Holland America ms Oosterdam - luxury cruising the 'traditional' way

Australian Traveller magazine seeks the charm and glamour on an old-world vessel: ships inspired by the golden age of cruising. So Helen O’Neill boards Holland America’s MS Oosterdam to see if this cruise ship combines classic good looks with savvy service.

You may not know much about the mysterious art of towel-animal origami when you board a Holland America Line (HAL) vessel but by the end of your trip you will have amassed a positive menagerie.

Each evening as you return to your stateroom (as the cabins are called) you will find, on your perfectly-made bed, anything from a scorpion to a puppy painstakingly constructed from fluffy white hand towels.

Our first towelled critter is a crab, adorned with little paper eyes that seem to follow us around our room. A little retro, admittedly, but sweet.

Life on board Holland America’s ms Oosterdam

Lido Bar on Holland America's MS Oosterdam (cruise) — On the ms Oosterdam, the Lido Bar is a great place for refreshing breaks from swimming, lounging in the hot tub or catching some sun.

We are travelling on the ms Oosterdam, one of the larger vessels of the 15-strong fleet HAL has circumnavigating the planet (with a passenger capacity of 1916). While the ship caters to children and carries a United Nations roll call of guests, the most common accent is American and the typical passenger a retiree.

A significant number are repeat customers – one man can be heard explaining proudly that this is his 20th cruise – and it’s not difficult to see why.

Once you get past the first – of what turn out to be ubiquitous – hand sanitisers (understandable given the recent cruising gastro outbreaks), the ms Oosterdam is like any other good quality, mid-range cruise liner – comfortable, spotless and user-friendly.

But like the rest of the HAL fleet, ms Oosterdam is also a total environment: 100 per cent unashamedly Art Deco, albeit a Disney-fied version. This is the type of sparkling, gilt-edged décor that made cruise ship interiors famous; the kind some love, and some love to hate.

Occasionally, the interiors here drift a little down-market – in the glitzy three-tier auditorium, for example, and the on board casino. But in other areas, like the Promenade Deck and the Piano Bar, the slick, retro styling only adds to what is genuinely charming space.

The eateries are equally varied in both décor and tone, from the often crowded self-service utilitarian Lido Restaurant to the sparkling, silver-service sophistication of the Pinnacle Grill (reservation only).

The Piano Bar on Holland America's MS Oosterdam (cruise) — The Piano Bar on Holland America’s MS Oosterdam (cruise)

Guests have free run of 11 decks, which are all connected by elevators. And in case you are in complete holiday mode, the elevator mats are changed every 24 hours to remind you which day of the week it is.

Outdoor activities, weather permitting, include perambulations on deck three’s wraparound teak promenade (plus optional rest-stops, for those who just can’t resist the lure of a deckchair), the Lido Pool on deck nine (featuring a retractable roof, should the heavens open), the Observation Deck at the stern of deck 10, and the volleyball and basketball courts on deck 11 for the few kids who find themselves on board.

Staterooms on board ms Oosterdam

Veranda Suite on Holland America's MS Oosterdam (cruise) — Veranda Suite on Holland America’s MS Oosterdam (cruise)

First stop is our stateroom, a ‘Veranda’ [sic] suite featuring a queen-size bed (convertible to two singles), lounge area and most dramatically, a private, ocean-hugging balcony. The downside is the bathroom, with a bath too small for any real relaxation and barely enough room to swing a towel-origami cat.

It is tidy and will remain so – daily cleaning and extra touches (fresh fruit, chocolates at turndown, the towel-animal origami zoo) are coordinated by polite, friendly housekeepers exhibiting such fastidiousness and attention to detail (they memorise our names instantly) that you can forgive the ms Oosterdam for seeming, at times, a little tired.

HAL’s ‘newspaper’ Explorer is delivered to each room daily outlining the activities on board. On our second morning at sea, its front page reveals that the forecast is a partly cloudy 68ºF/20ºC and that tonight’s dress code is ‘formal’ – an unenforced formality that will prove to be read by guests on this ultimately laid-back ship as either ‘smart-casual’ or ‘cocktail’… or completely ignored.

Stateroom Ocean View on Holland America's MS Oosterdam (cruise) — Stateroom Ocean View on Holland America’s MS Oosterdam (cruise)

Activities on ms Oosterdam

Explorer lists a dizzying array of activities in which virtually every whim seems catered for – although given the energy levels of some on board, you wonder how much of a wish-list this is. Events kick off at 8:00am with mass, tai chi and yoga, and run through until 11:30pm when ‘DJ Styles’ takes requests at the Northern Lights Disco on deck two.

Vista Show Lounge on Holland America's MS Oosterdam (cruise) — Vista Show Lounge on Holland America’s MS Oosterdam (cruise)

In between there are quizzes, bridge games, art classes, movies, fitness and aqua aerobics sessions, technical workshops (today’s are on camera use, photo editing and email tips) plus a busy 11:00am champagne reception (held in the Pinnacle Bar on deck two), a ‘Singles and Solos’ lunch from 12:30pm, and a convivial 3:00pm Royal Dutch High Tea.

