QT Canberra: a quirky retreat in the heart of the city

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QT Canberra brings a new meaning to the term ‘political party’.

If only the walls of the QT Canberra could talk. The quirky reimagined hotel has hosted everyone from celebrities to diplomats and political bigwigs over the past decade. And while there might not be as much cloak-and-dagger bed-hopping or backstabbing as per political drama House of Cards, it’s still a see-and-be-seen kind of stay.

Location

The QT brand reimagined the Rydges Lakeside Hotel in Canberra in 2014. And in doing so, it applied its quirky QT formula of ‘crazy + sexy = cool’ to an extensive redevelopment of the 205-room hotel. The original hotel was built at One London Circuit in 1970 and it has great mid-century Brutalist bones.

the hotel lobby of QT Canberra
Stay in the heart of the city at QT Canberra.

QT Canberra now sits in the arts and cultural precinct of New Acton in the so-called ‘capital of cool’. It’s also a short stroll from Lake Burley Griffin, boasting views from either side, and is a great starting point for a self-guided tour of the best things to do in Canberra.

Style and character

Neon Twitter feeds scroll down mirrors next to the reception, and the wallpaper is a brilliant kaleidoscopic pattern of pollies. The central lobby area also features a few glass-domed cabinets filled with politically themed knick-knacks. If you’re here to hobnob with members of parliament, you’ll be right in position.

the bar and lobby at QT Canberra
QT Canberra’s bar and lobby evokes an eclectic but chic ambience.

The hotel has been designed to embrace the arty and edgy luxury that underpins the QT brand, which is best described as minimalist chic with a monochromatic theme brightened by pops of colour and quirk. And although there are a lot of knowing nods to the hotel’s role in Australia’s political history, it’s worth taking a tour of the Museum of Australian Democracy at Old Parliament House to see its influence.

QT Canberra, ACT
Settle in to the QT Lounge at the chic Canberra Hotel.

Facilities

QT Canberra has an onsite restaurant, bar and high tea offering, as well as conference venues, high-speed internet access, room service and undercover parking for guests. You can also hire a bike at reception to take around the nearby lake or take advantage of your Club Lime gym access.

an exclusive dining setup at QT Canberra Sky High Tea
Partake in an afternoon tea at QT Canberra Sky High Tea. (Image: QT Canberra)

Rooms

Although compact, each of the hotel’s rooms and suites are both fun and functional. My suite has a luxurious king-sized custom QT Dream bed and balcony that you can open to breathe in the crisp Canberra air. The pocket-sized bathroom also ticks all the boxes: big mirror, large rain showerhead, good lighting, and quality toiletries from Kevin Murphy.

a look inside the QT Canberra State Suite
QT Canberra State Suite is a stylish two-bedroom penthouse apartment.

Pops of yellow break up the neutral palette of black and white, allowing natural light to butter the space and own the 80s vibes. You will feel like you’re nailing it in your new life as a digital nomad when you book the QT Superior Room, which has fast internet, free wi-fi and an ergonomic desk.

a look inside QT Canberra Superior King Room
Settle in the QT Canberra Superior King Room.

Food and drink

The hotel’s sprawling ground floor is its crowning glory. It encompasses the reception, lobby and lounge areas, plus acts as the entrance to the onsite restaurant, Capitol Bar & Grill. QT is also home to its very own a hidden bar, Lucky’s Speakeasy.

a dimly lit interior at Lucky’s Speakeasy, Canberra
Lucky’s Speakeasy is perfect for an evening cocktail.

Capitol Bar & Grill is one of the city’s best restaurants and is dominated by dark and moody tones. Wooden features and monochromatic, patterned furnishings add a modern feel. It’s also full of playful, cheeky winks and nods to the site’s heavyweight political history.

The menu is both simple and sophisticated, with a focus on fresh produce and Australian flavours. The pasture-fed T-bone Bistecca Fiorentina from the dry-age cabinet coaxes out my inner carnivore and is charred to perfection.

a cosy dining interior at Capitol Bar & Grill, Canberra
Settle in at the Capitol Bar & Grill.

For dessert, I do as the waiter suggests and opt for the tiramisu, with dense layers of creamy mascarpone spiked with a shot of espresso. Choosing from the cheese trolley is also quite the experience and includes some tableside theatrics. I finish with a few wedges of the finest local and imported cheeses, paired perfectly with a glass of red.

Does QT Canberra have access for guests with disabilities?

QT Canberra is fully wheelchair accessible, including Capitol Bar & Grill. There are two wheelchair accessible King rooms for guests with mobility needs. Rooms and common areas can all be accessed via a wheelchair-friendly lift.

Is QT Canberra family-friendly?

The hotel is a great option for families with children. Kids can stay for free when sharing a room with adults if existing bedding is utilised. Two children aged 12 and under can also enjoy complimentary meals (from the designated kids menu only) when accompanied by a paying adult.

Details

Best for: Artsy types looking for a chic stay in the heart of the action.

Address: 1 London Circuit, Canberra ACT

Phone: (02) 6247 6244

Cost: From $554 per night.

