional pub and Italian fare alongside ocean views.  

Graze is a cosy 40-seat dining room in Apollo Bay with a modern Australian menu complemented by regional wines. Apollo Bay Distillery offers tasting flights, a gin blending masterclass and serves woodfired pizzas.