10 years later, these are the best towns in Australia

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A decade after rating the best towns in the country, we revisit the list to discover how festivals, food and local determination can put a place on the map.

A lot can change within the space of a decade. In the past 10 years we have had six changes in prime minister (Kevin Rudd filling two spots after his less than triumphant return to the top job from June to September 2013) and five different national cricket captains (including Shane Watson for a grand total of one test match against India). Kylie Jenner has gone from being Kourtney, Kim and Khloe’s annoying little sister to the youngest ever self-made billionaire in the world, and the iPad wasn’t yet a thing.

 

So when we decided to focus our attention on Aussie towns for this issue, based on the continued popularity of our 100 Best Towns in Australia issue, published in 2009, it came as no surprise to discover that things have shifted over the years. Looking through the original list, some towns have increased in popularity, while the fortunes of others have faded; interestingly, some of today’s crowd-pleasers didn’t even rate a mention 10 years ago.

The new top 10

1 Yallingup, WA
2 Byron Bay, NSW
3 Alice Springs, NT
4 Noosa, Qld
5 Broome, WA
6 Port Fairy, Vic
7 Yamba, NSW
8 Merricks, Vic
9 Strahan, Tas
10 Coffin Bay, SA

 

According to a report by the Australian Bureau of Statistics analysing the 2016 census results, the definition of what constitutes a town seems to hinge on population: a small town has fewer than 10,000 residents; a medium town, 50,000; and a large town, 100,000. Ranking firmly in the small town category (it has a permanent population of just a few thousand people when combined with neighbouring Bogangar), Cabarita Beach, located on the Far North Coast of New South Wales, didn’t get a look in on the 2009 list. But the sleepy seaside hamlet of wide beaches and cheerful locals got a serious injection of cool with the opening of Halcyon House in 2015.

 

A former 1960s construction of Besser Blocks and concrete, the property was adoringly renovated by owners Elisha and Siobhan Bickle, working with Brisbane-based designer Anna Spiro. The resulting luxury boutique hotel of 19 rooms and two suites is an insanely chic mélange of fabric walls, vintage and antique furniture, boldly patterned tiles and brilliantly distracting groupings of artworks that have come to be known as Halcyon Hangs. Add to this an award-winning restaurant that draws in locals and out-of-towners alike, and regular mentions on ‘Best of…’ lists from Condé Nast Traveler to Mr & Mrs Smith and the hotel has made the town a must-visit destination in its own right. Somewhere that would definitely rank high on a revised Best Towns list today.

 

The transformative power of a buzz-worthy hotel can also be seen in the Mornington Peninsula town of Merricks. Another non-starter in 2009, the location has been much referenced in the past two years thanks to the arrival of Jackalope Hotel just to its north, a sleek design hotel filled with interesting art (the entrance is presided over by a seven-metre-tall shiny black jackalope sculpture created by artist Emily Floyd) and boasting the award-winning restaurant, Doot Doot Doot.

Jackalope is in the middle of Victoria’s thriving Mornington Peninsula region

By the time Pt. Leo Estate, a boutique winery with a stunning cellar door and restaurant, and extensive sculpture park overlooking Phillip Island in the distance, opened down the road, Merricks’ elevation into the ranks of towns on the rise was assured. Now the Melburnians who flock there on weekends to drink in the atmosphere, as much as the locally produced wines, are increasingly rubbing shoulders and competing for tables with interstaters and international visitors alike.

 

Putting a focus on food and wine has affected the fortunes of quite a few previous entries on the Best Towns list. Mudgee is a perfect example: over the last decade the regional NSW town of just over 12,000 inhabitants a scenic 3.5 hours’ drive north-west from Sydney, has earned a reputation as a foodie hotspot, with its annual Mudgee Wine + Food Festival, held every September, increasing in popularity on an almost yearly basis and drawing visitors from all over the country to its long list of culinary events.

 

The buzz created by festivals like this, teamed with a healthy local economy offering up job opportunities in agriculture, tourism, mining and viticulture, affordable housing prices and a gracious country lifestyle has also made the town an attractive prospect in the past 10 years for city dwellers looking for a tree change.

 

The blissfully situated West Australian town of Yallingup was also a no-show on the 2009 list, but its transformation in the past decade from an under-the-radar beach town with a reputation that hadn’t spread much further than the surfing community to a destination attracting worldwide attention has been spectacular. Case in point: Margaret River and the South West was named as the number one must-visit destination in the Asia-Pacific region by Lonely Planet in 2019.

