Gourmet stays – 13 of Australia’s tastiest accommodation

Nikki Wallman Nikki Wallman
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A slew of city hotels are now offering sweetly stylish experiences in slick new surrounds, says Nikki Wallman. Here’s our appetite-whetting guide to the stays you can’t miss.

Soggy club sandwiches. Poorly chosen wine lists. The buffet. Our hotel industry has hardly been the place of culinary genius in recent decades – but a few game changers have begun turning that around of late. Result: a new gourmet scene that’s really starting to cook with gas.

 

“I think hotel guests really appreciate the convenience of having a great restaurant right in the hotel – we find that many of them visit us more than once during their stay," says Brent Savage of Bentley Restaurant + Bar, which last year made the move from a seven-year winning streak in Sydney’s Surry Hills to the city’s Radisson Blu hotel.

 

Matthew Rubie, Frasers Hospitality general manager, says partnering with celeb chef Pete Evans to create healthy menus for thePerth hotel’s new Heirloom restaurant “makes us an ‘urban wellness hub’ offering guests options for nutritious and unpretentious food in the heart of the city."

 

Meanwhile,Melbourne’s Langham Hotel now serves up to 4,000 high teas a month, with almost 12,000 ‘likes’ on Facebook. Their popularity lies with “those who always read the dessert menu first," says the hotel’s managing director, Ben Sington.

 

We’ve found something for everyone – go on, tuck in!

The Shangri-La sweet life, Sydney

Sydney’s Shangri-La hotel already boasts arguably the best views in town, from its spectacular 36th-floor Blu Bar and themed degustation dinners at Altitude Restaurant. But the food here recently climbed to new heights with the recruitment of highly awarded (and brilliant) executive pastry chef Anna Polyviou, who wasted no time introducing a regular ‘Dessert Degustation’ event. The hotel also recently hosted their first ‘Sweet Street’, a heady sugar rush of a food festival, which drew over 500 guests to meet dessert idols like Adriano Zumbo and sample delights including fizzy spider cocktails, dessert ‘hot dogs’ and scrummy gelato. Future similar events are planned, as is the November unveiling of a plush refurbishment of the top five floors, so stay tuned.

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Chef by the harbour, Pier One Sydney Harbour

Pier One Sydney Harbour is set to ramp up its embrace of the stunning Sydney Harbour locale it so elegantly occupies. Bang under the bridge, the hotel was preparing to unveil a big-name international chef and brand-new restaurant (opening in November) – and with that iconic water lapping beneath its foundations, you can bet seafood will be a specialty. We’re told a sustainable, farm (ocean?)-to-table ethos will prevail, with an avant-garde approach to classic dishes. Plans are also afoot to make the most of the stunning pier, including long outdoor lunches, a fab Melbourne Cup event and everything from sunrise Tai Chi to sunset cocktails.

Bentley + Bar, Radisson Blu Hotel,Sydney

For years, local foodies and savvy visitors flocked to Surry Hill’s Bentley Restaurant + Bar, for a slice of the elusive magic that happens when superb wine knowledge and elegantly creative food converge. Now, Bentley has packed up and checked into a slick new ground-floor space at Sydney’s Radisson Blu hotel. We say go for the ‘Bentley Package’: one night in a premier room, a seven-course (yep, seven) tasting menu in Bentley Restaurant + Bar, and breakfast for two the next day. The scallop and foie gras starter dish had us at hello: decadent and disarming, it’s the Bentley on a plate.

