Take the high road between Sydney and Brisbane to discover gems of New England High Country.

As the sound of bagpipes fills the air, I take in the scene at the Australian Standing Stones in Glen Innes. When I was a child, this was just an empty space that we drove past on the way to the town lookout. Now travellers from around the world come to visit the granite stone circle throughout the year, with thousands gathering for the Australian Celtic Festival in April and May to see live bands, dancers, jousting, highland games and other Celtic fun.

After years of living in Sydney and London, I answered the call of the New England High Country, where I’ve found that while some things – such as gem and crystal hunting and sleeping under clear skies – remain the same, others, including places to eat, tipples to try and ways to stay, are better than ever.

1. Tamworth: music, stations and sunflowers

Australia’s country music capital, Tamworth, is just over an hour by air or a 400-kilometre drive from Sydney, making it the ideal spot to start exploring the region. Just outside town, Goonoo Goonoo Station is a working cattle farm with luxury accommodation, where I love to dine in the award-winning Glasshouse Restaurant before spending the night in the converted shearer’s quarters.

If you’re visiting in the summer months, you can pop across to the Liverpool Plains to join the Sunflower Trail. Call into a local visitor centre or check The Plains to find out more about open-gate locations and pick-your-own-sunflower events.

2. Armidale: spectacular waterfalls

If you love chasing waterfalls, Armidale is your gateway to some spectacular examples, including Wollomombi Falls, Dangars Falls and Ebor Falls. See them from viewing platforms or take to the sky on a Fleet Helicopters tour, where we spotted brumbies and eagles below us as we flew over gorge country.

3. Nundle: antiques and beer gardens

It may only have 300 residents, but the gold-rush village of  Nundle has character-filled shops, including the Odgers & McClelland Exchange Store and the historic Nundle Woollen Mill, where I’m always tempted to buy the vibrant yarns made on its antique spinning machines even though I can’t knit a thing. It’s also a great place to sip a Nundle Lager with a hearty pub lunch under fairy lights and vines in the Peel Inn beer garden.

4. Walcha: artisan events, sculptures and distilleries

Up in Walcha, the hand-carved verandah posts down the main street are just a hint of what’s to come around the corner, where a life-size whale sculpture breaches from the grass beside the Apsley River. The Whale by Alan Hubble is one of almost 60 artworks by local and international artists in Australia’s first permanent open-air gallery. Meanwhile, the unexpected moments continue in the nearby tiny village of Kentucky, where the steampunk speakeasy Dobson’s Distillery produces gin, whisky, vodka and liqueurs, including drops that have brought home Double Gold awards from the San Francisco World Spirits Competition.

Time your visit for March and you can meet the makers at one of my favourite New England events. Over two days, the Seasons of New England expo in Uralla brings together some of the region’s best producers, makers and creators. Can’t make it in March? Don’t worry, you can still visit the Seasons store next to McCrossin’s Mill Museum after learning about bushrangers, the gold-rush era and other local history.

5. Glen Innes: award-winning pies and gem fossicking

Pie lovers have an important stop to make in Glen Innes, where Sweetie Pie’s Bake Shop has taken out some of the top spots in the Great Aussie Pie Competition. Try your hand at fossicking for sapphires and other gemstones after getting tips on the best places to go from the Visitor Information Centre.

6. Deepwater: local art

In the village of Deepwater, be sure to stop at the Makers Shed to find local art, original designs by silversmith Richard Moon and books by New England writers including Michael Burge.

7. Tenterfield: wines and luxe stargazing suites

Then, when you reach Tenterfield, you can discover local wines over dinner at Stonefruit, which received a Chef’s Hat in the 2026 Good Food Guide, before sleeping in a bubble under the stars at Mirumiru Bubbletent or in luxury suites at the Old Council Chambers.

You should also be prepared to have Peter Allen’s Tenterfield Saddler pop into your head during your stay. That’s your sign to pay a visit to that very saddler. The National Trust-listed building is now home to Allen memorabilia, including a pair of his red dancing shoes among original leather tools. Trust the song, visit the saddlery and enjoy every minute of your high country stay.

Travel details

How to get there

Tamworth is about 400 kilometres from Sydney; Tenterfield is about 300 kilometres from Brisbane. Alternatively, fly to Tamworth or Armidale and hire a car.

Where to stay

Book the renovated homestead, cottages or shearer’s quarters in a heritage-listed 19th-century village at Goonoo Goonoo Station. Enjoy dark-sky stargazing from your bed in a bubble at Mirumiru Bubbletent. Have a suite stay in one of Tenterfield’s most historic buildings at the Old Council Chambers.