What being Australian means to me: an elder's perspective

Willie Gordon, Nugal-warra elder and Cape York story-keeper, shares ideas for a hope-filled Australia Day with Jennifer Pinkerton

If you were born in this country then I classify you as an Australian. And one of the beautiful things about Australia is that we have all these different cultural values in our mix, values we can learn from. Sometimes these cultural boundaries impose comfort zones on us; we’re afraid to move out of our comfort zone because we think other cultures might pose a threat.

When we travel, we extend our comfort zone and challenge our preconceptions. Before I went overseas – and I’m embarrassed to admit this – I thought that everyone in England was white! But I saw that they came from all over. I was 40 years old; I felt so stupid. I was amazed at my misunderstanding. I had to travel that far to realise that multiculturalism is everywhere.

I was also surprised that, when in Hong Kong, I couldn’t see the sun because of smog. It was foggy every day. I couldn’t believe that it didn’t go away. I couldn’t fathom it. I found myself thinking: “At home, we have nice air, we have rain, we have sun and we can see the stars."

In Australia, we’re pretty lucky. In fact, I am looking at the stars right now! Travel helps free up our ideas, and see the things we take for granted. It challenges fixed views and makes us realise what we have.

Sometimes we wait for a disaster to happen in order for us to be united, you know, like a fire or flood. Why don’t we be united anyway – before disasters hit? The only fence that we build is the one that exists in our own minds. And we’re the only ones who can pull it down. I want my grandchildren to say, “Well OK, there is no barrier". And we should teach them that there isn’t a barrier. There is no ‘black’ and ‘white’. We’re just people. We’re Australian people. We are on the same boat.

If we keep going back to history trying to fix it, then we won’t be moving forward as a united people. We need to draw on our strengths to do this. The past is what we learn from, but education helps us move confidently into the future. And by education, I mean gaining knowledge and understanding. Reconciliation is about accepting people. It starts with you. Not with the government.

Each ANZAC Day I salute the people who have died for our country. I don’t think any of my people, the Guugu Yimithirr, went and laid down their lives, but I try and go and appreciate the people who did. For Australia Day, I believe we should broaden things out and salute the people who have worked hard to build our country. I think it should be a remembrance day for the hard yakka we’ve been through, you know? My father, for example, cut sugar cane in the burning sun. Cutting cane was really hard work. His sweat, and that of many others, forms part of the patchwork that makes our country what it is.

What does it mean to be a good Australian? First of all you need to find out who you are. We tell our children about other people, so they’re busy looking over there and not looking at themselves. We lose sight of ourselves.

In today’s society, we drive cars, live in houses, have vaccines against illnesses, watch television, and all these need dollars. But we still need our spirituality and cultural values to make us strong – that’s the thing that’s going to get you through. Then the practical will follow. That’s what I believe. And you don’t need to be religious for that. It’s about saying, “I want to strive to do good". And when you’re strong, you encourage other people to think about who they are and what they need to do to strengthen their own spirits. You have to want it. Once you’re strong, then you can share it.

A general practical thing you can do is make sure your little patch of land is OK. And one of the simple things I think should happen is that every Australian plants a tree on Australia Day – it could just be in your garden; a fruit tree. We’d have 25 million more trees! Something simple like that doesn’t need any political argument or debate.

Another thing: be part of your community. Get involved. Some people wander off on their own… We see ourselves as individuals. But we’re all connected in one way or another. It’s time to stop this black and white thing, and just get on with looking after our garden. We have to make sure our country and environment are protected, because it’s the only garden we have. And we’re fortunate.

Australia has a pretty good garden. It’s our birth place and with the right care it can give us strength – the strength we need to journey through life, and to survive for many more thousands of years.

The Great Ocean Road has captured the hearts of Australians with its astounding scenery since 1932, but going off-course can enrich your experience with untouched nature, foodie delights and charming towns.

