Warts and all: Memoirs of an Australian Traveller

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Australian Traveller started on a flight to Broome in 2004. Surprising then, that from the age of 14, all I wanted to do was get the hell out of Australia.

As far as I was concerned, life started once I crossed the Australian border and started exploring ‘the world’.

I was a fresh-faced, long-haired 18-year-old backpacker when I first travelled through Europe and the US. My round-the-world ticket cost $1800 and flew me via Colombo, Sri Lanka, on an Air Lanka jet where the rivets popped every time we took off and landed. But no matter.

I lived by the words of a weighty Let’s Go Europe guide that weighed a ton. It led me to the most flea-bitten, cheap accommodation I could afford. I survived a mate almost dying in Zermatt, a crazy Viennese slum lord, homeboys and bed bugs in NYC and several memory-impairing visits to Amsterdam. I survived my youthful wanderlust, in other words. Just.

I returned from my gap year not knowing that’s what I had done. Back then you merely ducked uni for a year and went travelling. Most people thought it strange and exotic and said things like, “Wow, you’re adventurous, aren’t you?" I just thought it was a better use of my time than studying.

I took a job in publishing with the hope of using it to fund my travel. It worked.

The boss deported me to Singapore for 18 months, then London for two and a half years. I hated Singapore and loved London.

The summer holidays in Italy were glorious – long days in Florence, the Tuscan coast, Rome and even a week-long sojourn in Venice. It was everything I had always wanted. I didn’t want to leave.

Unfortunately, I returned to Australia earlier than I had hoped to (thanks, boss), this time with a de-facto English girlfriend in tow.

To kick off the Australian leg of our relationship, I booked us a holiday in Broome. It was May 2004.

Flying over Roebuck Bay, I looked down and for the first time, saw the amazing aquamarine water lapping up against the pindan soil of Outback Australia. Why had I never been here?

I was embarrassed. I had seen the world and not seen my own country. Worse – I had never wanted to see my own country.

As the Virgin Blue flight bounced onto the tarmac, my brain synapses seemed to be aligning in one heightened moment. An idea lit up my brain, like a child on red cordial: Australian Traveller. A magazine for those who’ve travelled the world but not their own backyard. People like me. I was electrified by the idea.

I pitched the idea to my flatmate Nigel the night we returned from Broome. He asked one question: “is the web address available?"

And so, I became a website owner.

We spent the next six months having a few hundred beers and trying to figure out why people smarter than us had not yet sold their houses to fund the launch of a domestic travel magazine. I could tell you why now. It’s a lot of effort.

In what could be considered a miracle, we launched the magazine on 25 May 2005. We were mates, and now business partners.

On that day the Aussie dollar was buying 76 US cents, John Howard was two years away from Kevin ’07, Australia had held the Ashes for 16 consecutive years and Gwen Stefani’s Hollaback Girl was on top of the charts. Social media was studying journalism at a uni with a decent student bar.

The launch was crazy – we never expected to get death threats. Someone hated us for publishing ‘the 10 ugliest towns in the country’, so much so that they emailed, promising to kill us if they lost a single booking! I was touched they thought we were so powerful.

Readers loved the magazine. Australia as a destination was resting on its post-Olympic and Rugby World Cup bottom whilst Kiwi luxury lodges were the hot topic in antipodean travel.

We were also lucky to have some powerful friends, with former Deputy Prime Minister Tim Fischer being our founding columnist. True to his great passion, almost every destination featured by Tim in two years of columns included a train somewhere.

His role as Chairman of Tourism Australia at the time helped. Having a beer after we published issue #4, Tim was his usual honest self. “Congratulations boys, that’s three more issues than anyone ever expected."

2006 was a breakthrough year. Our first annual 100 – ‘100 Things To Do Before You Die’ is still our best-selling issue of all time.

We followed that up with our first Outback issue, another cracker sale – and the first time I had returned to the countryside that had inspired me into this crazy venture. Shooting the cover on the Mundi Mundi plains, I felt I was living under ‘the big sky’ for the first time.

That year, a lot of relationships started and ended. The English girlfriend decided Australia was a great place to visit but ‘old Blighty’ was probably a better place to live. I didn’t agree but was in love with other things soon enough.

