The Importance of First Impressions

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Chris Smith cops a family sized portion of poor service in the Hunter Valley, then checks out the Curse of the Carrington in the Blue Mountains.

A Crowne of thorns

I write with a frown. Why is it that so many prominent Australian holiday resorts fail to master the art of the first impression? And why is it that this initial abrupt contact is often indicative of the service to come? Maybe they’re just trying to be consistent. Prime example No.1: Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley. You’d think that, given how grown up this NSW wine and food district has become – and given the pedigree of the Crowne group – they couldn’t go wrong.

 

How’s this for a travelogue of disappointment? As our two families approach Pokolbin, there’s no harm in checking that the rooms we’ve booked are ready to go. Well, no harm if you’re happy to speak with a grump. My wife was given the familiar “Of course madam, no need to check" treatment. But, of course, they’d ballsed up the bookings. Even at the front counter the greeting was cold, as the staff freaked out during a brief flurry of multiple check-ins.

 

What was that again about first impressions? Two families, eight mouths to feed and we needed a dishwasher. Not in this three-bedroom villa, thank you very much. And if you don’t do your own washing up, they slap you with a $25 fee. There’s nothing more exhilarating on a long weekend than having to wash the dishes three times a day. How therapeutic.

 

When the kids wanted to watch some of their DVDs, there was no player to be found. Oh, unless you paid $25 a night for one they had to deliver. A babysitter for two hours would be more cost-effective.

 

As we sat outside our abode, soaking in the serenity of the lake, how about we play one of our favourite CDs? Sorry, they don’t supply CD players either.
A drink perhaps? The ice bucket we ordered for the champers was so small we could only jam in four ice cubes. Let’s give them the benefit of the doubt; it is a wine region – maybe they were just encouraging faster drinking.

 

And finally there was the famous kids’ club, which is more like a property in itself, equipped with every available imaginable activity. A fabulous redemption for parents keen for a wine tour. “Be there at 9am, no later," we were told by the stern woman at the club, who must have attended the same customer service course as the others we ran into. I won’t go into the kids’ complaints about being yelled at.

 

The stern woman at the kids’ club must have attended the same customer service course as the others we ran into. I won’t go into the kids’ complaints about being yelled at.

 

Enough! We should have read the hint on approach. Not only does good and bad customer service start at the top, it also starts
at the front door. Lesson learned, frown lifted.

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AI Prompt

The Curse of the Carrington

The NSW Blue Mountains is as steeped in such fascinating history as it is physically majestic. And on the manmade front, there’s no more magical place, dripping with both these qualities, than the Carrington Hotel at Katoomba.

 

This once was Katoomba: part pub, part upmarket accommodation venue, home to western Sydney pioneers, and supplier of district power. After several famous fires over the past century, and numerous heritage refits, today the Carrington still oozes that Georgian charm. In the midst of winter, Santa’s sleigh bells echo across the valley as Christmas in July festivities carry on endlessly in the glorious dining room.

 

But this year, in one single month, drama engulfed the Carrington. Its resident ghosts were clearly restless. One would-be robber slipped on an icy verandah ledge as he tried to escape security, only to be fatally injured in the fall.

 

Days later those same ghosts, renowned firebugs, decided to haunt the old girl yet again. This time, with the help of a passionate Asian couple, the tea candles conspired. Windowsills are never a clever place to plant a candle, especially when long antique drapes hang from the rod above. In no time, their cosy romantic night in turned into a smoky, burning disaster. In sub-zero temperatures, fire officers forced everyone out, whether they had pyjamas on or not!

 

The fire was extinguished before it spread to any other room, but camping out in the car park at the Carrington was not what these guests had in mind. Nevertheless, make the trip, experience the charm – but beware those wintry ghosts, who have a very twisted sense of humour indeed.

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Heathcote has evolved into the ultimate eco-escape for foodies

    Margaret Barca Margaret Barca
    From cabins to canvas, craft distillers to destination dining, Heathcote locals reveal their eco-savvy passions in ways that resonate with those seeking to travel lightly. 

