Cycling Around Australia

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One woman, one bike, one continent – and one sore backside. We sat down with Kate Leeming after she cycled around Australia to find out what keeps her wheels turning.

How would you compare the challenges riding around Australia to your Trans-Siberian ride?

In Russia we were travelling into virtually the unknown. In 1993, the country was undergoing massive political, economic and social upheaval as communism broke down. Prior to this time it was impossible for Westerners to get permission to travel unrestricted within Russia as many regions were “closed".

 

Over a distance of 3500km between Halls Creek and Perth, I only had to camp wild (free) four times, the rest of the time I stayed on stations and farms. It was a really special part of the journey. Even on the road, people would stop to see if I needed any water or food.

 

We always travelled withat least one Russian cyclist to help us with language and general safety. We never had problems finding enough calories, but had extremely limited fresh food and the quality of our diet in Russia was poor. My diet in remote parts of Australia was better, but also far from optimal.

 

The GRACE Expedition was almost twice the length of the Trans-Siberian Cycle Expedition; 9.5 months versus five months at a similar intensity.

 

In Russia there was the Swamp – approximately 1500km in eastern Siberia where there were no roads marked on our US air military maps, and where we had to follow the Trans-Siberian railway line to navigate our way through. We travelled for days with freezing, waterlogged feet. The major obstacle in the Australian expedition was the CSR. Almost 2000km in length, it traverses four deserts and approximately 1000 sand dunes. Here I was battling through temperatures in excess of 40 degrees and where the temperature radiating from the sand can reach 60 degrees, burning my feet.

 

In Russia I was learning more about a very different culture; in Australia I was learning more about my own culture. Interestingly, I learned that the many of the images I had of the Soviet Union during the Cold War were similar to the images our Russian friends had of us during that time. The generosity in both countries, especially in remote regions was constantly humbling.

25,000km. Nine and a half months cycling Around Australia . How many bikes/equipment did you go through?

The same sturdy mountain bike made it all the way; a standard, off-the-peg Giant XTC3 with all suspension removed for maximum strength and ‘bomb-proof’ Tubus rear and front low-rider racks attached.

 

The Canning Stock Route presented many of the best and worst parts.

 

I changed the working parts three times; the chain, gear cassette, chainwheel and derailleur, which wear out, especially on the rough tracks. I used high quality tyres – the road tyres were good for over 10 000km, but I went through a fair number of the softer ‘off road’ tyres, which were very fat to deal with the sand and corrugations. It blows people’s minds now if I ride that bike to work with the odometer reading over 27,000km!

Your book Out There and Back features a section on the Canning Stock Route (CSR), during which you write an extensive day-to-day log. Were there days when you were just too tired to write?

I always made an effort to write something, even if it was abbreviated to a few key words and phrases. Looking back over my diaries, especially the CSR entries, it’s apparent just how exhausted I was; some sentences don’t make sense, I’ve forgotten to finish off words or written off the page with an illegible scrawl.

 

Camping near Well 19, and later at Well 39, I fell asleep sitting upright at the table, mid-sentence.

How do you train yourself physically and mentally to prepare for a journey like this?

After some 30,000km of bicycle travel, prior organising and completing the GRACE Expedition I already had a good idea of what I was getting myself into. Having battled though extreme tiredness, muscular pain and insatiable hunger associated with starting out on previous escapades without adequate preparation, I’d promised myself I’d be better physically prepared for the Australian expedition.

 

While I maintained my usual good base level of fitness in the gym and did manage to test myself with a couple of longer 130km rides (on my racing bike without 30kg of extra load), my physical training was totally inadequate because the last three months of organising the project (expedition logistics, website, sponsors, education program etc) was manic, especially as I also had to work fulltime.

 

I was completely exhausted at the start, stressed and suffering from a distinct lack of sleep. However, nothing really ever prepares you anyway for such an intense workload, day after day. The first couple of weeks were a case of biting the bullet; pacing myself, finding a rhythm and developing little techniques to occupy my mind while in the saddle for six to eight hours a day.

What was the best and worst part of your journey?

The best general highlights included: the adventure, the space and time, the simplicity, the clarity of the desert particularly at dawn and dusk, the characters I met along the journey – especially staying on the remote outback stations, the supreme, “indestructible" feeling of fitness, the satisfaction and the natural high at the end of every day’s effort.

 

The most tedious annoyances included: the flies, a constantly sore backside, headwinds, the rigmarole of packing and unpacking – squeezing everything into four small panniers – wearing the same worn-out, smelly clothes every day, the almost constant veil of tiredness, camping food, and people claiming I was mad without at least trying to understand what I was doing.

 

The Canning Stock Route presented many of the best and worst parts.

Can you tell us about some of the injuries you sustained on the trip?

I managed to avoid any injury bad enough to stop me for any length of time. There were plenty of minor injuries, which made things uncomfortable. On the third last day I skinned my elbow, wrist, shoulder and hip after a headfirst tumble down a gravel hairpin in the Snowy Mountains.

