Australia’s top 10 culinary journeys

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Our Top 10 Delicious Culinary Journeys are forks down the hottest (and tastiest) foodie experiences in Australian this year, complied from our 100 Incredible Experiences (right here in your backyard) special issue.

Buy the issue  now to savour the 100 best travel experiences of 2016. 

Australia is one massive, scrumptious food bowl. From the abundant seafood across the length of the south coast, to fine dining in some of the best restaurants in the world, to the tropical offerings of markets in north Queensland, travelling Australia is a culinary tour of the best its many cultures and regions has to offer, compiled by Adam Liaw.

 

Words: Adam Liaw is food columnist for The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age, Sunday Life and The Guardian, and the author of four cookbooks. On television, Adam hosts the prime-time SBS food and travel program, Destination Flavour, and was the winner of the 2010 season of MasterChef Australia.

1. The roaming restaurant pop-up dining – various locations, WA

Paul Iskov has worked in some of Europe’s best restaurants and having Returned to his native WA, he and his friends set up roaming restaurant Fervor . using Native ingredients cooked over open fires in the WA outback and towns and presented in the finest fashion, this is a dining with a difference.

 

Why you should try it: It’s soul surfing but with food, and it might be the most ‘Australian’ dining experience you’ll ever have. 

2. Doing the Barossa properly – Barossa Valley, SA

Everyone knows that a tasting tour of the Barossa Valley is an incredible wine experience, but if you forget the food you’re only getting half the story. Take a lazy lunch with local wine at 1918, a wood-fired bee sting cake from Apex Bakery and a truly local dinner at Appellation, and you won’t just have tasted the Barossa, you’ll have experienced it.

 

Why you should try it: The Barossa is a rite of passage for every Aussie.

3. Dining, Bondi-style – Bondi Beach

The restaurants at the two ends of Bondi Beach could be a metaphor for the two sides of Bondi culture. On the southern side, Icebergs is exquisitely cool, its polished glamour overlooking the famous Bondi Baths where the bronzed and beautiful can be found at any time of the day. On the northern side is Sean’s Panorama , casual and convivial with a European warmth to it. Locals stroll down for dinner with a bottle of wine under their arm and unwind at the tables perched on the footpath looking out to the horizon. The laughter and buzz of conversation echoes all the way to the beach.

 

Why you should try it: It’s a menu-less celebration of not just ingredients or cooking, but of the culture of dining itself. 

4. King George whiting and chips – Port Lincoln, SA

The pristine waters around South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula host the best seafood in the world. While much of it finds its way onto boats en route to Tokyo’s best sushi restaurants, there’s nothing like a local favourite fresh out of the water. While the Eastern states sing the praises of flathead for their fish and chips, in SA whiting is the king in both reputation and name. Catch it yourself if you can, but if you can’t just grab a King George whiting and chips from The Fresh Fish Place (and maybe a dozen Coffin Bay oysters while you’re at it) and head down to the foreshore.

 

Why you should try it: Because fish and chips in Australia isn’t the same if you don’t share it with the seagulls. See portlincolnseafood.com.au

5. Coffee on Centre Place – Melbourne

Melbourne is stunningly beautiful, and Centre Place might be the most photographed spot in the whole city. Grab a coffee at Vicolino and soak up the unique atmosphere here; coffee-culture at its best.

 

Why you should try it: It’s the quintessential Melbourne laneway, the one that people make a bee-line for when they’re after a coffee in the city.

6. A World-beating affogato gelato – Cow & The Moon, Enmore, Sydney

Lining up for after-dinner ice-cream has become a fixture of Sydney culture in recent years, and Cow & The Moon has some of the longest lines in the city. Deservedly so, as its famous affogato gelato is a world-beater, winning the World Gelato Tour in Rimini, Italy in 2014.

 

Why you should try it: It beat the Italians, enough said.

7. Fruit picking Rusty’s Markets – Cairns

Tropical North Queensland moves at a pace of its own, whether it’s local families knocking green mangoes out of the trees that line the streets, or enjoying a slow bucket of prawns and a few cold beers watching the sun set at Palm Beach. Rusty’s Markets is a Cairns institution and it’s one of the most eclectic markets around. The tropical fruits are as good as you’ll find anywhere in the world, from carambola and jackfruit to mangoes of every variety, but what I love are the homemade local products. They’re a multicultural mix from around Australia and Asia that you won’t find anywhere else.

 

Why you should try it: Pickled mangoes, homemade Thai-style sai krok fermented sausage, native fruit jams – there’s always something to surprise you. 

8. Grab an oyster from the sea – Freycinet Marine Farm, Tasmania

There’s truly no better way to eat an oyster than pulling it straight out of the water, shucking it, and tipping it straight into your mouth. And the best place in the world to do that is at the oyster shucking table at Tasmania’s Freycinet Marine Farm . Stand waist-deep in the water and just grab an oyster out of sea water as the fish swim around your legs.

 

Why you should try it: The only drawback is that it’ll spoil you for all other oysters for the rest of your life.

9. A sunset beach feast – Mindil Beach Sunset Market

Some compare the Mindil Beach Sunset Market to a South-east Asian hawker centre but it’s really so much more a temple to Darwin’s multiculturalism. Stroll from stall to stall as the sun sets into the ocean and try everything from hickory-smoked local mackerel and barbecued octopus to Thai laksa or nasi campur from Borneo. Go on an empty stomach and, if you can, make it for the last market of the year to enjoy live music and fireworks bursting over the horizon.

 

Why you should try it: You can’t beat the atmosphere. 

10. Going native – Attica, Melbourne

Ben Shewry is one of the world’s most innovative chefs. He was pushing native Australian ingredients to the limits of fine dining long before Noma rolled into Barangaroo.

 

Why you should try it: The degustation at Attica isn’t just delicious – it’s thoughtful, nostalgic and beautiful; a meal you won’t forget. 

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What it’s really like to stay on the world’s largest sand island

Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort  with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

Exploring K’gari

ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island
Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island
Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise . Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

Unwind at sunset

two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort
Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

The Sunset Bar , located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

Indulge and disconnect

woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa
Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

Getting there

kingfisher bay resort 4wd tour driving passed ss maheno on k'gari island
The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.