Steve Irwin to RM Williams: the most memorable outback characters

hero media
In the red dusty expanse, single-minded, eccentric and sometimes utterly insane personalities thrive. And without question it’s the people who have formed a special bond with the outback that make it so wonderful and unique. Sol Walkling looks at just a few of the amazing people out there who have made the outback what it is today.

Ian Conway

Those born into the seemingly inhospitable wilderness hundreds of kilometres from what most people would consider civilisation consider themselves lucky and rarely leave the place. Some, like Ian Conway, have become modern-day pioneers. The son of an Arunta woman and a Kidman boss drover, Ian grew up on Angas Downs station, three hours southwest of Alice Springs. As a boy, he learned everything there was to know about camels from his Aboriginal grandmother – and transformed that traditional knowledge into his daily bread when he decided to invite tourists in for a cuppa and some bush tucker at his Kings Creek homestead to share his love for the land.

 

Today, the outback camel station and eco lodge owner is the leading exporter of camels in Australia (he also co-founded the Camel Industry Association), plays host to regular documentary film crews as well as tourists and has even retraced Ernest Giles’ steps on his favourite camel, Atwa. It mightn’t seem like a traditional life, but Ian considers himself a keeper of the land – here to look after it until he’s gone – like those before him.

Ian Conway at Kings Canyon
Ian Conway at Kings Canyon. (Image: Tourism NT)

Robyn Davidson

Tracks, A Woman’s Solo Trek Across 1700 Miles of Australian Outback, is the title of a travelogue by this adventuress extraordinaire, whose story also involves camels. Her preparations and taming of the temperamental animals took two years, not counting the countless hours spent looking for them every morning before each day’s ride. Robyn set out on her dangerous and crazy-sounding journey in 1977 practically by herself – dog and four camels aside – to learn about the desert and its traditional owners. She came back an infamous hero who’d walked at times clothed in nothing but her own skin.

Solo trekker Robyn Davidson
Solo trekker Robyn Davidson and Andrew Harper on the Western Simpson Desert Trek. (Image: Camel Tracks)

Burke and Wills

In 1860, Robert O’Hara Burke and William John Wills famously attempted to cross Australia from Melbourne to the Gulf of Carpentaria in order to become the first Europeans to open up the uncharted territory at the heart of Australia. Despite being pretty inexperienced bushmen, they actually completed the north-south part of the journey with their 18-strong team, before perishing on the return journey in June 1861 at Coopers Creek.

 

Although seven people died and only John King, who was in charge of the camels, made it all the way back to Melbourne, the expedition did serve to increase our knowledge of central Australia – and at least disproved once and for all the fanciful notion of an inland sea.

Burke and Wills at the Dig Tree
Burke and Wills at the Dig Tree, painted by Sir John Campbell Longstaff in the late 1800s.

Steve Irwin

A more recent tragic hero’s death in Queensland moved the world, not just Australia. Our beloved Crocodile Hunter, conservationist and self-proclaimed Wildlife Warrior’s rare gift with animals and his larger than life personality earned him worldwide recognition. With his “Crikey" catchcry, broad smile and sparkling eyes, he captured TV audiences and sparked an interest in his conservationist message.

 

He died in 2006 after a stingray’s spine pierced his chest. (Interestingly, a series of suspected revenge attacks on stingrays along the Qld coast soon followed, with several found with their spine-tails severed.)

 

Steve’s daughter, Bindi, who seems to have inherited Dad’s sunny personality, wowed audiences at his memorial service at Australia Zoo, the family’s home, when she gave a speech in front of more than 5000 people, beginning with the words: “My Daddy was my hero." Bindi has since become a celebrity in her own right – just as her father had predicted – with her own TV show, DVD, appearances on US chat shows, and as the youngest ever front-page model for New Idea in 2006. She is also a zookeeper at Australia Zoo and continues her father’s conservation work.

The one and only Steve Irwin, RIP. Image by Paul Williams, www.sardrabbit.com

RM Williams

To survive in the outback it helps to be a jack-of-all-trades. Reginald Murray Williams was born over a century ago, in May 1908, and it was during one of his first jobs in WA – helping to establish a mission for Aboriginals – that he found the inspiration for his life: the Indigenous Australians’ mastery over their environment.

