Snow days in Thredbo

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Since falling hard for Thredbo on a snow trip more than a decade ago, I’ve become a passionate advocate for Australia’s own winter wonderland.

Regrettably, I was a latecomer to snow holidays and their affiliated joys. While I’d always longed to frolic in water’s crystalline form, circumstance and a northern coastal upbringing kept me away until my mid-twenties.

By then, film-fuelled notions of knitted Fair Isle jumpers, mulled wine sipped by log fires and pine-hemmed gingerbread houses dusted in sugary snow were hard-set in my mind as benchmarks for wintry beauty.

First impressions

So, when in the early bloom of a new relationship, my then-boyfriend (spoiler: now husband) took me to Thredbo, expectations were high.

This must be true love and surely will unlock new levels of romance. There will be cute beanies, mountaintop embraces and I will, of course, be fabulous at snowboarding, impressing with my obvious agility.

I was unprepared for two things. First, a new nemesis in the form of chairlifts (more on that later). Second, the astonishing loveliness of the Australian snowfields, which was not at all the cliché I had in my mind. If you’ve been to Thredbo, you know that winding down into the valley through the Snowy Mountains from Jindabyne is a rush of anticipation that reveals a wildly undersold and, I personally think, under-celebrated landscape.

Thredbo landscape
The valley through the Snowy Mountains from Jindabyne is an under-celebrated landscape. (Image: Salty Wings)

Light bounces from the snow-cloaked gum trees, glinting and winking with the promise of smooth, white runs beyond. Streams trickle icily between soft alabaster banks, where sturdy, native grasses emerge like an echidna’s spikes. Beyond, chairlifts festoon the mountainside, their passengers dangling their heavy-booted legs as they chat excitedly about their next descent.

As the Snowies rise up behind forests of eucalypts, lit by the unmistakable vibrancy of an antipodean sun, the landscape is oddly foreign yet entirely familiar. We’re unaccustomed to seeing our sunburnt country soothed by a fluffy, white quilt, tucked into the corners of soaring mountain ranges, and so this scene has a wonderfully, almost surreal quality. It’s for that reason that I believe Thredbo is amply worthy of a visit.

Drone shot of Thredbo village and mountain
Seeing the scenery blanketed in snow has a wonderfully, almost surreal quality.

Naturally, there are other reasons, too. Not least the fact that this is a snow holiday that many east coasters can reasonably drive to – no passports or planes required. You also needn’t ski or snowboard to enjoy a winter interlude, as there’s so much amenity and activity built into the season’s calendar, from events and tours to gentle gondola rides and dinners at Eagles Nest, the highest restaurant in Australia.

Family standing on bridge looking over valley in Thredbo
Thredbo is amply worthy of a visit. (Image: Destination NSW)

Why Thredbo needs to be on your winter hit list

Since that first trip to Thredbo, when I fell in love with this pocket of NSW (and aforementioned future-husband), I’ve been surprised by how often people opt to travel overseas instead of coming here.

Granted, the season is short and competes with a European summer for the holiday time slot, but here falls snow – in your own backyard. It’s utterly worthy of a mini-break. Yes, it can cost a bit if you’re comparing apples to oranges and looking at lift passes overseas, where the seasons are much longer and more populated. But there are also bird specials and budget-friendly options. And things start to level out when you remember that you’re not paying for an overseas airfare.

Aerial view of skiers at Thredbo
Join snow-goers as they slice the slopes. (Image: Salty Wings)

Back to those ski lifts, which, while repeatedly defeating me also fast-tracked my new relationship. Not to greater levels of romance, mind you, but rather comfortability, as I never once dismounted with any shred of dignity. All pretence of sporting prowess was swiftly bulldozed and so aching was my body from the effort to remain upright on a snowboard that romance was sidelined in favour of beer at the end of the day. It was a good time.

Karel's sunrise at Thredbo
You could have a love-hate relationship with the chairlift.

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Memory making adventures

Fourteen years later, the relationship has endured, as have my fond memories of that first Thredbo trip. I didn’t want the resulting humans of that union to miss out on childhood snow times like I did, so we piled into the car and drove to the snow. Because, you know, you can do that in Australia.

Skier at Thredbo
Make fond memories at the snow.

As it turns out, my inability to exit a chairlift without skidding into a jumble of limbs has also endured. So, I enlisted the help of an instructor who gallantly persevered with my tuition as I maintained my spotless record of crashing out of the chair and into nearby snow-goers. It didn’t matter to me that my skill level hadn’t changed, what mattered was that Thredbo hadn’t changed. It was still the wonderland I remembered. A playground of otherworldly beauty where the Australian bush is marshmallowed with pillowy snow and the landscape captivates from the flats to white-dipped peaks.

Snow shoeing at Thredbo
Thredbo is a playground of otherworldly beauty.

