Australia’s new breed of urban bathhouses

Australia’s next-gen bathhouses blend Japanese and Scandi influences with local design flair to create refreshingly neutral canvases for relaxation. Clare Acheson explores the reclamation of communal bathing.

It has been said that to get more out of life, you need to do a lot less. Australia’s revival of bathing traditions comes at a time when many of us have emerged from an extended period of doing less, with a burning desire to dive shoulder-deep into doing more. Travel, reunions, nightlife and professional catch-ups make up a lengthy list of engagements to be reserved at venues and inked in diaries. It’s thrilling and yet, paradoxically, never before has rest felt quite so necessary.

The restive Adytum space. (Image: Lean Timms) — Relax and restore at Adytum Spa. (Image: Lean Timms)

It shouldn’t be a surprise, then, that bathing – heralded as an ancient ritual that many of us relish when travelling abroad – has emerged as 2022’s activity trump card. Australia’s new breed of urban bathhouses are the pick of the bunch for some solid #metime. To be suspended in water is quite literally to have a weight taken off, doubly so when our phones are locked away for safekeeping lest they come to an unfortunate watery end.

A bath inside Comma, Melbourne. (Image: Tess Kelly) — Take time to pause and draw breathe at Comma. (Image: Tess Kelly)

Inclusivity is a common theme inside these spaces. Boundaries that perpetuate division, such as gender separation and even clothing, are set aside in favour of unspoken unison. Let’s face it: between travel restrictions, vaccine mandates and the May federal election, there’s been a lot to remain divided on. So it’s refreshing, then, to see businesses step forward to break down binaries that have been keeping us apart, both literally and metaphorically.

Architecturally, ideas call upon our collective travels with inspiration drawn from Japanese onsens, Finnish saunas and Nordic ice-bathing traditions woven together by local talent into clean aesthetics that put mindful experiences at the forefront.

Couch and plants fill the waiting room at Sense of Self. (Image: Martina Gemmola) — Indulge in self-care at Sense of Self, which is an oasis of calm. (Image: Martina Gemmola)

Sense of Self, Melbourne

Photogenic Melbourne retreat Sense of Self pioneers what its founding duo describes as “healthy hedonism", which has been designed to be accessible to all. Run by filmmaker Mary Minas and hotelier Freya Berwick, the bathhouse is set up in an industrial factory building that was reworked by an all-female design team that included members of Setsquare Studio, Chamberlain Architects and Hearth Studio. Once inside, it’s impossible to ignore the architecture’s grounding permanence, which is an ode to terrazzo, living copper, concrete and sandstone.

Changing rooms at Sense of Self. (Image: Martina Gemmola) — Switch your phone to ‘SOS only’ at Sense of Self. (Image: Martina Gemmola)

All areas are gender-neutral and a shared mineral bath that’s the size of a small swimming pool features an accessibility hoist so that no visitors are left high and dry. Add an 80°C Finnish sauna, a steam room, chilled plunge pool and bowls of free-flowing healthy nibbles, and it’s easy to lose track of your two-hour booking window.

Nestled amid Collingwood’s trendy bars and restaurants, this bathhouse also offers massages and runs occasional nude bathing evenings; swimmers optional.

Pool at Sense of Self with draping plants above. (Image: Martina Gemmola) — Soak up the space at Sense of Self, Melbourne. (Image: Martina Gemmola)

Comma, Melbourne

Shifting the dial away from lavender-scented massages and pricey facials is Comma , situated in Cremorne’s compact backstreets in Melbourne. Opened in 2020 mid-lockdown, the outpost of the popular Byron Bay wellness treatment centre is dedicated to the ambient effects of being cocooned away from the city and left to your own devices.

A considered, multi-layered design steps your senses down a notch. Hidden within what was once a mechanic’s workshop, Comma features a huge 18,000-litre cedarwood bath, cold-water shower area and infrared sauna that all nod to Scandinavia. There are also obvious influences from Japan , with wooden partitions and split-level mezzanines separating guests from all the worries of the outside world. Sure, it’s indulgent, but it’s also practical, as it leaves you immediately revived. Best of all: you can visit during your lunch break.

Comma is a stylish Japandi (Japanese-Scandinavian) space where visitors can enjoy massages, bathing in a circular cedarwood bath and infrared saunas. Note: spa treatments are only on offer at the Byron Bay location.

Dark colour scheme bathroom at Comma in Melbourne. (Image: Tess Kelly) — Cocoon yourself away at Comma in Melbourne. (Image: Tess Kelly)

Adytum, Canberra

This hidden bathing oasis in Braddon takes its cues from Ancient Greece with a contemporary wellness twist.

In Canberra, Adytum is the city’s standout dedicated bathing destination. Founder Renee Douros notes gender neutrality as being key to the design of the apothecary-style space, which encapsulates bathing and sauna experiences, wellness treatments, a yoga studio, elixir bar and cafe. Designed by Pattern Studio, the Sydney-based outfit behind The Daily Edited’s stunning retail spaces, the architecture champions concrete, wood, brass and balanced aesthetics, encouraging visitors to dedicate an entire day to recharging through reading, resting and dining.