 

His job descriptions were as varied as the outback is vast, ranging from horse breeder to miner to stonemason, author and entrepreneur. If it hadn’t been for a chance encounter with a man known as Dollar Mick, who knew how to make pack saddles, RM would’ve likely stayed a very successful (but far lesser-known) well-sinker.

 

Together with Dollar, he perfected the art of boot making using only a single piece of leather, before opening a workshop in Adelaide. His skills must have been rather extraordinary as his first overseas order came from no less than the King of Nepal. In combination with a successful gold mining venture at Tennant Creek, his business quickly turned RM into a multi-millionaire. He must have been quite a sight when he staggered down the street to the bank with bags of gold, shotgun on each side. He passed away in 2003, aged 95, as the nation mourned the end of an era.

The quintessential outback hero, Reginald Murray Williams
The quintessential outback hero, Reginald Murray Williams. (Image: National Archives of Australia)

John Flynn

Born two weeks after Ned Kelly was hung, the life of John Flynn couldn’t have been more different from the famed outlaw’s. Trained as a minister, Reverend Flynn’s defining moment was his arrival in outback Beltana, SA, in 1911. Moved by the hardship of life in the bush, in particular the lack of medical help, his moving report to the Presbyterian Church the following year led to his appointment as head of its “bush department", the Australian Inland Mission.

 

When Flynn started his work, only two doctors served a total area of 1,8000,000km2, using bush hospitals, hostels and ministers-cum-boundary riders on camel or horseback. Faced with the problematic vast distances in the outback, Flynn’s solution came in the form of a letter from Lieutenant Clifford Peel, a young Victorian medical student with an interest in aviation.

 

Even though radios and planes were very much in their infancy in 1917, Peel’s letter impressed the reverend and was the first step towards the establishment of the Royal Flying Doctors Service, and today more than 20 bases span the length and breadth of Australia.

The Reverend John Flynn
The Reverend John Flynn. (Image: Royal Flying Doctors Service)
hero media

Your guide to what’s new and exciting this summer on the Central Coast

    Kassia ByrnesBy Kassia Byrnes
    From serene natural beauty to vibrant nightlife, with plenty of arts and culture in between, the NSW Central Coast has been enjoying a serious glow up.

    Just one hour from Sydney, the Central Coast has long been the perfect seaside getaway. And with its ECO Destination certification with a focus on sustainability, it’s a trip travellers can feel good about, too. Recently, new and exciting openings have turned the Central Coast into a place where incredible natural beauty is still on the table, but so is a vibrant and sophisticated arts, dining and nightlife scene.

    Find out what’s new to discover on the Central Coast.

    1. Gosford’s glow up

    room at voco gosford
    Book into voco and experience the best of Gosford.

    Long-time Central Coast lovers will hardly recognise Gosford these days. While always boasting gorgeous water views, a range of revamps and new openings have turned it into a busy hub of arts and culture, with an increasingly diverse and vibrant nightlife.

    Landmark lifestyle hotel voco Gosford is the perfect home base for a Central Coast getaway. At this IHG hotel overlooking sparkling Brisbane Water, guests can spend sunny days soaking in the rooftop pool (or just sipping a cocktail beside it). When it comes to meals, you can enjoy multiple venues serving up everything from modern Australian fare to fine-dining Japanese.

    Venture out to lay eyes on the Central Coast’s first permanent Moving Image Gallery (MIG) . Opened this year inside the Gosford Regional Gallery , the immersive space is a showcase of screen-based and digital art. While at the gallery, wander around the Edogawa Commemorative Garden, a traditional Japanese strolling garden complete with teahouse, koi pond and an ornamental bridge.

    Meanwhile, the revamped Gosford Regional Library has even more than books to discover. Now, it’s one of the best in the southern hemisphere – find exhibitions, historical archives and community initiatives for all ages at this perfect family-friendly escape.

    2. Newcomers to the dining scene

    table full of food at Amarilla restaurant terrigal
    Treat yourself to sundowners and snacks at Amarilla.

    The Central Coast has long been the perfect destination for gourmands, with everything from casual eats to fine dining elevating the local offerings. And three new destinations have been added to the map.

