NSW to QLD Road Trip: 10 reasons to take the inland route

A road trip to Queensland is a New South Welshmen must-do. But for some, the well-beaten Pacific Highway is more of an over-do.

Here, we quit the coast and veer inland to uncover the New England Tablelands in northwest NSW, on route to the border. The difference in kilometres isn’t much more than the coastal alternative (about another 200 kilometres), but we suggest adding a few more days to the itinerary to really check out the scenery. Here are 10 reasons you didn’t know to take the inland route:

1. The landscape

The region covers thousands of square kilometres, meaning the towns are fairly spread out, but it’s a picturesque patch of the state that gives way to some beautiful country drives. The landscape is largely made of expansive plains, home to cotton crops (particularly around Narrabri), paddocks of grazing cattle and occasional olive groves and vineyards. But out of the flat erupts a dramatic mountain range (the western foothills of the Great Diving Range to be exact), which creates a stunning backdrop to the area. Towards Inverell and Bingara, the landscape changes again with increasingly hilly outlooks and winding roads. So as a word of warning, it can be difficult to keep your eyes on the road with these passing views– don’t say we didn’t warn you!

Cotton ready for picking at Newport Cotton Farm, Moree. — The inland route through New England gives way to some beautiful country drives. (Image: DNSW)

2. Artesian spas

Moree has been dubbed The Spa Capital of Australia, with its ancient, mineral-rich artesian waters. This naturally heated (usually 38-40 degrees) and filtered water is said to have many healing properties and is a major tourist attraction.

People enjoying a visit to the Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre in Moree — The Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre is one of the town’s main attractions. (Image: DNSW)

The best place to experience it is at the Moree Artesian Aquatics Centre (MAAC). It houses a range of public pools including two hot artesian pools – ideal for its hydrotherapy and aqua aerobics classes, as well as smaller splash areas and a waterslide for little ones.

Couple enjoying a relaxing visit to the Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre. — Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre houses a range of public pools including two hot artesian pools. (Image: DNSW)

3. Heritage guesthouses

While there are plenty of hotel, motel and camping options throughout the region, we suggest booking in at one of the area’s beautiful heritage guesthouses. Our picks: Craigdon Guesthouse and Blair Athol Estate. The former, perched on the foothills of Killarney Gap, overlooking the Namoi Valley, was built in 1905 and boasts sprawling verandas, high ceilings and cosy open fireplaces – reflective of the time. The seven thoughtfully-restored guest bedrooms come with king-sized beds and ensuites, while hearty dinners and fresh breakfasts are also provided.

The country town of Inverell in the New England region of NSW. — Find Blair Athol Estate on the outskirts of Inverell. (Image: DNSW)

Meanwhile, Blair Athol Estate can be found tucked away on the outskirts of Inverell. An imposing manor house which was built in 1904, it’s surrounded by large, manicured gardens, while inside is eight well-appointed bedrooms, from the Bridal Suite to the Maid’s Room. Again, guests can expect hearty country breakfasts and sumptuous dinners if requested. Both are ideal hideaways to snuggle up in.

4. Events

Tamworth’s Country Music Festival may be the region’s flagship event, but there are more and more get-togethers filling New England’s annual calendar, meaning more and more reasons to visit.

Tamworth Country Music Festival, Tamworth — Don’t miss the New England’s flagship event: The Tamworth Country Music Festival. (Image: Tamworth Country Music Festival)

Among them are Nosh Narrabri and Moree on a Plate – both showcasing local produce, and the Australian Celtic Festival (Glen Innes), celebrating the district’s Celtic ties.

Child enjoying the 2019 Moree on a Plate Festival. — The whole family will enjoy the Moree on a Plate festival. (Image: DNSW)

5. Local produce

This brings me to my next point – the local produce itself. The fertile black soil found throughout much of the area (especially in the Gwydir Valley) is gold for agriculture; producing wheat, cereal and beef cattle. But there are also some unexpected gourmet gems to stop in at along the way. Among them is Olives of Beaulieu outside of Inverell; a small family-run business that produces olives, olive oil, dukkah and harissa, while Stahmann Trawalla Pecan Nut Farm in Moree produces 95 percent of Australia’s pecan crop and is the largest orchard in the southern hemisphere. There are some great little wineries too, including Boorolong Road Estate in Armidale.

Aerial overlooking trees at the Stahmann Webster Pecan Nut Farm, Moree — Stahmann Webster Pecan Nut Farm supplies 95 percent of Australia’s pecan crop. (Image: DNSW)

6. Fossick for sapphires

Inverell is a renowned sapphire-mining area, and you can fossick for your own gem at a number of local locations. Billabong Blue Fossicking Park on Swan Brook Creek is a great spot for any inexperienced fossicker, as everything is provided along with full tuition. It’s a similar deal at 7 Oaks Fossicking Property – 20 kilometres from town. Otherwise, check out the Billabong Blue Sapphires office next to the visitor information centre. Here you can not only purchase your own local sapphire, but watch them being cut, polished and ask any questions.

