With a thriving food scene and a strong sense of community, there’s no denying the charm of New South Wales coastal darlings Milton and Mollymook.
Milly and Molly have always been joined at the hip. As the older of the two, Milly has assumed the responsibility that comes with growing up in country New South Wales. Molly, on the other hand, has matured at a slower pace, in the shadow of her big sister. But Molly has finally come of age – and Milly is reaping the benefits of the change in dynamics.
The morning sunshine is soft and warm on the outskirts of Milly. On a cottage verandah, hens spread their wings and settle down for a nap. A border collie nods off at the foot of a staircase leading to a stylish loft apartment. Bees buzz between strawberry flowers and dairy cows chew grass in a paddock over the back fence. It’s a peaceful introduction to the Shoalhaven towns of Milton and Mollymook on New South Wales’ South Coast.
There’s no denying, Milly and Molly go hand in hand; a trip to one isn’t complete without a visit to the other. Yet, the siblings are yin and yang. Shaped in the late 1800s by a thriving timber industry, Milton was the commercial centre of the region (before Ulladulla, to the south, overtook it). Mollymook, however, has always been a sleepy seaside hamlet attracting surfers and families.
Today, as the Princes Highway approaches Milton, a mere five minutes’ drive from the coast, traffic slows to a crawl. Pedestrians amble from boutique to gallery to cafe. Life is idyllic, but don’t be fooled – there’s vitality among the rolling farmland, and it’s largely thanks to a flourishing hospitality scene.
The ‘Rick Stein effect’
‘Rick Stein put Mollymook on the map’ is a phrase I hear more than once during my weekend stay. The English celebrity chef is influencing the South Coast’s culinary landscape, seven years after opening his self-titled restaurant at luxury hotel Bannisters by the Sea. At least three of the Shoalhaven’s top restaurants and cafes have former Bannisters chefs in the kitchen. They include Matt Upson, co-owner and head chef at Tallwood, a hip tapas bar in Mollymook; Adam Kann, the new head chef at Native, a trendy cafe in Ulladulla (try the turmeric latte); and Alex Delly, co-owner and head chef at the one-hatted St Isidore (order the cooked-to-perfection Scotch fillet).
The ‘Rick Stein effect’ has tourists scrambling to meet Molly, thrusting Milly into a renaissance that’s taking its cues from the kind of crowd rushing to Byron Bay’s sophisti-rustic ‘The Farm’. Newcomers are moving in, drawn to a healthy, relaxed lifestyle.
One of these is Jenny Paul from The Old Schoolhouse, a few minutes from Milton’s hubbub. Having moved from Sydney, Jenny started the boutique, self-contained accommodation in 2014. From its original disrepair, Jenny has breathed life back into the one-hectare property and, in the process, been welcomed by Milly and Molly with open arms. A passionate horticulturist, she says Milton is a sharing community with a strong organic and seasonal food scene. Produce and free-range eggs from her thriving garden are frequently exchanged for a morning coffee at Milk Haus, a cafe down the road in Woodstock.
Details: Milton and Mollywook
Getting there
– Milton and Mollymook are in the Shoalhaven region of New South Wales.
Milton is the main town, about 200 kilometres east of Canberra.
Staying there
– The Old Schoolhouse Set on a beautiful property just out of town, you’ll feel just like a local when you stay in the self-contained loft or cottages.
Perfect for couples; be sure to try the raw honey and free-range eggs.423 Croobyar Road, Milton.
Eating there
– Flour Water Salt : From the folks at The Farm at Byron, this is a must on the itinerary.
You’ll want to return time and again to sample all of the organic, fine fare. 87 Princes Highway, Milton.
– Milk Haus : For healthy food that’s preservative- and toxin-free, head to Milk Haus, in a charming old cheese factory.
The space is airy and casual, the food fresh and delicious. 170 Woodstock Road, Woodstock.
Playing there
– Mollymook Beach Surf School : Go it alone or book a group lesson, and learn how to surf in the gentle beginner waves around the Shoalhaven.
Jennifer Ennion is a freelance travel and ski journalist who loves encouraging people to spend more time outdoors. From snorkelling with belugas in sub-Arctic Canada to hiking the Himalayas, Jennifer is constantly searching for stories that inspire readers to push their boundaries.
