Snow days in Thredbo

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Since falling hard for Thredbo on a snow trip more than a decade ago, I’ve become a passionate advocate for Australia’s own winter wonderland.

Regrettably, I was a latecomer to snow holidays and their affiliated joys. While I’d always longed to frolic in water’s crystalline form, circumstance and a northern coastal upbringing kept me away until my mid-twenties.

By then, film-fuelled notions of knitted Fair Isle jumpers, mulled wine sipped by log fires and pine-hemmed gingerbread houses dusted in sugary snow were hard-set in my mind as benchmarks for wintry beauty.

First impressions

So, when in the early bloom of a new relationship, my then-boyfriend (spoiler: now husband) took me to Thredbo, expectations were high.

This must be true love and surely will unlock new levels of romance. There will be cute beanies, mountaintop embraces and I will, of course, be fabulous at snowboarding, impressing with my obvious agility.

I was unprepared for two things. First, a new nemesis in the form of chairlifts (more on that later). Second, the astonishing loveliness of the Australian snowfields, which was not at all the cliché I had in my mind. If you’ve been to Thredbo, you know that winding down into the valley through the Snowy Mountains from Jindabyne is a rush of anticipation that reveals a wildly undersold and, I personally think, under-celebrated landscape.

Thredbo landscape
The valley through the Snowy Mountains from Jindabyne is an under-celebrated landscape. (Image: Salty Wings)

Light bounces from the snow-cloaked gum trees, glinting and winking with the promise of smooth, white runs beyond. Streams trickle icily between soft alabaster banks, where sturdy, native grasses emerge like an echidna’s spikes. Beyond, chairlifts festoon the mountainside, their passengers dangling their heavy-booted legs as they chat excitedly about their next descent.

As the Snowies rise up behind forests of eucalypts, lit by the unmistakable vibrancy of an antipodean sun, the landscape is oddly foreign yet entirely familiar. We’re unaccustomed to seeing our sunburnt country soothed by a fluffy, white quilt, tucked into the corners of soaring mountain ranges, and so this scene has a wonderfully, almost surreal quality. It’s for that reason that I believe Thredbo is amply worthy of a visit.

Drone shot of Thredbo village and mountain
Seeing the scenery blanketed in snow has a wonderfully, almost surreal quality.

Naturally, there are other reasons, too. Not least the fact that this is a snow holiday that many east coasters can reasonably drive to – no passports or planes required. You also needn’t ski or snowboard to enjoy a winter interlude, as there’s so much amenity and activity built into the season’s calendar, from events and tours to gentle gondola rides and dinners at Eagles Nest, the highest restaurant in Australia.

Family standing on bridge looking over valley in Thredbo
Thredbo is amply worthy of a visit. (Image: Destination NSW)

Why Thredbo needs to be on your winter hit list

Since that first trip to Thredbo, when I fell in love with this pocket of NSW (and aforementioned future-husband), I’ve been surprised by how often people opt to travel overseas instead of coming here.

Granted, the season is short and competes with a European summer for the holiday time slot, but here falls snow – in your own backyard. It’s utterly worthy of a mini-break. Yes, it can cost a bit if you’re comparing apples to oranges and looking at lift passes overseas, where the seasons are much longer and more populated. But there are also bird specials and budget-friendly options. And things start to level out when you remember that you’re not paying for an overseas airfare.

Aerial view of skiers at Thredbo
Join snow-goers as they slice the slopes. (Image: Salty Wings)

Back to those ski lifts, which, while repeatedly defeating me also fast-tracked my new relationship. Not to greater levels of romance, mind you, but rather comfortability, as I never once dismounted with any shred of dignity. All pretence of sporting prowess was swiftly bulldozed and so aching was my body from the effort to remain upright on a snowboard that romance was sidelined in favour of beer at the end of the day. It was a good time.

Karel's sunrise at Thredbo
You could have a love-hate relationship with the chairlift.

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Memory making adventures

Fourteen years later, the relationship has endured, as have my fond memories of that first Thredbo trip. I didn’t want the resulting humans of that union to miss out on childhood snow times like I did, so we piled into the car and drove to the snow. Because, you know, you can do that in Australia.

Skier at Thredbo
Make fond memories at the snow.

As it turns out, my inability to exit a chairlift without skidding into a jumble of limbs has also endured. So, I enlisted the help of an instructor who gallantly persevered with my tuition as I maintained my spotless record of crashing out of the chair and into nearby snow-goers. It didn’t matter to me that my skill level hadn’t changed, what mattered was that Thredbo hadn’t changed. It was still the wonderland I remembered. A playground of otherworldly beauty where the Australian bush is marshmallowed with pillowy snow and the landscape captivates from the flats to white-dipped peaks.

Snow shoeing at Thredbo
Thredbo is a playground of otherworldly beauty.

Still, in an effort to bypass any genetic lack of coordination, I enrolled my five-year-old son into Burton Riglets, the fantastic snowboarding school at Thredboland, which is set in the snowy playpen of Friday Flat. To the delight of my snow-sport enthusiast husband, the kid seemed a natural. But what I enjoyed most was watching his little face illuminate with sheer joy as his small hand formed around his first-ever snowball – which he then pegged with alarming accuracy and a questionable level of glee at his two-year-old sister.