Canal Rocks on Yallingup’s (WA) stunning coast

The seaside hamlet of just over 1000 residents, according to the last census, has benefitted from the continuing popularity of a good food festival too.

 

The internationally renowned Margaret River Gourmet Escape has attracted a rollcall of celebrity chefs since its establishment in 2012, including the likes of Rick Stein, Nigella Lawson, Curtis Stone and Heston Blumenthal (this year’s festival, from 8–17 November, will be the first under the new banner of Western Australia Gourmet Escape, staging events in Perth and the Swan Valley as well as the Margaret River region).

 

It also has the allure of its natural attractions and a very decent local wine industry that  casts its glow on the nearby towns of Dunsborough and Margaret River, which featured at number 10 on the 2009 list. And Yallingup can also lay claim to one of the most celebrated and luxurious accommodation experiences in the country; the multi-award-winning Cape Lodge sits just 10 kilometres from the town on its own vineyard. It has recently been joined by funky newcomers like Empire Retreat and Spa, situated within the Empire Estate winery, and the architecturally designed Bina Maya Yallingup Escape, ensuring that the visitors who flock here during the warm summer months have plenty of choice when it comes to where to stay in order to enjoy all the sun, surf and chardonnay on offer.

 

Another major mover from the 2009 list is Byron Bay, the boho chic mecca on the Far North Coast of New South Wales. Always a popular summer holiday option for Sydneysiders, who would decamp from Bondi each year to take up residence at Raes on Wategos, the town’s first luxury boutique offering, it is now an international drawcard thanks to its booming food, shopping and accommodation scenes and some seriously high-profile residents; we’re looking at you Chris Hemsworth.

Byron Bay (NSW) continues to play to its strengths of a laid-back beach culture and strong creative community

The Central Australian town of Alice Springs came in at number 13 on the list 10 years ago, but a focus on staging unique cultural events has increased its fortunes and made it a firm entry on many people’s bucket list. From its quirky Beanie Festival (staged in June) to Desert Mob in September, an Indigenous art market that attracts Aboriginal arts centres from all over Central Australia, to Desert Song Festival (September), the settlement of some 25,000 people has strung together a daisy chain of events that keep it buzzing throughout the year. The headlining act on the calendar is undoubtedly Parrtjima, held in April, a festival of light to rival Sydney’s Vivid that sees giant artworks projected across the surrounding landscape including the stunning MacDonnell Ranges.

Step inside Parrtjima: the incredible festival of light

Another inclusion on the original Best Towns list (at number 22) that would have cause for elevation on any new rollcall is the NSW Southern Highlands town of Bowral. Long considered the perfect weekend day trip for scones and tea, the town had a slightly cosy image in the past, but an influx of new residents and businesses – check out the likes of Dirty Janes for vintage, Few & Far for gorgeous homewares and The Press Shop for delicious local fare – has resulted in a cool new image.

 

One thing that hasn’t changed in the last 10 years is the difficulty in choosing just 100 towns to celebrate on a list. Small is still best it seems.

The 100 best Towns in 2009

The top towns in the country as determined by a panel of experts in our 2009 special issue

 

