If ever you were looking for inspiration, that nudge you need to just get out there and get driving, 88-year-old Mary Taylor could well be it. But you’ve got a lot of catching up to do.

Somewhere out on a lonely stretch of road – maybe in northwest Queensland, maybe somewhere in the Territory – there’s a little red car speeding along. Behind the wheel is a woman wearing her deceased husband’s hat over her white hair. In the boot there are many small tins of baked beans, a flagon of sherry and a cask of claret. To pass the time as she drives she’s reading the names of the dried out creeks and the tracks meandering off into the heat and scrub. Dead Horse Creek. Wedding Bell Creek. It’s all history; it’s all fascinating.

 

Mary Taylor, 88, loves to drive. She’s driven herself around Australia at least 12 times, crossed India by train several times in the last days of the Raj and undertook many wartime sea trips. “It’s the getting there I like," she explains. “I only stay overnight. So it’s the open road. It’s the people you meet. Real people." And the “absolute freedom" of driving alone, always alone, through the Australian desert day after day: “I love the desert; there’s something fascinating about the desert."

 

Mary also gives talks about driving around Australia as “an elderly unattached female." At last count she’d given more than 350. She sells her book, Baked Beans in the Outback and Curry in Kashmir, at her talks. In the eight years since she first self-published it for family she’s sold more than 7500 copies.

 

Despite her success and the obvious appreciation from audiences, Mary remains self-deprecating to a fault. “I can’t believe anybody wants to interview me. I’m not that sort of person. Everyone says it was an interesting life. But it was just what happened."

 

She took her first trip at age 74. “My daughter lives in Armadale (Melbourne) and I go up the Princes Highway, and I used to think, ‘What if I kept on going?’ It became an absolute obsession, you’ve no idea."

 

She’d never even driven as far as Geelong before, and only got her license at age 40 while living in Queenscliff, where her late husband Tim taught at the army college. Her family were nervous; when her young grandson reported that her son-in-law had said, “Do you think we should allow her to do this?" she decided, definitely, to go.

 

“I can’t believe parents let their children tell them," Mary laughs. “Why should they? If anybody’s giving permission, it’s the other way around.

 

“People ask aren’t I frightened, aren’t I lonely? I can tell you, you’re much more likely to be mugged in your suburban street. Nobody will leave you by the side of the road in trouble . . . the truckies are marvellous, absolutely marvellous. They’re my lifeline. Not that I’ve needed them, but I know that if I was in trouble . . .

 

“There was one truckie I met at Balladonia Roadhouse [on the Nullarbor] and he was feeding a crow and talking to it. I said, ‘I can’t believe you’ve got a pet crow.’ And he said, ‘He comes up to me every time I stop at Balladonia.’ I said, ‘How do you know it’s the same crow?’ He says, ‘Well, no other crow would come,’" Mary trails off laughing again.

 

“See, I have the best fun because I’m by myself," she continues. “I have people come up and talk to me and that’s where you meet all these gorgeous people. This is where I’m not like your average tourist who wants to go somewhere fantastic. My destination is all the way round and back again. Driving up the Matilda Highway I love, because that’s as close as I can manage to the route taken by Burke and Wills. I think it’s a long way in an air-conditioned car – they either walked or rode their camels up that. Every day wondering when they were going to see the sea."

 

Life in the outback is much harder, isn’t it? “Oh, desperately. I think most of us make a fuss if we can’t get our favourite soap powder or something ridiculous, but people out there, they haven’t got washing machines anyway. They’ve got to be really tough.

 

“Last year when I went through Queensland it was drought time and, I mean, even the native gum trees were dying. That was dreadful. One year I went over when the clouds had just broken and as I was driving across the Nullarbor I couldn’t make out what these – brown rocks, I thought they were – and when I got up close it was kangaroos! They’d all come down to drink the water and they were so thirsty they didn’t bother to move when I went past."

