Exploring the South Coast's darlings, Milton and Mollymook

With a thriving food scene and a strong sense of community, there’s no denying the charm of New South Wales coastal darlings Milton and Mollymook.

Milly and Molly have always been joined at the hip. As the older of the two, Milly has assumed the responsibility that comes with growing up in country New South Wales. Molly, on the other hand, has matured at a slower pace, in the shadow of her big sister. But Molly has finally come of age – and Milly is reaping the benefits of the change in dynamics.

The morning sunshine is soft and warm on the outskirts of Milly. On a cottage verandah, hens spread their wings and settle down for a nap. A border collie nods off at the foot of a staircase leading to a stylish loft apartment. Bees buzz between strawberry flowers and dairy cows chew grass in a paddock over the back fence. It’s a peaceful introduction to the Shoalhaven towns of Milton and Mollymook on New South Wales’ South Coast.

There’s no denying, Milly and Molly go hand in hand; a trip to one isn’t complete without a visit to the other. Yet, the siblings are yin and yang. Shaped in the late 1800s by a thriving timber industry, Milton was the commercial centre of the region (before Ulladulla, to the south, overtook it). Mollymook, however, has always been a sleepy seaside hamlet attracting surfers and families.

Today, as the Princes Highway approaches Milton, a mere five minutes’ drive from the coast, traffic slows to a crawl. Pedestrians amble from boutique to gallery to cafe. Life is idyllic, but don’t be fooled – there’s vitality among the rolling farmland, and it’s largely thanks to a flourishing hospitality scene.

The ‘Rick Stein effect’

‘Rick Stein put Mollymook on the map’ is a phrase I hear more than once during my weekend stay. The English celebrity chef is influencing the South Coast’s culinary landscape, seven years after opening his self-titled restaurant at luxury hotel Bannisters by the Sea. At least three of the Shoalhaven’s top restaurants and cafes have former Bannisters chefs in the kitchen. They include Matt Upson, co-owner and head chef at Tallwood, a hip tapas bar in Mollymook; Adam Kann, the new head chef at Native, a trendy cafe in Ulladulla (try the turmeric latte); and Alex Delly, co-owner and head chef at the one-hatted St Isidore (order the cooked-to-perfection Scotch fillet).

The ‘Rick Stein effect’ has tourists scrambling to meet Molly, thrusting Milly into a renaissance that’s taking its cues from the kind of crowd rushing to Byron Bay’s sophisti-rustic ‘The Farm’. Newcomers are moving in, drawn to a healthy, relaxed lifestyle.

One of these is Jenny Paul from The Old Schoolhouse, a few minutes from Milton’s hubbub. Having moved from Sydney, Jenny started the boutique, self-contained accommodation in 2014. From its original disrepair, Jenny has breathed life back into the one-hectare property and, in the process, been welcomed by Milly and Molly with open arms. A passionate horticulturist, she says Milton is a sharing community with a strong organic and seasonal food scene. Produce and free-range eggs from her thriving garden are frequently exchanged for a morning coffee at Milk Haus, a cafe down the road in Woodstock.

Details: Milton and Mollywook

Getting there

– Milton and Mollymook are in the Shoalhaven region of New South Wales.

Milton is the main town, about 200 kilometres east of Canberra.

Staying there

– The Old Schoolhouse Set on a beautiful property just out of town, you’ll feel just like a local when you stay in the self-contained loft or cottages.

Perfect for couples; be sure to try the raw honey and free-range eggs.423 Croobyar Road, Milton.

Eating there

– Flour Water Salt : From the folks at The Farm at Byron, this is a must on the itinerary.

You’ll want to return time and again to sample all of the organic, fine fare. 87 Princes Highway, Milton.

– Milk Haus : For healthy food that’s preservative- and toxin-free, head to Milk Haus, in a charming old cheese factory.

The space is airy and casual, the food fresh and delicious. 170 Woodstock Road, Woodstock.

Playing there

– Mollymook Beach Surf School : Go it alone or book a group lesson, and learn how to surf in the gentle beginner waves around the Shoalhaven.

Boards and wetsuits are provided.

Discover more about NSW South Coast:

– Wollongong’s Coal Coast – boutique beach bliss

– Review: Bannisters Pavilion, Mollymook

– Collette Dinnigan’s Milton weekend hit-list

Aussies might think they know what Port Stephens is all about – but it’s time to take another look.

You might’ve driven through this NSW coast town. Maybe even stopped for fish and chips or a quick dip. But spend a long weekend in the new Port Stephens , and you’ll seriously regret not doing it sooner. We’re talking treks across beaches, reef dives and up-close time with rescued koalas.

All in all? It only takes a day before you see Port Stephens in a whole new light, and not much longer until it’s locked in as your favourite family destination.

1. Stockton Sand Dunes

Port Stephens incredible Stockton Sand Dunes are the largest moving sand mass in the Southern Hemisphere. They shift like an endless magic trick across the Worimi Conservation Lands , a 4200-hectare coastal co-managed by the Traditional Owners.