 

On the Gunbarrel Highway and the CSR I came off countless times, regularly landing on sharp spinifex spines, which break off under the skin and result in minor infections.

 

A severe bout of dehydration caused a painful urinary tract infection a few days later and in the south west of WA I was stopped for a couple of days with a violent stomach bug which weakened me for a couple of weeks. In Russia I broke a rib on the Steppe, but continued (in extreme discomfort); it gradually repairing over the next six weeks.

You rode alone for the second half of the trip. How was the solitude compared to having Greg with you?

I asked Greg if he would like to join me for the GRACE Expedition because I knew we were very compatible when it comes to cycling and after the Russian expedition, we knew each other’s strengths, weaknesses and idiosyncrasies well.

 

Travelling with someone means plenty of give and take, making concessions. While our cycling partnership was very strong, I was eager to head off on my own on the CSR, in my own space and going at my own pace. I enjoyed listening to my own body, not having to deal with any complaints, tensions or snoring.

 

In general I like travelling alone, but in doing so there was no one to help share the load or share your experiences.

 

Meal times in particular can be a bit lonely. Travelling alone down the west coast was not as lonely as one might imagine given the distances between any type on civilisation.

 

Over a distance of 3500km between Halls Creek and Perth, I only had to camp wild (free) four times, the rest of the time I stayed on stations and farms. It was a really special part of the journey. Even on the road, people would stop to see if I needed any water or food.

What are some tips you’d give for people wanting to start out on some epic bike journeys?

Be sure of what you’d like to achieve and why. If times get tough, knowing the answers to these questions will help pull you through. Spend time researching your journey – type of terrain, expected range of weather conditions, find out where your food and water might come from, culture of the region, political situation etc.

 

Choose equipment that can cope with the most testing conditions you think you will face. Think of your worst-case scenarios and have a plan to deal with them. Have flexibility within your plan – situations and conditions can change. Try a smaller journey first so that you have some idea of your capabilities. Choose compatible travel companions with like-minded goals.

Were there any moments where you thought “what am I doing?"

When I was lying in the tent very early in the morning, with the promise of another long hot scorcher and a long, lonely road ahead; the tent walls bowing with what was obviously going to be a vicious head wind.

 

The morning after an extreme bout of dehydration on Day 10 of the CSR when I felt physically exhausted, mentally and emotionally drained. I sat down in the sand as if on strike and had to reason with myself, think the whole challenge of the stock route through.

 

After just crossing the Nullarbor and 20,000km complete, my husband announced during a phone call that he was going to leave me. This totally knocked the stuffing out of me and I wondered how I was going to exist let alone finish the last 5000km of the expedition.

Do you remember the first bike you ever had?

Not counting the three-wheelers which were handed down from my older brothers and sisters, the first bike I had, I earned by collecting cow and sheep manure and selling it to people who lived in the nearest town to fertilise their gardens. I used to get $7 per ute load and my first bike, a second hand dragster complete with plastic “flower power" seat, all the rage in the ‘70s, was worth four loads of manure.

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Two immersive art experiences are coming to this Vic town in spring

In recent years, Ballarat has emerged as one of Victoria’s most dynamic and daring cities. And, this spring, two unexpected creative showcases will take over the town.

No matter the season, it’s always a good time to visit Ballarat – but spring might be the most ideal. The weather is warmer, the skies are clearer, the flowers across its botanical landscapes are in bloom. And events in Ballarat transform the city into a playground of creativity.

This year, Ballarat will welcome both new and returning artistic events, best paired with a jaunt through the city’s eclectic array of things to eat, drink and explore. Here’s how to spend a spring weekend in this cool cultural hub.

The events

Two of the most exciting events hitting Ballarat this spring are the 2025 Ballarat International Foto Biennale and the inaugural edition of Sunnyside, a captivating and immersive art extravaganza.

Ballarat International Foto Biennale

Ballarat International Foto Biennale, events in Ballarat
Discover powerful stories through the lens at Ballarat International Foto Biennale. (Image: Astrid Mulder)

Whether you’re a photography enthusiast or simply curious, the Ballarat International Foto Biennale is a must. The event permeates the entire city, with works by over 360 local and international photographers adorning over 100 buildings, businesses, streets and public spaces.

This year marks the 11th chapter and will centre on ‘Lifeforce’ – a theme that’s all about humanity and connection. Among the many talents on show, the headline artist is Campbell Addy, a British-Ghanaian creative who explores roots and identity. Be sure to visit before it ends in 2025 on 19 October.

Sunnyside

The colourful entrance to Sunnyside, one of the newest highlights of Events in Ballarat.
Explore 17 days of bold art at Sunnyside. (Image: Nice To Meet You Again, Morag Myerscough 2023. Photographer: Gareth Gardner)

Sunnyside is making its debut this year, introducing a brand-new celebration of colour, creativity and community to Ballarat. The 17-day celebration, from 6 to 23 November, will feature immersive installations and experiences, talks, a vibrant opening night gala, and workshops covering everything from crochet to neon block printing.