A skier and a snowboarder at Thredbo
Enrol in lessons if it’s your first time hitting the slopes.

Freeze that image there, because if you’re a parent, that’s another reason why you should snow in Oz. Would I take two kids, one of them a toddler, on an international flight lugging snowboard bags and all manner of paraphernalia required to placate the ludicrous demands of children? Nope. But I can throw it all in the car and park directly at the snowfields. Even if you’re unencumbered by dependants, Thredbo is easy, beautiful and utterly magical. There’s nothing like seeing our dusty-green Australian bush softened by shimmering snowflakes. It’s enough to make you fall in love.

Thredbo sign
There’s no need to take kids overseas to see snow.

Where to stay in Thredbo

THREDBO ALPINE HOTEL

Lean into the ski village vibes at Thredbo Alpine Hotel with its chalet-style wood-panelled walls, easy access to lifts and cosy fireside bar.

Daytime exterior of Thredbo Alpine Hotel
Stay at Thredbo Alpine Hotel.

THREDBO ALPINE APARTMENTS

Great for groups, these self-contained village abodes make an ideal base for breaks in snow pursuits. Access to the Kosciuszko Express Chairlift is via a pedestrian bridge and you can easily shuttle to Friday Flat.

JINDABYNE

It’s just a 30-minute drive from Jindabyne to Thredbo, making the town a great and affordable place to stay with plenty of accommodation options.

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What to do in Thredbo

THREDBOLAND

Thredboland on Friday Flat is where skiing and snowboarding lessons for the young begin. The Snowsports School also caters to adults with private one-on-one or group lessons from beginners to advanced.

ON-MOUNTAIN EXPERIENCES

Each season, Thredbo launches its series of special experiences, from tours to dinners – don’t miss the four-course dinner at Kareela Hutte.

Kareela Hutte at Thredbo
Enjoy a four-course dinner at Kareela Hutte. (Image: Threbo Resort)

SATURDAY FIREWORKS

Coinciding with the adult flare run every Saturday is the fireworks display, which illuminates the ski fields with kaleidoscopic colour.

Where to eat and drink in Thredbo

MERRITTS MOUNTAIN HOUSE

Take the Merritts gondola for a good time with delicious fare and live music on the deck.

THE DENMAN

Set the mood to romance at The Denman’s casual but elegant Terrace Restaurant in the village. Stop by the bar first to recount the day’s triumphs before settling in for a well-finessed meal.

The Denman exterior at Thredbo
Set the mood for romance at The Denman.

Good to know

Get a jump on your holiday and book the early bird specials, which are released ahead of the opening season and offer significant discounts. Be mindful that opening week can be a risky time to go if snowfall hasn’t been abundant, so be prepared to just enjoy the beauty of the Snowies and the village vibe.

Thredbo guides in snow
Book the early bird specials to save money.

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Lara Picone
Working for many of Australia’s top publications, Lara Picone has had the distinct pleasure of writing, editing and curating content about the finer things in life for more than 15 years. Graduating from Macquarie University with a Bachelor of Arts in Communication, her editorial foundation began at Qantas: The Australian Way magazine, before moving on to learn the fast-paced ropes of a weekly magazine at Sunday Magazine and picking up the art of brand curation at donna hay magazine. Pivoting a near-problematic travel lust into a career move by combining it with storytelling and a curious appetite, her next role was as Deputy Editor of SBS Feast magazine and later Online Editor of SBS Food online. She then stepped into her dream job as Editor of Australian Traveller before becoming Online Editor for both International Traveller and Australian Traveller. Now as a freelancer, Lara always has her passport at-the-ready to take flight on assignment for the Australian Traveller team, as well as for publications such as Qantas Magazine, Escape and The Weekend Australian. As ever, her appetite is the first thing she packs.
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8 reasons Moree should be on your next road trip itinerary

    Lucy Cousins Lucy Cousins
    Discover what makes this country town the perfect place to slow down, switch off and recharge.

    At first glance, the country town of Moree may look like just another charming highway town, with heritage buildings, a leafy town centre and classic pubs the locals love. However, this regional New South Wales town is Australia’s Artesian Spa Capital, a wellness hub with a rich Indigenous cultural history and a growing reputation as a destination for slow travel.

    Moree is ideally located at the crossroads of the Gwydir and Newell highways (and is also easily reached by train and air), making it a refreshing destination, or stop, on any road trip. And these eight experiences show why.

    1. Taste Moree on a Plate

    Westpac Helicopter Rescue Service team with their Seafood Paella at the 2019 Moree on a Plate Festival
    Taste the best of regional produce and culinary talent. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    Time your trip for Mother’s Day weekend in May, and you’ll find yourself in the middle of the popular annual food and wine festival, Moree on a Plate, celebrating regional produce and culinary talent from the region’s fertile plains.

    Browse the stalls and sample olives, pecans, citrus fruits, honey, boutique wines and handmade condiments. You can also enjoy live cooking demonstrations by celebrity chefs, a local barbecue competition, plein-air art, live music and a dedicated children’s activity area.