Much is complimentary, including the shows ranging from cheesy individual crooners to surprisingly accomplished cover bands and sparkling song and dance routines. But there is room for retreat by booking a spa treatment or simply settling into one of the comfortable chairs in the Crow’s Nest on deck 10 where, through panoramic windows, you can watch the ocean slide by.

Holland America may not be the most luxurious cruise on the market but there’s an honesty about its approach, and a thoroughness about its service levels, that pays dividends.

Disembarking is tinged with disappointment, not least because our cabinet attendant is yet to create a life-sized towel-origami giraffe or T-Rex, but somehow we find ourselves wishing we’d had time to experience that little bit more.

The Northern Lights Disco on Holland America's MS Oosterdam (cruise) — The Northern Lights Disco on Holland America’s MS Oosterdam (cruise)

Abandoned mills and forgotten paper plants are finding second lives – and helping redefine a city long underestimated.

Just 15 years ago, Federal Mills was a very different place. Once among the most significant industrial sites in Victoria, the historic woollen mill was one of a dozen that operated in Geelong at the industry’s peak in the mid-20th century, helping the city earn its title as ‘wool centre of the world’. But by the 1960s global competition and the rise of synthetic fabrics led to the slow decline of the industry, and Federal Mills finally shuttered its doors in 2001. Within a few years, the abandoned North Geelong grounds had become makeshift pastoral land, with cows and goats grazing among the overgrown grass between the empty red-brick warehouses. It was a forgotten pocket of the city, all but two klicks from the bustle of the CBD.

Geelong cellar door wine bar — Geelong has shed its industrial identity to become an innovative urban hub with reimagined heritage spaces. (Image: Ash Hughes)

Federal Mills: from forgotten factory to creative precinct

Today, the century-old complex stands reborn. The distinctive sawtooth-roof buildings have been sensitively restored. An old silo is splashed with a bright floral mural, landscapers have transformed the grounds, and the precinct is once again alive with activity. More than 1000 people work across 50-plus businesses here. It’s so busy, in fact, that on a sunny Thursday morning in the thick of winter, it’s hard to find a car park. The high ceilings, open-plan design, and large multi-paned windows – revolutionary features for factories of their time – have again become a drawcard.

Paddock Bakery andPatisserie — Paddock Bakery and Patisserie is housed within the historic wool factory. (Image: Gallant Lee)

At Paddock , one of the precinct’s newer tenants, weaving looms and dye vats have been replaced by a wood-fired brick oven and heavy-duty mixers. Open since April 2024, the bakery looks right at home here; the building’s industrial shell is softened by ivy climbing its steel frames, and sunlight streams through the tall windows. Outside, among the white cedar trees, families at picnic benches linger over dippy eggs and bagels, while white-collar workers pass in and out, single-origin coffee and crème brûlée doughnuts in hand.

Geelong: Australia’s only UNESCO City of Design

Paddock Bakery can be found at Federal Mills. (Image: Gallant Lee)

“A lot of people are now seeing the merit of investing in Geelong,” says Paul Traynor, the head of Hamilton Hospitality Group, which redeveloped Federal Mills. A city once shunned as Sleepy Hollow, and spurned for its industrial, working-class roots and ‘rust belt’ image, Geelong has long since reclaimed its ‘Pivot City’ title, having reinvented itself as an affordable, lifestyle-driven satellite city, and a post-COVID migration hotspot.

And the numbers stand testament to the change. In March 2025, and for the first time in its history, Greater Geelong became Australia’s most popular regional town for internal migration, overtaking Queensland’s Sunshine Coast. Current forecasts suggest Geelong will continue to outpace many other Australian cities and towns, with jobs growing at double the rate of the population.

Tourism is booming, too. The 2023-24 financial year was Geelong and The Bellarine region’s busiest on record, with 6.4 million visitors making it one of the fastest-growing destinations in the country. It’s not hard to see why: beyond the city’s prime positioning at the doorstep of the Great Ocean Road, Geelong’s tenacity and cultural ambition stands out.

As Australia’s only UNESCO City of Design, Geelong is swiftly shaking off its industrial past to become a model for urban renewal, innovation, sustainability and creative communities. The signs are everywhere, from the revitalisation of the city’s waterfront, and the landmark design of the Geelong Library and Heritage Centre and Geelong Arts Centre, to the growing network of local designers, architects and artists, and the burgeoning roster of festivals and events. That’s not even mentioning the adaptive reuse of storied old industrial buildings – from Federal Mills, to Little Creatures’ brewery ‘village’ housed within a 1920s textile mill – or the city’s flourishing food and wine scene.