NSW’s beach towns take on a new kind of magic when the cooler months hit.
Autumn and winter cast a whole new light on the New South Wales coastline. The sun hangs lower, the shadows stretch longer and the air is crisp and fresh. The frenetic summer crowds are gone, and the rhythm slows to the pace of a leisurely winter bush walk through still, damp quiet. From wineries pouring winter reds to the annual whale migration up the ‘humpback highway’, here’s why winter on the New South Wales coast is better.
Winter on the NSW South Coast
Winter down south means misty dawns, sipping a flat white on the beach. The thrill of a whale spotting from the headlands and evenings spent slowly savouring Shoalhaven’s wines by the fire.
Start in Kiama, where waves crash into the famous Blowholes. This natural spectacle is achieved when underground pressure and swell unite, sending sea spray soaring above the basalt cliffs. This means, due to larger waves, you’re even more likely to see an explosive display in winter.
See Kiama’s blowholes in full force. (Image: Destination NSW)
Inland, the Minnamurra Rainforest Walk in Budderoo National Park is all subtropical forest and trilling lyrebird song. Make sure to walk silently along the elevated boardwalks, past winter-swelled creeks and the tangled roots of fig trees. You might just hear one of the musically talented birds mimicking your footsteps.
Feeling adventurous? Book a session at Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures for a wobbly walk through the canopy on Australia’s highest zipline.
Walk among the tallest trees. (Image: Destination NSW)
Next, it’s time to take the speed down a notch with a drive over to the historic village of Berry. It’s been a beloved stop for generations of Sydneysiders heading south, as has the obligatory stop at its famous doughnut van for crisped, cinnamon goodness. If you’re ready for something a little more chunky, stroll right past the boutiques (okay, go on, just one quick peek) to Milkwood Bakery . Their flaky pastries and all-day breakfasts are best enjoyed under cream-coloured fringed umbrellas.
Back in Kiama, you’ll also find modern Middle Eastern share plates at Miss Arda , and next-level burgers on The Hungry Monkey ‘s extensive menu: an ode to everything pattie-shaped.
End the day at The Sebel Kiama on the harbour. The apartment-style rooms come with full cooking facilities — a welcome addition for families looking to test out the local produce they picked up along the way. Including, but not limited to, vintages from nearby Crooked River Wines .
Sleep by the harbour.
Winter on the Mid-North Coast
A trip up north is a gentle one at this time of year. You’ll still feel that sunshine warming your shoulders, but the lower temperatures make space for rainforest walks, vineyard lunches and long coastal hikes. All without that pesky humidity.
First stop? It has to be the town of Port Macquarie. Start by marking out a stretch of the nine-kilometre coastal walk you want to tackle (or do the whole thing), which winds from Town Beach to the lighthouse along rugged headlands and quiet beaches. Hot tip: binoculars. Don’t forget them if you want to partake in some close-up sightings of dolphin pods or whales migrating up the ‘humpback highway’.
Wander the Port Macquarie Coastal Walk. (Image: Destination NSW)
Swap sea for canopy at the Sea Acres Rainforest Boardwalk , one of the last remaining pockets of coastal rainforest in the state. The accessible elevated trail passes under climbing ferns and tangled strangler figs, and is alive with scarlet robins, goannas and diamond pythons – if you’re lucky, you might see one slipping through the leaf litter.
Afterwards, lunch is sorted at Cassegrain Wines , where crisp whites and elegant reds are grown using a blend of French winemaking tradition and Australian innovation. After a tasting, saddle up for a horse ride through the estate.
Meet Koala Hospital inhabitants at their temporary home. (Image: Destination NSW)
The beloved Koala Hospital is rebuilding, so meet its furry patients in their temporary bushland abode at Guulabaa – Place of Koala . Here, you can see rehabilitation up close and learn how one of Australia’s most iconic animals is being carefully rewilded and protected.
Back in town, Whalebone Wharf serves up fine dining with serious views to go with your oysters. Prefer something breezier? Bills Fishhouse + Bar does everything from blue swimmer crab toast to zucchini noodles drizzled in basil and wattleseed pesto. Down by the waterfront, Little Shack slings ceviche, mushroom burgers and fish tacos with casual aplomb.
