Cocos Keeling Islands: The most beautiful place you'll ever go

Halfway between mainland Australia and Sri Lanka, natural wonders abound in the Cocos Keeling Islands where sunshine, beautiful beaches and tropical jungle take centre stage alongside a unique cultural identity.

Tears fill my eyes as the plane descends towards the Cocos Keeling Islands. Never has a destination stirred such a profound reaction in me. From above, the islands seem to float in the water like green jewels, surrounded by an ocean so blue it looks surreal. Even before we land, this small but glorious archipelago has already taken my breath away.

The palm-fringed atolls are mere specks in the middle of the Indian Ocean that, as well as being incredibly far-flung, feel like an untouched paradise. Sitting almost perfectly halfway between mainland Australia and Sri Lanka, and just south of Indonesia, getting here is where the adventure begins.

Reaching the islands, which are an Australian territory, requires a flight from Perth International Airport, stopping en route at Learmonth on the northwest coast of WA before continuing to Cocos and, eventually, Christmas Island. It’s a journey that feels like a pilgrimage to the very edge of the Earth, and I am immersed in the tranquillity of island life the minute I step off the plane.

a house on Home Island, Cocos Keeling Islands — A colourful local home on Home Island. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

The geography of solitude

Cocos is made up of 27 coral islands, with only two – West Island and Home Island – inhabited, forming two distinct atolls. West Island is the administrative and tourist hub, while Home Island is where most of the Cocos Malay community lives. Its remoteness makes it a haven for travellers like me, who are drawn to places where natural beauty thrives and life moves at a slower pace.

white terns resting in palm trees — White terns are resting in palm trees. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

This isolation creates a sense of serenity unlike anywhere else I have ever been. There are no shopping centres, restaurant chains or crowded beaches here, just miles of undisturbed natural beauty, turquoise waters and powdery white sand. It is the kind of place where your mind can wander, your body can relax and time seems to stand still.

the Big Barge Art Centre, Cocos Keeling Islands — The Big Barge Art Centre is a renowned art space on the island. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

You will find Direction Island just north of Home Island. It’s home to a famous rip, where you enter the water at one end and float its entirety while spotting amazing marine life along the way. A public ferry travels to the island on Thursdays and Saturdays. But you need to bring all your food, drinking water and snorkelling equipment with you due to its remoteness.

a remote beach on Cocos Keeling Islands — The islands are uncrowded and wildly beautiful. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Direction Island is also known for its historical significance, as it played a key role in the First World War when the German cruiser Emden was destroyed just off its coast. There is a memorial on the island, which serves as a quiet reminder of the battles that once raged in these peaceful waters.

lush palms on Cocos Keeling Islands — The paradisiacal beaches are all white powdery sand and swaying palm trees. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

I spend some time wandering the island’s trails, which lead me through groves of coconut palms and past the old telegraph station, another nod to its strategic importance in the past.

a coconut tree in the Cocos Keeling Islands — The Cocos Keeling Islands are named after the coconut trees that grow here in abundance. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Remote explorations

Exploring the Cocos Keeling Islands is a journey best experienced on the water, where each tour provides a new perspective of the two atolls’ marine world. After my adventure on Direction Island, I am eager to explore more of the islands, and the motorised canoe tour with Cocosday is the perfect way to dive deeper. The tour leaves from West Island bright and early, with the lagoon as still as glass. The first stop is Pulu Maraya, a small, uninhabited island that looks like it has been plucked from a postcard.

a local guide carrying weaved baskets during the Home Island Cultural Tour, Cocos Keeling Islands — Basket-weaving is part of the Home Island Cultural Tour. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

I slip into the water with my snorkel on and begin to float down the stream, mesmerised by the coral gardens alive with colour and movement. The coral reefs are pristine and largely untouched by mass tourism, making them some of the best-preserved in the world. Our next stop is a tiny island called Pulu Belan Madar, another uninhabited speck in the lagoon.

an aerial view of Pulu Belan Madar, Cocos Keeling Islands — Pulu Belan Madar remains uninhabited. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

This stop is all about relaxation. Lying on the soft sand, I soak in the sun’s warmth. Our guides, Scarlet Walker and Hayden Michie, bring out cold drinks and a picnic of fresh fruit, banana bread and dips. As we sit watching the waves gently lap the shore, it is the perfect moment of calm. On our way back towards West Island, a handsome green turtle pops up, topping off a wonderful day.