1 Yamba, NSW
2 Esperance, WA
3 Port Douglas, QLD
4 Broome, WA
5 Port Fairy, VIC
6 Beechworth, VIC
7 Byron Bay, NSW
8 Apollo Bay, VIC
9 Strahan, TAS
10 Margaret River, WA
11 South West Rocks, NSW
12 Bright, VIC
13 Alice Springs, NT
14 Lorne, VIC
15 Mallacoota, VIC
16 Hahndorf, SA
17 Burnt Pine, NSW
18 Mission Beach, QLD
19 Daylesford, VIC
20 Noosa, QLD
21 Portsea, VIC
22 Bowral, NSW
23 Fremantle, WA
24 Kangaroo Valley, NSW
25 Broken Hill, NSW
26 Nelson Bay, NSW
27 Bellingen, NSW
28 Leura, NSW
29 Queenscliff, VIC
30 Mudgee, NSW
31 Mossman, QLD
32 Jindabyne, NSW
33 Katherine, NT
34 Airlie Beach, QLD
35 Echuca,VIC
36 Angaston, SA
37 Mataranka, NT
38 Coffin Bay, SA
39 Robe, SA
40 Tilba Tilba, NSW
41 Swansea, TAS
42 Seal Rocks, NSW
43 Pokolbin, NSW
44 Cooktown, QLD
45 Port Lincoln, SA
46 Longreach, QLD
47 Silverton, NSW
48 Huskisson, NSW
49 Streaky Bay, SA
50 Penola, SA
51 Jabiru, NT
52 Stanley,TAS
53 Lightning Ridge, NSW
54 Merimbula, NSW
55 Albany, WA
56 Marysville, VIC
57 Tamworth, NSW
58 Clare, SA
59 Birdsville, QLD
60 Bermagui, NSW
61 Richmond, TAS
62 Coral Bay, WA
63 Denmark, WA
64 Atherton, QLD
65 Picnic Bay, QLD
66 Seventeen Seventy, QLD
67 Mollymook, NSW
68 Rutherglen, VIC
69 Coober Pedy, SA
70 Karumba, QLD
71 Nguiu Settlement, NT
72 Tamborine Mountain,QLD
73 Mt Gambier, SA
74 Kuranda, QLD
75 Dorrigo, NSW
76 Walhalla, VIC
77 Mildura,VIC
78 Berry, NSW
79 Eumundi, QLD
80 Exmouth, WA
81 Dunkeld, VIC
82 Parachilna, SA
83 Sofala, NSW
84 Tumut, NSW
85 Ross, TAS
86 Augusta, WA
87 Kingscote, SA
88 William Creek, SA
89 Wisemans Ferry, NSW
90 Halls Gap, VIC
91 Hervey Bay, QLD
92 Derby, WA
93 Bridport, TAS
94 Wollombi, NSW
95 Evans Head, NSW
96 Adelaide River, NT
97 Nain, WA
98 Kalgoorlie, WA
99 Eagle Bay, WA
100 Deloraine, TAS

From coast to bush: these are Gippsland’s best hikes

Video credit: Tourism Australia

From coast to mountains, hiking in Gippsland offers a stunning array of landscapes, with trails that take you deep into the region’s heritage.

I step out onto the sand and it cries out underfoot. Kweek! I take another step and there’s another little yelp. Screet! Picking up the pace, the sounds follow me like my shadow, all the way down to the water. It’s obvious how this spot got its name – Squeaky Beach – from the rounded grains of quartz that make the distinctive sounds under pressure.

For many, Wilsons Promontory National Park is the gateway to Gippsland , and the best way to explore it is by walking its network of hiking trails, from coastal gems such as Squeaky Beach through to the bushland, among the wildlife. But it’s still just a taste of what you’ll find on foot in the region.

Venture a bit further into Gippsland and you’ll discover the lakes, the rainforest, and the alpine peaks, each changing with the season and offering summer strolls or winter walks. Just like that squeaky sand, each step along these trails has something to tell you: perhaps a story about an ancient spirit or a pioneering search for fortune.

The best coastal hikes in Gippsland

sunset at Wilsons Promontory National Park
Wilsons Promontory National Park is a sprawling wilderness with many coastal bushland trails. (Image: Mark Watson)

Wilsons Promontory National Park (or ‘The Prom’, as you’ll end up calling it) is an easy three-hour drive from Melbourne, but you might ditch the car when you arrive, with much of the park’s 50,000 hectares accessible only by foot. From the inky water of Tidal River (dyed dark purple by abundant tea trees), I like the easy walks along the coast, among lichen-laden granite boulders, to golden beaches and bays.

a couple on Mount Oberon
Panoramic views from the summit of Mount Oberon. (Image: Everyday Nicky)

The trail to the panoramic views at the summit of Mount Oberon is a bit harder, up steep timber and granite steps, but it’s a popular 6.8-kilometre return. The more remote hikes are found through the open banksia and stringybark woodland of the park’s north, or along the multi-day Southern Circuit , which ranges from about 35 to 52 kilometres, with sunrises and sunsets, kangaroos and cockatoos, and maybe even whales.

a golden sand beach at Wilsons Promontory National Park
Walk ‘The Prom’s’ golden sand beaches. (Image: Tourism Australia/Time Out Australia)

You might also see whales on the George Bass Coastal Walk , even closer to Melbourne on the western edge of Gippsland. This dramatic seven-kilometre trail along the clifftops takes in sweeping views of the wild ocean, occasionally dipping down from grassy green hills to coastal gullies and a secluded beach. It also now links into the Bass Coast Rail Trail for an extra 14 kilometres.

the George Bass Coastal Walk
George Bass Coastal Walk trails for seven kilometres along clifftops. (Image: Visit Victoria/Time Out Australia)

