If ever you were looking for inspiration, that nudge you need to just get out there and get driving, 88-year-old Mary Taylor could well be it. But you’ve got a lot of catching up to do.

Somewhere out on a lonely stretch of road – maybe in northwest Queensland, maybe somewhere in the Territory – there’s a little red car speeding along. Behind the wheel is a woman wearing her deceased husband’s hat over her white hair. In the boot there are many small tins of baked beans, a flagon of sherry and a cask of claret. To pass the time as she drives she’s reading the names of the dried out creeks and the tracks meandering off into the heat and scrub. Dead Horse Creek. Wedding Bell Creek. It’s all history; it’s all fascinating.

 

Mary Taylor, 88, loves to drive. She’s driven herself around Australia at least 12 times, crossed India by train several times in the last days of the Raj and undertook many wartime sea trips. “It’s the getting there I like," she explains. “I only stay overnight. So it’s the open road. It’s the people you meet. Real people." And the “absolute freedom" of driving alone, always alone, through the Australian desert day after day: “I love the desert; there’s something fascinating about the desert."

 

Mary also gives talks about driving around Australia as “an elderly unattached female." At last count she’d given more than 350. She sells her book, Baked Beans in the Outback and Curry in Kashmir, at her talks. In the eight years since she first self-published it for family she’s sold more than 7500 copies.

 

Despite her success and the obvious appreciation from audiences, Mary remains self-deprecating to a fault. “I can’t believe anybody wants to interview me. I’m not that sort of person. Everyone says it was an interesting life. But it was just what happened."

 

She took her first trip at age 74. “My daughter lives in Armadale (Melbourne) and I go up the Princes Highway, and I used to think, ‘What if I kept on going?’ It became an absolute obsession, you’ve no idea."

 

She’d never even driven as far as Geelong before, and only got her license at age 40 while living in Queenscliff, where her late husband Tim taught at the army college. Her family were nervous; when her young grandson reported that her son-in-law had said, “Do you think we should allow her to do this?" she decided, definitely, to go.

 

“I can’t believe parents let their children tell them," Mary laughs. “Why should they? If anybody’s giving permission, it’s the other way around.

 

“People ask aren’t I frightened, aren’t I lonely? I can tell you, you’re much more likely to be mugged in your suburban street. Nobody will leave you by the side of the road in trouble . . . the truckies are marvellous, absolutely marvellous. They’re my lifeline. Not that I’ve needed them, but I know that if I was in trouble . . .

 

“There was one truckie I met at Balladonia Roadhouse [on the Nullarbor] and he was feeding a crow and talking to it. I said, ‘I can’t believe you’ve got a pet crow.’ And he said, ‘He comes up to me every time I stop at Balladonia.’ I said, ‘How do you know it’s the same crow?’ He says, ‘Well, no other crow would come,’" Mary trails off laughing again.

 

“See, I have the best fun because I’m by myself," she continues. “I have people come up and talk to me and that’s where you meet all these gorgeous people. This is where I’m not like your average tourist who wants to go somewhere fantastic. My destination is all the way round and back again. Driving up the Matilda Highway I love, because that’s as close as I can manage to the route taken by Burke and Wills. I think it’s a long way in an air-conditioned car – they either walked or rode their camels up that. Every day wondering when they were going to see the sea."

 

Life in the outback is much harder, isn’t it? “Oh, desperately. I think most of us make a fuss if we can’t get our favourite soap powder or something ridiculous, but people out there, they haven’t got washing machines anyway. They’ve got to be really tough.

 

“Last year when I went through Queensland it was drought time and, I mean, even the native gum trees were dying. That was dreadful. One year I went over when the clouds had just broken and as I was driving across the Nullarbor I couldn’t make out what these – brown rocks, I thought they were – and when I got up close it was kangaroos! They’d all come down to drink the water and they were so thirsty they didn’t bother to move when I went past."

 

And then there was the bull on the road, up in the Gulf of Carpentaria . . . “So there we stayed, the bull and I, locked in eyeball-to-eyeball contact for what seemed like a very long time," Mary says. “Till he decided to amble off and join his mates. Have you been up there? The size of the bulls – the stations up there aren’t fenced. They just have a cattle grid on the road, so you have a lot of roadside cattle."

 

Though nerve-wracking, Mary remained unfazed. “Because we lived through a war," she explains, “looking after children, never knowing if we’d see our husbands again. It was pretty stressful and it taught you to cope. You had to do it yourself. Everybody said [before my first trip], ‘Oh, what if this happens, what if that happens?’ Well, I just say, ‘I’ll deal with it when the time comes.’"

 

How long do you want to keep driving? “I’ve no desire to live to be 100. I keep thinking, and I’ve been saying this for years, that each trip might be my last. I’ve got to pay some respect to my age."

 

As you’re reading this, Mary’s most likely away again, zooming through the beautiful and barren backblocks of the country at a speed she wouldn’t disclose to us. She’ll be alone, of course, and happy. If she’s finally installed her CB into her two-year-old red Honda Jazz she might be talking to the truckies, asking them about the roads and whether she’s taken the right detour.

 

“Galloping Granny calling. Got a copy? Got a copy?"

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The ultimate 8-day Brisbane to Port Douglas road trip itinerary

Explore some of Australia’s most stunning coastlines on this epic route.

This scenic, 1800-kilometre Brisbane to Port Douglas road trip takes in some of Australia’s most beautiful landscapes, from the wildlife on Bribie Island to the rainforests of Far North Queensland. Our advice? Slow it down, take your time and really get to know this part of Australia.

