With its lush, green landscape folding into a quirky, historic townscape, there’s a certain magic to this hinterland hub that speaks to Imogen Eveson. And to you, voting it n0. 44 in your pick of Top 50 Aussie Towns.
For me, Bellingen might just be the perfect town. Perhaps that’s because I grew up in Glastonbury, New Age capital of England, so I feel right at home with Bello’s bohemian vibes.
On the Traditional Lands of the Gumbaynggir people, it lies on the wide and beautiful Bellinger River in verdant hinterland halfway between Sydney and Brisbane (and 30 minutes’ drive south-west of Coffs Harbour along the Waterfall Way).
Breathe in the majestic hinterland. (Image: Destination NSW)
The town prospered as a dairy farming community in the early 20th century – the rich soils of the surrounding valley plus ample sunshine and rainfall ensuring good pastureland – before an influx of people seeking an alternative lifestyle in the 1970s and ’80s weaved in DNA that changed its trajectory.
This hippie history is documented in a film, Bellingen – The Promised Land, that I watch one evening at the Art Deco Memorial Hall, and is evident today in eclectic shops like the Hemp Store and community-minded spaces like cafe, restaurant and live music venue 5 Church Street.
Bellingen is a place that will defy anyone not to contemplate a tree change when they visit, and this has been happening in earnest for the past couple of decades. Hippie has turned hipster and visitors today also have a range of boutique shops to browse and smart eateries to frequent.
Stroll the town’s heritage streetscape. (Image: Destination NSW)
Housed in a beautifully restored old timber church, Cedar Bar & Kitchen is the go-to spot for wine and nibbles or a refined share-plate meal on Fridays and Saturdays; sample craft beers and pizza in a converted factory at artisan brewery and boutique bar Bellingen Brewing Co. , and head to Tish Faco Cantina at happy hour for $6.50 tacos, schooners and frozen margaritas.
Stop for a craft beer and pizza at Bellingen Brewing Co. (Image: Destination NSW)
I spend a disproportionate amount of time sheltering from summer rain in Hyde Bellingen , drinking soy flat whites at its cafe and cultivating an interest in expensive flax linen sleepwear at its boutique.
But despite these trimmings, you can’t beat a classic country pub complete with generously proportioned bistro meals: in this, the 1901 Federal Hotel more than delivers.
The pull of Bellingen, of course, extends way beyond the heritage streetscape and busy roster of markets and festivals. It’s the landscape that inspires the creativity that drives the town and provides outdoor adventures aplenty: seek out swimming holes, kayak and canoe the river, and follow the Waterfall Way to the heritage-listed Dorrigo National Park.
Kayak the river with Bellingen Canoe Adventures. (Image: Destination NSW)
There’s an unknowable magic stitched into that confluence of rolling green and winding water. One that keeps pulling me, and many others, back.
Imogen Eveson is Australian Traveller’s Print Editor. She was named Editor of the Year at the 2024 Mumbrella Publish Awards and in 2023, was awarded the Cruise Line Industry Association (CLIA) Australia’s Media Award. Before joining Australian Traveller Media as sub-editor in 2017, Imogen wrote for publications including Broadsheet, Russh and SilverKris. She launched her career in London, where she graduated with a BA Hons degree in fashion communication from world-renowned arts and design college Central Saint Martins. She is the author/designer of The Wapping Project on Paper, published by Black Dog Publishing in 2014. Growing up in Glastonbury, home to the largest music and performing arts festival in the world, instilled in Imogen a passion for cultural cross-pollination that finds perfect expression today in shaping Australia’s leading travel titles. Imogen regularly appears as a guest on radio travel segments, including ABC National Nightlife, and is invited to attend global travel expos such as IMM, ILTM, Further East and We Are Africa.
Make this dazzling stretch of beaches and natural wonders your home base for a grand adventure
Whether you’re setting out solo, bringing a mate, or packing in the whole family, no road trip along Australia’s East Coast is complete without at least a few days spent exploring the Coffs Coast. A stunning stretch of NSW coastline nestled between ancient high-elevation rainforests and magnificent, undiscovered beaches, Coffs offers amazing biodiversity, stunning natural beauty, and heaps of local charm, without the crowds. Pull up in Coffs Harbour , your perfect home base for these unforgettable day-trips.
1. Southern Beaches
The Coffs region boasts 30 of Australia’s most beautiful, unspoiled beaches, directly abutting a dramatic tableau of mountains and rainforests. Drive South of Coffs Harbour to find up-and-coming surf destinations where it’s still possible to catch an empty wave. First up is the picturesque Sawtellvillage . Wander the famous fig-tree-lined main street packed with laid-back places to eat and drink. Enjoy panoramic views and seasonal whale sightings at Bonville Headland on the Southern end of the beach.
