Steve Irwin to RM Williams: the most memorable outback characters

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In the red dusty expanse, single-minded, eccentric and sometimes utterly insane personalities thrive. And without question it’s the people who have formed a special bond with the outback that make it so wonderful and unique. Sol Walkling looks at just a few of the amazing people out there who have made the outback what it is today.

Ian Conway

Those born into the seemingly inhospitable wilderness hundreds of kilometres from what most people would consider civilisation consider themselves lucky and rarely leave the place. Some, like Ian Conway, have become modern-day pioneers. The son of an Arunta woman and a Kidman boss drover, Ian grew up on Angas Downs station, three hours southwest of Alice Springs. As a boy, he learned everything there was to know about camels from his Aboriginal grandmother – and transformed that traditional knowledge into his daily bread when he decided to invite tourists in for a cuppa and some bush tucker at his Kings Creek homestead to share his love for the land.

 

Today, the outback camel station and eco lodge owner is the leading exporter of camels in Australia (he also co-founded the Camel Industry Association), plays host to regular documentary film crews as well as tourists and has even retraced Ernest Giles’ steps on his favourite camel, Atwa. It mightn’t seem like a traditional life, but Ian considers himself a keeper of the land – here to look after it until he’s gone – like those before him.

Ian Conway at Kings Canyon
Ian Conway at Kings Canyon. (Image: Tourism NT)

Robyn Davidson

Tracks, A Woman’s Solo Trek Across 1700 Miles of Australian Outback, is the title of a travelogue by this adventuress extraordinaire, whose story also involves camels. Her preparations and taming of the temperamental animals took two years, not counting the countless hours spent looking for them every morning before each day’s ride. Robyn set out on her dangerous and crazy-sounding journey in 1977 practically by herself – dog and four camels aside – to learn about the desert and its traditional owners. She came back an infamous hero who’d walked at times clothed in nothing but her own skin.

Solo trekker Robyn Davidson
Solo trekker Robyn Davidson and Andrew Harper on the Western Simpson Desert Trek. (Image: Camel Tracks)

Burke and Wills

In 1860, Robert O’Hara Burke and William John Wills famously attempted to cross Australia from Melbourne to the Gulf of Carpentaria in order to become the first Europeans to open up the uncharted territory at the heart of Australia. Despite being pretty inexperienced bushmen, they actually completed the north-south part of the journey with their 18-strong team, before perishing on the return journey in June 1861 at Coopers Creek.

 

Although seven people died and only John King, who was in charge of the camels, made it all the way back to Melbourne, the expedition did serve to increase our knowledge of central Australia – and at least disproved once and for all the fanciful notion of an inland sea.

Burke and Wills at the Dig Tree
Burke and Wills at the Dig Tree, painted by Sir John Campbell Longstaff in the late 1800s.

Steve Irwin

A more recent tragic hero’s death in Queensland moved the world, not just Australia. Our beloved Crocodile Hunter, conservationist and self-proclaimed Wildlife Warrior’s rare gift with animals and his larger than life personality earned him worldwide recognition. With his “Crikey" catchcry, broad smile and sparkling eyes, he captured TV audiences and sparked an interest in his conservationist message.

 

He died in 2006 after a stingray’s spine pierced his chest. (Interestingly, a series of suspected revenge attacks on stingrays along the Qld coast soon followed, with several found with their spine-tails severed.)

 

Steve’s daughter, Bindi, who seems to have inherited Dad’s sunny personality, wowed audiences at his memorial service at Australia Zoo, the family’s home, when she gave a speech in front of more than 5000 people, beginning with the words: “My Daddy was my hero." Bindi has since become a celebrity in her own right – just as her father had predicted – with her own TV show, DVD, appearances on US chat shows, and as the youngest ever front-page model for New Idea in 2006. She is also a zookeeper at Australia Zoo and continues her father’s conservation work.

The one and only Steve Irwin, RIP. Image by Paul Williams, www.sardrabbit.com

RM Williams

To survive in the outback it helps to be a jack-of-all-trades. Reginald Murray Williams was born over a century ago, in May 1908, and it was during one of his first jobs in WA – helping to establish a mission for Aboriginals – that he found the inspiration for his life: the Indigenous Australians’ mastery over their environment.