Tear over them in a 4WD. Rev through valleys soft as melting ice cream on a quad. Carve down 30-metre slopes on a sandboard. However you choose to cross them, you’re guaranteed a seriously wild ride.

Four rugged 4WDs kick up trails of golden dust as they charge across the sweeping desert landscape. — Chase thrills across shifting sands. (Image: Destination NSW)

2. Scale Tomaree Head Summit Walk

A short climb through bushland opens up to the coastal drama of Tomaree Head . Spot Zenith, Wreck and Box Beaches. See the Fingal Island lighthouse and offshore rookeries where Australia’s rarest seabird, the Gould’s petrel, nests.

History buffs can’t miss the WWII gun emplacements. And if you’re hiking between May and November, bring binoculars. Travelling whales might just be breaching below.

Friends enjoying a scenic walk along the Tomaree Head Summit Walk in Tomaree National Park, Port Stephens. — Climb Tomaree Head for jaw-dropping coastal views. (Image: Destination NSW)

3. Watch out for whales

You’ve seen the spouts of migrating humpbacks and southern right whales from shore. Set sail from Nelson Bay to see them up close. Cruise straight into the action, with tail-slaps, barrel rolls and all.

And they’ve got competition from the local show-offs. Port Stephens bottlenose dolphins leap and play. Some tours even spot pudgy fur seals, spending lazy days soaking up the sun on Cabbage Tree Island.

A whale’s tail on the sea’s surface. — Watch for ocean tails. (Image: Destination NSW)

4. Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary

Pop into the Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary to learn about the rescued koalas who climb, nap, snack and heal in this natural patch of bushland. Wander the immersive Sanctuary Story Walk to discover more about their habits, then head to the SKYwalk – a treetop platform constructed for spotting these eucalyptus-loving locals. Peek into the hospital’s viewing window, where sick or injured koalas may be resting in their recovery enclosures.

Not enough time around these adorable marsupials? Stay overnight in silk-lined glamping tents.

Koala sleeping in a tree at Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary, One Mile — See koalas in their natural habitat. (Image: Destination NSW)

5. Diving Port Stephens

Port Stephens has some of NSW’s best dive spots. At Fly Point, float through sponge gardens and coral castles thick with nudibranchs (AKA sea slugs). Halifax Park has blue gropers and crimson-banded wrasse, while Shoal Bay’s seagrass meadows hide pipefish, cuttlefish and octopus.

Accessible only by boat, Broughton Island is home to a vast array of marine (and bird) life. Snorkel with blue devilfish and stingrays at sites like The Looking Glass and North Rock. More experienced divers can head out with one of the many PADI-certified operators.

At nearby Cabbage Tree Island, expect to see shaggy-faced wobbegongs cruising along.

A couple suited up and ready to dive into adventure. — Suit up and dive into Port Stephens’ vibrant marine life. (Image: Destination NSW)

6. Irukandji Shark and Ray Encounters

Not quite ready to dive in? Irukandji Shark and Ray Encounters is the perfect way to spot local marine life without getting too deep. But there’s no obnoxious glass tank tapping here. Instead, this interactive aquarium allows guests to wade into natural-style lagoons that mimic the real thing.

Gently pat Port Jackson and bamboo sharks, hand-feed rays, and feel their sandpapery skin with your fingertips. It is all under expert guidance. If you want to go deeper, pop on a wetsuit and swim alongside tawny nurse sharks, white-tipped reef sharks and zebra sharks in the lagoon.

Family enjoying an animal feeding experience at Irukandji Shark and Ray Encounters, Anna Bay. — Meet the ocean’s friendliest faces at Irukandji. (Image: Destination NSW)

7. Fish the estuaries

Fishing fanatics will fall for Port Stephens hook, line and sinker. Here, one of the largest estuary systems in the whole state sees tidal rivers and mangrove ecosystems. Waterfronts are thick with oysters, and residential fish that might include anything from bream, whiting and flathead, to blue swimmer crabs, kingfish and longtail tuna.

If you prefer to choose your own adventure and fish offshore, you can hire a boat from one of the marinas and set your own course.

three men fishing on a boat in port stephens — Join a tour or chart your own fishing trip. (Image: Destination NSW)

8. Taste new Port Stephens flavours

With plenty of activity to fill your days, refuelling on delectable cuisine becomes equally important. And Port Stephens answers the call.

Pop into Holbert’s Oyster Farm for fresh-farmed Port Stephens rock oysters and Pacific oysters, Australian king and tiger prawns, as well as a variety of tasty sauces to try them with.

Take a group to Atmos for an authentic Greek experience over large shared dishes and Greek-inspired cocktails. Or feast on sea-to-plate, modern Australian dishes at the pet-friendly Restaurant 2317.

A plate of fresh oysters. — Slurp your way through the region’s best oysters. (Image: Destination NSW)

Start planning your Port Stephens getaway at portstephens.org.au .

Meet the South Coast’s darlings: Milly and Molly