an aerial view of the Cocos Keeling Islands — Cocos is made up of 27 coral islands, including Home Island. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Another must-do is the glass-bottom boat tour with Cocos Blue Charters. Peter McCartney, known to us as Captain Pete, is a local legend and tailors his tours to your group’s interests, allowing you to snorkel, fish or simply soak in the views of the underwater world beneath you. He takes us back to Direction Island to conquer the rip again, this time on a non-ferry day, so there isn’t another soul in sight.

a snorkelling tour with Cocos Blue Charters — Snorkelling shipwrecks with Cocos Blue Charters. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

We make a few stops on the way back to swim with manta rays and hopefully dolphins. The manta rays are a graceful success, gliding below us like shadows. Dolphins are next on the list. I am excited, but the thing about dolphins is, they often travel with sharks… So, as I put my fins on at the back of the boat, legs dangling in the water, Pete suddenly says, “Oh, there are sharks there!" to which I reply, “I think they’re dolphins!"

snorkelling and taking photos underwater, Cocos Keeling Islands — Clear water is perfect for underwater photography. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

And as it turns out, we are both right – there are dolphins, but what I had not noticed were the reef sharks lurking just beneath them. Reef sharks are generally harmless, but Pete’s casual warning about how they “sometimes act out" in open water is enough to have me yanking my legs out of the water.

a boat tour on Cocos Keeling — Boat tours explore outer islands and reefs. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

A complex history

While the Cocos Keeling Islands’ beauty is unparalleled, its cultural and historical significance is equally captivating. The islands were first sighted by British sea captain William Keeling in the early 17th century. But it was not until 1826 that English merchant Alexander Hare arrived.

a close-up shot of a coconut leaves — The islands are covered with lush palms. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Soon after, in 1827, Scottish trader Captain John Clunies-Ross arrived with his family and a group of Malay workers to establish a settlement. Clunies-Ross declared himself the ‘King of the Cocos’ and turned the islands into his own personal fiefdom, establishing a monarchy that would last more than 150 years.

Though the Clunies-Ross family’s reign was often romanticised as a benevolent monarchy, the reality is more complex. The Cocos Malay people lived in a paternalistic system where they were paid in company currency, only useable in Clunies-Ross stores, and were bound by strict social rules imposed by the family. This created a highly stratified society, with the Clunies-Ross family enjoying European comforts and luxury while the Malay community worked long hours in the coconut plantations.

coconut husks on the Cocos Keeling — Coconuts grow abundantly on the island. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

The winds of change began to blow in the mid-20th century, when the Cocos Malay people started to challenge their status and sought recognition and rights. The Australian government at the time began to take notice, particularly as global views on colonialism and feudal systems shifted after the Second World War.

coconut palms on Cocos Keeling Islands — Walk past groves of coconut palms. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

In 1955, the islands were officially transferred to Australian control, but the Clunies-Ross family was allowed to continue their reign until 1978 when the Australian government purchased the islands from them. The final chapter of the Clunies-Ross dynasty came when the last ‘king’, John Cecil Clunies-Ross, was forced to sell his home, Oceania House, and relinquish the last vestiges of his family’s control over the islands.

Meet local coconut farmer, Tony Lacy. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Life on the Cocos Keeling Islands today

Walking through the islands now, it is hard to imagine it was once a kingdom ruled by a single family. But visiting Home Island is a fascinating insight into the Cocos Malay way of life. Traditional Cocos Malay culture is alive and well here, with Islamic influences seen in the architecture, clothing and religious practices. The locals are incredibly welcoming, and I feel like I have been invited into a close-knit community that is both proud and protective of its heritage.

basket weaving in Cocos Keeling Islands — Basket weaving with palms. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

One of the highlights of my visit is joining a cultural tour with Osman ‘Ossie’ Macrae, a local guide whose storytelling brings the islands’ history to life while we feast on a traditional Cocos Malay lunch. Ossie’s deep knowledge and passion for Cocos Malay culture make the past feel palpable.

a close-up shot of a woven basket — The Cocos Malay people engage in traditional basket weaving. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Life on the Cocos Keeling Islands is refreshingly simple. There is a distinct lack of commercialisation, and I quickly adapt to the slower pace. On West Island, the rhythm of daily life is dictated by the tides.

island life on Cocos Keeling — Island life is refreshingly simple. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Dining options are limited but delightful. The few restaurants and cafes on West Island rotate their opening hours, and it is not uncommon for staff to close shop unexpectedly if the surf or fishing conditions are particularly good. A highlight of dining here is the abundance of fresh, locally caught seafood, all prepared with an island twist.

peeling a coconut at Wild Coconut Discovery Centre — Visitors can tour the Wild Coconut Discovery Centre. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

As my time on the Cocos Keeling Islands comes to an end, I cannot help but reflect on how this place has touched me, just as it did when I first laid eyes on it from the plane. From the quiet beauty of its beaches to the fascinating layers of its history, the islands leave an imprint. There is a stillness here that you cannot find in many places; a sense of peace that comes from being far away from the noise of the world.