It’s a chilly 16 degrees. My husband pulls on a steamer and jogs – as all seasoned surfers do – into the water. We’re at Bells Beach , the legendary break on Victoria’s Surf Coast that’s home to the Rip Curl Pro, the world’s longest-running event in competitive surfing. Each year, over the Easter long weekend, up to 40,000 people descend on the region for the event. Today, though, we have the beach almost to ourselves, and the less-than-favourable temperature doesn’t deter my husband from surfing this famous break.

Torquay to Anglesea and Aireys Inlet

The red dome of Split Point Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The nearby surf town of Torquay marks the starting point for the Great Ocean Road . Unfolding our map, which we have marked out with a highlighted route for our children to follow, we set off for lesser-known Anglesea, a chilled-out town 20 minutes south of here. Its wide, sandy beach is a gentler swimming option for our young family. Groms can learn to surf here with Go Ride a Wave, which also runs stand-up paddle boarding on the Anglesea River.

Split point lookout — The lighthouse overlooks the Shipwreck Coast. (Image: Tourism Australia)

After a couple of nights in Anglesea, we hit the road again, first stopping at Aireys Inlet. Here we stretch our legs at Split Point Lighthouse, which was made famous by the 1990s television series Round the Twist, before driving under the Memorial Arch that welcomes us, officially, to the Great Ocean Road.

This 243-kilometre coastal road was built by returned First World War servicemen and serves as a permanent memorial to those who fought and died during the war. Carved into rock using hand tools and horse-drawn carts, it was a huge engineering feat and provided much-needed access to isolated coastal communities.

Lorne to Birregurra

Lorne is a delightful beachside stop for lunch and browsing boutique stores. It’s also the gateway to Great Otway National Park , which comprises a varied landscape of old-growth forests, cool-temperate rainforests, heathy woodlands and rugged coast. With the highest rainfall in Victoria, the region is home to many waterfalls – 10 of which are within 10 kilometres of Lorne.

Turning slightly off the main drag, we wind along a gum-shaded road to Erskine Falls. Here, our son leads the way through the hyper-green rainforest and down 200-plus stairs to the cascade that drops 30 metres into a lush fern gully. We hop over large boulders to get closer to the falls, enjoying the entire place to ourselves; it’s worth the return climb.

From Sheoak Falls Picnic Area, there are walking trails to Henderson Falls, Phantom Falls, Won Wondah Falls and Kalimna Falls, some of which follow an old timber tramway from forest-logging days, which only came to an end in 2008.

You can follow your appetite north to the town of Birregurra, which is part of the Otway Harvest Trail that connects farm gates, markets, wineries, breweries and distilleries. It’s home to three-hatted modern Australian restaurant Brae , helmed by celebrated chef Dan Hunter, set among native gardens and an organic farm, and Otways Distillery, which produces small-batch spirits using local produce and botanicals.

Brae restaurant — Brae is a three-hatted restaurant in Birregurra. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Apollo Bay to The Otways

Back on track, the cliff-hugging stretch between Lorne and Apollo Bay is breathtaking. At Teddys Lookout, we overlook the winding road ahead and St George River spilling into the ocean. We spend languid days in Apollo Bay, a buzzy seaside town that boasts a three-kilometre-long, crescent-shaped beach with a backdrop of rolling green hills. One evening, as the sun sets, we take the steep 10-minute walk to Marriners Lookout, which affords panoramic views of the ocean, hinterland and town.

A 15-minute drive along the road, Maits Rest is a lush rainforest gully that has been protected since the early 20th century. Wandering along the 800-metre boardwalk, we inspect the delicate moss-covered forest floor and the gnarled roots of 300-year-old myrtle beech trees, then crane our necks to see their canopies, some 50 metres above us. It’s therapy in nature.

Cape Otway to the Twelve Apostles

The southernmost tip of Cape Otway is a delightful detour, home to the 1848-built Cape Otway Lightstation, the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. We climb the narrow winding staircase to the gallery deck, explore the keepers’ quarters and telegraph station, and enjoy a coffee and some ‘famous’ scones at the charming onsite cafe.