    Heathcote, on traditional Taungurung Country in Central Victoria, is synonymous with its garnet-hued shiraz, but wine isn’t the only string to its bow. The town itself is sprinkled with heritage buildings from the gold rush era, and beyond that a growing collection of sustainable gastronomy and eco-friendly escapes. Nearby Bendigo, one of only 65 cities in the world recognised as a UNESCO Creative City and Region of Gastronomy, plates up an astonishing calibre of produce, wine and food for its size. Increasingly the entire region is taking up the challenge, though Heathcote in particular shines with its focus on sustainability. 

    Pink Cliffs GeologicalReserve
    The dramatic landscape of Heathcote’s Pink Cliffs Geological Reserve. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Goodfrey)

    The eco-stays bringing sustainability to Heathcote 

    Yellow BoxWood’s safari-style tents
    Yellow Box Wood’s safari-style tents are nestled on 40 hectares of bushland. (Image: Emily Goodfrey)

    Andee and Lisa Davidson spent years working in southern Africa before settling in Heathcote. “We had a vision of how this could be,” explains Andee. “We wanted a retreat, but one that was off-grid and environmentally sustainable.” Now, at Yellow Box Wood, two luxury safari-style tents are at the heart of 40 hectares of rolling hills and native bush, with kangaroos, wallabies, echidnas, goanna and birdlife aplenty. It’s all solar-powered, wood for the fire is mainly fallen timber, and water is collected on the carport roof.  No lack of creature comforts though – en suite with rain shower, espresso coffee maker, comfy seating, wood-burning fire all set to go. There’s also a solar-heated, mineral salt pool in a bush setting, walking tracks, and even a mini bush golf course.  On my visit, I put the vision to the test. Cocooned in the plush four-poster bed I can glimpse the stars, while the heater casts a golden glow on the canvas. In the morning, I wake to a blush-pink sunrise, kangaroos feeding and a soundtrack of magpies.

    Mt Ida Eco Cabin
    Mt Ida Eco Cabin is rustic and simple but oozes comfort. (Image: Graham Hosking)

    If a tent is not your style, Stephen and Cally Trompp’s carbon-neutral Mt Ida Eco Cabin might entice with its generous deck and farmland views.   Inside the cabin, corrugated iron walls as rusty as a shearing shed, gleaming (recycled) floorboards, timber truss ceiling (crafted by Stephen), wood-fired heater and an old-school turntable with a pile of vinyls to spin. It’s fun, and a little boho. “Everything is recycled. The cabin takes maximum advantage of the sun in winter. It’s all solar-powered. Don’t panic, though,” says Stephen, “you can still charge your phone and get 4G reception!” Settle into an Adirondack chair on the deck or pedal off on a mountain bike to suss out the wineries.  

    A taste of Spain in Central Victoria 

    Three Dams Estate
    Three Dams Estate make Spanish-style wine.

    Another person with a vision is Evan Pritchard at his Three Dams Estate where the wines reflect his deep love of Spain and of Spanish-style grapes, such as tempranillo. Afternoons in the ‘wine shed’ or cantina are matched with music (flamenco is a favourite), Spanish bites from tapas to paella (with Evan on the pans!) and views to Mount Alexander. Sustainability is also a passion. “You don’t need to buy anything. We decided to be off-grid from the start, but it is a lifestyle change,” he says. “You need to think about it and be careful.” Everything here is recycled, reassembled, refurbished. Evan has an electric car (with solar-powered charger), solar-power for the winery, and even a jaunty little electric tractor/forklift. “I love the idea of all the things you can do using the sun.” Sipping a crisp rosado (a Spanish rosé) with Evan in the sunshine, I couldn’t agree more. 