Still, in an effort to bypass any genetic lack of coordination, I enrolled my five-year-old son into Burton Riglets, the fantastic snowboarding school at Thredboland, which is set in the snowy playpen of Friday Flat. To the delight of my snow-sport enthusiast husband, the kid seemed a natural. But what I enjoyed most was watching his little face illuminate with sheer joy as his small hand formed around his first-ever snowball – which he then pegged with alarming accuracy and a questionable level of glee at his two-year-old sister.

A skier and a snowboarder at Thredbo
Enrol in lessons if it’s your first time hitting the slopes.

Freeze that image there, because if you’re a parent, that’s another reason why you should snow in Oz. Would I take two kids, one of them a toddler, on an international flight lugging snowboard bags and all manner of paraphernalia required to placate the ludicrous demands of children? Nope. But I can throw it all in the car and park directly at the snowfields. Even if you’re unencumbered by dependants, Thredbo is easy, beautiful and utterly magical. There’s nothing like seeing our dusty-green Australian bush softened by shimmering snowflakes. It’s enough to make you fall in love.

Thredbo sign
There’s no need to take kids overseas to see snow.

Where to stay in Thredbo

THREDBO ALPINE HOTEL

Lean into the ski village vibes at Thredbo Alpine Hotel with its chalet-style wood-panelled walls, easy access to lifts and cosy fireside bar.

Daytime exterior of Thredbo Alpine Hotel
Stay at Thredbo Alpine Hotel.

THREDBO ALPINE APARTMENTS

Great for groups, these self-contained village abodes make an ideal base for breaks in snow pursuits. Access to the Kosciuszko Express Chairlift is via a pedestrian bridge and you can easily shuttle to Friday Flat.

JINDABYNE

It’s just a 30-minute drive from Jindabyne to Thredbo, making the town a great and affordable place to stay with plenty of accommodation options.

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What to do in Thredbo

THREDBOLAND

Thredboland on Friday Flat is where skiing and snowboarding lessons for the young begin. The Snowsports School also caters to adults with private one-on-one or group lessons from beginners to advanced.

ON-MOUNTAIN EXPERIENCES

Each season, Thredbo launches its series of special experiences, from tours to dinners – don’t miss the four-course dinner at Kareela Hutte.

Kareela Hutte at Thredbo
Enjoy a four-course dinner at Kareela Hutte. (Image: Threbo Resort)

SATURDAY FIREWORKS

Coinciding with the adult flare run every Saturday is the fireworks display, which illuminates the ski fields with kaleidoscopic colour.

Where to eat and drink in Thredbo

MERRITTS MOUNTAIN HOUSE

Take the Merritts gondola for a good time with delicious fare and live music on the deck.

THE DENMAN

Set the mood to romance at The Denman’s casual but elegant Terrace Restaurant in the village. Stop by the bar first to recount the day’s triumphs before settling in for a well-finessed meal.

The Denman exterior at Thredbo
Set the mood for romance at The Denman.

Good to know

Get a jump on your holiday and book the early bird specials, which are released ahead of the opening season and offer significant discounts. Be mindful that opening week can be a risky time to go if snowfall hasn’t been abundant, so be prepared to just enjoy the beauty of the Snowies and the village vibe.

Thredbo guides in snow
Book the early bird specials to save money.

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Lara Picone
Working for many of Australia’s top publications, Lara Picone has had the distinct pleasure of writing, editing and curating content about the finer things in life for more than 15 years. Graduating from Macquarie University with a Bachelor of Arts in Communication, her editorial foundation began at Qantas: The Australian Way magazine, before moving on to learn the fast-paced ropes of a weekly magazine at Sunday Magazine and picking up the art of brand curation at donna hay magazine. Pivoting a near-problematic travel lust into a career move by combining it with storytelling and a curious appetite, her next role was as Deputy Editor of SBS Feast magazine and later Online Editor of SBS Food online. She then stepped into her dream job as Editor of Australian Traveller before becoming Online Editor for both International Traveller and Australian Traveller. Now as a freelancer, Lara always has her passport at-the-ready to take flight on assignment for the Australian Traveller team, as well as for publications such as Qantas Magazine, Escape and The Weekend Australian. As ever, her appetite is the first thing she packs.
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The secret Sydney suite life: a luxury under-the-radar stay right on the harbour

    Kate Bettes Kate Bettes
    This winter, these secret Sydney harbour suites are the staycation we’ve been looking for.

    Whether it’s the crisscrossing ferries or the white sails of the Opera House rising out of blue depths, Australia’s biggest city lives for its harbour. But while locals might glance at that watery expanse on their daily commute across the Bridge, it can still be hard to truly connect with Sydney’s maritime soul. The secret: seeing the harbour eye-to-eye, right at water level. And what better place to submerge yourself in that energy than sleeping there? That’s where Pier One Sydney Harbour comes in (and with new all-inclusive bed and breakfast benefits, there’s even more to love).