    Amarilla at The Haven in Terrigal is the perfect seaside venue for sundowners, with blissed-out beats providing the soundtrack. Book in for golden hour and choose bites from a Spanish tapas menu made for sharing. Do as the locals do and wash it all down with sangria – the Sunday Sangria Sessions have become a local institution.

    Also in Terrigal, Little Miss has brought a premium Mediterranean menu to the waterfront. Try the wagyu tartare with Greek caviar or butter-poached lobster and tomato bisque, paired with inventive cocktails and a handpicked selection of Lebanese wines.

    Over in Ettalong, Bar Toto is perfect for pre- or post-dinner drinks. This award-winning cocktail bar is known for its creative concoctions, along with craft beer, wine and antipasti platters to snack on. The interior sets the mood, with dim lighting and wooden furnishings.

    3. New Central Coast experiences

    winemaker at Firescreek Botanical Winery
    Book an experience at Firescreek Botanical Winery.

    It’s entirely possible (and recommended) to spend a Central Coast getaway relaxing on one of its many peaceful and pristine beaches. But for those who crave more, there’s a long list of options to keep you busy.

    Pop into the iconic Australian Reptile Park to see the new Weigel Venom Centre, a state-of-the-art facility that’s home to over 200 of the country’s most venomous snakes.

    Get out on the water with Sail Central Coast , which offers 20 years of expertise in yacht charters. Book the Sunset Sail & Dine yacht charter for a private afternoon cruising the waterways of Bouddi National Park and Brisbane Water, stopping at Anchor on Hardys for a two-course meal with a cocktail.

    For something completely different, Firescreek Botanical Winery is now offering an Aboriginal Storytelling and Wine Tasting Experience. Learn about local cultures, stories and traditions from an Aboriginal Elder, then enjoy a botanical-inspired wine tasting led by a local winemaking expert.

    4. Central Coast accommodation

    view from a cottage at Noonaweena
    Sleep in the hinterland at Noonaweena.

    There’s simply too much to experience on the Central Coast to only stay for one day. Turn your trip into a relaxing getaway by the beach.

    Allawah , a retreat on the banks of the Hawkesbury River, is accessible only by boat. This secluded two-bedroom cottage is the perfect place to unwind, allowing you to spend lazy days fishing, kayaking, paddling or unwinding with a book on your own private jetty.

    In the Kulnura hinterland, Noonaweena features a range of accommodation styles, from a luxe glamping bell tent to cottages and a treetop suite. It’s a leader in green travel, with 10 years of certification from Eco Tourism Australia. Relax in the onsite wellness centre or get active on various courts and in the gym facilities.

    To stay by the ocean at Toowoon Bay, book into Kim’s Beachside Resort . This adults-only property offers a luxury escape nestled within a sub-tropical rainforest. Along with 36 private timber bungalows, indulge in massages or reiki treatments at the dedicated spa, or stop by the cocktail bar and à la carte restaurant.

    5. Shopping on the Central Coast

    Umina’s Centred Ceramics central coast
    Try your hand at Umina’s Centred Ceramics’ pottery courses.

    For those after unique trinkets, handmade treasures and beautiful homewares, the Central Coast is a haven.

    Markets on the Central Coast have a special flavour. Wander the Umina Beach Markets at twilight, where you’ll find small businesses from the local areas, and the Norah Head Ocean View Markets , where you can soak up good food, live music and artisan finds by the beach after sunset. ‘Tis the season for the Christmas twilight edition of the Avoca Beachside Markets, celebrating the season with pop-up bars, tasty treats and plenty of unique gift options from local artists and producers.

    Galleria Ettalong has also added to the Central Coast’s recent makers and creators renaissance, wrapping cinemas, a dining precinct and over 40 boutique shops into one area.

    Sign up for a pottery course at Umina’s Centred Ceramics , or peruse the shop for a range of one-of-a-kind pottery made on the premises for a special souvenir.

    For more eclectic arts and homewares, pop into Blue Bird Collective Co . This marketplace supports over 35 small, local and handmade businesses, artists and creatives. Take the time to check out fashion, jewellery and homewares that won’t be found anywhere else.

    Start planning your coastal getaway at lovecentralcoast.com .