Sitting in the middle of the Indian Ocean, Cocos holds its history close while offering its beauty to those who visit. I leave feeling something I rarely experience when I travel – like a part of me has stayed behind.

a swing on Cocos Keeling Islands — Swing into island time. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Virgin Australia flies to the Cocos Keeling Islands from Perth/Boorloo’s International Airport on Tuesdays and Fridays. The flight time is about six hours and includes a stop at Learmonth, near the town of Exmouth, and continues to Christmas Island afterwards. The flight leaves from the international airport, so make sure you allow extra time to get through customs and check-in.

Staying there

Stay in an air-conditioned bungalow at The Breakers in the heart of West Island. Rooms are $310 per night for a minimum of three.

one of the rooms at The Breakers, Cocos Keeling — A cosy room at The Breakers. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Playing there

Cocosday runs a four-hour motorised canoe tour of the southern atoll lagoon and islands for $170 per person. If there is only one tour you book while on the Cocos Keeling Islands, make sure it is this.

a motorised canoe tour, Cocos Keeling — Book a motorised canoe tour to witness pristine coral reefs. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Cocos Blue Charters operates a half-day glass-bottom boat tour for $200 per person. The boat fits four guests and offers shade. When visiting Home Island, book Ossie’s Cultural Tours for $85 per person to learn about the culture and history of the islands over a homemade Cocos Malay lunch.

Join a cultural tour with Cocos Malay local Ossie. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Eating there

The locally run restaurants on West Island often alternate their opening hours, so you should be able to find at least one venue open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Check the visitor centre for updated information. Add your name to blackboards out the front of each restaurant to make a tentative reservation.

the Sula Sula Servery, Cocos Keeling Islands — Enjoy homemade sweet treats at Sula Sula Servery. (Image: Cocos Keeling Tourism/Rachel Claire)

Wind through fern tunnels, stop for a wine in a tram bar, or chase giant murals across the wheatbelt. These drives and rides prove Victoria’s best stories are found off the straight and narrow.

There’s something unmistakably Australian about a road trip: car packed, playlist on, landscapes shifting. Travelling down the highway toward Healesville, in Victoria’s Yarra Valley , the mountains rise, flanking me on both sides. I feel its embrace, a silent invitation to explore what lies beyond.

Moss-covered embankments rise on either side, and towering mountain ash trees form a green tunnel overhead. Road signs warn of wombats and cyclists but with giant ferns lining the roadside, the landscape feels prehistoric, as if a dinosaur might suddenly emerge. This, the Black Spur , is one of my favourite road trips.

The Black Spur

Location: Yarra Ranges
Duration: 30 kilometres / 30 minutes

The Black Spur is short compared to other Victorian road trips, just 30 kilometres, stretching from Healesville to Narbethong. But what it lacks in distance, it makes up for in scenery. Just outside Healesville, Maroondah Dam offers bushwalks and scenic views. However, if pressed for time, Selover’s Lookout is an easy roadside stop offering uninterrupted views of the dam.

In Narbethong, close to the Marysville’s snowfield, is the Black Spur Inn , a charming double-storey brick hotel that’s been welcoming travellers since 1863. Here, diners cosy up by the roaring fire or gaze through the floor-to-ceiling windows, imagining horse-drawn coaches carrying hopeful gold seekers to the eastern goldfields.

Victoria’s Silo Art Trail

Location: Various towns across the Wimmera Mallee region
Duration: More than 200 kilometres / 4–5 hours but best over a minimum of three days

What began as a way to draw travellers back into town bypassed by highways – places such as Nullawil, Sea Lake and Patchewollock – has grown into a celebrated outdoor art movement. The Silo Art Trail now includes 23 silos, each transformed with large-scale mural portraits sharing local stories, celebrating community heroes, Indigenous history, farming life, or regional identity.

The Nullawil silo, for example, is a portrait of a local farmer in a chequered flannelette shirt alongside his loyal kelpie, painted by artist Sam Bates (AKA Smug). And the silos at Albacutya in the Grampians, painted by artist Kitt Bennett, depict her joyful memories of growing up in the countryside. Many of the murals sit right in the heart of small towns, such as Rochester and St Arnaud , making them perfect spots to pause for a country pub meal or something sweet from a local bakery.

