Where to see Australia’s unique wildlife

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Australia boasts a weird and wonderful menagerie of creatures on land, sea and air.

Kangaroo

One half of the national coat of arms (the other is the emu), the kangaroo is one of the country’s most celebrated animals. There are four different species of kangaroo: The Red; Antilopine; Eastern Grey; and Western Grey. The Red holds the distinction of being the world’s largest marsupial; some males stand as tall as six feet and weigh in at 200 pounds.

Fast fact: There are more kangaroos than humans in Australia (roughly 50 million versus 25.7 million), with an estimated 15.8 million red kangaroos alone.

Where to see them: You’ll find kangaroos all over Australia. They’re social creatures, so chances are if you see one there are more close by. They rest during the heat of the day, so the best time to catch sight of them is at dawn and dusk.

Kangaroo with its joey
The kangaroo is one of Australia’s most celebrated animals.

Koala

When it comes to the Aussie animal most visitors want to tick off their list, chances are it’s the koala. This impossibly cute tree-dwelling marsupial mammal survives on a diet exclusively made up of eucalyptus leaves. The trees are also their home, with koalas spending up to 19 hours a day sleeping in them before waking up to feed at night, making them largely nocturnal. While koalas have a pouch like kangaroos, they are more closely related to the wombat.

Fast fact: While they look all chubby and cuddly, koalas have seriously sharp claws and when threatened can run as fast as a rabbit.

Where to see them: Due to the fact that they spend most of their time up trees, koalas can be elusive to spot in the wild. Keep an eye out for them along the Great Ocean Road and on Raymond Island in Victoria, and around Port Stephens and Port Macquarie in New South Wales.

A Koala holding onto a branch
Koalas survive on a diet exclusively made up of eucalyptus leaves.

Wombat

These chubby creatures live in burrows and emerge at night to feast on a diet of grasses, bark and roots. Consisting of three species – the Common Wombat, the Northern Hairy-Nosed Wombat and the Southern Hairy-Nosed Wombat – wombats are an evolutionary wonder: they have a pouch like other marsupials but it faces backwards so that it doesn’t fill with dirt when they are digging. And its rump consists mostly of cartilage so that when it retreats headfirst into its hole it is almost impossible for predators to get a grip on.

Fast fact: Wombats’ poop is shaped like a cube. The theory is that as they mark their territory by defecating, the shape stops it from rolling away.

Where to see them: Wombats thrive in cool, damp environments, so you have a good chance of spotting them in places like Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park and Maria Island in Tasmania, Wilsons Promontory National Park in Victoria, and the Southern Highlands, less than two hours from Sydney.

Wombat looking at the camera
Wombats live in burrows and emerge at night to feast on a diet of grasses, bark and roots.

Possum

When you are out and about at night in Australia, whether in the heart of Sydney or in the wilds of Freycinet National Park in Tasmania, chances are you will catch a glimpse of either a Common Brushtail Possum or a Common Ringtail Possum, the most prolific of Australia’s 23 species of possums.

With their soft fur and sweet faces, possums are one of the easiest marsupials to spot as they are quite adventurous in the pursuit of food. And if you can’t see them, you’re sure to hear them; researchers have identified at least 18 different sounds made by possums including screeching, hissing and grunting.

Fast fact: Both brushtail and ringtail possums have prehensile tails, which they use as a type of hand to cling to trees and carry things.

Where to see them: Brushtail and ringtail possums are found all over the country and are easy to spot when feeding at night – just look up.

Possum looking into the camera
Possums are one of the easiest marsupials to spot.

Wallaby

A marsupial cousin of the kangaroo, wallabies are widely found across the country. Smaller than kangaroos, there are some 30 species of wallaby in Australia including the Rock Wallaby, Swamp Wallaby and the Tammar Wallaby, all of which hop to get around, tend to be more active at dawn and dusk, and carry their young in a pouch. Unlike kangaroos, however, wallabies are solitary creatures.

