Driving the Big Lap of Australia12 things to know

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Dreaming about driving off into the sunset and doing a big lap of Australia?

Travel writer and photographer Lee Atkinson has just returned from an epic 10-month, 40,000km road trip around the country, and written a book about it (see below). Here are her top 12 road trip travel hacks you need to know before you hit the road.

1. What to drive

You don’t need a 4WD to drive around Australia, but you do need low range gearing to reach some of the most beautiful bits, because the really wild, wondrous places are almost always in out of the way places. If you are towing a van or camper trailer opt for a turbodiesel, because this type of engine works more efficiently than a petrol for towing and diesel is more readily available in remote areas. And go for an automatic, because autos allow you to just stick it in drive and concentrate on other things.

lower tyre pressure
Deep sand means it’s time to lower tyre pressures (photo: Lee Atkinson).

2. To tow or not to tow?

The number one mistake most people make when choosing whether to buy a caravan, motorhome or camper trailer is to think in terms of what it will be like to live in, rather than where they can take it. If you’re planning to spend most of your time on main roads and want to stay in towns or caravan parks, a caravan or motorhome is a great option. But if your idea of a good time is taking the roads less travelled and getting out into national parks and wild places a camper trailer or a roof-top tent is a better choice. Bigger is not always better. There’s an exponential relationship between the size of your caravan or trailer and the extent to which you can get off the beaten track.

3. Before you go…

If you’ve never been outback or off-road before sign up for a 4WD training course. It will teach you how to use the vehicle to its full potential, how to get yourself out of tight spots and, most importantly, how to use recovery gear. Google ‘4WD driver training’. Same goes for towing: not only do you get plenty of time, and traffic-free space, to learn how to manoeuvre and reverse park your vehicle with a caravan or trailer in tow, you’ll also pick up lots of technical and safety information and handy tips. Tow-ed operates courses in most capital cities and regional centres and will lend you a van if you want to learn before you buy.

Colourful campsite Rainbow Cliffs Arnhem Land
Colourful campsite, Rainbow Cliffs, Arnhem Land (photo: Lee Atkinson).

4. What tools do you need?

A basic tool kit should include a jack, jacking plate and wheel replacement tools, spare tyre, fire extinguisher, emergency fuel supplies (if heading off the beaten track), engine oil, coolant, jumper leads and spare radiator hoses and fan belts and the tools you’ll need to replace them – check out YouTube for DIY tips and bush mechanic lessons. Don’t even think about leaving home without ultimate get-out-of-jail repair kit: cable ties, gaffa tape and fencing wire – with these you can fix just about anything.

5. Getting out of trouble

Getting stuck is inevitable when you’re travelling off the beaten track. You can spend a fortune on fancy recovery gear but there are five things you really can’t do without: we took a pair of Maxx Trax ramps, which you put under the wheels when you’re bogged in sand or mud. They give the tyres something to grip and, as a rule, will launch you out of trouble easily. We also had a long-handled shovel for digging and a snatch strap for those moments when all else failed – all we needed then was somebody else to come along to pull us out, but it was never used. The best way to not get bogged in the first place is to drop tyre pressures to 20psi or less, so we also carried a quality air compressor and an accurate pressure gauge.

6. Essential kit

Never travel without a first aid kit and always carry extra drinking water. Mobile phone coverage can be non-existent in the outback. Hire (or buy) a satellite phone so you can call for help if needed. Some tourist information centres in remote areas have sat phones you can hire, or visit Satellite Hire or  Rent a Sat Phone .

Lee Atkinson's Big Lap map.
Lee Atkinson’s Big Lap map.

7. Map it out

Fighting over which is the right way to go is a major cause of holiday (and marital) breakdown. Don’t rely on the mapping app on your phone – invest in a good GPS. We used Hema Navigator, which features off-road tracks as well as major highways.