I had never met Aboriginal people who only spoke their native language until I went to Garma. At Cape Arnhem, I was blown away and it dawned on me that most people’s mysticism is the same.

My new girlfriend didn’t like that I was out of contact for the whole 10 days, however. We moved in together when I got back.

For me, qualia started a new era in Australian travel, the first world-class luxury lodge to take it to the Kiwis… And me. I took my now live-in girlfriend there eight weeks after the opening.

That stay wasn’t all smooth sailing. The activities guys had dropped us off for a romantic picnic on our own beach but forgot to bring the picnic, the umbrella or water… let alone any champagne. The staff arrived just when we started to think panic would be the only solution.

My live-in girlfriend cried when we left qualia. (“I’ll never ever get to stay at a place like this again.") We went back for five nights on our honeymoon. She didn’t cry when we left that time – we were headed for Longitude 131.

True to my reformed travelling self, our entire honeymoon was spent in Australia.

Since that moment, Luxury Lodges of Australia have become all the rage. I took my wife to Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa the day after our first son was officially conceived via IVF. She declared it the greatest bed she has ever slept on. “Even better than qualia."

Now when I meet people and they ask, “How long have you been at Australian Traveller?" I only ever say, ‘from the beginning’.

They immediately want to know my favourite place. The answer is always the same. “Depends."

It depends on what you like, what you want and how you like to travel – for there is only one certainty, as far as I can see. That around every corner I’ll be surprised and delighted by yet another piece of this amazing country.

Quentin Long
Quentin Long is the Co-Founder and Managing Director of Australian Traveller Media. Quentin is a sought-after travel media commentator. He is Australia’s most trusted source for travel news and insights, having held weekly radio segments across the country since 2006, and regularly appearing on Channel 9’s Today and A Current Affair programs from 2010. Don't ask him his favourite travel experience as that's like asking him to choose a favourite child. However he does say that Garma Festival is the one travel experience that changed him the most.
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8 experiences that prove The Bellarine is the ultimate multi-gen getaway

No matter your age and no matter your interests, Victoria’s coastal Bellarine region makes for a memorable getaway for the whole family.

Curving into Port Phillip Bay and extending south from Geelong, The Bellarine is a gorgeous coast-meets-country destination. It’s a captivating mix of beachside towns, rolling farms and vineyards, effortlessly cool eating and drinking spots and coastal vistas that seem to stretch beyond the horizon.

Among its many highlights is a plethora of family-friendly activities to suit all ages and all interests. Here’s your guide to the ultimate Bellarine getaway guaranteed to keep every generation happy.

1. Tuckerberry Hill Farm

Tuckerberry Hill Farm
Pick your own fruit at Tuckerberry Hill Farm.

There may be no better way to spend an early morning than by foraging and feasting on your own bounty of berries. At Tuckerberry Hill Farm , you can pick blueberries, strawberries and stone fruit from November through March. Take them home or enjoy on the farm’s sun-dappled grounds.

Tuckerberry also has a regular market selling farm-fresh produce, plus an inviting on-site cafe doing light lunches, drinks, home-baked treats and condiments – many of which incorporate the farm’s own harvest.

2. The Oxley Estate

The Oxley Estate
Wake up to the neighbours.

A memorable holiday starts with a memorable place to stay, and The Oxley Estate delivers. Situated in the relaxed coastal town of Portarlington, the sprawling site offers thoughtfully styled rooms and activities that’ll keep both parents and kids entertained.

Wander the fragrant rose gardens, olive grove and fruit-laden orchards. Meet the resident alpacas, donkeys, goats, sheep, chickens and ducks. Challenge your crew to a round of giant chess or mini golf. Or cool off in the shimmering saltwater pool after a busy day of exploring.

Different room types cater to different groups, with the largest able to comfortably sleep eight.

3. Oneday Estate

Oneday Estate
Taste small batch wines at Oneday Estate.

Oneday Estate is a must-visit. The winery lets you try small-batch, estate-grown shiraz, pinot noir and riesling. It’s also a vibrant and character-filled Sunday lunch spot.