At the end of it all, check in to Mercure Centro Port Macquarie , right in the heart of town. From here, everything’s walkable. Just park the car, pop your keys in your pocket, and stroll down to the beach.
Check in to Mercure Centro Port Macquarie.
Winter on the Central Coast
On the Central Coast, expect to explore oyster farms that sit on estuaries, beaches that stretch empty for miles, and the kind of surprise sightings of whale sprays that can stop a hiker in their tracks.
The best way to settle into this slower rhythm is with the Bouddi Coastal Walk , an 8.5km trail that dips through rainforest and eroding cliffs. It’s made for unhurried walkers and long-lens photographers.
Up the coast in Terrigal, it’s prime time to spot humpbacks on the move. Join a cruise or find your own perch — Crackneck Lookout and Norah Head Lighthouse are both local favourites.
Travelling with kids? It would be sacrilege not to visit the Australian Reptile Park . Here, Elvis the saltwater crocodile reigns supreme, and the venomous snake talk somehow manages to be simultaneously terrifying and fascinating.
If that isn’t enough to wear them out, zip and climb your way through Treetops Adventure Central Coast , a ropes course in the canopy of Ourimbah State Forest. Afterwards, steady your nerves with a garden tasting at Firescreek Botanical Winery , where fruit- and flower-infused wines are served under the trees.
Switch earth for sea and hop on a boat tour with Broken Bay Pearl Farm . Once you’re out on the water, you’ll learn how pearls are cultivated and have a hands-on lesson in grading and shucking.
Get a hands-on pearl lesson. (Image: Destination NSW)
As the day winds down, grab a seat at Yellowtail in Terrigal , which takes seasonal native produce and presents it with Asian flair. Prefer something simple? Award-winning Mount White restaurant Saddles is a quintessential Australian dining destination. Find an impressive breakfast and lunch menu, dedicated to country-style cooking and seasonal produce.
Stay the night at Pullman Magenta Shores , between the ocean and the lake. There are plenty of ways to relax, with a massage at the day spa, a poolside beanbag and a round or two at the golf course.
Eat well at Pullman Magenta Shores’ restaurant. (Image: Destination NSW)
Winter in Wollongong
Wollongong does contrast pretty well. One moment you’re walking beneath an enormous Buddha, the next you’re ordering soju a few blocks from the surf. It’s a town where skydivers land on beaches, trails lead to paddocks and winter days stretch long and clear beneath the Illawarra cliffs.
If you’re coming from the north, start by crossing over the Sea Cliff Bridge. Curving dramatically out like a jutting ‘C’ out above the water means you won’t be able to resist pulling over (safely, in designated lookouts) to gaze down at the waves crashing on the cliffs below.
Just inland is the serenity of the Nan Tien Temple , the largest Buddhist temple in the Southern Hemisphere. You can trace the prayer path, explore the temple gardens and sip delectable Kam Quat Tea in the quiet light at the Dew Drop Inn Tea House.
Learn about Buddhist practices. (Image: Destination NSW)
Next, dust off that cowboy hat. It’s time for the Darkes Forest Riding Ranch . Take a guided canter via trail rides among peppermint gums and paddocks. If you’re happier to look at animals than ride them, Symbio Wildlife Park has red pandas dozing in trees, kangaroos that hop up to you and lessons on conservation.
The brave among you shouldn’t miss Skydive Australia – Wollongong . A free fall over the coast via tandem jumps before tumbling down to the sand is a breath-stopping thrill. Prefer to keep your feet on the ground? Check out the program at Wollongong Art Gallery , which delivers contemporary and Aboriginal exhibitions in the centre of town.
Hang out with the locals at Symbio Wildlife Park.(Image: Destination NSW)
As evening settles in, nab a table at Baby Face Kitchen . It has an ever-changing set menu, with dishes like hand-picked mud crab with white asparagus and salty brown butter, to sheep’s milk and honey ice cream. For something more casual, Dagwood Bar + Kitchen brings the fun with Korean fried chicken, sake cocktails and weekly all-you-can-eat bao buns.
Check in to Novotel Wollongong Northbeach , right by the sand. With a beachfront pool and ocean views, it’s an ideal base for whatever pace you choose.