Day 1: Brisbane to Noosa

Wake up in the luxurious Sofitel Brisbane Central , enjoy a hot buffet breakfast and a swim in the outdoor pool before hitting the road to travel north. Take the exit to Bribie Island to view the abundant wildlife.

aerial view of bribie island
Enjoy the beauty and animals of Bribie Island. (Image: TEQ)

In the afternoon, check into Peppers Noosa Resort & Villas hidden near Noosa National Park and spend the afternoon relaxing at the luxury Aqua Day Spa. Daredevils can book a seat on an Ocean View Helicopters tour and experience the adrenaline of exploring the Glasshouse Mountains from the air.

Before dinner, head to the Original Eumundi Markets just 25 minutes away or explore the nearby trails in the national park. For dinner, book a table at Park & Cove located just near your hotel and feast on a locally-sourced menu that changes with the seasons.

table spread at Park & Cove Novotel Sunshine Coast
Refuel at Park & Cove.

Day 2: Noosa to Bundaberg

Wake up to sounds of the rainforest outside your window and take the opportunity for a quick swim before you dive into a freshly cooked buffet breakfast at Park & Cove. After breakfast and an expertly brewed coffee, stroll down the hill and spend the morning shopping along Hastings Street in the various boutiques, or hire a kayak or surfboard and conquer the waves.

After lunch, head north for the three-hour drive to historic Bundaberg . If you feel like feeding a kangaroo or wallaby, visit the Fraser Coast Wildlife Sanctuary . Once in Bundy, head to Spitter’s Farm just outside of town. This 160-acre property offers a unique experience in their deluxe glamping safari tents, where you can listen to the cows mooing as the sun sets.

baby kangaroo at australian wildlife Sanctuary
Say hello to the adorable creatures of Fraser Coast Wildlife Sanctuary. (Image: Jewels Lynch)

Day 3: Bundaberg to Rockhampton

Before getting back on the road, take time to visit the many museums, and, of course, the famous Bundaberg Rum Distillery for a tour. Then head to the Beef Capital of Australia, Rockhampton.

Although, ‘Rocky’ is surrounded by beef cattle farms, your first stop should be to the impressive Rockhampton Museum of Art , which features an art collection valued at over $16 million. Rest your head at the centrally-located Mercure Rockhampton overlooking the mighty Fitzroy River. Grab a quick swim in their outdoor pool before enjoying a steak at their in-house restaurant.

Rockhampton Museum of Art
Take it all in at Rockhampton Museum of Art. (Image: TEQ)

Day 4: Rockhampton to Mackay

Grab a strong coffee at your hotel and drive the short distance to the nearby Capricorn Caves for a morning tour of these natural limestone beauties. Then hit the road for the four-hour drive to Mackay.

Reward yourself with a swim in the large, resort-style pool at the Mantra Mackay . Overlooking the marina, it’s the perfect location from which to explore the city, before enjoying a sundowner and dinner at the popular Latitude 21 on the hotel terrace.

woman exploring the Capricorn Caves in queensland
Explore the Capricorn Caves. (Image: TEQ)

Day 6: Mackay to Townsville

Grab your breakfast to go, then head just out of town to Finch Hatton Gorge. Here, spend the morning ziplining 25 metres above the rainforest floor with Forest Flying . Head to Airlie Beach for lunch and a swim in the famous Airlie Beach Lagoon , before heading north to Townsville.

Hop on a 20-minute ferry – they leave regularly – and check into the stunning Peppers Blue on Blue Resort . Spend the evening swimming in their two pools with views across the private marina to Mount Cook National Park, before feasting on fresh seafood at their on-site restaurant, Boardwalk Restaurant and Bar.

aerial view of beach at Airlie Beach queensland
Dive into the crystal clear waters around Airlie Beach. (Image: TEQ)

Day 7: Townsville to Cairns

After a morning swim on one of Magnetic Island’s beautiful beaches, hop back on the ferry and travel north to the sleepy Mission Beach for lunch. You’ll be sandwiched by rainforest on one side, and the beach on the other.

Continue on to Cairns and check in at the centrally-located Novotel Cairns Oasis, where the lagoon-style pool and swim-up bar alone is worth the visit. Or continue north for 25 minutes to the coastal village of Palm Cove.

Once there it’s a tough choice between the luxurious, five-star Pullman Palm Cove Sea Temple, or the beautifully designed Peppers Beach Club and Spa Palm Cove , where the pool has its very own beach.

two people in deck chairs by Novotel Cairns Oasis' lagoon-style pool
Relax by Novotel Cairns Oasis’ lagoon-style pool.

Day 8: To Port Douglas

No matter where you spent the night, your journey to Port Douglas will be one of the most scenic road trips you’ll ever experience. Following the coastline, travel past champagne-coloured beaches, offshore islands and submerged reefs, before rolling into town at Port Douglas.

Although you’ll be spoilt for choice with hotels, two of the best are Peppers Beach Club Port Douglas, which is closer to town (think stunning pool and walking distance to Macrossan Street) and the famous, five-star Pullman Port Douglas Sea Temple Resort & Spa , located a little further down the beach. If the 3000-metre-squared lagoon-style pool isn’t enough at this hotel, you’ll also find the exclusive Vie Spa and popular restaurant, Aluco Restaurant & Bar , widely known as being one of the finest restaurants in Port Douglas.

aerial view of pool at Pullman Port Douglas Sea Temple
Revive from road-tripping in one of the best pools in Port Douglas.

 Start planning your Queensland adventure at all.com.