 

And then there was the bull on the road, up in the Gulf of Carpentaria . . . “So there we stayed, the bull and I, locked in eyeball-to-eyeball contact for what seemed like a very long time," Mary says. “Till he decided to amble off and join his mates. Have you been up there? The size of the bulls – the stations up there aren’t fenced. They just have a cattle grid on the road, so you have a lot of roadside cattle."

 

Though nerve-wracking, Mary remained unfazed. “Because we lived through a war," she explains, “looking after children, never knowing if we’d see our husbands again. It was pretty stressful and it taught you to cope. You had to do it yourself. Everybody said [before my first trip], ‘Oh, what if this happens, what if that happens?’ Well, I just say, ‘I’ll deal with it when the time comes.’"

 

How long do you want to keep driving? “I’ve no desire to live to be 100. I keep thinking, and I’ve been saying this for years, that each trip might be my last. I’ve got to pay some respect to my age."

 

As you’re reading this, Mary’s most likely away again, zooming through the beautiful and barren backblocks of the country at a speed she wouldn’t disclose to us. She’ll be alone, of course, and happy. If she’s finally installed her CB into her two-year-old red Honda Jazz she might be talking to the truckies, asking them about the roads and whether she’s taken the right detour.

 

“Galloping Granny calling. Got a copy? Got a copy?"

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The ultimate new summer guide for the Sutherland Shire

Sunshine, sea breezes and sand-speckled locals: the Sutherland Shire is perfect for an idyllic Sydney summer.

The Sutherland Shire is one of Sydney’s most dynamic regions. Home to an eclectic mix of top-notch eateries and drinking holes, a flourishing arts scene, and striking land and seascapes, it’s a haven for foodies, culture seekers and outdoor enthusiasts alike.

It’s also an ever-evolving destination with a constant wave of new places to eat and drink, and under-the-radar pockets to explore – many of which are dog-friendly.

If you’re venturing to this gorgeous part of the world this summer, here’s your guide to what’s new and worth discovering.

Savour the summer dining scene

Fred’s After Hours on the sutherland shire
Pop into Fred’s After Hours.

The Shire’s buzzing dining scene is one of its biggest drawcards, and many of the region’s culinary highlights can be found in the sun-soaked beachside hub of Cronulla. A bunch of newcomers have recently set up shop, making the area ripe for culinary adventure.

Homer Rogue Taverna is exactly as its name suggests: a cheeky take on classic Greek food. Expect meze and mains bursting with bold flavours and a wine list packed with standout Greek drops.

Freds Providore – a Cronulla favourite for casual cafe fare and excellent coffee – is now open late from Thursday to Sunday. Come sundown, it morphs into Fred’s After Hours, serving a refined European-inspired menu, wines, cocktails and a laid-back yet polished vibe.

Bobbys is a slick destination right on Cronulla Beach, where you can grab a plate of freshly-caught seafood and a summery cocktail while cooling off in the sea breeze.

And if you’re after a bit of everything, the sprawling and multifaceted Parc Pavilion is a melting pot of dining experiences. It blends a cafe, bistro, bar, Italian restaurant and a host of regular events, all tied together in a cool coastal setting.

Got a Saturday morning to spare? The Shire Farmers Market in Sutherland is a must-do ritual, letting you (and your four-legged friend) browse fresh produce, flowers and gourmet treats against a backdrop of live music and local chatter.

Dive into ocean pools

ocean pool on the sutherland shire
The ocean pools beckon.

Given its prime coastal positioning, the Shire teems with crystal-clear ocean pools and enclosed bathing spots. Silver Beach Tidal Baths offers a netted
swimming experience in Botany Bay. Tucked beside a small sandy beach, the tidal baths at Gunnamatta Park are calm and shallow – making them an ideal setting for less confident swimmers.

Just a hop and a skip away is Shelly Park Ocean Pool, a magical rock pool carved in the ocean. It’s well-suited to young kids and offers sweeping views towards the open sea.

