Boasting breathtaking natural beauty, foodie farm-gates and rainforest adventures, the Port Macquarie backcountry is ready for discovery.
“Would you like Himalayan basil in your tea?" asks Dan Troyak, owner of Yulo Kopa, a retreat deep in the Port Macquarie hinterland on the NSW Mid North Coast. I’m sitting on the deck nibbling on ladoo, a traditional Indian sweet, while sipping chai. It’s part of the welcome gift – along with a packet of strawflower seeds, which I intend to plant when I get home.
Even though I’ve called Port Macquarie home for 10 years and thought I knew the hinterland, Yulo Kopa is an unexpected treat.
An idyllic retreat cocooned in nature
The Yulo Kopa retreat looks out over the Hastings Valley.
Dan, a Buddhist chaplain and former flight attendant, spent seven years searching NSW for somewhere to open an accommodation and events retreat. He was continually drawn back to the Hastings hinterland – a 25-minute drive from Wauchope – for its beauty and serenity.
After extensive renovations, Yulo Kopa offers four well-appointed and self-contained cottages (prices start from $280 per night), a large mindfulness studio, gift shop and guest lounge. In the works are a cafe and day spa. Dan is a man in a hurry, but he somehow manages to make being busy look zen.
Guests can try meditation, yoga, Buddhist counselling, gold panning and walks – or simply the chance to enjoy the splendid isolation. Dan takes me on a shinrin yoku (forest-bathing) adventure through the rainforest to a clearing where a big fig takes centre stage, surrounded by hammocks.
I’m just here for the day, but I vow to return when I have more time to really relax around the cosy fire pit and stargaze.
Yulo Kopa is helping breathe new life into the high country west of Port Macquarie, a region that has often been overlooked.
Small-town hinterland charms
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Discover rolling pastures in the
high country west of
Port Macquarie. (Credit: Remy Brand Creative)
Get lost in Bago Maze. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Forest bathing in Burrawan State Forest. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Wauchope is the gateway to the hinterland, but many visitors from Port Macquarie don’t venture much further. They might tick off ‘Old Bottlebutt’ in Burrawan State Forest, or get gloriously lost in Bago Maze and Wine, then head back to the beach. But keep driving west and there are farm shops, cafes, waterfalls and quirky hamlets waiting to be discovered.
Coffee and croissant at Baked Culture in Wauchope.
I’m chasing waterfalls, so after picking up treats from Wauchope’s famed Baked Culture I head up the mountain towards Ellenborough Falls, just over the border in the Manning Valley. I drive up the winding mountain road until it straightens out and the rainforest gives way to rolling green hills, where honesty boxes appear at farm gates. This is Comboyne, from the Gathang word for kangaroo in the language of the Birpai people. At 700-odd metres above sea level, the air is cooler up here and the volcanic soil makes good farmland for avocados, dairy, beef and macadamias.
Comboyne is big on whimsy. The Udder Cow Cafe advertises a ‘slow coffee’, and even the power poles are artsy, painted with scenesfrom the Comboyne landscape and nearby waterfalls. The town hasa full events calendar, including the Scarecrow Festival and HastingsFarm Gate Tour weekend. I browse the Comboyne Farm Store’seclectic mix of clothing, homewares, gifts and farm supplies and evenmeet Kevin the shop cat, a bona fide social media star.
Rawson and Ellenborough Falls
Mist, moss and a sheer curtain of water at Rawson Falls in the Port Macquarie hinterland near Wauchope. (Credit: Remy Brand Creative)
The spectacular Ellenborough Falls. (Credit: Destination NSW)
It’s a short drive to Rawson Falls and its rainforest reserve, but I’m saving my energy for Ellenborough Falls. This is the grand-daddy of them all at 200 metres; it’s the tallest single-drop waterfall in NSW, and among the tallest in the southern hemisphere. It’s exactly 641 thigh-wobbling steps to the base of the falls, but the beauty is that you don’t need to do a strenuous hike to get good views. I decide to skip the hike and instead take one of the shorter walks to the lookouts, where I get a spectacular view of the mist-shrouded falls.
The Byabarra Cafe & Bar
By now I’ve worked up an appetite, so I make a beeline for The Byabarra Cafe & Bar. With wraparound valley views and gourmet comfort food, it’s perfect for a long lunch. They even make their own bread, pasta and condiments (mandarin and star anise jam is a fave). I enjoy Tuscan garlic prawns with linguine and make sure to save room for something from their ‘Naughty Board’. Out on the deck with apple pie and ice cream, savouring the serenity, I reflect on everything I’ve seen in the Port Macquarie hinterland and realise that, actually, I’ve barely scratched the surface.
See the Murray region in an entirely different light by exploring its night-time experiences and attractions.
By day, the mighty Murray River is a majestic and ever-changing sight, with river red gums and wetlands stretching along 2500 kilometres. But by night, its cities, towns, villages and landscapes totally transform.