 

His job descriptions were as varied as the outback is vast, ranging from horse breeder to miner to stonemason, author and entrepreneur. If it hadn’t been for a chance encounter with a man known as Dollar Mick, who knew how to make pack saddles, RM would’ve likely stayed a very successful (but far lesser-known) well-sinker.

 

Together with Dollar, he perfected the art of boot making using only a single piece of leather, before opening a workshop in Adelaide. His skills must have been rather extraordinary as his first overseas order came from no less than the King of Nepal. In combination with a successful gold mining venture at Tennant Creek, his business quickly turned RM into a multi-millionaire. He must have been quite a sight when he staggered down the street to the bank with bags of gold, shotgun on each side. He passed away in 2003, aged 95, as the nation mourned the end of an era.

The quintessential outback hero, Reginald Murray Williams
The quintessential outback hero, Reginald Murray Williams. (Image: National Archives of Australia)

John Flynn

Born two weeks after Ned Kelly was hung, the life of John Flynn couldn’t have been more different from the famed outlaw’s. Trained as a minister, Reverend Flynn’s defining moment was his arrival in outback Beltana, SA, in 1911. Moved by the hardship of life in the bush, in particular the lack of medical help, his moving report to the Presbyterian Church the following year led to his appointment as head of its “bush department", the Australian Inland Mission.

 

When Flynn started his work, only two doctors served a total area of 1,8000,000km2, using bush hospitals, hostels and ministers-cum-boundary riders on camel or horseback. Faced with the problematic vast distances in the outback, Flynn’s solution came in the form of a letter from Lieutenant Clifford Peel, a young Victorian medical student with an interest in aviation.

 

Even though radios and planes were very much in their infancy in 1917, Peel’s letter impressed the reverend and was the first step towards the establishment of the Royal Flying Doctors Service, and today more than 20 bases span the length and breadth of Australia.

The Reverend John Flynn
The Reverend John Flynn. (Image: Royal Flying Doctors Service)
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The ultimate spring and summer guide to Melbourne

There’s nothing quite like Melbourne in the warmer months. Come spring, the city emerges from its cold-weather cocoon and brims with marquee events, vibrant seasonal menus, brilliant blooms and a fresh energy.

The centre of the city is where most of the magic happens. It’s a labyrinth of art-lined alleys and meandering laneways, filled with restaurants, cafes, rooftop bars, galleries, live music joints, theatres, boutiques, high-end hotels like The Westin Melbourne and much, much more. In spring and summer, especially, locals and travellers alike come to enjoy the balmy weather and celebratory spirit.

If you’re planning to be one of them, here are the best places for eating, drinking, exploring and staying.

Where to stay

The Westin Melbourne

couple inside their room at the westin melbourne
View the city from above in your suite.

Situated in the heart of the city on bustling Collins Street, The Westin Melbourne is a supremely convenient base. With the hotel as a base, explore the entire CBD – including Federation Square and Melbourne’s shopping, dining, theatre and sporting precincts – on foot.

Despite its central location, the hotel is something of an oasis. It has a serene ambience and elegantly understated design that provides respite at the end of a busy day. Think timeless interiors with warm timbers and neutral tones, and spacious rooms with signature Heavenly® beds and sumptuous linens. You’ll also indulge in impeccable service and amenities like fitness and wellness centres and an indoor pool. Selected rooms have sweeping city views.

Where to eat and drink

1. Allegro

Allegro is refined yet welcoming, pairing seasonal Australian produce and international flavours, finished with finesse. The à la carte, set and pre-theatre menus change seasonally. In spring and summer, expect a lively and creative line-up of dishes. You can also partake in a playful and limited-edition High Cheese offering that’s well worth trying if you’re a lover of blues and bries.

The restaurant happens to be located right inside The Westin Melbourne. It’s an ideal spot if you’re staying at the hotel and need somewhere to dine or drink before hitting the town.

2. Lobby Lounge

the westin melbourne lobby lounge
Step into the Lobby Lounge.

Whether you’re after a quick bite before exploring the city, a leisurely lunch or dinner, or a post-theatre nightcap, head to The Westin Melbourne’s elegant Lobby Lounge .

The menu features everything from moreish snacks, small bites and share plates to hearty all-day meals and desserts. The accompanying drinks list is a treasure trove of varietals, with a notable leaning towards Victorian drops and an excellent selection of spirits.

For a truly indulgent experience, book yourself in for the signature high tea . You’ll savour three tiers of beautifully crafted sweet and savoury treats, specialty tea and coffee, and the option for a sneaky glass of bubbly.