Fast fact: If a wallaby becomes pregnant while she still has a joey (baby) in her pouch, she can pause the gestation of the new embryo until its sibling has vacated the space.

Where to see them: Wallabies are widespread and plentiful, which means you are in with a good chance of seeing these delightful little creatures in any of Australia’s abundant National Parks.

Wallaby
Wallabies are marsupial cousins of the kangaroo.

Kookaburra

Australia is home to abundant birdlife, but none is more genuinely wondrous than the kookaburra. Also known as the Laughing Kookaburra, this Kingfisher is famous for its loud and clear call that sounds like a hearty belly laugh but is actually a method to warn other birds off its territory.

Fast fact: Kookaburras are believed to pair for life, so when you see one bird its mate will most likely be nearby.

Where to see them: Found predominantly on the East Coast, you will usually hear them before you see them.

Kooraburra
Kookaburras are famous for their loud and clear call that sounds.

Tasmanian Devil

Found exclusively on the island state from which it gets its name, this carnivorous marsupial is actually a lot like its Looney Tunes cartoon persona, a snarling, irascible whirlwind of teeth and attitude. With a vocabulary of growls, grunts and snarls, they are vociferous (and slightly vicious) when threatened or protecting their food.

Fast fact: Further cementing its reputation, the Tasmanian Devil has the most powerful bite of any animal in the world based on its size.

Where to see them: As the devil is nocturnal, it is difficult to see in the wild; instead visit the Tasmanian Devil Conservation Park in Taranna, an easy drive from Hobart, Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary, north of Hobart, or Devils @ Cradle Wildlife Park near Cradle Mountain National Park.

Two Tasmanian Devils
Tasmanian Devils are found exclusively on the island state from which it gets its name.

Also watch out for…

Echidna

This little egg-laying mammal is covered in sharp spikes and eats a diet largely made up of ants, hence its alternative name, the spiny anteater. They thrive in all manner of habitats, too.

Echidna
The echidna eats a diet largely made up of ants.

Emu

The other half of the coat of arms, this flightless bird is the second biggest in the world after the ostrich; they can grow up to 6.5 feet tall. You’ll find them across mainland Australia.

Emus crossing the road
Emus are the second biggest birds in the world after the ostrich.

Platypus

One of only two egg-laying mammals in the world (the other is the echidna), the platypus has a ducklike bill, webbed feet, is covered in fur and sleeps 14 hours a day on average.

Platypus
One of only two egg-laying mammals in the world.

Dingo

Australia’s native wild dog, dingoes are found throughout the mainland states, including in the Northern Territory, and are known for their characteristic howl.

Two dingos
Dingoes are found throughout the mainland states.

Sulphur-crested Cockatoo

You’ll hear these cheeky native birds screeching loudly during the summer months as they dart from tree to tree or hang upside down from electricity wires.

A white Sulphur Crested Cockatoo
Keep your eyes peeled for a Sulphur Crested Cockatoo.

Quokka

Native to Rottnest Island in Western Australia, the cuddly quokka is quite possibly Australia’s happiest marsupial, whose delightful grin has featured in many a cute selfie and social media post.

Quokka smiling at the camera
The cuddly quokka is quite possibly Australia’s happiest marsupial.
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Taking the route less travelled along the Great Ocean Road

The Great Ocean Road has captured the hearts of Australians with its astounding scenery since 1932, but going off-course can enrich your experience with untouched nature, foodie delights and charming towns. 

It’s a chilly 16 degrees. My husband pulls on a steamer and jogs – as all seasoned surfers do – into the water. We’re at Bells Beach , the legendary break on Victoria’s Surf Coast that’s home to the Rip Curl Pro, the world’s longest-running event in competitive surfing. Each year, over the Easter long weekend, up to 40,000 people descend on the region for the event. Today, though, we have the beach almost to ourselves, and the less-than-favourable temperature doesn’t deter my husband from surfing this famous break.  