Experience local arts and culture

Hazelhurst Arts Centre, Hazel Kitchen & Bar has curated the ultimate picnic experience
See the art at Hazelhurst Arts Centre, then enjoy a picnic with or without your pooch.

Hazelhurst Arts Centre in Gymea is elegantly positioned within a lush garden landscape, serving as the Sutherland Shire’s premier destination for arts and culture. This summer, experience the Art on Paper Award 2025 – a celebration of innovation and creativity through the versatile medium of paper.

Set within the leafy surrounds of Hazelhurst Arts Centre, Hazel Kitchen & Bar has curated the ultimate picnic experience. Think abundant cheese platters, artisan charcuterie boards, fresh OJ and a thoughtfully chosen wine list, all available to take away and enjoy in the art-filled gardens just beyond the restaurant. Best of all, four-legged friends are welcome to join the fun.

Next, venture south to the artsy village of Bundeena for the monthly Bundeena and Maianbar Art Trail . This self-guided journey through local artists’ studios offers a glimpse into their work and creative spaces.

Relish the dog-friendly atmosphere

a dog on Greenhills Dog Beach sutherland shire
Let the dog off-leash at Greenhills Dog Beach.

The Sutherland Shire is a bona fide playground for pups and their humans. Find a string of dog-friendly beaches popular with locals, visitors and pups alike. Silver Beach in Kurnell is a peaceful pocket, allowing dogs off-leash without restriction. While Horderns Beach in Bundeena and Greenhills Beach in Cronulla are equally serene and provide off-leash access (be sure to check times and seasonal restrictions before you go).

If you’re planning to make a weekend of it, book yourself and your pooch into Quest Cronulla . With stylish and spacious pet-friendly accommodation, thoughtful amenities, and a prime location just steps from Cronulla Esplanade and a variety of dog-friendly cafes, it’s the perfect spot to rest after a full day of exploring.

Get into nature

Sunrise at Curracurrong Falls and Eagle Rock in the Royal National Park, Sydney.
Find natural beauty in Royal National Park. (Image: Destination NSW)

You’re spoiled for choice when it comes to outdoor escapes: imagine rugged bushwalks, breezy beachside tracks, meandering cycling trails and lookouts galore. The best part? Many of them are perfectly suited to dogs.

Take your canine to Cronulla Esplanade – the Shire’s version of the famed Bondi to Coogee Walk. This eight-kilometre route takes you past the region’s most picturesque beaches, offering panoramic vistas and an electric energy. It heaves with locals every morning and weekend, getting their steps in with a coffee in one hand and a dog leash in the other.

If you’re travelling without furry friends, stop by the Royal National Park. You’ll be engulfed in ancient bushland, craggy cliffs, towering rock formations, diverse wildlife and twisting tracks. The Jibbon Loop Track is a highlight, with spectacular views over the sea. Alternatively, the Karloo Track forms a loop that winds through untamed bush, freshwater pools and waterfalls. Re-lace your walking shoes or grab a bike to follow The Bundeena Drive to Marley  Walk  past freshwater pools and creeks, on to scenic beach views of Little Marley Beach.

Hit up the beautiful beaches

aerial of cronulla beach and esplanade
Enjoy postcard-perfect beaches. (Image: Destination NSW)

The stretch along Cronulla bursts with postcard-perfect beaches, each offering a different flavour. With rolling waves, regular patrol and a steady stream of beachgoers, Cronulla Beach and North Cronulla Beach are buzzy and built for all kinds of swimmers. Elouera Beach is a quieter option, attracting early-morning surfers hoping to catch the perfect wave.

If you prefer a side of dramatic scenery, visit Wanda or Greenhills – in addition to ocean panoramas, both are backed by towering golden dunes and wild scrub. Looking for something more subdued? Shelly Beach Ocean Pool is a relaxed – yet no less captivating – retreat.

Start planning your Sutherland Shire summer at visitsutherlandshire.com.au.