The top eco-conscious experiences to have in Margaret River

As the Margaret River Region becomes one of only a handful of certified eco destinations in Australia, Fleur Bainger dives into the wine-focused nirvana – known for sophisticated cellar doors and celebrity chefs – and finds an inspiring devotion to eco-consciousness.

It’s been some time since I’ve clambered onboard a wine bus and ticked off cellar doors one after another. In more recent times, I’ve favoured wine-paired degustations stretching across languorous afternoons at fancy winery restaurants. Either way, the resulting buzz is sometimes not all that dissimilar. Enter WA’s lengthy border closures and a time of unexpected stillness and reflection that, as for many Australians, shifted my priorities. During the slow-down, I noticed nature’s seasons like never before and thought deeply about my impact on the Earth – and my own body. Coming out the other side, I’m no longer interested in unnecessary excess. Instead, I’m pursuing conscious escapes where I rest, revive and reconnect with nature, and my clear-eyed self.

Sugarload Rock, Margaret River, WA — See the dramatic view over Sugarloaf Rock in the Margaret River Region. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

You could be forgiven for assuming that the Margaret River Region’s glamorous reputation and weekend hotspot status means there’s little room for green leanings. But beneath the slick surface is a place rife with good-for-the-Earth experiences that go well beyond brown-paper menus. Think forested e-bike roams between vineyards, off-grid dining experiences where food waste goes to the pigs (who later end up on the plate), and starlit bush walks to commune with endangered native species.

Shire Augusta, Margaret River, WA — It’s easy being green in the Shire of Augusta-Margaret River, recently recognised as an accredited Eco Destination.

This World Environment Day saw the Shire of Augusta-Margaret River awarded ECO Destination Certification, one of only a handful of Australian destinations to satisfy the scrutiny of Ecotourism Australia’s application and auditing process. The move solidifies the coast-hugging region’s long-held, yet little-known passion for sustainable and nature-based tourism. The South West is also one of only two global biodiversity destinations in Australia. It makes sense then, to travel slowly and thoughtfully here. So let’s hit the road. I opt to do things properly, offsetting my car’s emissions with Aussie carbon credit dealer, GoNeutral before turning the keys and leaving Perth.

Wine sensory Garden at Whicher Ridge, Margaret River, WA — The Wine Sensory Garden is one of the highlights of a visit to the vineyard.

Heyscape’s tiny cabins

Nearly three hours later, I’m pulling into a vineyard and sheep farm where endangered Carnaby’s black cockatoos teeter on wire fencing, gossiping loudly as I roll by to an off-grid tiny cabin called Joey. It’s stationed in a paddock mobbed with kangaroos – hence the moniker – who provide the evening’s golden light entertainment. Initially with horror, then relief, I discover there’s zero Internet coverage here; I can’t even send an SMS. Proper disconnection washes over me as I slide into bed and gaze out my wall-sized window.

Grapes from Whicher Ridge, Margaret River — Whicher Ridge harvests grapes from a single vineyard.

Whicher Ridge winery

I swap my solar-powered haven the following morning for a stroll around a wine sensory garden laid out in the shape of an infinity symbol. Cathy and Neil Howard run Whicher Ridge winery , a five-minute walk from Joey – far enough away for out-of-view seclusion, but close enough for solo me to feel cosily safe. Winemaker Cathy’s fragrant garden is her pride and joy and is riddled with plants that match wine flavours; over the next hour we smell, chew and sip our way through pineapple sage, lemon verbena and orange thyme with samples of small-batch viognier, chardonnay and shiraz in hand.

Polly at Whicher Ridge, Margaret River, WA — The winery produces small-batch wines under the watchful eye of Polly.

It’s a wine-matching experience unlike any other – indeed, the garden is believed to be the only one of its kind in Australia. “The flavours in wine can be transferred across to plants," says Cathy, who composts winery waste, stalks and grapes into the grounds. “A sensory experience helps the brain to remember it."

Pick and Sip at Whicher RIdge, Margaret River, WA — Enjoy a ‘Pick and Sip’ experience with the winemakers at Whicher Ridge.

