In the Snowy Mountains, when the powder melts, a summer alpine wonderland ripe with adventure is revealed.

I’m swimming at a bend in the Thredbo River. The water is cold, fresh and tea-coloured, as if it has been steeped deep in the mountains before finding its way here. After hiking through Thredbo Valley on a section of the Snowies Alpine Walk, I’ve waded in to let the water soothe my aching limbs. From the river bank, the trees emanate with the chirp of cicadas and the call of whipbirds.

This is the Snowy Mountains out of season, when the snow melts to reveal a carpet of wildflowers blooming in a triptych of yellow, white and pink. The scenery comes to life with the sound of wildlife and wallabies bounding along the roadside. It’s as if there’s an entirely new landscape hiding beneath the snow, one that’s overlooked by the many Aussies who head home to hang up their skis after the season ends.

Where are Australia’s Snowy Mountains?

The Snowy Mountains are about a five-and-a-half-hour drive from Sydney and around three hours from Canberra.

Why visit the Snowy Mountains in summer

There are many reasons to return to the Snowies in summer. In the warmer months, the region transforms into a hub for sports, such as hiking, fishing, horseback riding and mountain biking. Where families shush downhill in the winter snow, you now see them crunching around bends on two wheels. And without the snow, you can drive the snaking mountain roads with ease, stopping in the many historic towns and old pubs nestled in the landscape.

You’ll also discover an uncommon quietude during summer school holidays. While most families stuff the car with floaties, eskies and high-tail it to the coast, fewer people think to head to the high country. But here, in the cooler alpine landscape where the soft breeze fans snow gum leaves, summer is all fresh air and blue skies with as much action to rival the beach. Days fill with kayaking and swimming in Lake Jindabyne, splashing in the Yarrangobilly Caves thermal pool and deflecting repeated requests from the kids to ride the Thredbo Alpine Coaster.

What can I do in the Snowy Mountains during the summer?

Hiking the Snowies Alpine Walk

One of the region’s biggest summer draws is the Snowies Alpine Walk. Opened in late 2024, this 56-kilometre route connects existing trails into a four-day hike that takes walkers across Australia’s alpine roof, linking Guthega, Charlotte Pass and Perisher. The highlight is climbing to the summit of Australia’s highest peak, Mt Kosciuszko.

I opt to walk the trail in sections, with the help of local transfer company Snow Connect. Day hikes mean I can take just a day pack, crammed with goodies from Birchwood cafe in Jindabyne, leaving me free to appreciate the landscape. The scenery is ever-changing as I walk. I weave through a cool canopy of snow gums, wobble over suspension bridges threaded over alpine rivers and march across meadows speckled with wildflowers. And whenever the track reaches the bank of a river, I can’t help but stop to splash my face with the mountain-fresh water – or just jump right in.

My final hike ends at Bullocks Flat, the location of Perisher’s Skitube terminal, and I exit to find the sprawling car park nearly empty. But I don’t mind the feeling of having all this space to myself. And while many resorts shut during summer, the iconic Eagles Nest restaurant remains open. Sitting at the top of the Kosciuszko chairlift, it’s the perfect opportunity to stop for lunch and dine at the country’s highest restaurant while enjoying sweeping views.

Trout fishing in Jindabyne

After the walk, I stay in Jindabyne for a few days to explore the region. The Snowies are famous for trout-rich waters so I decide to try my luck, whipping my line into streams and waiting patiently on river banks. The fish elude my line and I come up empty-handed. No matter: the landscape is reward enough. Next time, I’ll be sure to recruit the help of a pro angler – there are plenty of local guides that offer lessons in the art of fly fishing.

There’s also the simple pleasure of driving around the region and seeing the countryside from the road. I follow the highways through the Monaro Plains, driving through sprawling pastures dotted with woolly sheep and grazing cattle.

The historic town of Dalgety

One excursion leads me to the town of Dalgety. Formerly known as Buckley’s Crossing, this quiet village was once considered a possible site for Australia’s capital city. In the 1800s, it was an important river crossing along the Travelling Stock Route, but today its past is well preserved in its quaint old buildings, such as the historic village pub, The Dalgety Hotel.

As I walk along the peaceful riverbank that runs across town, I wonder how different this place might look had the capital call gone another way. It’s already hard to imagine this as a bustling hub of regional life, but the photos preserved in the pub offer a glimpse of its once-busy streets. I take it all in as I sip a locally brewed beer, a dark, malty schooner of Alpine Red X by Jindabyne Brewing.

My time doesn’t permit a horse trek on this visit, but it’s yet another reason to return. The idea of exploring the high country on horseback has me dreaming of a drover’s life, and luckily there are day trips that offer a taste of the experience, following old tracks and crossing mountain streams on horseback. There are also multi-day treks that offer the chance to fully step into stockman mode. Operators such as Snowy Wilderness run multi-day horse treks, with overnight stays in a swag and the chance to learn traditional stockman skills of leatherwork and cracking a stockwhip. It’s like a living portal into a Banjo Paterson poem.

The area is also a playground for mountain bikers. There are fun, easy trails close to the town of Jindabyne – including leisurely rides suitable for kids – that follow the curving shores of Lake Jindabyne, as well as tracks for more experienced riders. And in the summer, the heat dusts the snow off Thredbo to reveal a network of mountain bike trails, where you can take a lift to enjoy the adrenaline rush of riding downhill. The 37-kilometre Thredbo Valley Track offers great riding, with a beginner-friendly section followed by some uphill bursts and challenging terrain that’s perfect for more advanced riders.

There’s so much variety here in summer, and I feel like I’ve packed a lot into my few short days in the region: fishing, hiking and driving through the countryside to discover historic gems, watching the landscape unspool from my window. But the abundance of activities reminds me that there’s still so much to come back for.

Where to stay

For a country retreat near Cooma, Kallarroo Farmstay offers rustic cabins and cottages surrounded by native forest. For family escapes, sink into the quietude of alpine bushland at Big Yard Farm, a premium three-bedroom accommodation, 25 minutes from Jindabyne.

In Crackenback, a luxurious stay at private Crafters Cabins includes an outdoor wood-fired hot tub, firepit, fully equipped kitchen and more, tucked away in five hectares of alpine bushland.

Eating there

Eagles Nest is Australia’s highest restaurant, at the top of the Kosciuszko Express Chairlift. It offers sweeping views of the surrounding alpine landscape and operates on a walk-in basis. Jindabyne’s Birchwood offers convenient and delicious packed lunches for hikers, as well as elevated breakfast and dinner catering options.