Internationally acclaimed London-based artist Morag Myerscough will lead the celebration and convert Ballarat’s historic Mining Exchange – a gold rush era trading hall – and the city’s streets into a multi-sensory art spectacle.

While you’re there

Don’t miss out on everything else Ballarat has to offer. Here’s where to eat, drink, see and stay in the city.

Where to eat

Vibrant Latin American dishes at Pancho, adding flavour to Events in Ballarat.
Savour bold Latin American dishes at Pancho. (Image: Einwick)

For daytime dining, you’re spoiled for choice. Johnny Alloo does contemporary cafe fare in a warm and inviting space, while Hydrant Food Hall is a popular pick for breakfast and lunch classics. Eclectic Tastes makes seasonal dishes that incorporate plenty of local produce, giving you a great opportunity to taste the region’s flavours.

At night, head to Roy Hammond for delicious cocktails and contemporary Asian-inspired eats or Pancho for vibrant (and very good) Latin American food in fun surrounds. At Hop Temple, you’ll find an incredible selection of craft beers (more than 200, to be exact) and punchy pub fare, or you can head slightly out of town for tasty bistro classics at the historic and character-filled Buninyong Hotel .

In the mood for something fancy? Visit one of Ballarat’s many hatted restaurants, like Babae (produce-driven fine dining inspired by regional Victoria), Mr Jones (modern Asian by a chef with a Michelin pedigree) and Underbar (an ultra-exclusive spot doing ultra-refined tasting menus).

Where to drink

Food and wine tastings at Blue Pyrenees Estate, a refined experience beyond Events in Ballarat.
Relax over wine at Blue Pyrenees Estate. (Image: Visit Victoria)

No matter your poison, you’ll find a venue to suit in Ballarat. Aunty Jacks is a local institution, serving a generous line-up of beers made in the on-site brewery. Renard is perfect for a pre-dinner drink or nightcap, with a menu that spans creative signature cocktails, locally produced wines and Australian spirits.

Try some of Ballarat’s finest creations at one of its many boutique distilleries, including Grainery Lane and Itinerant Spirits. The former specialises in gin and vodka, while the latter offers gin, vodka and craft whiskey. Buy a bottle from either as a memento of your trip.

You can also venture a little further afield to one of the area’s renowned wineries and cellar doors. There are 25 scattered around the Pyrenees (Ballarat’s very own surrounding wine region), including Dalwhinnie, Summerfield and Blue Pyrenees Estate. Eastern Peake – a family-owned winery led by Young Gun of Wine 2025, Owen Latta – is also a must-visit.

What to see

A koala eating eucalyptus leaves at Ballarat Wildlife Park.
Meet a koala at Ballarat Wildlife Park. (Image: Visit Victoria)

If you’ve got time to spare after the thrill of the spring festivities, there’s lots to see and do. More art can be found in the city’s streets and laneways, with local street artists transforming the walls with impressive murals and installations.

Ballarat is equally renowned for its heritage architecture, much of which flourished during the gold rush. Notable buildings include Ballarat Town Hall, Her Majesty’s Theatre and Craig’s Royal Hotel, all located centrally and within walking distance of one another.

Travelling with kids? Head to Sovereign Hill for a living-history adventure or Ballarat Wildlife Park to meet koalas, reptiles and free-roaming kangaroos.

Where to stay

An elegant suite at Hotel Vera, offering boutique comfort.
Enjoy all-out luxury at Hotel Vera. (Image: Visit Victoria)

If you’re venturing to the city by train and want to stay somewhere central, Quest Ballarat Station is an excellent pick. The modern serviced apartments are situated just 250m from the station and a short stroll from downtown Ballarat, making coming, going and exploring the city incredibly easy. There’s also an on-site gym, barbecue area and accessible rooms available.

For a touch of French luxe in regional Victoria, The Provincial Hotel is a standout choice, with gorgeously appointed rooms and suites in a restored heritage-listed building. The hotel is also conveniently located on Lydiard Street, which is lined with grand historic architecture.

If you’re after something truly luxe, book a few nights at Hotel Vera. The exclusive collection of only seven suites presents all-out opulence: think lush linens, designer furniture, works by notable artists and gilded touches. It also happens to house fine-dining favourite Babae, making it an optimal stay if you’re keen to try the restaurant.

Getting there

aerial of hop lane in ballarat
Turn your Ballarat visit into a memorable weekend. (Image: Einwick)

One of the best things about Ballarat is its proximity to Melbourne. It’s only 90 minutes away by car – an easy journey down the Western Freeway – or can be easily reached by rail. The train from Southern Cross to Ballarat Station takes less than 90 minutes and drops you right in the centre of town.

Start planning your stay at visitballarat.com.au.