Arimia Estate

It’s a worthy primer for the farm tour at Arimia Estate in nearby Wilyabrup. The certified organic, off-grid winery hides down a dirt road, a fitting entry for a property so keenly devoted to sustainability. Its owner, Ann Spencer, is a quietly spoken, no-fuss type who downplays her contribution as we drive around the 55-hectare property in her dusty 4WD. “I like to think I’ve always been mindful of not wanting to destroy the environment or build on wetlands," she says, pouring out slop buckets of kitchen waste to her rare-breed pigs, who are foraging in the scrub. “Chef uses everything to its utmost and then it goes to this lot. There’s little to no waste from diners."

Neil and Cathy Howard, Whicher Ridge, Margaret River, WA — Neil and Cathy Howard, the vigneron and winemaker couple behind Whicher Ridge.

I’m not surprised. After a kitchen garden walk through wicking beds, a worm farm, chicken run, bee-friendly flowering plants and companion-planted heirloom varieties, I sit down to an off-menu lunch that’s one of the most memorable meals I’ve had in years. The restaurant did away with à la carte menus in 2020, instead serving five mystery courses plus snacks and other delights. “It just depends on what produce chef can get his hands on," says Ann. “Generally, everyone loves the surprise and the experience."

Chef Evan Hayter is as boots-in as they come. As I dive into ribbons of carrot tartare dressed in smoked trout cream and dotted with ocean trout caviar, he reels off his modus operandi. “We cook with gas, the restaurant is run on solar, and we collect rainwater and process all our own wastewater," he says. “The only single-use plastic is from our sous vide vacuum bags and I’ve had the same roll of cling wrap for the past five years."

Food from Arimia Estate, Margaret River, WA — Taste one of chef Evan Hayter’s creations at Arimia Estate.

In keeping with his passion for hyperlocal, Hayter’s father made the restaurant tables and his partner hangs the walls with her art. I plunge a fork into organic flour fettuccine handmade using farm eggs an hour earlier, dredging Exmouth prawns in a saffron and estate olive oil sauce. “The things we do that are standard for us, I don’t see elsewhere," says Hayter. “I’ve even stopped using the term sustainable. We just do it. The world needs us to do it."

local bird at whicher ridge, margaret river, wa — Whicher Ridge is a haven for local birds and wildlife.

I return to my tranquil tiny cabin with plenty to think about. Sitting alone around a flickering fire pit, I scribble a list of what more I can do to lighten my earthly footprint as kangaroos tussle in distant yellow grasses. Who needs Netflix when this is the nightly show?

An e-bike excursion through the wineries

The following day heralds a winery tour unlike any other I’ve done. Forget the branded mini bus: this one’s via electric mountain bike, combining eco credentials with ease of movement along the area’s forest-fringed back tracks. Jodie Berry from Easy Ride Tours leads me along the waterway of Margaret River, so-named by settler John Bussell after the step-second-cousin he’d fallen in love with. To the Wadandi Noongar people, it’s known as Wooditchup, evoking the magic man, Wooditch, who created the river.

Picnic stop during Easy Ride Tours, Margaret RIver, WA — Pause for a picnic while on an e-bike excursion with Easy Ride Tours.

The crunch of dry leaves under our bicycle treads is met with a symphony of native birdsong and that fragrant, sweet blend of bush perfume. We hit the skids at Stella Bella winery , a place of minimal intervention winemaking and organic fertiliser use, before pedalling the Wadandi Track to Arlewood Estate , a micro cellar door open just three days a week.

EasyRideTour, Margaret River, WA — Experience the magic of Margaret River while rolling through the region.

While pairing a sem-sav-blanc-chardonnay blend with chocolate squares infused with chipotle, hazelnut and dried apricot (that’s a tasting experience worth cycling for), I hear that weed-munching sheep mow between the vines, ruling out the need for herbicide. “We have a less-is-more approach to sprays, especially because of the sheep," says cellar door host, Paris Hokin.

The light-dappled route back to town sees our solar-charged bikes clock up 32 kilometres, with an average speed of 17 kilometres per hour. It’s definitely enough to earn us a beer at Margaret River Brewhouse . As well as supplying brewing mash to local farmers for cattle feed, this watering hole donates $1 from select beers towards a range of nature-based and community causes. Popular drops include the Possum Ale, Plover Pale, a German-style Kolsch lager and a Hazy IPA dubbed In the Pines.