The Apothecary Lab at Adytum. (Image: Lean Timms) — Try the lotions and potions at Apothecary Lab at Adytum. (Image: Lean Timms)

That Adytum’s Ancient Greek name denotes the innermost sanctuary of a temple is twofold and poses the question: What can be found in visitors’ internal chambers once the hustle and bustle is stripped away?

White space at Adytum Spa. (Image: Lean Timms) — Find a way to wellness at Adytum, Canberra. (Image: Lean Timms)

Soak Bathhouse, Brisbane and Mermaid Beach

Of course, for the days when a peppermint tea or chamomile just won’t cut it, there are swanky spaces that offer a glass of something more fortifying while you’re soaking in wholesome minerals. Gold Coast transplant Soak in Brisbane’s CBD boasts cityscape views that can be enjoyed with a cocktail while catching up with old friends or making new ones.

In fact, owner Alexis Dixon hopes that Soak’s modern design brought to life by Space Cubed Design Studio, which usually designs bars and restaurants, will encourage mingling outside of regular social circles and forming new connections with others who value what you value: micro-dosing relaxation to maintain balance in busy lives.

Flowers atop steps at Sense of Self. (Image: Martina Gemmola) — Beautifully styled spaces are a hallmark of the new bathing experience. (Image: Martina Gemmola)

In a world where busyness is so often worn as a badge of honour that quickly becomes a burden to bear, bathing in spaces that are as visually appealing as they are physically restorative is a ritual that deserves to be moved up the to-do list. A reminder that rest is radical, achievable and totally worth our while.

Makers, bakers, artists, chefs, crafters – Ballarat and its surrounds are overflowing with creative spirits. All dedicated to keeping traditional skills alive for a city that is humming with artful energy.

Modern makers: a new generation of artists and artisans

“Keeping craft alive is a noble cause,” says Jess Cameron-Wootten, a charming and passionate master leathercrafter and cordwainer, who handmakes traditional leather boots and shoes in Ballarat’s old Gun Cotton Goods Store.

Ballarat was recognised in 2019 as a UNESCO Creative City of Craft and Folk Art, and today it’s a place where craft traditions converge with contemporary needs. Nothing quite captures this convergence as a visit to Wootten , the workshop and store of Jess Cameron-Wootten and his partner Krystina Menegazzo.

heritage buildings in Ballarat — Ballarat’s streets are lined with heritage buildings. (Image: Matt Dunne)

Jess’s father was an artisan bootmaker, or cordwainer. Now Jess and Krys and their small team of artisans continue the tradition, but with a modern spin. The company’s boots and shoes, made completely from scratch, are renowned for their quality and longevity. Wootten also craft shoes, bags, belts, leather aprons, wallets and more.

Cosy beanies, gloves, alpaca socks, “unbreakable” shoelaces and various other goods – many from local craftspeople and small-scale makers – fill the shop’s shelves. “We’re always happy to support a mate,” says Jess. “People love to see the workshop and where things are made. Our clients care about quality and sustainability,” Krys comments. The company slogan ‘Made for generations’ says it all.

Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery. (Image: Tara Moore)

For Ruby Pilven, craft is also in the DNA – both her parents were potters and with her latest porcelain ceramics, Ruby’s young daughter has been helping add colour to the glazes. “I grew up watching my parents in the workshop – I’ve always been doing ceramics,” she says, although her Visual Arts degree was in printmaking. That printmaking training comes through particularly in the rich layering of pattern. Her audacious colour, unexpected shapes and sudden pops of 12-carat gold are contemporary, quirky – and joyful.

You can see Ruby’s handcrafted ceramics, and work by other local and regional artists, at Ross Creek Gallery , a light-filled space surrounded by serene bushland, across from the mudbrick house her parents built in the 1980s. A 10-minute drive from Ballarat, it’s a tangible link to the region’s well-established craft traditions.

How Ballarat is preserving the past

artisans making crafts at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat — The Centre for Rare Arts & Forgotten Trades holds workshops to preserve crafts and skills.

While tradition is ongoing, there’s a danger that many of these specific type of skills and knowledge are fading as an older generation passes on. Step forward the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades .

The seven purpose-built studios occupy a fabulous modern building adjacent to Sovereign Hill, with state-of-the-art facilities, enormous windows and landscape views across to Warrenheip and Wadawurrung Country.

artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat — Check out artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

Practising artisans run hands-on workshops. Fancy making your own medieval armour? Or trying your hand at blacksmithing, spinning wool, plaiting leather, weaving cane or craft a knife? Book a class and learn how. “It’s about creating awareness and also sharing knowledge and skills before they are lost,” explains Deborah Klein, the centre manager.