Carla Grossetti
Carla Grossetti avoided accruing a HECS debt by accepting a cadetship with News Corp. at the age of 18. After completing her cadetship at The Cairns Post Carla moved south to accept a position at The Canberra Times before heading off on a jaunt around Canada, the US, Mexico and Central America. During her career as a journalist, Carla has successfully combined her two loves – of writing and travel – and has more than two decades experience switch-footing between digital and print media. Carla’s CV also includes stints at delicious., The Sydney Morning Herald, and The Australian, where she specialises in food and travel. Carla also based herself in the UK where she worked at Conde Nast Traveller, and The Sunday Times’ Travel section before accepting a fulltime role as part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK. Carla and has been freelancing for Australian Traveller for more than a decade, where she works as both a writer and a sub editor.
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This luxe trawler tour is redefining Victoria’s seafood experience

Victoria’s ‘mussel capital’ is the source of exceptional shellfish used by top chefs far and wide. Step aboard a beautifully refurbished trawler to see how these plump and juicy bivalves are sustainably cultivated.

A curtain is slowly winched from the placid, teal waters just off Portarlington , like a floating garland beside our boat. The ropes heave with blue mussels, the star attraction of our tour. But as we reach to pluck our own, it’s quickly clear they’re not alone; a mass of weird and wonderful creatures has colonised the ropes, turning them into a living tapestry. ‘Fairy’ oysters, jelly-like sea squirts, and tiny, wriggling skeleton shrimp all inhabit this underwater ecosystem.

We prize our bivalve bounty from the ropes, and minutes later the mussels arrive split on a platter. The plump orange morsels are served raw, ready to be spritzed with wedges of lemon and a lick of chilli as we gaze out over the bay. They’re briny, tender and faintly sweet. “This wasn’t originally part of the tour,” explains Connie Trathen, who doubles as the boat’s cook, deckhand and guide. “But a chef [who came onboard] wanted to taste the mussels raw first, and it’s now become one of the key features.”

A humble trawler turned Hamptons-style dreamboat

inspecting bivalve bounty from the ropes
Inspecting the bounty. (Image: Visit Victoria/Hannyn Shiggins)

It’s a crisp, calm winter’s day, and the sun is pouring down upon Valerie, a restored Huon pine workhorse that was first launched in January 1980. In a previous life she trawled the turbulent Bass Strait. These days she takes jaunts into Port Phillip Bay under the helm of Lance Wiffen, a fourth-generation Bellarine farmer, and the owner of Portarlington Mussel Tours . While Lance has been involved in the fishing industry for 30-plus years, the company’s tour boat only debuted in 2023.

holding Portarlington mussels
See how these plump and juicy bivalves are sustainably cultivated.

It took more than three years to transform the former shark trawler into a dreamy, Hamptons-esque vessel, with little expense spared. Think muted green suede banquettes, white-washed walls, Breton-striped bench cushions, hardwood tables, bouquets of homegrown dahlias, and woollen blankets sourced from Waverley Mills, Australia’s oldest working textile mill. It’s intimate, too, welcoming 12 guests at most. And yet there’s nothing pretentious about the experience – just warm, down-to-earth Aussie hospitality.

As we cruise out, we crack open a bottle of local bubbles and nibble on the most beautifully curated cheese platter, adorned with seashells and grey saltbush picked from the water’s edge that very morning. Australasian gannets soar overhead, and I’m told it’s not uncommon for guests to spot the odd seal, pod of dolphins, or even the occasional little penguin.

The sustainable secret behind Victoria’s best mussels

blue mussels off Portarlington
Blue mussels sourced just off Portarlington.

Connie and Lance both extol the virtues of mussels. They’re delicious. A lean source of protein and packed with omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin B12, iron, selenium, and zinc. They’re cooked in a flash (Connie steams our fresh harvest with cider and onion jam). And they’re also widely regarded as one of the most sustainable foods in the world.

Portarlington mussels with lemon and chilli
Mussels served with lemon and chilli.

“Aquaculture is [often] seen as destructive, so a lot of our guests are really surprised about how environmentally friendly and sustainable our industry is,” Lance says. “[Our mussels] would filter 1.4 billion litres of water a day,” he adds, explaining how mussels remove excess nitrogen and phosphorus from the water. “And through biomineralisation, we lock carbon into mussel shells.”

a hand holding a Portarlington mussel
Mussels are a sustainable food.

Despite their glowing list of accolades, these molluscs have long been seen as the oysters’ poorer cousins. “It was a really slow start,” explains Lance, who says that in the early days of his career, “you could not sell mussels in Victoria”.

But word has slowly caught on. Chefs as globally acclaimed as Attica’s Ben Shewry and even René Redzepi of Noma, Denmark, have travelled to these very waters just to try the shellfish at the source, sharing only the highest praise, and using Lance’s mussels in their restaurants.

guests sampling Portarlington mussels onboard
Sampling the goods onboard. (Image: Visit Victoria/Hannyn Shiggins)

According to Lance there’s one obvious reason why the cool depths of Portarlington outshine other locations for mussel farming. “The water quality is second to none,” he says, noting how other regions are frequently rocked by harvest closures due to poor water quality. “We grow, without a doubt, some of the best shellfish in the world.” And with Lance’s bold claims backed up by some of the industry’s greatest names, perhaps it won’t be much longer until more Aussies uncover the appeal of Portarlington’s mussels.