A nocturnal animal tour

The western ringtail possum the brewhouse supports is rarely seen. It, and the area’s other elusive marsupial, the woylie (or brush-tailed bettong), are both critically endangered. With hopes of observing these shy creatures, I join South West Eco Discoveries’ nocturnal animal tour. Brothers Ryan and Mick White drive me to a privately owned nature sanctuary where an electric gate slides to let us in and keep predatory foxes out. At first, we’re mobbed by western grey kangaroos eager for feed pellets, and I recoil at what seems like a tourist trap. But as night falls, things turn authentic.

“The woylie only comes out and becomes visible because we put food out," says Ryan, acknowledging things can feel staged at first. “Perth Zoo advises us on feed, and these woylies are from the Perth Zoo breeding program." The critters are known to spread native fungal spores – vital for a healthy ecology. “Science suggests these fungi are how forests communicate, so they play an important role" says Ryan. As we make to leave, a rustle from above alerts us to other guests: ringtails. It’s like winning nature’s lottery, and we watch in silent awe.

This trip closes so differently to my usual wine weekends. There isn’t any gregarious behaviour guilt, nor do I feel righteous. I just feel at peace. I’ve found my new way.

Eco-conscious operators

Continue the deep dive into the Margaret River Region’s sustainable side with these eco-conscious operators:

Walk into Luxury pauses to forest bathe along its nature-connecting hikes, while following the principles of the Leave No Trace Foundation . It offsets each season’s carbon emissions with an annual tree- planting day on the Cape to Cape Track.
Voyager Estate certified its first tranche of vines as organic in 2020, while Vasse Feliz followed a year later. Margaret River Organic Wine Trail member Cullen Wines beat them all though, going organic back in 1998, then biodynamic. Its restaurant is carbon positive too, so there.

Food at Vasse Felix, Margaret River, WA — Indulge in regional flavours at Vasse Felix Restaurant. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

One Table Farm permaculture property teaches sourdough-making classes, with a side of sustainable living and regenerative farming practices.
Fair Harvest offers mindfulness and nature retreats, teaming meditation with soil health and permaculture gardening tips.
Forage Safaris takes the backroads to unearth seasonal, local fare while meeting farmers on their properties.

Tour of Voyager Estate WInery in Margaret River, WA — Tour Voyager Estate. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

The Margaret River Region is an easy three-hour drive south of Perth, or you can fly to Busselton airport and hire a car or driver. Since April, lucky Melburnians have been able to fly direct with Jetstar, which is running a three-year trial of the route.

Staying there

For a slice of seclusion, book into Heyscape’s tiny cabins at a secret winery location on Busselton’s outskirts.

Interiors of Cabin at Heyscapes, Margaret River, WA — Book into Heyscape’s tiny cabins.

Eating there

Consciously consume off-menu at Arimia Estate in Wilyabrup.

Playing there

Pedal effortlessly through forest to sustainable cellar doors with Easy Ride Tours ’ e-bikes, kicking off from Margaret River town. Watch for woylies on a night walk led by South West Eco Discoveries .

Easy Ride Tours, Margaret River, WA — Pedal effortlessly through forest to sustainable cellar doors.

Discover the perfect road trip stopover between Perth and wine country.

Western Australia punches above its weight when it comes to coastal hot spots, but no other town or city has seen a tourism boom quite like Mandurah. Named Australia’s Top Tourism Town in 2023 , it’s the relaxed, beachside break you’ve been searching for. And it’s perfectly placed, sitting between Margaret River and Perth, as it’s just a 55-minute drive from Perth’s CBD. Which is why we’ve put together your ultimate Mandurah guide.

Aerial view of Mandurah. — Plan your perfect coastal escape to Australia’s Top Tourism Town of 2023.

The best things to do in Mandurah

Wetlands and rivers, ocean and inlet; Mandurah’s laid-back lifestyle centres around the aquatic. Its waterways cover twice the ground of Sydney Harbour – measuring some 134 square kilometres in total – and form a unique environment for oceanic and estuarine flora and fauna to thrive.

In the city’s estuary lives perhaps the region’s most famed inhabitants – a resident pod of 100 bottlenose dolphins – and the inlet’s silty bottom is home to the prized blue manna crab. Spot the former breaching and playing on an hour-long dolphin cruise through the channels, or try your hand at catching the latter by wading through the estuary’s shallows with a scoop net in hand.