Over at the eastern edge of Gippsland, in Croajingolong National Park, you can wander along the lakeshores beneath koalas and around goannas (I keep my distance since one chased me here!). For those who are even more adventurous, the park is also the starting point for the 100-kilometre Wilderness Coast Walk , usually done over seven days.

the Croajingolong National Park, Gippsland
Wander along the lakeshores in Croajingolong National Park. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The best bush hikes in Gippsland

the Baw Baw National Park
The alpine heath of Baw Baw National Park. (Image: Everyday Nicky)

Deep in the Long Tunnel Extended Gold Mine at Walhalla, mining guide Richard tells me how this small town in the mountains east of Melbourne boomed when prospectors found gold here in 1862. These days, you’ll find most of the town’s treasure – its heritage – above ground, with the Walhalla Tramline Walk a wonderful way to explore it.

Just seven kilometres long, the walk takes you through decades of Gold Rush history, following the original rail trail from lush bushland to the mining sites, and through the charming village of just 20 residents with its wooden cottages and old shopfronts adorned with turn-of-the-century advertising posters. Blazing a trail where trailblazers once opened up the region, this is also the starting point for the 650-kilometre Australian Alps Walking Track.

Nearby, Baw Baw National Park has walks through gnarled snow gums and alpine heaths that show off the colourful wildflowers in summer and the pristine carpet of white in winter. Several trails are perfect for snowshoes, including a 45-minute route from St Gwinear up to vast views across the Latrobe Valley.

Further up into the mountains, the Toorongo and Amphitheatre Falls Loop Walk is an easy 2.2-kilometre path that serenades you with the sound of flowing water as you pass mossy rocks and tree ferns en route to two sets of waterfalls cascading over boulders in the remote wilderness.

The best cultural hikes in Gippsland

the Mitchell River National Park, Gippsland
Hike the Mitchell River National Park. (Image: Parks Victoria/Grace Lewis)

Across a pool in a natural sandstone amphitheatre, deep within a cave behind a waterfall, it’s said the Nargun has its lair. A fierce creature, half human and half stone, that abducts children and can’t be harmed by boomerangs or spears, the story of the Nargun has been told around the campfires of the local Gunaikurnai people for generations.

As a culturally significant place for women, hikers are asked not to go into the Den of Nargun, but a 3.4-kilometre loop walk leads you through a rainforest gully to the entrance where you can feel the powerful atmosphere here in Mitchell River National Park , along Victoria’s largest remaining wild and free-flowing waterway.

the bee-eaters at Mitchell River National Park
Bee-eaters at Mitchell River National Park. (Image: Parks Victoria/Grace Lewis)

The Den of Nargun is part of the Bataluk Cultural Trail , a series of important traditional Gunaikurnai sites through central Gippsland. Another location is Victoria’s largest cave system, Buchan Caves Reserve, with trails to important archaeological sites of human artefacts up to 18,000 years old. The FJ Wilson Interpreted Walk includes the naturally sculpted white limestone steps of the 400-metre-long Federal Cave, while the Granite Pools Walk goes among tall timber and moss-covered gullies.

the ancient rainforest of Tarra-Bulga National Park
The ancient rainforest of Tarra-Bulga National Park. (Image: Josie Withers)

Also important to the Gunaikurnai people is Tarra-Bulga National Park , known for its ancient myrtle beeches and enormous mountain ash trees. Just 40 minutes return, the Tarra Valley Rainforest Walk offers a taste of this verdant landscape, while the Grand Strzelecki Track takes you deep into the lost world of forest giants on an epic 100-kilometre trail rich with tradition.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

the WildernessRetreats in The Prom
Wilderness Retreats in The Prom. (Image: Christian Pearson)

Wilderness Retreats in Wilsons Promontory offers glamping-style tents with luxurious queen beds. Star Hotel is a reconstruction of a Gold Rush-era hotel from 1863 in the heart of heritage Walhalla. Caves House is a historic three-bedroom house with views over the Buchan River.

Eating there

the Carrajung Estate, Gippsland
Enjoy a post-hike lunch at Carrajung Estate. (Image: Everyday Nicky)

Kilcunda General Store serves great coffee and meals of local produce at the George Bass Coastal Walk. Alpine Trout Farm is located near Toorongo Falls in Noojee. Fish for your own lunch and barbecue it with the provided cookware.

Carrajung Estate is a short drive from Tarra-Bulga National Park. The winery’s restaurant offers a seasonal menu of regional ingredients and you can stay at The Lodge.

a seafood feast at Carrajung Estate, Gippsland
The table is set for a seafood feast at the estate.

Video credit: Tourism Australia