The on-site eatery and bar hosts weekly Sunday Sessions accompanied by tunes from local musicians, a buzzy atmosphere and flavour-packed food and drink. Order a round of delicious woodfired pizzas with toppings to suit all tastes, alongside a glass of Oneday’s signature wine.

The restaurant is also a sight to behold, an eclectic stone-and-timber hall crafted from recycled materials and 100-year-old relics repurposed from the surrounding region.

4. BIG4 Ingenia Holidays Queenscliff Beacon

BIG4 Ingenia Holidays Queenscliff Beacon
Kids will love BIG4 Ingenia Holidays Queenscliff Beacon.

BIG4 holiday parks are renowned for their all-ages appeal, and BIG4 Ingenia Holidays Queenscliff Beacon in the coastal enclave of Queenscliff is no different. The pool and gym are a given, but there’s also a playground, pickleball and basketball courts, a jumbo-sized jump pad, an interactive games arena and an indoor games room equipped with toys, activities and entertainment.

The diverse range of accommodation spans compact studios designed for three guests, all the way up to expansive beach houses accommodating up to 10, providing comfort and flexibility to suit every size of family.

5. Bellarine Railway

Bellarine Railway
Take a journey aboard the Bellarine Railway.

If your entourage includes any locomotive enthusiasts, book a journey aboard the Bellarine Railway . The more than 100-year-old steam train transports you to a bygone era and takes you through the rolling farmland and windswept coastal landscapes that make The Bellarine so beautiful.

The Swan Bay Express is an easy 45-minute ride perfect for younger passengers (and even allows dogs on board), or you could opt for a themed trip. There are seasonal events like the Polar Express (a festive favourite in the lead-up to Christmas), along with the Blues Train (a high-energy experience of live music and dancing) and the Q Train (a roving fine-dining feast celebrating regional produce).

6. The Dunes

waiter holding desserts at The Dunes, the bellarine
Save room for dessert. (Image: Visit Vic)

The Dunes offers the perfect balance of polished and playful, a breezy beachside bar and restaurant that appeals to adults and kids alike.

Feast on moreish snacks, share plates and mains from the Italian-inspired menu, or a selection of San Marzano-topped pizzas fresh from the wood-fired oven. Pair your meal with a classic cocktail, an ice-cold beer or a glass from the generous drinks menu, which brims with local drops. Little ones are well catered for with a line-up of kid-approved meals for breakfast and lunch.

If you’re simply swinging by en route to the family-friendly beach, grab a bite at The Dunes’ beachside kiosk before strolling down for a paddle or surf.

7. Sea All Dolphin Swims

dolphins playing in The Bellarine
Spot the locals with Sea All Dolphin Swims. (Image: Visit Vic)

The sparkling waters around The Bellarine are home to dolphins, fur seals, little penguins, humpback and southern right whales, plus a flurry of seabirds. Sea All Dolphin Swims lets you see some of these magnificent animals up close aboard one of their small-group vessels.

Head out on a sightseeing tour and spot local wildlife darting around the boat, or dive right in with a swim adventure tour. You’ll be swimming alongside dolphins and seals in their natural habitat – a bucket-list experience you won’t forget fast.

Swimming and snorkelling gear is provided, and guides are trained to ensure a gentle, eco-friendly encounter for both swimmers and sea creatures.

 8. Jack Rabbit

aerial of jack rabbit winery and vineyard
Everyone has a menu to enjoy at Jack Rabbit. (Image: Visit Vic)

Jack Rabbit is a one-stop dining destination, with a casual cafe and refined restaurant in one place.

If your mood leans laid-back, the House of Jack Rabbit is a lovely spot for brunch, lunch or dinner. The cafe serves a produce-driven all-day menu filled with seasonal mains, generous sharing platters and a playful kids menu to suit even the pickiest of eaters.

If you’re after something more elevated, Jack Rabbit Restaurant does plates that change with the seasons and incorporate plenty of local produce. Even younger guests are well catered to, with a considered yet familiar kids’ menu that’s just as vibrant as the grown-up one.

To start planning your trip or for more inspiration, head to visitgeelongbellarine.com.au