The rise of a food and wine destination

Restaurant 1915 is housed within a restored former boiler house. (Image: Harry Pope/Two Palms)

Traynor credits now-closed local restaurant Igni, which opened in 2016, as the turning point for Geelong’s hospo industry. “[Aaron Turner, Igni’s chef-patron] was probably the first guy, with all due respect, to raise the bar food-wise for Geelong,” he says. “People now treat it really seriously, and there’s clearly a market for it.” While Igni is gone, Turner now helms a string of other notable Geelong venues, including The Hot Chicken Project and Tacos y Liquor, all within the buzzy, street art-speckled laneways of the CBD’s Little Malop Street Precinct. Many others have also popped up in Igni’s wake, including Federal Mills’ own restaurant, 1915 . Housed within the cavernous boiler house, 1915’s interior is dramatic: soaring, vaulted ceilings with timber beams, exposed brick, a huge arched window. The share plates echo the space’s bold character, playing with contrast and texture, with dishes such as a compressed watermelon tataki, the sweet, juicy squares tempered by salty strands of fried leeks, and charred, smoky snow peas dusted with saganaki on a nutty bed of romesco.

The Woolstore , one of The Hamilton Group’s most recent hospo projects, opened in February. It occupies a century-old riverside warehouse and exudes a more sultry, fine dining ambience. Much like Federal Mills, the blueprint was to preserve the original brickwork, tallowwood flooring and nods to the building’s former life. That same careful consideration extends to the well-versed, affable waitstaff as well as the kitchen. Head chef Eli Grubb is turning out an eclectic mix of ambitious and indulgent mod Oz dishes that deliver: strikingly tender skewers of chicken tsukune, infused with hints of smoke from the parrilla grill, and glazed with a moreish, sweet gochujang ‘jam’; nduja arancini fragrant with hints of aniseed and the earthy lick of sunny saffron aioli; and golden squares of potato pavé, adorned with tiny turrets of crème fraîche, crisp-fried saltbush leaves, and Avruga caviar, to name but a few stand-out dishes.

Woolstore menu — Woolstore’s menu is designed for sharing.

Breathing new life into historic spaces

On the city’s fringe, hidden down a winding side road with little fanfare, lies a long-dormant site that’s being gently revived. Built from locally quarried bluestone and brick, and dating back to the 1870s, the complex of original tin-roofed mill buildings is lush with greenery and backs onto the Barwon River and Buckley Falls; the audible rush of water provides a soothing soundtrack. Fyansford Paper Mill is one of few complexes of its time to survive intact. It feels steeped in history and spellbindingly rustic.

“We were looking for an old industrial place that had some charm and romance to it,” explains Sam Vogel, the owner, director and winemaker at Provenance Wines which moved here in 2018. When he first viewed the building with his former co-owner, it was in such a state of disrepair that the tradie tenant occupying the space had built a shed within it to escape the leaking roof and freezing winter temperatures. “To say it was run down would be an understatement,” he notes. “There was ivy growing through the place; the windows were all smashed. It was a classic Grand Designs project.”

Provenance Wines moved to Fyansford Paper Mill in 2018. (Image: Cameron Murray Photography)

The team has since invested more than a million dollars into their new home. Where paper processing machinery once sat, wine barrels are now stacked. Vaulted cathedral ceilings are strung with festoon lights, and hidden in plain sight lies a shadowy mural by local street artist de rigueur Rone – one of only three permanent works by the artist.

While the award-winning, cool-climate pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay naturally remain a key draw at Provenance, the winery’s restaurant is a destination in itself. Impressed already by whipsmart service, I devour one of the most cleverly curated and faultlessly executed degustations I’ve had in some time. It’s all prepared in a kitchen that is proudly zero-waste, and committed to providing seasonal, ethical and locally sourced meat and produce under head chef Nate McIver. Think free-range venison served rare with a syrupy red wine jus and a half-moon of neon-orange kosho, shokupan with a deeply savoury duck fat jus (a modern Japanese take on bread and drippings), and a golden potato cake adorned with a colourful confetti of dehydrated nasturtiums and tomato powder, and planted atop a sea urchin emulsion.

handcrafted pieces — Bell’s handcrafted functional pieces on display.

The complex is home to a coterie of independent businesses, including a gallery, a jeweller, and its latest tenant, ceramicist Elizabeth Bell, drawn here by the building’s “soul”. “There’s so much potential for these buildings to have new life breathed into them,” says Bell, whose studio is housed within the old pump room. “Even people in Geelong don’t know we’re here,” she says. “It’s definitely a destination, but I like that. It has a really calming atmosphere.”

A Melbourne transplant, Bell now feels at home in Geelong, which offers something Melbourne didn’t. “If this business was in Melbourne I don’t think it would’ve been as successful,” she notes. “It’s very collaborative in Geelong, and I don’t think you get that as much in Melbourne; you’re a bit more in it for yourself. Here it’s about community over competition.”

Holland America ms Oosterdam – luxury cruising the ‘traditional’ way

Australian Traveller magazine seeks the charm and glamour on an old-world vessel: ships inspired by the golden age of cruising. So Helen O’Neill boards Holland America’s MS Oosterdam to see if this cruise ship combines classic good looks with savvy service.

Life on board Holland America’s ms Oosterdam

Staterooms on board ms Oosterdam

Activities on ms Oosterdam

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The rise of a food and wine destination

Breathing new life into historic spaces