8. Keep in touch

These days you can get most of your bills, banks statements etc electronically, which means you can keep the home fires burning relatively easily. Skype is the best thing ever for keeping in touch with friends and family for next to nix. We carried laptops and a 4G mobile wi-fi modem which connects up to 10 devices. Telstra’s the only network that consistently works outside of capital cities.

Troubridge Point Yorke Peninsula SA
Coast hugging, Troubridge Point, Yorke Peninsula, SA (photo: Lee Atkinson).

9. Where to go when

Clockwise or anti-clockwise, that’s the million-dollar question when you’re about to head off on the Big Lap. Whether you turn left or right out of your driveway depends on when you go – if it’s summer, head south, if it’s winter, head north or aim for the red centre. The wet season, which cuts roads and closes national parks anywhere north of the Tropic of Capricorn, can be anytime from November through to May, although it (usually) really only starts to rain in mid to late December and can be all over by April.

The back way, Gippsland, (photo: Lee Atkinson),
The back way, Gippsland, (photo: Lee Atkinson),

10. How long will it take?

How long have you got? Know that however long you go for, it won’t be enough – Australia’s a big place and you could spend a lifetime and still not see it all. On the other hand, you’d be amazed at how far you can go in just four weeks. We spent 42 weeks on the road, and didn’t go where most do go, but did go where many people don’t.

11. How much will it cost?

Everyone’s trip is different, depending on what you drive, where you go, where you stay and what you eat and drink. We were in a 4WD and towing an off-road camper trailer. In terms of day-to-day expenses we averaged just under $150 a day, including fuel, camping fees and the occasional night in a pub if the weather was foul, food and alcohol – we probably could have got that down a little if my partner was a better fisherman, and if I’d chosen cheaper wine, but hey, life’s too short!

12. Can I take my dog?

Many caravan parks will accept well-behaved pets on a leash, but always check before you book rather than on arrival. Pets are not allowed in national parks, even for day visits or picnics. If you want to bush camp with pets, choose state forests instead.

You can read all about Lee’s epic road trip in her book, The Big Lap.
The Big Lap by Lee Atkinson

The Big Lap by Lee Atkinson.

 

“We took the road less travelled whenever we could, camping in national parks and other wild places where few other travellers go," says Atkinson. “We found some truly amazing places and saw some fantastic things, and this book is the result, a showcase of some of the most scenic spots in Australia." Featuring hundreds of beautiful images, the book is the pictorial diary of her journey with detailed captions telling the stories behind the images. The Big Lap costs $35, (including postage), from ozyroadtripper.com.au

8 insider experiences to discover the offbeat in Newcastle

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Discover vibrant culture and creativity, gorgeous nature spots and more in lively Newcastle.

Newcastle/Muloobinba has a lot going for it beyond its big skies and beautiful beaches. The city’s creative types are now heading downtown, taking over and transforming warehouses and terraces to offer a more alternative vibe. From its nightlife to secret swimming spots, art to architecture, here’s our insider’s guide to Newcastle in New South Wales.

1. Learn to sail on Newcastle Harbour

The harbour has always shaped Newcastle, so it seems like the most obvious place to start your weekend. Newcastle Cruising Yacht Club offers a range of programs that provide instruction for both novice and experienced sailors. This is an inspired classroom that sets off past the Honeysuckle Foreshore up the Hunter River, with views towards a seemingly infinite vista of blue stretching to the horizon. It’s the perfect way to savour your time by the sea. Other water activities include surfing, swimming in one of the secret ocean baths or whale-watching with CoastXP .

Aerial view of Newcastle Harbour.
Join Newcastle Cruising Yacht Club’s programs. (Image: City of Newcastle)

2. Underground jazz scene

Follow the lively sound of the saxophone bubbling up to find The Underground . The popular basement-level bar, with its dim lighting and speakeasy aesthetic, schedules live jazz performances every Tuesday and Thursday. Newcastle is known around the country for supporting live music and this late-night New York-style jazz bar is, like the city itself, both approachable and sophisticated. For fans of live music, Queen’s Wharf Hotel , King Street Newcastle , Mad Poet and The Lucky Hotel are all popular pubs for their roster of live music.