From Albury Wodonga to Mildura, and everywhere in between, you’ll be in for a multi-sensory and memorable treat encompassing mesmerising light shows, guided ghost tours and vibrant celebrations that capture the nocturnal magic of the river.
This is no ordinary nighttime adventure; the region becomes an entirely different world when the sun sets. Discover six must-do activities along the Murray that can only be enjoyed after dark.
1. Share in ghostly tales
Hold on to your nerve when learning local ghost stories. (Credit: Campaspe Shire Council)
If you’re up for something a little more spine-tingling, Port After Dark in Echuca is your best bet. Rumour has it that the Port of Echuca Wharf and the buildings around it have long been home to lingering ghosts and mysterious events – like the vengeful woman said to haunt an old tramway bridge and spirits searching for stolen money through the town centre.
You can hear all about them on this guided lantern tour, which takes place on Wednesday and Saturday nights after dark. The stories are atmospheric and intriguing – you may even spot a ghost or two yourself. If you’d like a more intimate experience, private tours are also available to groups of 15 or more.
2. Wander art installations
See Bruce Munro’s immersive art installation. (Credit: Serena Munro)
Right near the Perry Sandhills, sits an experience that feels almost otherworldly. Artist Bruce Munro (of Uluru’s Field of Lights fame) has created a Fibre Optic Symphonic Orchestra, a network of 80 Hills Hoists illuminated with fibre optic light combined with the sounds of an orchestra. The clotheslines glow and pulse in time to the specially composed score, immersing you in a dreamscape of light and sound.
For a different light experience, you’ll find stillness at Trail of Lights, also curated by Munro. Located just 30 minutes away on Lock Island in Mildura, thousands of lights stretch over the landscape, spotlighting both the river and a series of Munro’s sculptures. The trail is intended to be a peaceful and meditative setting for wandering and reflecting.
3. Learn through lasers
Travel 30 million years into the Murray’s past at Heartbeat of the Murray. (Credit: Ewen Bell)
Discover a fascinating history in this dual act of lights and projections on the banks of the Little Murray River. Legends of the Mallee is a multimedia show in Swan Hill combining lasers and lights, which tells the story of the region’s rich past. Learn about the Wamba Wamba and Wadi Wadi Peoples who first inhabited the area, as well as the figures and events that shaped the Mallee of today.
The river steals the spotlight in the Heartbeat of the Murray, a multimedia spectacle inside the Pioneer Settlement encompassing lights, lasers, sound and special effects against the natural backdrop. Through a sequence of large-scale animated projections, you’ll go back 30 million years to explore the Murray River’s formation before travelling to the present to learn how it supports modern communities.
4. Light up the lake
Watch the lights and lasers of Lake Mulwala. (Credit: Mulwala Water Ski Club)
Travelling with kids? Head to Yarrawonga Mulwala and nearby Lake Mulwala for the family-friendly Laser Light & Sound Show. Lights and lasers are projected over the lake and onto curtains of fog, creating a colourful and high-energy visual display. The show suits all ages and tastes, set to a mix of songs that everyone knows and loves.
You can take in the spectacle from either the grassy banks of the lake or book a table at the Mulwala Water Ski Club’s Malibu Deck Cafe, serving pub-style food and refreshing drinks, including excellent classic cocktails. If you’re watching from the foreshore, the show is entirely free, making it a great budget-friendly option.
5. Be captivated by local culture
Soak in the culture of the Bangerang People. (Credit: Laser Vision)
Set aside an evening to explore Bullanginya Dreaming in Cobram Barooga – you’ll want ample time to take in the stories and symbolism of this immersive laser light and sound trail. The 1.8-kilometre trail explores the storytelling and culture of the Bangerang People, who have long cared for the lands around Bullanginya Lagoon in Barooga. The trail features 12 activations – each telling a different story – and combines dramatic lights and lasers with water and fire.
Intertwined with the visual displays are Bangerang narratives, giving you meaningful insight into the area’s Indigenous heritage. It’s designed to be explored over 90 or so minutes, encouraging you to move slowly and thoughtfully.
6. Discover a winter glow
See the streets of Albury Wodonga come to life after dark. (Credit: Visit Albury Wodonga)
Albury Wodonga comes alive as the weather drops, with an annual celebration of the season on Saturday, 15 August. WinterGlow takes over the CBD and features a vibrant program of things to see, do, learn, eat and drink.
Take part in hands-on workshops that let you try different art forms and crafts. Feast on street food and winter warmers from local eateries. Browse for artisan wares at the night markets. Watch musical acts on the main stage. Or get involved in different activations, including a silent disco and giant maze. Artificial snow will be falling to add to the festive atmosphere.
Even wandering the streets and laneways and soaking up the late-night energy will leave you feeling enchanted.