It’s a pinch-me moment to finally see the Twelve Apostles in person. This unmistakable cluster of limestone stacks rising abruptly from the sea were never 12, however. When coined this in the 1890s as a marketing ploy, there were only nine; today, only seven remain after two collapsed in 2005 and 2009. We admire these Aussie icons from the viewing platform, in awe of Mother Nature’s ever-evolving artwork.

The Grotto is another natural attraction within Port Campbell National Park. (Image: Carmen Zammit)

Edging the wild Southern Ocean, this part of the coast – dubbed Shipwreck Coast – is made up of many sea-carved natural wonders including London Bridge, The Grotto and Gibson Steps. After exploring the lookout trails of Loch Ard Gorge/Poombeeyt Kontapool – its English name taken from the site of the 1878 shipwreck – we nestle into the sandy beach encircled by towering sandstone cliffs, as our children splash about on the water’s edge, and soak it all in.

Port Campbell to Timboon

Timboon Fine Ice Cream is part of a regional foodie trail. (Image: C McConville)

Just north of Port Campbell National Park, the region of Timboon is part of the 12 Apostles Food Artisans Trail, filled with purveyors of delicious foodstuffs such as Timboon Fine Ice Cream , Timboon Railway Shed Distillery and Apostle Whey Cheese. As an antidote to the indulgence, the 20-kilometre Poorpa Yanyeen Meerreeng Trail is a self-guided ride or walk between Port Campbell and Timboon through tall forests, over historic bridges and past sparkling lakes and farmland with grazing cattle.

Warrnambool to Port Fairy

Warrnambool building — A 19th-century building in Warrnambool. (Image: Peter Foster)

In Warrnambool, a town rich in maritime history, we take the four-kilometre Thunder Point Walk that traces the coast. The kids squeal when an echidna shuffles out from beneath the wooden boardwalk, and we stop to admire a seal lazing on a rock at the port.

Further along, the streets of quaint fishing village Port Fairy are lined with 19th-century cottages, old stone churches and Norfolk pines. Follow the historic walking trail to see some of the 60-plus National Trust buildings. Port Fairy is also home to Port Fairy Folk Festival (6-9 March), one of the country’s longest-running music and cultural festivals. You could time your road trip with the event for a fittingly celebratory end to any journey.

The Great Ocean Road can easily be done in three days, but we’ve spent a week on the road. The highlighted line on our now creased and well-worn map doesn’t follow the famous route precisely. It has sprouted branches in many directions, leading us to untouched rainforest and charming rural towns filled with culinary delights, and where we experienced some of our most memorable moments on the Great Ocean Road.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

The Monty is a highly anticipated, newly refurbished motel with a chic Palm Springs-inspired aesthetic set across the road from the Anglesea River. Basalt Winery in Port Fairy grows cool-climate wines such as pinot noir and Riesling in rich volcanic soil. Stay among the vines in its tiny home, complete with a kitchen, lounge area and outdoor firepit.

The Oak & Anchor Hotel has been a Port Fairy institution since 1857. Cosy up by the bar in winter or bask in the sunshine of the Lawn Bar in summer. The rooms are beautifully boutique with considered details, such as luxe baths for sinking into post-road trip.

Eating there

The Coast in Anglesea is a modern Australian restaurant focused on local ingredients. Grand Pacific Hotel has been a local landmark in Lorne since 1879 and recently underwent a restoration. It serves a mix of traditional pub and Italian fare alongside ocean views.

Graze is a cosy 40-seat dining room in Apollo Bay with a modern Australian menu complemented by regional wines. Apollo Bay Distillery offers tasting flights, a gin blending masterclass and serves woodfired pizzas.

What being Australian means to me: an elder’s perspective

Willie Gordon, Nugal-warra elder and Cape York story-keeper, shares ideas for a hope-filled Australia Day with Jennifer Pinkerton

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