    2. Experience artesian waters

    woman at the Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre
    Chill out in Moree’s famous artesian waters.

    Moree’s famous artesian waters have attracted visitors for over 130 years. First discovered by accident in 1895, this mineral-rich, naturally heated water is drawn from deep within the Great Artesian Basin. Soak and slow down in the recently renovated pools at the Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre, where you can choose between the active pool with massaging water jets or the passive pool for a more relaxing experience.

    For a longer soak, stay at one of the many motels within walking distance of the aquatic centre. Or book a stay with its own artesian pools.

    Gwydir Thermal Pools Motel & Caravan Park has five on-site thermal pools and a broad range of accommodation, while the Phoenix Resort offers both indoor spas and outdoor thermal pools as well as recently upgraded self-contained apartments and motel rooms. Meanwhile, the Artesian Spa Motel is set on five acres of landscaped gardens and features swimming and thermal pools, including an indoor artesian spa and an on-site restaurant.

    3. Enjoy an arty experience

    Bank Art Museum Moree
    Step inside the gorgeous Bank Art Museum Moree. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    To connect with Moree’s artistic side, head to Bank Art Museum Moree (BAMM), an independent contemporary art gallery housed in a beautifully preserved, Federation-era bank dating back to 1910. Inside, a nationally significant collection celebrates the art and culture of the Gamilaroi/Kamilaroi people and other First Nations artists alongside regional Australian art, while changing exhibitions offer something new.

    Follow the Moree Art Mural Trail through the CBD, and you’ll pass large-scale murals and small galleries reflecting stories of the town’s people, history and culture. While you’re exploring this open-air gallery, look out for the eclectic mix of Art Deco and early 20th-century architecture, including the Moree Courthouse and the striking Capitol Theatre facade.

    4. Discover cotton country

    Aerial overlooking cotton farming in progress on the Newport Cotton Farm, Moree
    Learn more about Moree’s cotton industry. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    Surrounded by the black-soil plains of the Gwydir Valley, Moree is at the centre of one of Australia’s major cotton-growing areas. Visit between March and May, and you’ll see fields covered in the distinctive fluffy white cotton bolls being harvested by huge machinery.

    Trace the cotton from paddock to fabric on the Cotton Farm and Gin tour, running from April to September. You’ll visit a cotton farm and a working cotton gin up close, where you’ll see the cotton fibres separated from the seeds. Tours run weekly and include transfers.

    5. Explore the Moree Plains

    care driving around moree
    Head out of town to explore the plains.

    Outside of the city centre, Moree is surrounded by charming rural villages dotted around the plains. The quiet village of Boomi, around 90 kilometres north-west of Moree, offers historic early 20th-century architecture, its own artesian thermal waters at the Boomi Artesian Baths and vast outback skies.

    Further west, the pioneer border town of Mungindi straddles the Barwon River between New South Wales and Queensland. Follow the 2.5-kilometre sculpture trail to take in the outdoor public art, and you’ll cross the state border twice.

    6. Relax by the water

    bird at Gwydir Wetlands in moree
    Spot the locals at Gwydir Wetlands.

    Just a short drive away, the peaceful Tareelaroi Weir Recreation Area makes the most of the meandering Gwydir River. Set up camp along the riverside and enjoy picnicking, fishing and swimming.

    A little further afield, the Gwydir Wetlands are home to 75 recorded waterbird species, including brolgas, magpie geese, egrets, spoonbills, ibis and black-necked storks, also known as jabirus. Watchers can settle into the hide at Waterbird Lagoon, or follow a short walking trail through the wetlands, keeping an eye out for rare species.

    7. Immerse in local Indigenous culture

    Terry Hie Hie Aboriginal Area
    Learn about the history of the Gamilaroi People.

    Moree lies on the traditional lands of the Gamilaroi People, whose connection to the land stretches back thousands of years. Today, visitors can learn about this history at Terry Hie Hie Aboriginal Area, which includes the 3.5 kilometre Yana-y Warruwi Walking Track.

    Back in town, the Open Space Aboriginal Art Trail allows you to enjoy the Mehi River with a free, self-guided public art trail of work from local Indigenous artists and their personal connection to Country. Finish with a visit to the remarkable Dhiiyaan Aboriginal Centre, where more than 110,000 family genealogies are recorded. Browse artefacts, art and over 15,000 photographs. There are also changing exhibitions of historical photographs and local art.

    8. Local cafe culture

    Barista making a coffee order at 61 Balo Cafe, Moree
    Get amongst’s Moree’s vibrant cafe scene. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    From relaxed country cafes to stylish modern eateries, Moree’s CBD has a surprisingly vibrant foodie scene. There are plenty of spots to choose from for a freshly brewed coffee, long lunch or tasty dinner, featuring menus showcasing local produce and loads of country charm.

    If you’d rather dine in the great outdoors, grab a takeaway coffee or a picnic and head to leafy Jellicoe Park, a riverside oasis just a short walk from the centre of town. Pick a spot under the trees, enjoy the park’s art installations and keep watch for waterbirds along the river.

    Start planning your Moree retreat at visitmoreeplains.com.au.