Metung to Mallacoota

Location: Gippsland
Duration: Approximately 220 kilometres / 4 hours

The Gippsland Lakes are a much-loved holiday spot in Victoria, but road-tripping further east reveals much more. Begin in Metung and time your visit with the monthly farmers’ market, or simply linger over lunch on the lawn of the Metung Hotel. Twenty minutes away is Lakes Entrance , where you can watch the fishing boats return with their catch.

Lakes Entrance. (Image: Visit Victoria/Iluminaire Pictures)

Continue to Marlo, where the Snowy River spills into the sea, and Cape Conran for its many beaches and walks. If needing to stretch your legs, Croajingolong National Park is home to the historic Point Hicks Lighthouse and the Wilderness Coast Walk. Birdwatching and rainforest trails near Bemm River are worth a pit stop before arriving in Mallacoota, where the forest meets the sea.

Great Ocean Road

Location: South-west Victoria, from Torquay to Allansford
Duration: Approximately 250 kilometres / 4–5 hours but best over a minimum of three days

Victoria’s most famous road trip delivers it all: world-class surf breaks, rainforest walks, clifftop lookouts and wildlife encounters. The journey begins in Torquay, the state’s surf capital, then hugs the coast past Anglesea and Lorne to Apollo Bay, before curving inland through the lush rainforest of the Otways. Stop at Cape Otway Lightstation or take to the treetops at Otway Fly.

Between Cape Otway and Port Campbell lies the most photographed stretch – seven of the Twelve Apostles still standing, alongside the golden cliffs of Loch Ard Gorge. Further west, Warrnambool is a winter whale-watching hotspot, before the road winds to Port Fairy, a charming fishing village of whalers’ cottages, walking trails and offshore seal colonies further along the coast.

Bellarine Taste Trail

Terindah Estate. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

Location: Bellarine Peninsula
Duration: Approximately 80 kilometres / 2–3 hours

The Bellarine Taste Trail is a feast for the senses, winding through coastal towns, past boutique wineries and artisan producers. It’s a choose-your-own-adventure style trail – simply grab a map and build your own delicious journey.

You might wander historic, seafront Queenscliff, sip wine in a converted tram bar at Terindah Estate , sample a locally distilled whisky at The Whiskery in Drydale or pick up a jar of honey at Wattle Grove in Wallington. Seafood lovers can head to Portarlington, famous for its mussels. Eat them fresh at local restaurants or head out on the water with Portarlington Mussel Tours.

O’Keefe Rail Trail – Bendigo to Heathcote

Pink Cliffs Reserve in Heathcote can be seen on the O’Keefe Rail Trail. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

Location: Central Victoria
Duration: Approximately 50 kilometres / 4 hours cycling

Travellers first journeyed between Heathcote and Bendigo in 1888, when the railway line was built to link the towns. Trains stopped running in 1956, but today the route has a new life as the O’Keefe Rail Trail . The path is mostly level for easy riding, and along the way you’ll cycle past bushland, waterways and reserves. There are plenty of places to picnic, birdwatch, and if you’re lucky, spot a platypus.

The trail is well supported with water stations, bike repair points, shelters, and signage. Axedale makes a great halfway stop, with the pretty Campaspe River Reserve for a rest and local cafes for refuelling. Begin in Heathcote, known for its wineries and cafes, or in Bendigo, which is easily reached by train from Melbourne/Naarm. Shorter sections, such as Heathcote to Axedale, are also popular.

Goldfields Track – Ballarat to Bendigo

Location: Central Victoria
Duration: Approximately 210 kilometres / 2–3 days cycling

The Goldfields Track traces a route once so rich in gold it made Melbourne one of the wealthiest cities in the world. Starting at Mt Buninyong, south of Ballarat, the trail leads mountain cyclists and walkers north through Creswick, Daylesford and Castlemaine before finishing in Bendigo. Along the way, you’ll encounter granite outcrops, eucalypt forests, rolling farmland and remnants of the region’s mining past.

As it passes through the lands of the Dja Dja Wurrung and Wadawurrung people, the track shares gold rush history and Indigenous stories brought to life by interpretive signs. Walk or ride the full trail or choose from one of its three distinct sections. With cosy stays, cafes and pubs, it’s easy to mix wilderness with comfort.

It’s time to escape to the most beautiful place you’ve never heard of