    The vineyard redefining sustainable winemaking 

    Silver Spoon winery
    The Silverspoon Estate winery is completely off-grid. (Image: Graham Hosking)

    On the other side of Heathcote, Silver Spoon Estate demonstrates sustainability on a more extensive scale. Tracie and Peter Young’s winery, cellar door, award-winning restaurant and their own house are all solar-powered and off the grid. Sustainability is intrinsic to everything they do.  The property sprawls across 100 hectares, with 20 hectares under vine – shiraz, viognier, grenache, tempranillo. As the climate has changed, so too has the approach. These are dry-grown vineyards. “We prune for drought. That means lower yields but more intense flavours,” says Peter.  The fine-dining restaurant offers sweeping views, a wood-burning fire and a deck for languid lunches. Head chef Ben Hong sources regional, sustainable ingredients and weaves estate wines into the menu – think crispy wild mushroom arancini, viognier-infused chicken breast.   

    Silver Spoon’s award-winning restaurant
    Silver Spoon’s award-winning restaurant.

    Heathcote’s other hidden gems 

    Heathcote Wine Hub
    Heathcote Wine Hub is housed in a 1855-built timber church.

    Not all local wineries have a cellar door, but I find local treasures at the Heathcote Wine Hub, a petite 1855 timber church in the main street, lovingly returned to life by Karen Robertson and Carey Moncrieff.  “Carey is a scrounger,” says Karen. “He doesn’t throw a single thing away.” He does, however, craft things into something quite special. Heritage floors, light-filtering lancet windows and shelves of regional wines create the perfect ambience for wine tasting. Or order a glass and linger over a cheese platter.  

    Heathcote is not all wine, of course. Nathan Wheat and partner Vanessa Curtis run Envy Distilling with a committed sustainable ethic – and a serious love of gin. Their small-batch distillery produces grape-based gin, and soon brandy. Distilled water is reused in an ingenious cooling system. All waste is treated on site. They buy excess wine from winemakers to distil and buy recycled barrels. “Distilling with the sun,” as Nathan says. Each Envy gin has its own story. Spicy, award-winning The Dry, is designed to capture the region’s dry, rugged nature. Pull up a stool at the bar (reclaimed timbers and tiles, of course), order a Gin Flight, or kick back with a cocktail and let Nathan share his eco journey.   

    Envy gins
    Sample gins at small-batch distillery Envy.

    A traveller’s checklist 

    Getting there

    It’s less than two hours’ drive from Melbourne. The scenic route we take goes past Sunbury, then along a splendid country road through Romsey and the magic, boulder-strewn landscape of Lancefield. Watch for kangaroos on the road! 

    Staying there

    Go off-grid in style at Yellow Box Wood for glamping or try Mt Ida Eco Cabin for a couple’s weekend hideaway. 

    Eating there

    French dishes at Chauncy
    Award-winning French restaurant Chauncy.

    At award-winning Chauncy, French chef Louis Naepels and sommelier wife Tess Murray have created a tiny, elegant pocket of rural France. Meticulously restored 1850s sandstone building, sun-drenched dining room, impeccable service, a menu suffused with local flavours and thoughtful wine pairings.  

    Fodder is both cafe and social hub. Chef Mo Pun and sister Lalita serve classic Aussie breakfast-to-lunch fare, though their Nepalese heritage sneaks through. 

    Playing there

    Sanguine Estate
    Sip on wines among the vines at Sanguine Estate. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Godfrey)

    Sanguine Estate’s cellar door and terrace overlook bucolic vineyards. Its award-winning, dry-grown wines include the distinctive D’Orsa Blanc dessert wine, reflecting the family’s Swiss-Italian heritage. Order a charcuterie board and stay a while. Keep it carbon neutral by cycling some (or all) of the 50-kilometre O’Keefe Rail Trail to Bendigo.  

    At Bridgeward Grove, learn about the property’s Old Mission Grove heritage olive trees, do a sommelier olive oil tasting, and stock up on sustainably grown olives and oil. Explore the unique landscape, wildflowers and wildlife of pink cliffs geological reserve.