7. The Roxy Theatre

Bringing back a slice of 1950s charm to Bingara is the Roxy Theatre and Café. Originally built in 1936 by three local Greek men, it operated as a cinema until 1958, after which it was closed and lay dormant and untouched for 40 years. In 2004 the beautiful art-deco theatre was returned to its former glory and re-opened to the public as a cinema and theatre house. More recently, the property’s adjoining Greek cafe was fully restored now also includes the ‘Museum of Greek settlement in Country Australia’. History buffs, film fiends and art-deco lovers ought to swing by.

8. Growing art scene

There’s quite the artistic hub here, with many little pockets to see the handiwork of local artists. Among them is Pilliga Pottery, which not only stocks a litany of beautiful, hand-made terracotta pieces, but also runs pottery classes, as well as the quirky Ceramic Break Sculpture Park, with bronze sculptures, indoor galleries and, er, resident ostriches. Inverell Art Gallery is also worth a visit, featuring regular exhibitions by both local and visiting artists as well as one of the longest continuing mosaics in Australia.

Couple browsing through art at Bank Art Museum Moree — A couple browsing through art at Bank Art Museum Moree. (Image: DNSW)

The Bank Art Museum Moree (or BAMM) is housed within a striking 1911 Federation era bank building in the centre of town and is one of a burgeoning number of regional art galleries showcasing an impressive schedule of changing exhibitions and community art classes.

Facade of the Bank Art Museum Moree — The striking façade of the Bank Art Museum Moree. (Image: DNSW)

9. Koala capital

While Moree boasts the ‘Spa Capital’ title, Gunnedah is the ‘Koala Capital of the World’. With one of the largest and healthiest koala populations west of the Great Divide, you can expect to see them regularly sleeping in the local eucalypts, or even sauntering across the main road.

10. Sawn Rocks

There are many beautiful national parks throughout the New England North West region, each with plenty of camping areas, hikes and scenic spots to explore. Among the must-sees however is Sawn Rocks in Mount Kaputar National Park, near Narrabri. Resembling an almighty wall of organ pipes, Sawn Rocks is in fact a wall of pentagonal basalt pipes, evidencing the area’s volcanic past. This unusual phenomenon is said to have been caused by the cooling of molten rock, allowing individual crystals within the rock to align perfectly with each other. Yarrie Lake, also near Narrabri also has an interesting history. Perfectly circular, this dish-shaped body of water is believed to have been formed by a meteor falling to earth millions of years ago. Today, it’s a popular place for bird-watchers, swimmers, campers and picnickers.

In NSW’s New England High Country, Tenterfield flies quietly under the radar, offering travellers plenty to eat, drink, see and do without losing its country charm.

You’ll likely see a tractor driven down the main street in Tenterfield. And a restaurant as swanky as anything you’ve seen in Orange or Mudgee: two of regional NSW’s hippest foodie towns. But should you consider Tenterfield the new Orange, or the new Mudgee – and I’ve been putting it out there to residents – locals will rebuke, and tell you, “No… it’s the old Tenterfield”. And therein lies the duality of this town: is this an overlooked soon-to-be hotspot? Or a classic Aussie country town?

the Tenterfield Post Office — Heritage-listed Tenterfield Post Office. (Image: Bauer Media/Destination NSW)

It’s worth noting that from Sydney, Tenterfield isn’t a breezy 3.5-hour drive away – instead the New England High Country town near the Queensland border is an eight-hour drive or 2.5 hours from the nearest major airport, Ballina Byron Gateway (reached mostly via a winding, undulating two-lane road). As such, you won’t find the usual influx of Sydneysiders here like you would in the aforementioned regional NSW hubs. Instead, it’s Brisbane folk who make the 3.5-hour drive south for a weekend escape from Queensland’s humidity. Sitting 850 metres above sea level, Tenterfield often calls for a fire at night, even in summer, and in winter, it’s not unheard of for snow to fall.

the entrance of Tenterfield Saddler — Tenterfield Saddler was made famous by Peter Allen’s song. (Image: Destination NSW/Nathan Jacobs)

I arrive away from the weekend and it’s as quiet as any regional Australian town. Just a whole lot prettier. Its streets are lined with heritage-listed buildings. History oozes out of them: like Tenterfield Saddler (1868) on High Street, which Peter Allen immortalised in song, and the theatre on Rouse Street where Henry Parkes called for Federation in 1889. Its pubs, such as Royal Tenterfield, which dates back to 1849, might have had a spit and polish, but there’s enough hardware stores and trucks loaded with cattle rattling down its main street to prove this is still a hard-working farming town.

The archway of evergreens lining every roadway here channel the English countryside. And there’s a gentleness about Tenterfield that seems a bit un-Australian. When I take a walk to town – for I’m staying close by in a luxury suite at Old Council Chambers originally built in 1884 – the sun on my face lacks the sting of coastal towns such as Byron Bay and Coffs Harbour downhill from here.

Tenterfield’s thriving dining scene

the Stonefruit exterior, Tenterfield — Stonefruit celebrates growers from the Granite Belt and New England regions.