Nearby Bongil Bongil National Park boasts seven kilometres of empty beach, along with hiking and cycling trails through beachfront rainforests – keep an eye out for koalas living in the trees. Boambee Beach and Boambee Creek Reserve are great for families, with shallow waters perfect for kayaking and SUPing, plus an off-leash dog beach.
Experience small-town charm in Sawtell.
2. Orara Valley Tourist Trail
The Orara Valley Tourist Trail has it all: hinterland bushwalks, birdwatching, horse riding, pristine swimming holes and rolling green pastures dotted with dairy farms and historic villages. And it’s only 15 minutes west of Coffs Harbour.
Sample produce at a roadside stall, stop into Coramba Hotel for a quintessential country pub lunch, or try the Idle in Cafe in Nana Glen for coffee and scones. Then spend the afternoon kayaking the Orara River or mountain biking on Mt Coramba. If you’re feeling adventurous, follow the 4WD touring route along the Orara Escarpment in Bindarri National Park , a rugged landscape with dazzling views that winds through untouched eucalypt rainforests and waterfalls.
Explore the green heart of Coffs.
3. Dorrigo National Park
Enjoy a classic day trip from Coffs to forest bathe in some of the oldest subtropical rainforests in the world at Dorrigo National Park, part of the World Heritage-listed Gondwana Rainforests. These million-year-old ecosystems promise rare bird sightings, towering strangler figs, and epic walking tracks and picnic spots. Try the 6.6 km Wonga Walk to experience dreamy Crystal Shower Falls (where you can walk behind the falls) and the Skywalk Lookout, which offers spectacular views of the valley and coast. Then stop in Dorrigo town for a homey lunch. It’s worth noting that a section of the road between Ulong and Dorrigo – which dates to the 1880s – is unsealed, adding to the area’s end-of-the-earth allure but making travel difficult in adverse weather conditions. Alternatively, head to Dorrigo via the delightful township of Bellingen .
Wander the Skywalk.
4. Northern Beaches
For another tranquil expanse of sun, sand and surf breaks, head north to Woolgoolga (Tourism Australia’s Best Mainland Beach for 2025. Taste the coffee and local-produce breakfast at one of several cafes, then spot whales during their migration season along the Woolgoolga Whale Trail to the headland. Emerald Beach offers clear blue waters and another headland walk, perfect for taking in views of South Solitary Island, a dramatically rocky-cliffed island with a historic lighthouse. Red Rock, some 40km north of Coffs and named for its striking coastal rock formations, boasts a gorgeous estuary reserve that’s perfect for languorous days spent picnicking, swimming, fishing, and connecting with the relaxed local pace.
Enjoy fresh seafood overlooking Woolgoolga Beach.
5. Jetty precinct
You could easily spend a whole day exploring the Jetty precinct – from its foreshores to the marina to Muttonbird Island. Start with fresh fish and chips from local institution Coffs Harbour Fisherman’s Co-op , before browsing the popular Harbourside Markets held every Sunday on the foreshores.
Take a scenic walk along the breakwall to Muttonbird Island , a cultural and ecological treasure with panoramic views and rich Gumbaynggirr heritage. The Giidany Miirlarl Education Space shares the island’s ancient stories, or join a guided moonlight tour to see the seasonal return of the muttonbirds.
Back at the Jetty Strip, find a buzzing mix of cafes, bars and restaurants with cuisines from around the world, open from morning until late. Don’t miss The Jetty Pavilion , a favourite for its unique menu blending modern Australian cuisine with vibrant world flavours.
Walk the path where land meets sea and sky.
6. Grafton
Head inland from mid-October to early November to catch Grafton’s jacaranda season, when the town’s streets and parks are covered in purple. Even better, time your trip between 24 October and 2 November to attend the famous Jacaranda Festival, with special food items, performances and more. At any time of year, follow the self-guided Grafton Heritage Trail to discover the town’s historic buildings, landmarks and stories. Or get the blood pumping with a trip along the longest mapped white-water trail in Australia – the Clarence Canoe and Kayak Trail. Book a tour with Exodus Adventures .
Time your Grafton trip to see the jacarandas in full bloom. (Image: @myclarencevalley)
7. Nambucca
Just south of Coffs Harbour sits Nambucca, the ideal town for a relaxed, coastal day trip. Hire a canoe, kayak or boat to explore over 80 kilometres of waterways stretching from the hinterland to the ocean. For those who prefer to stay on dry land (or double up their adventure for the day), stretch your legs along the V-Wall – a scenic coastal walk along the Nambucca River – dotted with boulders painted by the community, sharing messages, art and local stories. Stop along the way to buy Sydney rock oysters direct from local farmers, or try your own hand at fishing. Before heading back to Coffs, refuel on fresh seafood and wood-fired pizzas at Matilda’s in Nambucca .
Explore Nambucca’s waterways. (Image: Seen Australia)