Bells Beach
Bells Beach is known for its epic surf break and is at the start of the Great Ocean Road. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Torquay to Anglesea and Aireys Inlet 

Split Point Lighthouse
The red dome of Split Point Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The nearby surf town of Torquay marks the starting point for the Great Ocean Road . Unfolding our map, which we have marked out with a highlighted route for our children to follow, we set off for lesser-known Anglesea, a chilled-out town 20 minutes south of here. Its wide, sandy beach is a gentler swimming option for our young family. Groms can learn to surf here with Go Ride a Wave, which also runs stand-up paddle boarding on the Anglesea River.  

Split point lookout
The lighthouse overlooks the Shipwreck Coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)

After a couple of nights in Anglesea, we hit the road again, first stopping at Aireys Inlet. Here we stretch our legs at Split Point Lighthouse, which was made famous by the 1990s television series Round the Twist, before driving under the Memorial Arch that welcomes us, officially, to the Great Ocean Road.  

This 243-kilometre coastal road was built by returned First World War servicemen and serves as a permanent memorial to those who fought and died during the war. Carved into rock using hand tools and horse-drawn carts, it was a huge engineering feat and provided much-needed access to isolated coastal communities. 

Lorne to Birregurra 

Lorne is a delightful beachside stop for lunch and browsing boutique stores. It’s also the gateway to Great Otway National Park , which comprises a varied landscape of old-growth forests, cool-temperate rainforests, heathy woodlands and rugged coast. With the highest rainfall in Victoria, the region is home to many waterfalls – 10 of which are within 10 kilometres of Lorne.  

Turning slightly off the main drag, we wind along a gum-shaded road to Erskine Falls. Here, our son leads the way through the hyper-green rainforest and down 200-plus stairs to the cascade that drops 30 metres into a lush fern gully. We hop over large boulders to get closer to the falls, enjoying the entire place to ourselves; it’s worth the return climb.  

From Sheoak Falls Picnic Area, there are walking trails to Henderson Falls, Phantom Falls, Won Wondah Falls and Kalimna Falls, some of which follow an old timber tramway from forest-logging days, which only came to an end in 2008.  

Erskine Falls
Erskine Falls is one of many falls within a day trip of Lorne. (Image: Visit Victoria)

You can follow your appetite north to the town of Birregurra, which is part of the Otway Harvest Trail that connects farm gates, markets, wineries, breweries and distilleries. It’s home to three-hatted modern Australian restaurant Brae , helmed by celebrated chef Dan Hunter, set among native gardens and an organic farm, and Otways Distillery, which produces small-batch spirits using local produce and botanicals.  

Brae restaurant
Brae is a three-hatted restaurant in Birregurra. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Apollo Bay to The Otways 

Back on track, the cliff-hugging stretch between Lorne and Apollo Bay is breathtaking. At Teddys Lookout, we overlook the winding road ahead and St George River spilling into the ocean. We spend languid days in Apollo Bay, a buzzy seaside town that boasts a three-kilometre-long, crescent-shaped beach with a backdrop of rolling green hills. One evening, as the sun sets, we take the steep 10-minute walk to Marriners Lookout, which affords panoramic views of the ocean, hinterland and town.  

A 15-minute drive along the road, Maits Rest is a lush rainforest gully that has been protected since the early 20th century. Wandering along the 800-metre boardwalk, we inspect the delicate moss-covered forest floor and the gnarled roots of 300-year-old myrtle beech trees, then crane our necks to see their canopies, some 50 metres above us. It’s therapy in nature.  

Cape Otway to the Twelve Apostles 

Twelve Apostles
One of the famous Twelve Apostles, limestone sea stacks that rise from the Southern Ocean. (Image: Ben Savage)

The southernmost tip of Cape Otway is a delightful detour, home to the 1848-built Cape Otway Lightstation, the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. We climb the narrow winding staircase to the gallery deck, explore the keepers’ quarters and telegraph station, and enjoy a coffee and some ‘famous’ scones at the charming onsite cafe.    