    All-inclusive VIP benefits

    Who Is Elijah Amenities at Pier One Sydney Harbour
    Book in for the all-inclusive VIP treatment.

    The hard truth is that it will be very difficult to tear yourself away from your ultra-luxurious harbour home-away-from-home to explore the city. If you want to make leaving even harder, opt for Pier One’s all-inclusive VIP treatment.

    The Bed and Breakfast with Suite Benefits package turns up the volume on what is already the ultimate staycation, with complimentary valet parking, daily breakfast for two and turndown service. The biggest perk? Enjoy a bottle of French champagne every day during your whole stay

    Pier One Sydney Harbour

    Pier One Sydney Harbour
    Step into a piece of history with all the modern comforts. (Credit: Dave Wheeler)

    The five-star Pier One Sydney Harbour is quite literally old Sydney through and through. Built on what was once a working cargo wharf and the passenger terminal for those heading to the North Shore before the bridge was constructed, the heritage building sits right between the tangle of cobblestones, pubs and alleyways of The Rocks and the historic docking zone of Walsh Bay – at the centre of the city’s old sea trade.

    If knowing the hotel’s history isn’t enough to get your sea-longing going, the interior design certainly will. As soon as you step up to the concierge desk in the lobby of the restored building – which underwent a $15 million redevelopment in 2019 – you’re immersed in Sydney’s seafaring tale. Weathered wood panelling and white marble floors surround you, while loop lighting installations hover above the bar island just beyond, ringed with stools ready for intimate, martini-tinted conversations. Steel rivets and timber beams speak to its past, and glass-walled views anchor you firmly in the present-day life on the harbour.

    Pier One Suites

    Pier One Sydney Harbour admiral suite
    Enjoy incredible views from your suite.

    Across the 189 rooms and suites built on and over the water, the maritime theme continues. Sculptural aged brass fittings, exposed girders, colour schemes that evoke shifting currents, and mirrors that reflect ripples that – depending on your booking – sit just metres from your pillow.

    United on theme yet unique in set-up, each room or suite is different. On the ground floor, dog-friendly rooms with direct access to the pier are all prepped for pampered pups, while others have views and even balconies overlooking Walsh Bay, the Bridge and the Harbour.

    But the 19 suites step things up even more. Gaze out through floor-to-ceiling windows, or get even closer. Your private balcony is made for sipping a Nespresso coffee on as the sun comes up – or soaking in the bathtub of the Admiral Suite on the deck, a drink from the locally stocked mini bar in hand. This mini bar was recently completely transformed, so you have more Aussie favourites to choose from, including alcohol and snacks.

    Dining at Pier One

    Pier Bar Pier One Sydney Harbour
    Settle in for an afternoon of good drinks and views.

    Once you’re checked in, start your afternoon with a spritz at PIER BAR – or arrive by boat via the private pontoon if the occasion calls for it – and settle into one of the cabanas. Weekdays bring Happy Hour (or ‘sunset hour’ at Pier One); weekends bring the DJs. After an even sweeter experience? The Everyday Creamery and Matcha Kiosk is slinging mango and vanilla soft serve – classic and those spiked with Midori and gin alike.

    PIER Dining is an ode to contemporary Australian flavours across the terrace, pier and dining room. On its seafood-leaning menu are Sydney rock oysters from Merimbula, potato scallops with salmon roe and crème fraîche, chicken with melting sundried tomato butter, vodka rigatoni with Shark Bay prawns. And the ‘Pierlova’ – that’s pavlova with chocolate, dulce de leche and banana is worth saving room for. Make sure to ask for the wine list – it’s 100 per cent Australian drops.

    Around town

    luna park, sydney opera house and sydney harbour bridge
    Explore the neighbourhood during your stay. (Credit: Destination NSW)

    If you’re strong enough to polish off just one last pastry from the breakfast buffet and walk out the door, we applaud you. Luna Park across the harbour beckons with its wide grin, while a glance upward might spur you to climb the Bridge’s famous iron arches. The Opera House – just across Circular Quay from the Museum of Contemporary Art – sings out for a concert.

    You’ll want to book ahead for those hot-ticket performances at Sydney Theatre Company and Sydney Dance Company, just a few minutes’ walk south of the hotel. Ten minutes further brings you to the waterfront bars, restaurants and clubs of Barangaroo, or the karaoke, gardens and dim sum of Chinatown further afield.

    Keep the mellow of your weekend getaway going with a stop at Barangaroo Reserve, watching the yachts go by – all before returning for that Sydney sundowner at Pier One.

    Ready to make that Pier One stay a reality? Book the ultimate Sydney staycation at pieronesydneyharbour.com.au