While swimming at the circular Kwillena Gabi Pool, chance encounters with the local wildlife aren’t uncommon. The sheltered estuarine pool takes its name from the traditional custodians of the land, the Bindjareb people, and directly translates to ‘dolphin waters’. Jutting out of the eastern foreshore, it’s enclosed by a ring of net-free floating pontoons, which allow the dolphins to swim freely through the attraction.

If that’s a little too close for comfort, book a kayak tour with Down Under Discoveries . The dolphins have been known to cruise beside the paddle-powered crafts, which are a fun, family-friendly way to explore the city’s inner waterways.

Dolphins swimming in Mandurah. — Watch dolphins glide by as you explore Mandurah.

You don’t have to be on the water to appreciate the coastal city’s aquatic beauty, with 600 kilometres of cycleways and scenic walking trails traversing Mandurah’s estuary, inlet and coast.

Follow the 30-kilometre coastal trail and you’ll come face to face with one of Thomas Dambo’s headline-making ‘Giants of Mandurah sculptures, Santi Ikto, along the way. There are five sculptures around Mandurah in total, hidden among gum-filled reserves or sitting sentry over the water.

Head to the Mandurah Visitor Centre to pick up a map to pinpoint their exact location and download the traveller’s companion to learn more about the sights along the way. Or join a three-hour e-bike tour from The Bike Kiosk and you’ll stop by two of the giants – Santi Ikto and Yaburgurt Winjan Cirkelstone – as you sightsee central Mandurah.

The towering Santi Ikto, one of Thomas Dambo’s iconic Giants of Mandurah. — Meet Santi Ikto, one of the legendary Giants of Mandurah.

Where to eat in Mandurah

Mandurah’s culinary scene reflects its laid-back lifestyle, with large, honest meals and locally brewed beer. After visiting Lake Clifton’s 2000-year-old thrombolites, head to the peppermint and gum-shaded beer garden at Thorny Devil Brewery . Tuck into a platter of house-smoked meats and an ale pulled fresh from the tanks. Closer to town and right on the waterfront is Boundary Island Brewery ; here, woodfired pizza, pub-style seafood dishes and easy-drinking brews are centre stage.

On a Murray River Lunch Cruise , the focus is as much on the environment around you as the food you’re filling up on. Help yourself to the colourful salads and freshly cooked meats on the buffet as you meander up the winding, jarrah tree-lined waterway, stopping at the heritage Cooper’s Mill for a quick walking tour along the way.

Keep your eyes trained on the Creery Wetlands as you pass – you’ll spot much of the region’s migratory birdlife, and, as always, might see the playful bottlenose dolphins in the inlet.

The most memorable meals aren’t necessarily always the fanciest, and lunch aboard a self-skippered Mandurah BBQ Boat is a testament to that. All food and beverage prep is left up to you as you cruise through the canals, sausages and steaks sizzling away on the central hot plate.

If seafood is more your kind of fare, board the Wild Seafood Experience , where dolphin cruise meets long table lunch. Eight courses of crab, crayfish and scallops await.

A table filled with plates of crab, crayfish, and scallops. — Dine on the water with eight courses of ocean-fresh fare.

Where to stay in Mandurah

With so many waterways comes abundant waterside stays. Like the self-contained Seashells Mandurah on the shores of Comet Bay. The calm, oceanic outlook from the one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments and villas is as close to Maldivian as Mandurah gets. Families especially enjoy the property, bouncing between the protected cove and the beachfront pool for endless hours of fun.

The Sebel Mandurah , just a hop, skip and jump from the Mandurah Ocean Marina, has a different outlook entirely, overlooking the estuary and lively foreshore on the other side. It’s also within walking distance of the Mandurah Performing Arts Centre , cinema and a swathe of waterfront bars and eateries.

But you can’t get any closer to the water than on a vessel from Mandurah Houseboats . You don’t need a skipper’s ticket to hire one, nor do you need comprehensive boating experience; just a full driver’s license and your undivided attention during the pre-departure tuition will do. Then you’re free to take to the estuaries and tributaries for a few nights of peaceful rest, surrounded by the very element that makes Mandurah so special.

A houseboat cruising in Mandurah along the river — Captain a houseboat to explore Mandurah at your own pace.

Plan your next WA getaway in Mandurah.

good-for-the-Earth experiences you need to have in Margaret River