Poolside Luxe, Crown Metropol, Perth

Crown Perth’s dazzling array of five-star dining (Bistro Guillaume, Nobu, Rockpool Bar & Grill, Silks…) and up-the-ante additions like Jimmy Wong’s (a new pop-up bar, serving goodies like pulled pork steamed buns and Shanghai dumplings) create an almost overwhelming gourmet playground. And then, there’s the exclusive Enclave: a guests-only plunge pool boasting just six luxurious cabanas complete with huge sofas, sun loungers, plasma TV, karaoke systems, iPod connectivity, robes and slippers and a private butler. Book your patch of paradise, order a poolside spa treatment and, depending on the season, tuck into cocktails and some posh nosh from the Guillaume Brahimi-designed in-room menu: salad nicoise with rare yellow fin tuna; freshly shucked oysters with shallots and red wine vinegar… sigh…

Fattening the duck with Heston, Crown Hotel, Melbourne

Luxury behemoth Crown announced earlier that its Melbourne outpost had secured the dream: a six-month tenure (announced to start 3 February 2015) of one of the world’s most lauded restaurants, UK’s The Fat Duck – along with Heston no-surname-needed himself. The famous tasting menu, the same staff, even parts of the building will be transplanted right here, as well as a kitchen-side Chef’s Table for four lucky diners per service. Bookings will be allocated by ballot; registrations open 9am, Monday 8 October. When Fat Duck returns home, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal will take up a permanent residence – the first of his outside of Britain.

Old-school cool in brand new surrounds, Mayfair Hotel, Adelaide

Within the next few months, Adelaide’s city centre will become home to the brand new five-star Mayfair Hotel. The beds may be new, but the setting is a heritage-listed Colonial Mutual Life building; the food in Mayflower Restaurant and Bar will take cues from that past, pairing local produce with a nod to (the best bits of) the ’70s. Lunch will feature a vintage carving trolley with diehard favourites like quilted leg of ham, slow-cooked porchetta or standing rib of beef carved tableside, and there’ll also be a roving dessert trolley (the stuff of hotel dreams, surely?) laden with sentimental sweet treats from the pastry chef: think chocolate mousse, crème caramel, and trifle.

Sweet relief with a Langham high tea, The Langham, Melbourne

The Langham, Melbourne, has become a sweet superstar thanks to its decadent, elegant and imaginative high teas, hosting special themed events as well as its ‘regular’ (seems the wrong word, somehow) afternoon delights. This year’s wildly popular Burch & Purchese teas – a monthly collaboration with famed pastry chef (and Masterchef regular) Darren Purchese – are set to continue, featuring goodies such as lamington eclairs, salted caramel tarts with smoked vanilla salt, a banana split ‘tube’, and mini strawberry, mint and white chocolate cakes, alongside classic fluffy scones and sandwiches. A special new Wedgwood high tea is also planned for late 2014.

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Sip at a champagne stay, TRYP Wyndham hotel, Brisbane

The youthful, urban ‘TRYP by Wyndham’ hotel brand opened its first Australian outpost in Brisbane this September, featuring artworks from acclaimed street artists and a rooftop bar, Up (licensed till 2am). Thanks to special collaborations with Moët Hennessy and Diageo, the bar will feature Veuve Clicquot as its first-pour champagne and trendy-as-they-come brand Cîroc as its vodka partner. The top-notch drinks will also feature at Chur, the hotel’s outpost of the Sydney gourmet burger joint from former Assiette chef Warren Turnbull. Sounds like quite the party to us – but if you’d prefer to stay in your room, the Veuve is available in half-bottles from the minibar, too.

DIY Barossa, The Intercontinental, Adelaide

You may as well take home some new cooking skills with those extra holiday kilos, right? The InterContinental Adelaide’s monthly masterclasses begin with a tour of the famous Central Market, where executive chef Tony Hart shares the secrets of picking the best seasonal produce before heading back to the hotel to prepare top-notch dishes along a specific theme. The best bit? Chilling out, relaxing and enjoying the results of your hard work – along with some award-winning wine (local, of course). Recent classes have included the art of mastering homemade pasta, seafood, sushi, and superfoods, with a ‘best of South Australian regions’ and a special Christmas masterclass still to come.