It’s a pinch-me moment to finally see the Twelve Apostles in person. This unmistakable cluster of limestone stacks rising abruptly from the sea were never 12, however. When coined this in the 1890s as a marketing ploy, there were only nine; today, only seven remain after two collapsed in 2005 and 2009. We admire these Aussie icons from the viewing platform, in awe of Mother Nature’s ever-evolving artwork.  

The Grotto
The Grotto is another natural attraction within Port Campbell National Park. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

Edging the wild Southern Ocean, this part of the coast – dubbed Shipwreck Coast – is made up of many sea-carved natural wonders including London Bridge, The Grotto and Gibson Steps. After exploring the lookout trails of Loch Ard Gorge/Poombeeyt Kontapool – its English name taken from the site of the 1878 shipwreck – we nestle into the sandy beach encircled by towering sandstone cliffs, as our children splash about on the water’s edge, and soak it all in.  

Port Campbell to Timboon 

Timboon Fine Ice Cream
Timboon Fine Ice Cream is part of a regional foodie trail. (Image: C McConville)

Just north of Port Campbell National Park, the region of Timboon is part of the 12 Apostles Food Artisans Trail, filled with purveyors of delicious foodstuffs such as Timboon Fine Ice Cream , Timboon Railway Shed Distillery and Apostle Whey Cheese. As an antidote to the indulgence, the 20-kilometre Poorpa Yanyeen Meerreeng Trail is a self-guided ride or walk between Port Campbell and Timboon through tall forests, over historic bridges and past sparkling lakes and farmland with grazing cattle.  

Warrnambool to Port Fairy 

Warrnambool building
A 19th-century building in Warrnambool. (Image: Peter Foster)

In Warrnambool, a town rich in maritime history, we take the four-kilometre Thunder Point Walk that traces the coast. The kids squeal when an echidna shuffles out from beneath the wooden boardwalk, and we stop to admire a seal lazing on a rock at the port.  

Further along, the streets of quaint fishing village Port Fairy are lined with 19th-century cottages, old stone churches and Norfolk pines. Follow the historic walking trail to see some of the 60-plus National Trust buildings. Port Fairy is also home to Port Fairy Folk Festival (6-9 March), one of the country’s longest-running music and cultural festivals. You could time your road trip with the event for a fittingly celebratory end to any journey.  

The Great Ocean Road can easily be done in three days, but we’ve spent a week on the road. The highlighted line on our now creased and well-worn map doesn’t follow the famous route precisely. It has sprouted branches in many directions, leading us to untouched rainforest and charming rural towns filled with culinary delights, and where we experienced some of our most memorable moments on the Great Ocean Road.    

A traveller’s checklist 

Staying there

Oak & Anchor
The Oak & Anchor in Port Fairy.

The Monty is a highly anticipated, newly refurbished motel with a chic Palm Springs-inspired aesthetic set across the road from the Anglesea River. Basalt Winery in Port Fairy grows cool-climate wines such as pinot noir and Riesling in rich volcanic soil. Stay among the vines in its tiny home, complete with a kitchen, lounge area and outdoor firepit. 

The Oak & Anchor Hotel has been a Port Fairy institution since 1857. Cosy up by the bar in winter or bask in the sunshine of the Lawn Bar in summer. The rooms are beautifully boutique with considered details, such as luxe baths for sinking into post-road trip. 

Eating there

The Coast in Anglesea is a modern Australian restaurant focused on local ingredients. Grand Pacific Hotel has been a local landmark in Lorne since 1879 and recently underwent a restoration. It serves a mix of traditional pub and Italian fare alongside ocean views.  

Graze is a cosy 40-seat dining room in Apollo Bay with a modern Australian menu complemented by regional wines. Apollo Bay Distillery offers tasting flights, a gin blending masterclass and serves woodfired pizzas.