A city steeped in food and flavours

Chef José Fernandez preparing American streetfood at Pancho — Chef José Fernandez creates vibrant South American street food at Pancho. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

One skill that hasn’t been lost is that of cooking. Ballarat’s burgeoning gastronomy scene runs the gamut from an artisan bakery (the atmospheric 1816 Bakehouse) to cool coffee shops, speakeasy cocktail bars and distilleries to fine-dining venues. But I’m still surprised to find Pancho , José Fernandez’s South American street food restaurant, serving fried cheese tequeños, fiery fish tacos, Argentinian grilled chicken.

The room is as lively as the food – a whirl of colour filled with gifted and thrifted paintings, photos, tchotchkes (trinkets), plants. There’s a Mexican abuela aesthetic going on here. Even before the music and mezcal kick in, it’s fun. Heads up on the drinks menu – an authentic selection of mezcal, tequila, South American wines and Mexican cerveza.

a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits, Ballarat — Enjoy a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

The spirit is willing, so after lunch we head towards the gold rush-era Ballarat train station and across the line to the old 1860s Goods Shed for Itinerant Spirits . At one end, a massive German copper still looms behind a wall of glass. The fit-out embraces deep olive-green tones, original bluestone walls, steamer trunks as coffee tables, heritage timber floors, oversized lamp shades and cognac-hued modernist leather seating.

the Itinerant Spirits Distillery & Cocktail Bar, Ballarat — The distillery operates from an old goods shed. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Gallivanter Gin, Vansetter Vodka and Wayfarer Whiskey – the key spirits distilled – star at the bar. The spirits are crafted using grains from the Wimmera Mallee region, and native botanicals foraged in the Grampians. Seasonal cocktails are inspired by local people and places (I loved The Headland, inspired by Sovereign Hill and flavoured with old-fashioned raspberry drops). Sample the spirits, and join a cocktail masterclass or a distillery tour. It’s a seductive setting – you’ll likely find yourself ordering a charcuterie platter or pizza as the evening progresses.

The Ballarat stay combining history and luxury

one of the rooms at Hotel Vera, Ballarat — The rooms at Hotel Vera have a contemporary style. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

New lives for old buildings keeps history alive. Vera, Ballarat’s boutique five-star hotel, has taken it to the next level: it’s a palimpsest, a subtle layering of early 1900s and 1930s Art Deco architecture with a sleek new wing. There are seven spacious suites, each a dramatically different colour, with designer chairs, blissful bathrooms. High-end pottery and hand-picked artworks imbue the spaces with personality.

Vera’s intimate, award-winning restaurant, Babae, is subtly theatrical with sheer drapes and gallery lighting, its bespoke timber furniture and brass-edged marble bench setting the stage for food with a sharp regional focus. “We have goat’s cheese from a local supplier, handmade granola from local Vegas & Rose, truffles from nearby Black Cat Truffles, fresh food from our garden, and regional wines,” says joint owner David Cook-Doulton.

Celebrating the local makers, bakers, growers and producers, and the master chefs who work their magic is all part of the rich tapestry that links Ballarat’s history to its vibrant present.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

It’s 90 minutes from Melbourne, either on the Western Freeway, or hop on a V/Line train from Southern Cross Station.

Staying there

Hotel Vera is a centrally located Art Deco boutique hotel. Consider Hotel Provincial , which feels like a sleek country house, but with its own restaurant, Lola.

a contemporary room at Hotel Provincial, Ballarat — Hotel Provincial has country house vibes.

Eating there

dining at Mr Jones, Ballarat — The table is set at Mr Jones. (Image: Tony Evans/ Visit Victoria)

Culinary whiz Damien Jones helms Chef’s Hat winner Mr Jones Dining with quiet assurance. His modern Asian food is deceptively simple with deep, intense flavours. Low-key, laid-back ambience, lovely staff, thoughtful wine list.

Cocktails are definitely a thing in Ballarat. Reynard (fox in French) is foxy indeed, a clubby space with top-notch cocktails and small bites. Grainery Lane is extravagantly OTT with its massive 1880s bar, myriad chandeliers, brass gin still, Asian-inspired food and lavish cocktails.

dining at Grainery Lane, Ballarat — Dining at Grainery Lane.

Playing there

a laneway filled with artworks in Ballarat — An artful laneway in the city. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Check out local design legend Travis Price’s wall murals in Hop Lane with its colourful canopy of brollies, or in Main Street. The Art Gallery of Ballarat’s off-site Backspace Gallery showcases early-career artists in a stylish, contemporary space. First Nations-owned and run Perridak Arts connects people to place, bringing together art and crafts in this gallery/shop.

a woman admiring artworks at Perridak Arts Gallery — Perridak Arts is a First Nations-run gallery. (Image: Tony Evans)

The wineries of the Pyrenees are close at hand with their welcoming cellar doors and robust reds. Join a behind-the-scenes tour at the Centre for Gold Rush Collections .

Don’t forget the giant bluestone Kryal Castle , ‘the land of adventure’, for a little medieval magic, and not just for the kids: get ready for Highland-style feasting, jousting, even overnight stays.