On the main street, I backtrack as I walk past Stonefruit , distracted by its sleek, inner-Sydney-bar-like facade. Its thirtysomething owners Karlee McGee and Alistair Blackwell left Sydney’s Darlinghurst in 2022, attracted to Tenterfield by its small-town energy. Impressed by the remodelling of this century-old building, I stay for lunch in the courtyard out back, enveloped by old brick walls covered in grapevines and party lights.

the Stonefruit moody interior, Tenterfield — Stonefruit spills open onto the street. (Image: Destination NSW/Nathan Jacobs)

Stonefruit champions growers from the nearby Granite Belt (Stanthorpe is 50 kilometres north) and New England regions – last year, they won Good Food Guide’s Drinks List of the Year category. “We’re looking forward to more and more like-minded people settling in the area,” Blackwell tells me. “Though we’re not the same inner-city people we were even just a couple of years ago.”

wines on display at Stonefruit, Tenterfield — Its shelves are stocked with great wines.

A short drive south, in Deepwater, another thirtysomething former city slicker, who once ran bars, built a brewery in a town of 450 locals made from tin he salvaged from an old shearing shed. It has become a magnet for lovers of craft beer in a region known for its wineries. “More young people are moving here,” Deepwater Brewing founder Isaac Zietek tells me. “I got sick of city traffic; it’s no way to live your life. This area seemed a good place to come.”

dining at The Commercial Boutique Hotel, Tenterfield — The Commercial Boutique Hotel, a historic country pub in Tenterfield. (Image: Destination NSW/Nathan Jacobs)

That evening, at The Commercial Boutique Hotel , a restored 1940s Art Deco hotel on Tenterfield’s main street, I enjoy a main course of orange and clove sous vide duck breast crafted by head chef, Jagdeep Singh Saini. Originally from Punjab, India, Jagdeep fuses French classical cooking techniques with local ingredients and an Asian influence. I wasn’t expecting the best country pub meal I’ve ever had here on a sleepy Tuesday night: but that’s what I get.

At Little Nook & Co, locals drink Allpress coffee with doors open to the street and the big brekkie wraps could feed a family, New Zealand-born owner Kendyl Weir assures me Tenterfield may be evolving into something bigger, but at its heart it’s still a country town. “Everyone still says hello to each other here,” she says. “There’s tourism all round, but it still feels like a town for locals.”

Tenterfield’s other highlights

the Bald Rock NationalPark, Tenterfield — Bald Rock National Park is defined by its granite landscapes and diverse eucalyptus forests. (Image: Destination NSW/Daniel)

Its food and wine attractions, mind you, weren’t even what got travellers here originally. In the distance, beyond the town’s pretty Victorian-era buildings, granite mountains loom on the horizon. The stark contrast – English-like surroundings meet rugged Australian bushland – must have made early settlers cautiously melancholic.

Adventure types put Tenterfield on the map. Six national parks surround the town. I climb the largest exposed granite monolith in the southern hemisphere in Bald Rock National Park and look out across the Northern Tablelands. The area is rich in Indigenous heritage, as Bald Rock was neutral ground for the Jukembal, Bundjalung and Kamilaroi peoples.

a person standing between boulders in Tenterfield — The boulder-strewn landscape around Tenterfield, in NSW’s New England region. (Image: Destination NSW/Daniel Tran)

I also hike to where one-time resident Banjo Paterson proposed to his sweetheart overlooking a 210-metre waterfall in Boonoo Boonoo National Park. The 174 kilometres of world-class mountain-bike trails will also make Tenterfield one of Australia’s major MTB destinations when it opens in 2026. It is set to attract an extra 35,000 visitors to town per year.

a train passing by the Tenterfield Railway Station — Tenterfield Railway Station now serves as a museum. (Image: Destination NSW/Craig Parry)

There’s more: Tenterfield Railway Station Museum offers insights into life here 140 years ago, and Tenterfield Saddler lifts a lid on 19th century pastoralists. The whole town’s a living museum, with farm gates and wineries just a few minutes’ drive from the CBD. But what I like best of all is that Tenterfield’s not trying to be something it’s not. Is it the new Orange? No, more the old Tenterfield… just a bit different.

sunrise views at Tenterfield Creek — Scenic morning views across Tenterfield Creek. (Image: Destination NSW/Daniel Tran)

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

the Tenterfield welcome signage — The town is the gateway to Big Sky Country. (Image: Destination NSW/Daniel Tran)

Tenterfield is a 3.5-hour drive from Brisbane and the Gold Coast or eight-hour drive from Sydney. Or fly to Ballina Byron Gateway Airport and hire a car.

Staying there

Old Council Chambers offers two luxury accommodation options – a studio and one-bedroom apartment in a restored 1884 property.

Eating there

Ballina king prawns with chilli butter, whipped yoghurt and kaffir lime at Stonefruit, Tenterfield — The menu at Stonefruit is known for rustic dishes like Ballina king prawns served with chilli butter, whipped yoghurt and kaffir lime.

Stonefruit is open Sunday to Monday 10am to 3pm; and Thursday to Saturday 10am to late. Deepwater Brewing offers beer tastings and pizzas. The Commercial Boutique Hotel and the Royal Hotel serve dinner seven nights a week.

10 reasons to take the inland route through NSW to Qld New England