Eat, drink and seal a deal, QT, Canberra

QT Canberra’s pop-art politician portraits, spy kits in the minibar and emphasis on upmarket food and drink all help cement its must-stay status. But the (hush-hush) jewel in the crown may well be the members-only, 15th-floor QT Lounge, complete with secret meeting rooms; plush, high-backed furnishings to encourage discretion; well-stocked bar (to help seal the deal) and menu featuring embassy-inspired club sandwiches (we like the sound of the Turkey Club with lemon aioli, raclette cheese, tomatoes, free range egg and crispy pancetta). Perfect for politic heavyweights to kick back or kick on, safe from prying eyes.

Seafood so good you’ll stay all night, Gamboro Hotel, Brisbane

Brisbane’s Gambaro family built the luxurious new Gambaro Hotel right next to their award-winning seafood restaurant in the buzzing Paddington precinct, combining sleek, plush rooms of warm chocolate and caramel tones with the gourmet dining downstairs. Try the signature Queenslandbrown-belly mud crab or tableside flambéed prawns at Gambaro seafood restaurant; or head across the road to Gambaro’s Black Hide Steakhouse for the 1.2-kilogram grain-fed, 120 day wet-aged tomahawk steak. Of course, you could go all-out for the in-room butler service with balcony dining.

Guilt-free gourmet with a side of celebrity, Heirloom restaurant, Fraser Suites, Perth

TV superstar Pete Evans has lent his Midas touch to the newly revamped Heirloom restaurant at the five-star Fraser Suites Perth, designing a menu of seasonal, local and largely good-for-you dishes to leave you holiday-happy. Non-kale-fans, never fear: while there’s a ‘paleo’ influence (that’s low-carb, high-protein for those who don’t speak quinoa) and gluten-free options, the menu features hearty WA sirloin with roasted bone marrow and includes a tiramisu for dessert, alongside lighter offerings like steamed wild barra with sweet potato, lime and coconut sauce and chia; and delish raw cheesecake to finish.

Take a piece of providore, Hobart

Hobart’s two hottest properties (aside from its hotels) would have to be its gorgeous local produce scene and abundant art, and the luxury Henry Jones Art Hotel offers both. We’re particularly taken with the genius idea of the on-site providore at the Jam Packed Café, where 95 per cent of the produce is locally sourced. Take a seat in the atrium and order from the way-above-your-average hotel café menu: pork and fennel croquettes with poached eggs, HuonValleymushrooms, provolone and wild rocket; or IXL jam jaffles with Henry Jones berry jam, lemon sugar and vanilla cream. Then pick up some hazelnut cream (that would be their local version of Nutella) or confit whisky relish to take some delicious memories home.

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Nikki Wallman
Nikki is a freelance writer constantly in search of moments that illuminate the bigger picture: those travel experiences that plug you in to the very best of the natural world, and the best of people; of what they can create and share with curious minds. She also really, really loves food and wine and beautiful design, and discovering how we can all contribute to a more sustainable and fulfilling way of travelling.
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This scenic Victorian region is the perfect antidote to city life

    Craig Tansley Craig Tansley
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    Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

    The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

    There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd. In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

    Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

    ‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

    Exchanging city chaos for country calm

    kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park
    The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

    I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

    I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

    The trails and treasures of the Grampians

    sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd
    Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

    Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

    Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles. I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

    walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain
    Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

    There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail, Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

    Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

    “There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

    wildflowers in Grampians National Park
    Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

    Grampians National Park at sunset
    Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

    The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

    What else is on offer in The Grampians?

    a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola
    Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

    You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

    And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

    dining at Pomonal Estate
    Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

    The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

    Salingers of Great Western
    Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

    There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

    The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

    Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

    And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

    Kookaburras on a tree
    Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

    You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Staying there

    Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity.

    Playing there

    abseiling down Hollow Mountain
    Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

    Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors. Visit Wama, Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium.

    Eating there

    steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

    Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate. Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock, can’t be beat.

    Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park
    The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

    For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe. Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines, Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines.

    two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.