3. Other places to dine

diners at supernormal melbourne
There’s no shortage of tasty dining options, in and nearby The Westin Melbourne. (Credit: Visit Vic)

Dotted around the city are some of Melbourne’s most acclaimed dining destinations. Supernormal is a local institution. Feast on inventive Pan-Asian dishes made with fresh ingredients, paired with a Japanese whisky or sake from the extensive drinks list. At Gimlet , the surroundings are utterly romantic, the service impeccable and the food outstanding. Expect sustainably sourced meats, seafood and produce finished with European flavours and technique.

Apollo Inn – the sister venue to Gimlet and Supernormal – does punchy snacks, share plates and incredible drinks. Try the signature Picon Biere, a refined take on a shandy.

Dukes Coffee Roasters at Ross House is a great place to start your day, serving up organic and sustainable brews made with precision.

While you’re in the city, take a wander down Hosier and AC/DC Lanes. Beyond the famed street art along both, you’ll find a cluster of must-try eateries and bars, including MoVida, Pastuso, Bar Bambi and Tres a Cinco.

Things to do

1. Take a run through Melbourne’s green spaces

a bridge across yarra river
Run or walk along the Yarra River. (Credit: Visit Vic)

Melbourne’s outdoors look their very best in spring and summer. The parks and gardens come alive with colourful blooms, the trees in and around the CBD regain their verdant canopy, and the Yarra River sparkles in the sun.

A run or walk in nearby green spaces, like Carlton Gardens, Fitzroy Gardens and the Royal Botanic Gardens, lets you soak up the scenery. The Westin Melbourne also provides curated running routes through surrounding gardens and along the Yarra. Workout gear and Bala weights can be borrowed from the hotel if you forget to pack your own.

2. Browse the boutique galleries

two women looking at an exhibition in the national gallery of victoria
See the collections of NGV. (Credit: Visit Vic)

Independent art galleries are practically synonymous with Melbourne, and many of them are conveniently situated in the city centre. You can easily hop between Flinders Lane Gallery , Arc One Gallery , Outre Gallery , Caves Gallery , Gallery Funaki and D’Lan Contemporary , allowing you to experience the city’s vibrant art scene in a single day.

If you’ve got an afternoon to spare, venture over the Yarra to the National Gallery of Victoria . The iconic and historic institution houses both a vast permanent collection and an exciting roster of rotating exhibitions.

3. Catch some live music

live music at the cherry bar in melbourne
Dive into Melbourne’s live music scene. (Credit: Visit Vic)

Melbourne’s live music scene reignites when spring hits. In and around the CBD are several beloved live music venues that showcase everything from jazz to rock to electronic.

Visit intimate venues like Bird’s Basement , Wax Music Lounge and Cherry Bar , or larger ones, such as The Toff , Forum and Palais Theatre , for major acts. Plenty of bars, restaurants and clubs host regular gigs, too, including The Westin Melbourne’s Lobby Lounge. Every Saturday from 12-3pm, enjoy live strings alongside your lunch or afternoon tea.

4. Soak up the atmosphere at the MCG

three punters in big hats at the melbourne cricket ground
Book tickets for a big sports bash. (Credit: Visit Vic)

The Melbourne Cricket Ground welcomes its namesake sport in the warmer months. Watch One-Day Internationals, T20 Internationals, Big Bash League and Sheffield Shield matches throughout the season, or settle in for the multi-day Boxing Day Test.

Spring and summer are also when the MCG holds big events and concerts. Surrounded by the roar and energy of the venue’s legendary crowds, there are few places better than this to see a live gig.

5. Experience the magic of the Regent Theatre

the inside steps of melbourne's regent theatre
Soak in Regent Theatre’s architecture. (Credit: Visit Vic)

Standing proud for nearly 100 years, the Regent Theatre is a stunning venue: its grand exterior opens to a gorgeously ornate interior decked out with chandeliers, plush drapes and gilded details.

Stopping by to take in its architecture is memorable enough. But if you’ve got the time, book a ticket to one of the spectacular shows that take place inside. The venue hosts a diverse line-up of live music, musicals, opera, dance, theatre and comedy. In spring and summer, the program is at its most energetic, with events to suit all tastes.

Whatever draws you to Melbourne, The Westin Melbourne is at the centre of it all. Start preparing for an adventure at marriott.com.