 

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3. The city as a canvas   

The streets of Newcastle present like an outdoor art gallery , adding beauty to the everyday with large-scale works by artists such as Fintan Magee, Inari Meyers, Tom Henderson and Sophia Flegg. Hire a Flash E-bike and pedal around the streets to find treasures such as Bronte Naylor’s Mirror Ocean in Civic Square or Sky & Ocean at South Newcastle Beach Skate Park. You can also join Newy Tour Co.’s Discover Newcastle tour to explore city highlights, architectural gems and street art with an expert guide.

Friends take in Newcastle Street Art.
Admire stunning works of art displayed all around you. (Image: Destination NSW)

4. An artist’s view of Newcastle

There’s a real sense of optimism around Newcastle, stemming from its many grassroots art galleries and organisations. The city is home to an eclectic array of artists who gravitate toward different mediums; see their works on show at independent galleries such as The Lock-Up , which operated as a police station from 1861 until 1982, and Lighthouse Arts Newcastle in the light-filled cottages on Nobbys Head/Whibayganba. Stop by The Creator Incubator to see the Little and Big gallery spaces. Newcastle Art Gallery will soon reopen after a recent expansion, so keep an eye out.

5. Newcastle after dark

The small bars confetti’d around Newcastle are a sign of the times. Visitors to the compact city will find a concentration of bars within a small radius, all of which are within easy walking distance or accessible via the light rail. The after-dark experience, which includes theatre and live music, is designed for visitors who are in search of the offbeat and want to celebrate the city’s creativity.  Whether you’re visiting for business or pleasure, the bars that dot most neighbourhoods will tempt you with everything from happy hour to their alt attitude. 

A bartender expertly crafting a drink, with a stunning library of spirits in the background.
Enjoy a night out at a lively bar. (Image: City of Newcastle)

6. Indulge in great gastronomy

Newcastle’s proximity to the Hunter Valley has helped establish it as a sophisticated getaway for gourmands with a passion for provenance. Dining options in the city are diverse, with everything from casual cafes to cantina-style Mexican eateries such as Antojitos , through to fine diners such as Flotilla and Jana Restaurant & Bar at QT Newcastle . Visit during Newcastle Food Month  to get a snapshot of the local culinary scene – you can take note of the many world-class restaurants and cafes that warrant a return visit. Humbug , Peregrin and Bistro Penny should also be on your radar.

The dining area at Flotilla in Newcastle NSW.
Savour a world-class dining experience at Flotilla. (Image: Flotilla)

7. Crystalbrook Kingsley

Crystalbrook Kingsley is another great example of Newcastle’s new wow factor.  Staying at the hotel – in the heart of the cultural centre – makes exploring a breeze, with vintage bikes for guests who want to check out the city streets on two wheels. The design-savvy Crystalbrook Collection reimagined the Roundhouse building while adhering to its ethos of sustainable luxury. The hotel is also a magnet for foodies, with the rooftop Roundhouse restaurant and cocktail bar, Romberg’s, two of the best spots in the city for wining and dining.

The Roundhouse by Crystalbrook Collection.
Step into the reworked Roundhouse by Crystalbrook. (Image: Crystalbrook Kingsley)

8. Newcastle’s creative side on show

Save the date for New Annual , a festival of art, music and ideas from 26 September – 5 October. The program is jam-packed with 10 days of art, culture and creativity. This year’s festival will celebrate the power art has to connect people. Expect to see a diverse program including music, theatre, workshops, and performances in iconic Newcastle locations. Visitors will find a concentration of events within a small radius, all of which are within easy walking distance or accessible via the light rail.

Dancers performing gracefully, accompanied by a live orchestra.
Celebrate migration, community and belonging at New Annual.

Plan your next trip to offbeat Newcastle.